Ryzen Owners Thread

Seeing others Ryzen setups has inspired me to take a few pics of my 1700x setup. Some nice looking Ryzen rigs up in here!
ryzen0.jpg
ryzen1.jpg
ryzen2.jpg
ryzen3.jpg
 
I finally have mine up and running, 1700 with MSI Tomahawk B350. The major issue I ran into was that I was using an old Windows 10 ISO. Windows would freeze within 10 minutes of boot and I had no idea why. Finally joined the Insider's program and got the latest version, working like a charm.
 
Newegg has a few new mobos up...though all but one (MSI Krait) looks like a place holder.
 
luke51087 said:
so on my asrock killer x370 I just noticed my system was only seeing one stick of memory, found out my brand new gskill RGB trident z one of the sticks already went bad.
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DooKey said:
That sucks dude. Were you running it at auto voltage/DOCP? Supposedly that overvoltages it too much.
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DooKey said:
Gotcha. I have mine running at 1.37 and it seems to be ok so far.
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I don't know what the kits folks are getting from Corsair use for their ICs, or specifically which ones your TridentZs use (if the timings are equal across tCL-tRCD-tRP, probably Samsung), but this is the second review I've seen where they've pumped insane amounts of voltage through them without failure. I tried to find the other review (from a more well known site), it was linked somewhere in my "Buying Ryzen? Share your build" thread, but they are one of those that this guy mentioned, who managed even more.
In that review, he fed his TridentZs (with Sammy B-Dies) with 1.75v and others have used 1.9v on them (mind you, on Intel systems)! That was enough convincing for me to get those kind of modules for my Ryzen lol Glad I did, too, since they are what Ryzen like lol

However, here's straight from the horse's mouth that there B-dies should handle at least 1.5V (Vss = Ground, so all of these are "relative to Ground")
SamBDie.png


Seems rather unlikely they'd have fried from that voltage. Personally, I'd think it's way more likely that the ASRock board killed it (potential volt spike, or ripple from poor VRM design/components) than 1.35-1.4V being the cause, particularly given G.Skill's vetting process for ICs. Can always investigate the components used on the DIMM's VRM Circuit to determine their quality level. However, something else to ask: How old is your PSU, and what make/model is it?
 
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I am really confused no matter what i try with this mem i cant seem to see more than 8gb. No matter which slots i use A1 + B1 or A2 + b2 it will not see more than single channel and only 8gb. Even if i do use single channel and do like A1+ b2 or something like that it still wont see 2 sticks. I think my mobo is fucked. No matter what slot or which stick i use i only see one
 
luke51087 said:
I have a evga PS 1000, its probably less than 2-3 years. I mean the one stick went bad the other is still working for me.

This was the memory I bought https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232485

Was working well for a week or 2 at the 2933 and loosen timings. 16-18-18-36 at 1.35 on my board.

and this powersupply that is only 1.5 years old https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438035
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luke51087 said:
I am really confused no matter what i try with this mem i cant seem to see more than 8gb. No matter which slots i use A1 + B1 or A2 + b2 it will not see more than single channel and only 8gb. Even if i do use single channel and do like A1+ b2 or something like that it still wont see 2 sticks. I think my mobo is fucked. No matter what slot or which stick i use i only see one
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Well that's indeed the good stuff with the Samsung B-Die. I have the non-RGB and timings of 15-15-15, but the MSI X370 Titanium. Mine does just fine at 3200 15-15-15 with the original BIOS (I've not upgraded it since no point yet).

But you're saying that both sticks work fine individually and are recognized? Do they, when solo, pass MemTest, or even IntelBurnTest in Windows? Have you tried using even an older BIOS version? Based on the timeframe, it almost sounds like you started having problems after flashing to 1.63?

PSU is indeed probably A-OK.

At any rate, I'd definitely be testing them out one stick at a time using MemTest. Also, while I think it's unlikely, I'd give reseating the CPU a shot, as well as even going so far as running a lint-free cloth (glasses lens cleaner cloth for example) along the DIMM contacts to make sure they're clean. But, if they work solo, that one again seems to rule out anything like that, an in my opinion points to the motherboard even more.
 
The board originally came with 1.3 which is no longer on their page 1.6 was what i was running up until tonight when i tried more testing. I did flash it to 1.6 a few days after i set it up, so i was running fine for a week at least with 2933 and the higher timings. The weird part is i am not entirely sure when it stopped detecting the second stick. I am going to be testing some Dell pulls tommorow so i will report back but the one thing is strange that the RGB lights even without the software are no longer in sync. But yes each stick does work normally in windows i have not tried mem test ill have to test that next
 
So i brought the 2x8 trident z in to test out at work in a dell optiplex 7040, and sure enough one of the sticks is bad. So they are being RMAed hopefully it wasnt my board that killed it.
 
Riptide_NVN said:
Nope. I did just now disable USB selective suspend and disabled hybrid sleep in the advanced settings. I am using high performance. Keep in mind nothing in the operating system changed. Only the BIOS and it's settings changed. Points to the problem being introduced from that source.

I have been reading a lot of negativity about the 1.32 beta BIOS. If I do end up trying a beta before giving up I may try 1.31 instead. Worst case I'll be trying to get back to 1.00 release BIOS because that one produced no stability problems for me.

Only other thing that changed recently was the use of Corsair Link software. I may remove it from memory and test that way before I give up and flash another BIOS.
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corsair link can be an issue. I have it now but previous install caused a reboot loop and couldn't be uninstalled even in safe mode. no problem now but I just have it loaded for hwinfo temps and never open it.
 
Formula.350 said:
I don't know what the kits folks are getting from Corsair use for their ICs, or specifically which ones your TridentZs use (if the timings are equal across tCL-tRCD-tRP, probably Samsung), but this is the second review I've seen where they've pumped insane amounts of voltage through them without failure. I tried to find the other review (from a more well known site), it was linked somewhere in my "Buying Ryzen? Share your build" thread, but they are one of those that this guy mentioned, who managed even more.
In that review, he fed his TridentZs (with Sammy B-Dies) with 1.75v and others have used 1.9v on them (mind you, on Intel systems)! That was enough convincing for me to get those kind of modules for my Ryzen lol Glad I did, too, since they are what Ryzen like lol

However, here's straight from the horse's mouth that there B-dies should handle at least 1.5V (Vss = Ground, so all of these are "relative to Ground")
View attachment 20317

Seems rather unlikely they'd have fried from that voltage. Personally, I'd think it's way more likely that the ASRock board killed it (potential volt spike, or ripple from poor VRM design/components) than 1.35-1.4V being the cause, particularly given G.Skill's vetting process for ICs. Can always investigate the components used on the DIMM's VRM Circuit to determine their quality level. However, something else to ask: How old is your PSU, and what make/model is it?
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I looked this up and Intel states they won't certify over 1.5V so the assumption is that is the safe max. JDEC stated for certification DDR3 had to be able to handle up to 1.9V. I could not easily find JDEC standards for DDR4, only the comments from Intel for XMP.
 
This system has been stable now with no bugcheck after it sat all night and all morning idle. Looking more and more like the Trident Z PC3200 CL14 modules on this motherboard when pushed over 2400mhz were the cause of those bugcheck reboots.
 
luke51087 said:
So i brought the 2x8 trident z in to test out at work in a dell optiplex 7040, and sure enough one of the sticks is bad. So they are being RMAed hopefully it wasnt my board that killed it.
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Color me surprised (no RGB-module pun intended) to see that the stick is bad! What a shame :( I was going to ask if you were going to borrow a stick from the Optiplex to keep your Ryzen running but... if it is the Killer that's the killer (pun intended this time lol) I doubt that'd be the best idea then :\ Hopefully G.Skill will cross-ship you some new modules!

JustReason said:
I looked this up and Intel states they won't certify over 1.5V so the assumption is that is the safe max. JDEC stated for certification DDR3 had to be able to handle up to 1.9V. I could not easily find JDEC standards for DDR4, only the comments from Intel for XMP.
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Yea, I had also scoured the JEDEC site heh The only thing they state is that the modules must support 1.2V±0.06... which doesn't help us any seeing as JEDEC only officially supports up to DDR4-2400 for starters, and then there's the fact that all the kits (that I've seen) at DDR4-3000 and higher are set to 1.35V or even 1.4V for the DDR4-4000 + kits. In the end that's why I opted to see what Samsung listed for their ICs as having. Given that people have pumped 1.9V through these B-dies without instantly killing them (or more surprisingly, the Intel CPUs), [OPINION ALERT] I'd even dare to say that it's a fair bet Samsung's "absolute max" of 1.5V for the B-die is the highest safe voltage for 24/7 usage. [/OPINION ALERT] Even then, I'd still play it cautious and not exceed 1.45V for prolonged periods.

After-thought: Beings that DDR4 is, by my understanding, very very similar to DDR3 in all regards except for voltage, I can't help but wonder if unofficially DDR4 has the same 1.9V ceiling that DDR3 was specced with?
 
Formula.350 said:
Color me surprised (no RGB-module pun intended) to see that the stick is bad! What a shame :( I was going to ask if you were going to borrow a stick from the Optiplex to keep your Ryzen running but... if it is the Killer that's the killer (pun intended this time lol) I doubt that'd be the best idea then :\ Hopefully G.Skill will cross-ship you some new modules!
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I will actually try the 2x4gb sticks from the opti7040 to at least run until then. I think it has to do with the RGB and not really being certified for x370 there is a huge topic here http://www.overclock.net/t/1625238/help-ryzen-memory-problems That pretty much has people with similar issues as me across all the big boards. I did attempt the XMP profile and maybe that did kill it, i mean one stick was fine but the other clearly messsed up. Thinking i should of just sent them in to newegg as a refund and just bought the 3200 kit of the flare x. Luckly it was all within 30 days and i have newegg premier to send crap back to them.
 
Ugh, bought an AM4 bracket for my Corsair H60 cooler from long ago (1st gen). Come to find out they made a 2nd gen H60 cooler and this bracket doesn't fit. Whatever, I'm fine with the stock cooler I guess.

Companies: Call your shit something else if it's incompatible with the old stuff.
 
luke51087 said:
I will actually try the 2x4gb sticks from the opti7040 to at least run until then. I think it has to do with the RGB and not really being certified for x370 there is a huge topic here http://www.overclock.net/t/1625238/help-ryzen-memory-problems That pretty much has people with similar issues as me across all the big boards. I did attempt the XMP profile and maybe that did kill it, i mean one stick was fine but the other clearly messsed up. Thinking i should of just sent them in to newegg as a refund and just bought the 3200 kit of the flare x. Luckly it was all within 30 days and i have newegg premier to send crap back to them.
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So good news is the rando ram from the dell works fine in dual channel so it doesnt look like my board is messed up. Will have to do more testing with newegg sends me back some
 
luke51087 said:
I will actually try the 2x4gb sticks from the opti7040 to at least run until then. I think it has to do with the RGB and not really being certified for x370 there is a huge topic here http://www.overclock.net/t/1625238/help-ryzen-memory-problems That pretty much has people with similar issues as me across all the big boards. I did attempt the XMP profile and maybe that did kill it, i mean one stick was fine but the other clearly messsed up. Thinking i should of just sent them in to newegg as a refund and just bought the 3200 kit of the flare x. Luckly it was all within 30 days and i have newegg premier to send crap back to them.
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luke51087 said:
So good news is the rando ram from the dell works fine in dual channel so it doesnt look like my board is messed up. Will have to do more testing with newegg sends me back some
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I wouldn't have thought the LED and its interface (which I assume is the main issue) would have caused problems... Weird heh
Glad it isn't your board that's messed up! Had this been any other release, I think everyone would've been a lot less worried about these sorts of issues!

Also for what it's worth, I bought my TridentZ from NewEgg on Feb 20th. Mine is specifically the F4-3200C15D-16GTZKY (Black with Yellow plastic, which I recommend removing as they look way better). At least in my MSI Titanium they work just fine with the A-XMP option that loads the XMP Profile and sets it to 3200 (technically it loads JEDEC #7 which is 3200@16-15-15-35, but 15-15-15 works fine if manually set). I wanted different coloring but all the silver heatsink models in my price range at that time were the ones with non-Samsung timings (like 16-18-18 etc), and mine were on sale at the time for like $120 so I said screw it. All the other models on that link all have the -good- timings like mine, so I think would work just as well. If this Win10 update to v1607 fixes my damn problems with BSoD, I'll be able to finally start playing around with overclocks and tighter timings. :D (It's just finishing install right now)

There are ALSO these ones at Jet.com, which do have the silver heatsink, are 3200, but are 16-16-16-36. The upside is they're $138-$141 and have a $15 off :)

Personally I find it taking advantage of the market by them pricing the FlareX so high, over even the same speed and timed TridentZ (like your RGBs) which have a much nicer look to them, not that cheap stamped-steel heatsink (could've at east revived the old Flare heatsink).


Dark Shade said:
Ugh, bought an AM4 bracket for my Corsair H60 cooler from long ago (1st gen). Come to find out they made a 2nd gen H60 cooler and this bracket doesn't fit. Whatever, I'm fine with the stock cooler I guess.

Companies: Call your shit something else if it's incompatible with the old stuff.
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Is the bracket they sent you a square one, or a circular gear-shaped one?
If it's like the latter, I'm in need of that style... If you'd be interested in selling it... :shame:
I've been waiting, and waiting, and waiting for Asetek to get a shipment out to Thermaltake, but its still marked as "Coming Soon" *sigh*
 
yeah just hope i can get my memory to run better timings since its rated at 3200 14-14-14-36 once the bios updates are out
 
Formula.350 said:
Is the bracket they sent you a square one, or a circular gear-shaped one?
If it's like the latter, I'm in need of that style... If you'd be interested in selling it... :shame:
I've been waiting, and waiting, and waiting for Asetek to get a shipment out to Thermaltake, but its still marked as "Coming Soon" *sigh*
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It's the square one, that's compatible with the H60 2nd gen (top screws?) and not the 1st gen (side screws)
If it'd help you out I'd definitely do it though
 
Dark Shade said:
It's the square one, that's compatible with the H60 2nd gen (top screws?) and not the 1st gen (side screws)
If it'd help you out I'd definitely do it though
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I guess I have 2nd gen, my screws are on the top, I didn't even know they had 2 gens smh.
 
Dark Shade said:
It's the square one, that's compatible with the H60 2nd gen (top screws?) and not the 1st gen (side screws)
If it'd help you out I'd definitely do it though
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Welp, it won't help me any if it's square lol But if CAD4466HK is upgrading to Ryzen....? :D

And yea, that's one thing that's annoyed me with Corsair's AIOs, they have all these models under the same name with different versions. How many H100's have there been? lol There's something like H100, H100i, H100 v1, H100i v2... Bleh.


In other news... I've finally gotten my Windows stable it seems, thanks to installing (updating to) v1607 :D Unfortunately I wasn't able to easily find a way to update Windows 10 through KBs, and downloading the 1GB Cumulative Update wasn't installing for reasons unknown on my RTM 1507 (if you run Winver.exe it'll only say Version 10.0 OS Build 10289 or something, where as newer updates it says Version 1607 OS Build 14393). Anyways, I ended up having to download the Media Creation Tool, and then I followed this guide on how to use the ISO to update windows.

HOWEVER, if you're having the CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT BSoD (sometimes manifests in just a hard-lock of windows), you'll usually not have a lot of time, so here is what I suggest (and did myself).
-Use the Media Creation Tool on another computer to download the ISO
-Pull the HDD out of you Ryzen machine and plug it into the other system to copy the ISO onto it and put the Ryzen drive back in to boot back into Windows. OR (and I think this is easier) take that machine's HDD out and put it into the Ryzen machine, that way you don't have to copy anything.
-Mount the ISO.
-Run the Setup.exe and as quickly as you can, run through all the things it asks you for as outlined in the "followed this guide" link above on how to Update Windows.

Note: I actually used my first method, and extracted the ISO, as to not deal with having to mount it, in case my older Windows 10 ver wasn't capable of doing that. You can extract an ISO easily with WinZIP, WinRAR or 7zip. Just be sure to extract it into a folder and NOT directly into C:, because then it'll boot from that and turn your HDD into an install disc which is bad! If you do that you'll have to burn the installer to a disc or USB drive and start over. (unless you're savvy enough with the command prompt, then you can boot into the installer as it would, select the "Repair my computer" option at the install window, select Advanced Options and Command Prompt, then navigate to c: and delete the install files that way... heh)

So just in case anyone else is having this problem, here are some Google Search keywords... lol
Ryzen clock_watchdog_timeout windows 10 fix
 
Formula.350 said:
Welp, it won't help me any if it's square lol But if CAD4466HK is upgrading to Ryzen....? :D

And yea, that's one thing that's annoyed me with Corsair's AIOs, they have all these models under the same name with different versions. How many H100's have there been? lol There's something like H100, H100i, H100 v1, H100i v2... Bleh.


In other news... I've finally gotten my Windows stable it seems, thanks to installing (updating to) v1607 :D Unfortunately I wasn't able to easily find a way to update Windows 10 through KBs, and downloading the 1GB Cumulative Update wasn't installing for reasons unknown on my RTM 1507 (if you run Winver.exe it'll only say Version 10.0 OS Build 10289 or something, where as newer updates it says Version 1607 OS Build 14393). Anyways, I ended up having to download the Media Creation Tool, and then I followed this guide on how to use the ISO to update windows.

HOWEVER, if you're having the CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT BSoD (sometimes manifests in just a hard-lock of windows), you'll usually not have a lot of time, so here is what I suggest (and did myself).
-Use the Media Creation Tool on another computer to download the ISO
-Pull the HDD out of you Ryzen machine and plug it into the other system to copy the ISO onto it and put the Ryzen drive back in to boot back into Windows. OR (and I think this is easier) take that machine's HDD out and put it into the Ryzen machine, that way you don't have to copy anything.
-Mount the ISO.
-Run the Setup.exe and as quickly as you can, run through all the things it asks you for as outlined in the "followed this guide" link above on how to Update Windows.

Note: I actually used my first method, and extracted the ISO, as to not deal with having to mount it, in case my older Windows 10 ver wasn't capable of doing that. You can extract an ISO easily with WinZIP, WinRAR or 7zip. Just be sure to extract it into a folder and NOT directly into C:, because then it'll boot from that and turn your HDD into an install disc which is bad! If you do that you'll have to burn the installer to a disc or USB drive and start over. (unless you're savvy enough with the command prompt, then you can boot into the installer as it would, select the "Repair my computer" option at the install window, select Advanced Options and Command Prompt, then navigate to c: and delete the install files that way... heh)

So just in case anyone else is having this problem, here are some Google Search keywords... lol
Ryzen clock_watchdog_timeout windows 10 fix
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My fix to the CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT was that I was running an old Windows 10 ISO, I just downloaded the most recent one and no problems since then. Even opted in the Insider's program to get the very latest build.
 
Dark Shade said:
My fix to the CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT was that I was running an old Windows 10 ISO, I just downloaded the most recent one and no problems since then. Even opted in the Insider's program to get the very latest build.
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Yep I had seen a few people with Intel rigs post about having the same issue and updating stuff fixed their issue (some it was drivers, some it was windows updates). Glad that's all it is taking for fix our issues though! :)


TheLAWNoob said:
Will Corsair send me the AM4 bracket sooner than I 3D print it?

I have some pretty decent solidwork skills.
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My money is on the Printer!! lol
 
After a bit more than half an hour of work, I draw up an AM4 bracket for Corsair AIOs.

I haven't printed or tested it yet, but the dimensions should be on point.

For those of you are capable, I attached the solidworks drawing. Just delete the txt extension and open it in solidworks 2014 or newer.

AM4a.jpg

AM4b.jpg
 

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  • AM4.SLDPRT.txt
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I have a feeling that for that style both Corsair and Thermaltake (and others) used Asetek as their source for their AOIs, so that is quite plausible that'd work on Water2.0 and Water3.0 kits.

Seeing as we are STILL not been able to buy the Tt adapter... and with no word on an ETA either... if anyone can make it, I can guinea pig it! :shame: lol

EDIT: Just measured the diameter of my Water2.0's bracket between the two "teeth" with my caliper. 2.675inch. What's your design's dimension?

Measured.png
 
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TheLAWNoob said:
I'm willing to make it for free, but I have to calibrate my printer first. Just got the printer yesterday and didn't have time to set it up.
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That'd be swell, and fine by me :p Even if it took you an entire week to do what you needed, I sincerely doubt that Thermaltake will have theirs in stock or shipped to me if they happened to (not like they'll let me pre-order it :shifty:). When I replied to you before about you being able to print one before Corsair gets theirs out, I was being honest that my money is on a 3D Printed one being completed first! haha

That may be equal parts sad, as it is amazing, but at the end of the day it's really cool. We're in a day and age where we're almost to the point that if we need something, we can print it. ST: TNG replicators, here we come!
 
LAWNoob, good job, I am very impressed with the results. Looking forward to seeing how well they fit :)
 
Discovered an odd issue here. Second one really the first being the bus speed droop with virtualization turned on.

In BF4 the sound cuts in and out on me if I have the system overclocked. At stock clocks it doesn't do it. I've made sure to close Ryzen Master, HWInfo, etc. and it doesn't help. Disabling all sound output devices but the onboard I am using doesn't help.

Not sure where to go with this but it is a bit of a show stopper for me. May be stuck at stock clocks until or unless I'm able to solve this.
frown.gif


I am not the only one seeing this issue and it has apparently been a problem for a while. I'm assuming this is AMD specific though I haven't found proof of that yet.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id...henom-955.html
http://battlelog.battlefield.com/bf4...4770312500757/
 
Riptide_NVN said:
Discovered an odd issue here. Second one really the first being the bus speed droop with virtualization turned on.

In BF4 the sound cuts in and out on me if I have the system overclocked. At stock clocks it doesn't do it. I've made sure to close Ryzen Master, HWInfo, etc. and it doesn't help. Disabling all sound output devices but the onboard I am using doesn't help.

Not sure where to go with this but it is a bit of a show stopper for me. May be stuck at stock clocks until or unless I'm able to solve this.
frown.gif


I am not the only one seeing this issue and it has apparently been a problem for a while. I'm assuming this is AMD specific though I haven't found proof of that yet.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id...henom-955.html
http://battlelog.battlefield.com/bf4...4770312500757/
Click to expand...

Any other game or just bf4?
 
Riptide_NVN said:
Discovered an odd issue here. Second one really the first being the bus speed droop with virtualization turned on.

In BF4 the sound cuts in and out on me if I have the system overclocked. At stock clocks it doesn't do it. I've made sure to close Ryzen Master, HWInfo, etc. and it doesn't help. Disabling all sound output devices but the onboard I am using doesn't help.

Not sure where to go with this but it is a bit of a show stopper for me. May be stuck at stock clocks until or unless I'm able to solve this.
frown.gif


I am not the only one seeing this issue and it has apparently been a problem for a while. I'm assuming this is AMD specific though I haven't found proof of that yet.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id...henom-955.html
http://battlelog.battlefield.com/bf4...4770312500757/
Click to expand...

Seen this issue at Anandtech with BF1.

https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/ryzen-oc-battlefield-1-audio-issue.2501204/
 
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