GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Discussion Thread

This is my first MSI card was kinda skeptical so far so good usually go EVGA. The MSI card has a thing on the back of the box saying caps are good for 12 years at full load and 40 years for office use.
Fired up the Witcher 3 went from 48 FPS on Ultra with my 980ti @ 1440P to 100+ with dips in the 90s with the 1080ti
you can tell the difference in game totally it's butterly smooth while riding the horse though a town or crowd.

I hope this card works out only thing I don't care for is the Green Geforce GTX logo and any possible Eyestrain then again from switching brands
I had my monitor and Geforce settings at full brightness for about a half hour
installing the new drivers and re-downloading them using 3-D Guru Driver sweeper.

I chose Tom Clancy Ghost Recon Wildlands
 
How do I turn down the LED light on the Card I read something about LED Visulizer but it's included with the program but can't find it on the current version.
 
There is a Display Port to DVI adapter included in the box at first I just used direct HDMI to HDMI my eyes were straining like I feared they would...
So I just plugged in my old Blue Rigger DVI cable to the included Display Port Adapter it's way better on the eyes on my smaller monitor.
 
If it's a digital signal, there should be no difference. The only thing I can think of is the limited color range that may be enabled by default on HDMI, but that shouldn't strain your eyes.
 
Replaced the thermal paste with Arctic Silver 5 no change in temps stayed at 84c running Unreal Heaven.
 
Seems like there will be cards with prices lower than FE editions.

In Vietnam, Gigabyte Aorus 1080Ti is priced equal to FE. Gigabyte 1080Ti Gaming OC is priced almost $50 lower than FE and Aorus SKUs.
 
Just got my MSI Armor 1080 ti. Here's a couple pics next to my old 290X Tri-X

11lsrbp.jpg


34i4xlh.jpg


1ha71d.jpg
 
I have been using blower coolers for a while now, but damn they are loud. I have a Silverstone FT01 and a Haswell-E with water cooler, it is like a Corsair H90 but the rad exhausts air out the back of the case. On top of the case is a big 180mm fan that draws cool air down over the CPU and out the back through the rad. The CPU cooler is loud as fuck during gaming already.

If I go with a ACX cooler, that air is going to rise up through the case and get exhausted through my radiator. Not good. It is not a great case for GPU ventilation, although there is one big 180mm intake on the front. Are these ACX coolers basically for cases where tons of cool air is being drawn in? Anyone familair with the FT01 care to comment on which cooler I should get?
 
Very tempted to sell my two MSI Gaming X 1080s and replace with Gaming X 1080Ti. SLI has been quite shit for the past year. Enjoyed 680s and 980s but lately only one of my GPUs gets to do much anymore. Might hold out to see how mGPU goes.
 
I like my 1080 Ti Founders Edition... fast and pretty. But folks were right about the cooler. The thing runs hot, limits OC potential. Y'all with the 3rd party boards will have better luck, I think.
 
Nope. I sure didn't. Didn't even know that was a thing. I'll investigate later.
You can tweak this in MSI Afterburner. I have it set to 40% at 40C and then 100% at 80C. You can tweak the curve to be more silent or have a faster/slower ramp, but the important thing is making sure the fan gets to 100% so it will never go above 80C (I think the limit is 84C where it will start throttling).
 
You can tweak this in MSI Afterburner. I have it set to 40% at 40C and then 100% at 80C. You can tweak the curve to be more silent or have a faster/slower ramp, but the important thing is making sure the fan gets to 100% so it will never go above 80C (I think the limit is 84C where it will start throttling).

That MSI sh*t works with the baseline Founders Edition card?
 
Anyone else notice they jacked the price from $119 to $159 today? Ouch! I tweeted to evga Jacob about it, that's quite a price gouge.

That's why I went the Arctic Accellero HybridIII route
 
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sorry i haven't received it. I'm now starting to read about VRAM heat dissipation and now sure if they're covered or not...
 
Anyone else notice they jacked the price from $119 to $159 today? Ouch! I tweeted to evga Jacob about it, that's quite a price gouge.
There are some other options. I prefer a mid/front plate card and a full removal of the original hsf and shroud with the nzxt version personally even though a mid/front plate is not required. Might be a short wait on misc parts going this route, depending on where you get them.

The short version is:
evga 120mm hybrid kit..$120 (now $159 ??)
nzxt 120mm H55 kit.....$122
nzxt 140mm H90 kit.....$154


This is what I did to my 780ti sc cards with their mid/front plate (I did the full thing with 140mm and all new fans).. compared to the $120, 120mm evga kit with it's stock fan which wasn't available at the time.
I already own all of this stuff so it's not going to cost me all over again going forward. It might be a bit cheaper if you could get the splitters and extenders cheaper shopping around, if you don't require sleeved/braided, or if you happen to have any spares.

The short version is:
evga 120mm hybrid kit..$120
nzxt 120mm H55 kit.....$122
nzxt 140mm H90 kit.....$154

-------------------------------------------------
Cosair H55 120mm AiO cooler $55 or Corsair H90 140mm Aio Cooler $97 ($87 after mir)

NZXT Kraken G10 AiO Cooler Bracket $35

Copper Shims 2 for $2 or 20 for $8

4Pin PWM to 3Pin Standard Fan Adapter Cable $2 each

100 pack Nylon M2.5 Insulation Washer 2.5mm X 5mm X 1mm Thickness $5
50 pack #6 Nylon Finishing Washers - Black $10

100 pack Nylon 6/6 Pan Head Machine Screw, Black, #1 Phillips Drive, M2.5-0.45 Thread Size, 25 mm Length, Fully Threaded, USA Made ~ $8
...OR...
50 Pcs 12.9 Steel Alloy Hex Pan Head Knurled Cap Screw Bolt M2.5x30 ~ $7


IC diamond / MX thermal compound ~ $8

= $ 122 for single 120mm kit w/o thermal compound
= $ 154 for single 140mm kit w/o thermal compound

------------------------------------------

Optional - Swap out all fans to hydro bearing and push/pull config -

Sleeved 1-to-2 PWM Fan Splitter Cable $9
Sleeved pwm power extenders 2pk $7 (might not need depending on case configuration)
Custom Acrylic Fan Grills for externalized fans $7 each (only if you are sandwiching a push/pull fan externally)
Hydro bearing 120mm or 140mm Fans to replace stock corsair fans in push/pull ~ $15 each (~ $30 per radiator push/pull)
ARCTIC F9 PWM Rev. 2 Fluid Dynamic Bearing Case Fan, 92mm PWM Speed Control (Replaces stock nzxt VRM cooling fan) $8 each

Total
+ $61 each cooler push/pull config ($47 each without fan extenders ($7) and ext grill($7))
+ $37 each cooler single fan swaps ($23 each without fan extenders and ext. grill)

---------------------------------------------------

Cost to do optional stock fan(s) swap if using EVGA's hybrid kit instead of the nzxt one

I don't think you can replace the stock VRM cooling fan on the 1080ti/titan housing/shroud.
Minus that acrtic cooling fan for vrm's,
The swap to full hydro push/pull fans on the evga hybrid kit would still be another

$53 push/pull config ($39 without fan extenders ($7) and ext grill($7)).
or
$29 single fan swap ($15 for single hydro radiator fan swap without pwr ext or grill)

Arctic also has a hybrid kit as mentioned. Not sure msi seahawk AiO part is sold separately, haven't looked.
 
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That's why I went the Arctic Accellero HybridIII route

That thing is ugly as hell. No shroud?

Maybe I'll just stick with the FE cooler on warp mode for a while. I was definitely buying the evga kit for $119 but they can keep it for $159
 
I'm not a fan of the acrtic accellero one but I don't think the nzxt's are ugly at all... especially sidelong in a case. I do prefer the look and rigidity with a mid/front plate gpu model though, and the new sc and ftw also come with a backplate as well this time around. I think the whole plastic cracker jack box shroud on the cards by default is ugly.

red version of bracket
http://i55.servimg.com/u/f55/18/61/63/72/2014-016.jpg

black
60bFfpH.png




Personally I don't even see my case innards with the huge 230mm fan on the side door of my haf-x case anyway. The only thing I can see is the corsair h100i v2 cpu cooler. If I had my way, high bandwidth displayport would be strong at 25 - 50' rather than 6' - 15' and my pc case wouldn't even be at my desk. The days of tron light bar case innards and clear cases died a long time ago for me personally.
 
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I'm not a fan of the acrtic accellero one but I don't think the nzxt's are ugly at all... especially sidelong in a case. I do prefer the look and rigidity with a mid/front plate gpu model though, and the new sc and ftw also come with a backplate as well this time around. I think the whole plastic cracker jack box shroud on the cards by default is ugly.

red version of bracket
http://i55.servimg.com/u/f55/18/61/63/72/2014-016.jpg

black
60bFfpH.png




Personally I don't even see my case innards with the huge 230mm fan on the side door of my haf-x case anyway. The only thing I can see is the corsair h100i v2 cpu cooler. If I had my way, high bandwidth displayport would be strong at 25 - 50' rather than 6' - 15' and my pc case wouldn't even be at my desk. The days of tron light bar case innards and clear cases died a long time ago for me personally.

Never said NZXT was ugly but that artic one sure is. I have a big side window so thats an issue.
 
Took me a good 3-4 days for my eyes to adjust to the card.....if I knew I would be getting temps at 84 c on full load I might have not got an FE.
Hell you might have to wait a good 1-2 months for anything else to be on sale.
 
Took me a good 3-4 days for my eyes to adjust to the card.....if I knew I would be getting temps at 84 c on full load I might have not got an FE.
Hell you might have to wait a good 1-2 months for anything else to be on sale.

Ugh. The GTX 1080Ti FE is designed to run at 84C, it doesn't matter if your card is running at 84C or 50C. It puts out the same amount of heat either way, one just transfers it somewhere else quicker/better.
 
it doesn't matter if your card is running at 84C or 50C.
That's the throttle temp though so if you are hitting it you could potentially be throttling in order to avoid going even hotter. You should aim to stay below the throttle temperatures especially overclocking. You can monitor all of that of course.

Even if you are avoiding throttle just below it, your fans could be maxed and loud.

So it certainly can matter.
 
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That's the throttle temp though so if you are hitting it you could potentially be throttling in order to avoid going even hotter. You should aim to stay below the throttle temperatures especially overclocking. You can monitor all of that of course.

Even if you are avoiding throttle just below it, your fans could be maxed and loud.

So it certainly can matter.

"throttling", more like less overclocking. Unless the card is going under the advertised boost clocks, it is not throttling.
 
semantics. If the card downclocks at all due to reaching thermal limitation ceiling I consider it throttling.
 
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