New and Improved Watercooling Sticky - Post Your Systems Here

Made some changes (still need to update my sig)... 6700K @ 4.8ghz 1.38V, Asus Sabertooth Z170S White Camo Mobo... Performance wise it was more of a side grade but cosmetic its a huge upgrade.

 
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Nothing special
4770k stock
1080
Dc12-400 pump running at 8.0v with help from dc-dc converter mounted on top.

120.1
92.2 radiators

Fans pushing air in and out of case

No space for reservoir, basic t line.
 
Changed my project up a bit.
I need something new to build, but I'm not ready to let this one go just yet :/
 

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Been out of the game for many years but have run a watercooled system since 1999. I've since gone from overclocking everything to the nth degree to wanting low temps, quiet operation, and a solid workstation platform for years to come. I went with the X10DAX (supports up to 2TB) and built up from there. This is primarily a photo editing/work rig but of course I game too ;)

Btw Although this worked it was really tight and I cut/trimmed/drilled lots to make it work and I still don't have the upper radiator being cooled properly. Idle temps are ~29C on all GPU/CPU and load is about ~40C so far.

System Specs:

Supermicro X10DAX
2 x Intel Xeon 2630 V4 10 core/per, 2.2ghz, 3.3ghz turbo, 40 threads)
4 x 32GB Black Diamond ECC 2400mhz - 128gb total... upgrading to 256 shortly for quad channel -- screwed that aspect up
2 x Titan X Maxwell 12GB in SLI
Plextor 1TB NVME m2 pci-e
Mushkin 1TB Reactor
Intel X540 T2 10Gb x 2 - card glitching out and also needs a thinner heat sink to work in system
Soundblaster Z
Corsair AX1200 PSU

Cooling:

Lian Li PC-V1000LB - wanted black/black but unavailable anywhere
Alphacool Radiators 2 x 120, 3 x 120
PPC 2000 and 3000 fans - Impossible to install a second fan on top radiator. I plan on making a shroud for both fans and venting in from case panel
Heatmaster II for fan control mounted to rear of mobo tray- Anyone have an english version of this software?????
EK waterblocks for processors
Alphacool GPX-N Titan X blocks
Heatkiller 200 res x 2
Aphacool pumps x 2
Alphacool fittings

Other info:

Eaton 5PX 1500w UPS on workstation and server/network on a separate unit.
Photo storage is on my HP DL380e server with a large array running vmware.
Ubiquiti networks for 10Gb, 1Gb, router, access points, phones, security cameras

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Heres my current setup still needs some tweaking and some new parts got put on hold after i sprained my ankle bad and need tax return for a gtx 1080 and white pcie cables.

 
I finally jumped onto the water wagon. Got a 750d, NZXT HUE+, GRID+ v2, and the XSPC 750 kit. Changed out some of the fittings for Monsoon's, and 2 60degree ones for the run from the CPU to the Radiator. Need to figure out where to put the temp sensor. Maybe from the CPU to the radiator? The t-fitting goes to my drain hose. Still need to clean up a few of the wires, and the back looks a mess. But, hey, it's working.

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nHMMchZ

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Redid my loop because I had to swap out rads. Decided to add a long awaited drain line. As many times as I've washed out my loop, tubing, cpu block and rad, I kept forgetting to add a drain line. So when it came to me draining the system, it was a pain in the ass, so this time I didn't forget ( wifey reminded me :banghead:) . I added it so it's not in the way, but still have easy access to it.
 
Finally sort-of finished the vram and VRM cold plates I was hacking together. VRM is secured w/machine screws+nuts, vram is floating, both have ceramique underneath, copper sinks secured with AS epoxy xor the tape they came with.
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Bent it thinking I'd have the LEDs on top, then remembered the tubes were there. D:
 
Nobu said:
Finally sort-of finished the vram and VRM cold plates I was hacking together. VRM is secured w/machine screws+nuts, vram is floating, both have ceramique underneath, copper sinks secured with AS epoxy xor the tape they came with.
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Bent it thinking I'd have the LEDs on top, then remembered the tubes were there. D:
Click to expand...
Interesting use of the Frozenq Ncase M1 res!
 
Chapeau said:
Interesting use of the Frozenq Ncase M1 res!
Click to expand...
Yeah, wanted it there so I could fill/drain out the back...though because it's not flush it's not really practical. Need to get a couple 2-3mm extensions.
 
thesmokingman said:
It's awesome having a microcenter near that carries all sorts of EK goodies.
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You know, I live right near a Microcenter, and I never even thought to check there for my watercooling needs. I guess I just assumed that no local store would carry that stuff.

Good to know!
 
some updates to my build added white vardars got some 140s on the way to bad they arent white tho couldnt find any decent full white ones still need a new gpu thats another 2 months away. And my drain line annoys me lol just dont look great but i need one for when i switch out the gpus in a few months or clean my loop. I love the sound of the vardars up till 80% their near silent at 50-60% they are silent and cooling just as well as my cm fans at a less noise output. Any suggestions on what i can do to make it look even better.

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What it used to look like back in dec befor i did the case swap and added a 420 rad and killed my poor rx360.


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My rig with open case.


External MoRa3 Radiator, Eheim Ceramic Pump 12V, Koolance Quick Disconns, not nice but practical as I need to take parts in & out.

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My "your doing it wrong" setup

2x 240 swiftech radiators
D5 PWM pump
Large tube radiator (which needs replaced, again)
Rasa CPU block
2x heatkiller GPU blocks
Custom acrylic distribution block
6 McMaster-Carr QDC 1/4" oriface

3/8" copper line between pump, radiators distribution block, and part way to resevior

5/16 x 9/16 between distribution block, QDCs and blocks. Blocks fully parallel.

3/8" cheap clear Home Depot tubing to resevior

Loop order: res, pump, radiator 1, Distribution block, blocks, distribution block, radiator 2, res.

Normally it hangs from under the desk, with the hub and power switches mounted at the edge, it's dropped down at the moment and messy as a result
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And with the side panel

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Here's mine nothing special (with no side panel and with side panel) water cooling specs on signature
pretty crummy compare to most setups on this thread but it does the job second water pump and reservoir are on the other side of the case ( Is a Corsair Air 540 white)
 
I really like that Phanteks Evolv Tower....if it only was E-ATX !

I had to cut my Corsair 500r with steel cutting tools already to get the former Asus M9E to fit in...what a mess :)

Most fat boards are E-ATX meanwhile, they should adopt the cases as well.
 
Thats a lot of Voltage for a 2600k to reach 4.8 !

What are your temps in p95-AVX ?? My last 2600k went 4.8 rocksolid at 1.35v and 5.0 at 1.40v...RAM 2133MHz. Yours seems very high.
 
BitMaster said:
Thats a lot of Voltage for a 2600k to reach 4.8 !

What are your temps in p95-AVX ?? My last 2600k went 4.8 rocksolid at 1.35v and 5.0 at 1.40v...RAM 2133MHz. Yours seems very high.
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Sadly shes degarded so takes alot more i plan on a x99 system in a month or 2 i have had the 2600k at 4.8-5 ghz for nearly 6 years it used to take 1.45 for 5ghz now its right on the border of 1.5 and realbench stable not prime or ibt.


alxlwson said:
Three rads?
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yes a 420 a 360 and a 240 little overkill now that i dont have 2 7970s in it.
 
bal3wolf said:
Sadly shes degarded so takes alot more i plan on a x99 system in a month or 2 i have had the 2600k at 4.8-5 ghz for nearly 6 years it used to take 1.45 for 5ghz now its right on the border of 1.5 and realbench stable not prime or ibt.
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My 2500K didnt let me get away with a half hour test when I accidentally set it to around 1.5V after my mobo got its new LLC setting.
Previous to that it would get 4.7GHz @ 1.44V.
Immediately it dropped to 4.5GHz and over 2 years dropped to 4.3GHz @ around 1.4V.
My Dad now has it at 4GHz with quite low voltage comparatively.

Was I unlucky or are you lucky? :p
 
bal3wolf said:
Sadly shes degarded so takes alot more i plan on a x99 system in a month or 2 i have had the 2600k at 4.8-5 ghz for nearly 6 years it used to take 1.45 for 5ghz now its right on the border of 1.5 and realbench stable not prime or ibt.




yes a 420 a 360 and a 240 little overkill now that i dont have 2 7970s in it.
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No extra radiators are overkill...I actually think about some "internal" ones now as my case would allow it...in addition to my MoRa3 external Radiator ( 9x120mm or 4 x 180mm ).

Good thing with lots of water and pure mass is that you can use moderate power without ANY fan on the rad throughout the day, unless a very hot summer day.

To even expabd the "no-fan" time I really think about more radiator surface. The more the better imho..if sound pollution matters.


My 2600k degarded in an instant to zero :( Best CPU I ever owned !!!! ( and it was a freebee too , with mobo and RAM as well, consolidated DIY server that came back to daddy from a client )
 
bal3wolf said:

yes a 420 a 360 and a 240 little overkill now that i dont have 2 7970s in it.
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Damn, I ran an OCd 2600k and two 7970s off twin 240s and now it's a 3770k and 2x 7970s (all OCd) and I still don't think I need more radiator... Perhaps I am wrong.
 
Wrapping up major work on my latest upgrade, it's been since 2011 that I upgraded my system significantly. I very happy with it so far, I haven't gotten to overclocking yet, but it will come soon. I can't decide if I should use pastel white fluid, or just leave it clear. Give me your thoughts. I'll eventually upgrade the rad, I'm thinking an EK PE360, a thicker rad won't fit with the way I have my pumps setup currently. If I upgrade to a combo pump reservoir I may be able to add a 60mm rad in the front to help with cooling. Let me know what you guys think and give me suggestions for what else I could do to make the system look even better.

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I have never used any additives in my waterloop as many reviewers and testers stated that after a "while" those colour particles clogg your micro fins in the coolers. As I did not want to take chances I stayed with demin. Water and a litlle citrus acid to fight funghi etc.

From airbrushing in the past I remember that white colour usually has the largest molecules, so white would be the first to clogg I assume.


Tbh, even the clear water can get colour.Since I cleaned my HK-IV copper edition waterblock internally after 2 y use, I brushed and rinsed out grünspan/verdigris that accumulated at the front of the micro-fin gate.
Ever since I have done that the colour of the water gets blueish copper-oxide like colour. I guess I need to drain & flush again and see if that helps.


Btw, your build is very nice ! I could never spend that much time arranging cables:)
 
Some very sexy builds, and definitely gave me some ideas of what can be done. Almost embarrassed to post my little baby setup. lol

Was a pain in the Arse to setup up, its a swiftech H220X. Had to tear it down to get it in the In Win 303 case, so i figured since i had it broke down, id add some EK white pastel coolant to it. (yeah i know it supposedly voided the warranty and the potential for clogs/gumming up everything)

Ive definitely got the bug tho and definitely want to build a decent loop with the video card, and want to try my stab at hard tubing.

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Harry883 said:
Wrapping up major work on my latest upgrade, it's been since 2011 that I upgraded my system significantly. I very happy with it so far, I haven't gotten to overclocking yet, but it will come soon. I can't decide if I should use pastel white fluid, or just leave it clear. Give me your thoughts. I'll eventually upgrade the rad, I'm thinking an EK PE360, a thicker rad won't fit with the way I have my pumps setup currently. If I upgrade to a combo pump reservoir I may be able to add a 60mm rad in the front to help with cooling. Let me know what you guys think and give me suggestions for what else I could do to make the system look even better.

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That looks nice and clean.


I'm curious though. How does the water flow when you connect all four connections to the GPU waterblock like that?
 
sysfailur said:
Heatmaster II for fan control mounted to rear of mobo tray- Anyone have an english version of this software?????

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I'm intrigued by that Heatmaster II. How does it work? It sounds like you program it via software. Is it USB connected?

Does the software run real time, or can you program it to your desired settings, and then have it run without the software running?
 
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