NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Qrash said:

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. It's been a busy day (tracking down seafood and champagne for our New Year's Eve feast), so there was no progress today.

My plan is to clear the BIOS (jumper the motherboard pins and remove the battery) as well as replace the CPU fan in case low RPMs or poor speed reporting at startup is an issue. Next I will try another power supply (a Seasonic ATX). Also, when I used a different power switch it was plugged into an extension cable so I will try again with it plugged directly into the motherboard.

Unfortunately, I don't have any other DDR4 memory, another Skylake CPU or compatible motherboard to test with.

Click to expand...

Ok this might sound like an oddball idea but when I was googling around looking for Asus Z170 boot problems it actually showed up several times. Are you using a display port cable with your video card? If so try it with the motherboard. Doesn't seem like it would cause problems but several people reported that it was.

rfarmer said:

Ok this might sound like an oddball idea but when I was googling around looking for Asus Z170 boot problems it actually showed up several times. Are you using a display port cable with your video card? If so try it with the motherboard. Doesn't seem like it would cause problems but several people reported that it was.

Click to expand...

Thanks for looking this up. I think I read the same postings as you. I honestly didn't think this motherboard had any video ports on it. I will try this suggestion as well. Thanks again.

WE HAVE LIFTOFF! Just went over all the connections from yesterday and my pwr + and - were switched. Whew...everything is running very quiet and smoothly.

For those of you who want to use the STRIX 1080 card and were worried about the install, I installed it OUTSIDE of the box onto the motherboard and then installed the motherboard...so easy that way, I was only able to secure the board with three screws but it's fine.

I need to go get a longer HDMI cable so I can close the cabinet.

I redid my loop last week to include my new gpu waterblock.

Some of the pipes are not 100% perfect, but I got the concept of how I want my lines to be set.

I may replace all the lines again in the near future when I can find a way to make them perfect.

I may get all my measurements perfect, then have my friend 3d print some molds for each tube. Would be pretty cool to just heat up the whole tube, place it into a 3d printed form and then close the top of the form and let it cool down.

That is a really good idea with 3d printing the tube forms. Build looks great, nice job

How are you going to get the tubes smooth on the inside?

anak85 said:

Test if it's the switch first of all by using another switch. You can put your other M1 close to it and wire the switch from that.

If the error persists it is not the switch most likely. Next would be to test the PSU and then the mobo...

Click to expand...

Changing the switch does not help. Also, my motherboard is out of the case to eliminate the chances of a short circuit somewhere.

Chapeau said:

Probably not entirely related - But I've noticed that depending on windows and the power move, my computer exhibits something similar to your behavior. Like it want to go in hibernation instead of sleep.
Have you tried taking the motherboard CMOS batt out to clear the memory? Perhaps this might reset any conflicting settings.

Click to expand...

I removed (unplugged actually with this motherboard) the battery and used the CLRTC jumper in attempts to clear the CMOS. Still no change in behaviour.

rfarmer said:

Ok this might sound like an oddball idea but when I was googling around looking for Asus Z170 boot problems it actually showed up several times. Are you using a display port cable with your video card? If so try it with the motherboard. Doesn't seem like it would cause problems but several people reported that it was.

Click to expand...

I removed the graphics card and plugged an HDMI cable into the motherboard with no improvement.

In fact, now the motherboard doesn't ever boot no matter how long I press the power switch closed. I have tried with no RAM, 1 RAM module, the other RAM module, each one in both slots on their own. No booting at all. No beeps from the piezo speaker either, so I'm not even getting to the POST anymore. I don't have another CPU to try with. I think it's the motherboard.

Opinions or suggestions?

StrawKite said:

How are you going to get the tubes smooth on the inside?

Click to expand...

Same way its normally done when bending by hand. Put a silicone hose in, then heat it all up and put it into the form

drklu said:

That is a really good idea with 3d printing the tube forms. Build looks great, nice job

Click to expand...

I think one way to make it nice and easy would be to 3d print the bend forms, then 3d print lengths of straight forms.
cutting and trimming the straight forms till you have a perfect fit... then glue them to the bend forms.

basically I could make a modular bending system that all you have to do is heat up the tube, place it in the form and clamp the lid on.

My NCase M1 V5 build:

Notes:
This is my first personal PC build. I chose to use the NH-C14S from Noctua even though it meant I would probably need to use a slim fan. I also had to use an adapter to place my SF600 in a different position to leave space for the 140mm fan on the NH-C14S.
It was very easy to build in the case, and I had zero hiccups. The length of the original cables from the SF600 was fine too, although people from the forum had me worried with all their modding.
Reason I didnt get a gtx 1080 and an i7 was money. I'll be able to upgrade soon, when I'm done with my education.

Parts:

Pictures

OC to 4,5 ghz with 1.3v results

Fan settings for whisper quiet (manual)

StrawKite said:

My NCase M1 V5 build:

Notes:
This is my first personal PC build. I chose to use the NH-C14S from Noctua even though it meant I would probably need to use a slim fan. I also had to use an adapter to place my SF600 in a different position to leave space for the 140mm fan on the NH-C14S.
It was very easy to build in the case, and I had zero hiccups. The length of the original cables from the SF600 was fine too, although people from the forum had me worried with all their modding.
Reason I didnt get a gtx 1080 and an i7 was money. I'll be able to upgrade soon, when I'm done with my education.

Parts:

Spoiler

[PCPartPicker part list](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HmnMXH) / [Price breakdown by merchant](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HmnMXH/by_merchant/)

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/gx648d/intel-cpu-bx80662i56600k) | $229.99 @ SuperBiiz
**CPU Cooler** | [Noctua NH-C14S 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kykwrH/noctua-cpu-cooler-nhc14s) | $78.89 @ OutletPC
**Motherboard** | [Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TykwrH/asus-motherboard-z170iprogaming) | $154.99 @ SuperBiiz
**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-3000 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sk98TW/corsair-memory-cmk16gx4m1b3000c15) | $94.99 @ Jet
**Storage** | [Intel 600p Series 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MF...6gb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-ssdpekkw256g7x1) | $94.88 @ OutletPC
**Video Card** | [Asus GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB Dual Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Kh38TW/asus-geforce-gtx-1060-3gb-dual-video-card-dual-gtx1060-o3g) | $204.99 @ Newegg
**Power Supply** | [Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CQ648d/corsair-power-supply-cp9020105na) | $119.99 @ Corsair
**Case Fan** | [Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/b2vRsY/noctua-case-fan-nff12pwm) | $17.49 @ Newegg
**Case Fan** | [Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/b2vRsY/noctua-case-fan-nff12pwm) | $17.49 @ Newegg
**Case Fan** | [Silverstone FW121 32.6 CFM 120mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4QzZxr/silverstone-case-fan-fw121) | $13.99 @ Newegg
**Other**| Corsair SFX to ATX PSU Adapter Bracket| $16.00
**Other**| NCase M1 V5 Black No optical drive slot| $266.00
**Other**| Windows 10 Pro N 64 bit| $33.00
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **$1342.69**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](http://pcpartpicker.com) 2016-12-30 15:10 EST-0500 |

Pictures

Spoiler

OC to 4,5 ghz with 1.3v results (1st is on full speed, second is with whisper silent manual settings)

Spoiler

Click to expand...

Looks like a successful build. Way to go! Your CPU temps look fine. It looks like you are drawing air into the case through the CPU cooler fins. Have you tried without the thin fan in place? I wonder if it makes much of a difference.

Also, from a personal interest, have you had any trouble powering on the computer, such as holding the power button for a couple of seconds?

Qrash said:

Looks like a successful build. Way to go! Your CPU temps look fine. It looks like you are drawing air into the case through the CPU cooler fins. Have you tried without the thin fan in place? I wonder if it makes much of a difference.

Also, from a personal interest, have you had any trouble powering on the computer, such as holding the power button for a couple of seconds?

Click to expand...

No I have not had any power issues yet. Though sometimes when i have moved the usb devices they dont detect immeadiatly when i power on, but i think thats normal.

Should I try removing the slim fan and do another test? (I should do the test at full fan speed right?)

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm glad your computer is functioning well. Frankly, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" applies here. Your computer is working fine and you are happy with it. I was just curious about how well the NH-C14S would work with only the bottom fan. Some NH-C14 owners run that way, so I expect yours would be fine. If you do try it out, I would test with both fan settings (full speed and the silent manual setting).

Yes, it's normal for Windows to detect a device all over again when you plug it into a different USB port. The next time you plug it into a port that it's already been plugged into, it should work almost instantly.

Qrash said:

Looks like a successful build. Way to go! Your CPU temps look fine. It looks like you are drawing air into the case through the CPU cooler fins. Have you tried without the thin fan in place? I wonder if it makes much of a difference.

Also, from a personal interest, have you had any trouble powering on the computer, such as holding the power button for a couple of seconds?

Click to expand...

Same motherboard and I have had no power on issues as of yet.

StrawKite said:

My NCase M1 V5 build:

Notes:
This is my first personal PC build. I chose to use the NH-C14S from Noctua even though it meant I would probably need to use a slim fan. I also had to use an adapter to place my SF600 in a different position to leave space for the 140mm fan on the NH-C14S.
It was very easy to build in the case, and I had zero hiccups. The length of the original cables from the SF600 was fine too, although people from the forum had me worried with all their modding.
Reason I didnt get a gtx 1080 and an i7 was money. I'll be able to upgrade soon, when I'm done with my education.

Parts:

Spoiler

[PCPartPicker part list](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HmnMXH) / [Price breakdown by merchant](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HmnMXH/by_merchant/)

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/gx648d/intel-cpu-bx80662i56600k) | $229.99 @ SuperBiiz
**CPU Cooler** | [Noctua NH-C14S 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kykwrH/noctua-cpu-cooler-nhc14s) | $78.89 @ OutletPC
**Motherboard** | [Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TykwrH/asus-motherboard-z170iprogaming) | $154.99 @ SuperBiiz
**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-3000 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sk98TW/corsair-memory-cmk16gx4m1b3000c15) | $94.99 @ Jet
**Storage** | [Intel 600p Series 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MF...6gb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-ssdpekkw256g7x1) | $94.88 @ OutletPC
**Video Card** | [Asus GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB Dual Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Kh38TW/asus-geforce-gtx-1060-3gb-dual-video-card-dual-gtx1060-o3g) | $204.99 @ Newegg
**Power Supply** | [Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CQ648d/corsair-power-supply-cp9020105na) | $119.99 @ Corsair
**Case Fan** | [Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/b2vRsY/noctua-case-fan-nff12pwm) | $17.49 @ Newegg
**Case Fan** | [Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/b2vRsY/noctua-case-fan-nff12pwm) | $17.49 @ Newegg
**Case Fan** | [Silverstone FW121 32.6 CFM 120mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4QzZxr/silverstone-case-fan-fw121) | $13.99 @ Newegg
**Other**| Corsair SFX to ATX PSU Adapter Bracket| $16.00
**Other**| NCase M1 V5 Black No optical drive slot| $266.00
**Other**| Windows 10 Pro N 64 bit| $33.00
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **$1342.69**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](http://pcpartpicker.com) 2016-12-30 15:10 EST-0500 |

Pictures

Spoiler

OC to 4,5 ghz with 1.3v results (1st is on full speed, second is with whisper silent manual settings)

Spoiler

Click to expand...

StrawKite said:

No I have not had any power issues yet. Though sometimes when i have moved the usb devices they dont detect immeadiatly when i power on, but i think thats normal.

Should I try removing the slim fan and do another test? (I should do the test at full fan speed right?)

Click to expand...

Good work there!

Any reason you changed the core voltage? I simply left it on Auto. But that I guess shouldn't make huge difference.

I would be very interested to see your fan speeds when you are running under load. In Aida65 go to Computer -> Sensors. There one can see all that is going on.

Your temps seem a little higher than mine but nothing to worry about really! Maybe missing the side bracket fan next to the CPU cooler does make a bigger difference and forces the air out the case.

ejohnson said:

Same way its normally done when bending by hand. Put a silicone hose in, then heat it all up and put it into the form




I think one way to make it nice and easy would be to 3d print the bend forms, then 3d print lengths of straight forms.
cutting and trimming the straight forms till you have a perfect fit... then glue them to the bend forms.

basically I could make a modular bending system that all you have to do is heat up the tube, place it in the form and clamp the lid on.

Click to expand...

I think just printing half of the bend is all you need. I wouldn't worry about making anything modular. If you are going to do something modular you might as well get a mandrel kit. The hardest thing about getting bends perfect is the distance between the bends in my experience. It doesn't need to be perfect you do have some wiggle room.

Qrash said:

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm glad your computer is functioning well. Frankly, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" applies here. Your computer is working fine and you are happy with it. I was just curious about how well the NH-C14S would work with only the bottom fan. Some NH-C14 owners run that way, so I expect yours would be fine. If you do try it out, I would test with both fan settings (full speed and the silent manual setting).

Yes, it's normal for Windows to detect a device all over again when you plug it into a different USB port. The next time you plug it into a port that it's already been plugged into, it should work almost instantly.

Click to expand...

I tested it without the slim fan installed and made a graph for easier comparison.

Conclusion the slim fan shaves off about 3-6 degrees depending on what fan speed you choose to use.

Fan presets

anak85 said:

Good work there!

Any reason you changed the core voltage? I simply left it on Auto. But that I guess shouldn't make huge difference.

I would be very interested to see your fan speeds when you are running under load. In Aida65 go to Computer -> Sensors. There one can see all that is going on.

Your temps seem a little higher than mine but nothing to worry about really! Maybe missing the side bracket fan next to the CPU cooler does make a bigger difference and forces the air out the case.

Click to expand...

If you set it to auto you do not have a constant heat output, and so I figured the test would show uneven results. If we all use the same value we should get the same results despite our differences in chip quality.

Fan speeds can be seen above.

StrawKite said:

I tested it without the slim fan installed and made a graph for easier comparison.

Spoiler

Conclusion the slim fan shaves off about 3-6 degrees depending on what fan speed you choose to use.

Fan presets

Spoiler

If you set it to auto you do not have a constant heat output, and so I figured the test would show uneven results. If we all use the same value we should get the same results despite our differences in chip quality.

Fan speeds can be seen above.

Click to expand...

Thanks for those test results. I am sure others here will be interested in them given the lack of NH-C14 coolers. It looks like the NH-C14S works fine in the M!.

Qrash said:

Changing the switch does not help. Also, my motherboard is out of the case to eliminate the chances of a short circuit somewhere.

I removed (unplugged actually with this motherboard) the battery and used the CLRTC jumper in attempts to clear the CMOS. Still no change in behaviour.

I removed the graphics card and plugged an HDMI cable into the motherboard with no improvement.

In fact, now the motherboard doesn't ever boot no matter how long I press the power switch closed. I have tried with no RAM, 1 RAM module, the other RAM module, each one in both slots on their own. No booting at all. No beeps from the piezo speaker either, so I'm not even getting to the POST anymore. I don't have another CPU to try with. I think it's the motherboard.

Opinions or suggestions?

Click to expand...

PROBLEM SOLVED! My son's M1 build now boots normally. Hurray!

Short version: I found 2 bent pins in the CPU socket. Once they were straightened, everything worked perfectly.

Long version:

Qrash said:

PROBLEM SOLVED! My son's M1 build now boots normally. Hurray!

Short version: I found 2 bent pins in the CPU socket. Once they were straightened, everything worked perfectly.

Long version:

Spoiler

So I had given up hope and sent a message to Asus Canada to begin the RMA process. It was more than 30 days since I had purchased the motherboard from Direct Canada so I had to deal with Asus. I began stripping down the motherboard, including removing the CPU. I had used the CPU Installation Tool that Asus provides with the Z170I Pro Gaming. It's a thin black frame that you clip onto the edges of the CPU and then use to place the CPU onto the CPU socket. Apparently, it's supposed to prevent bent pins. I had never used this tool before and I found it tricky to attach to the CPU securely. I finally got it on correctly and lowered the Tool and the CPU down onto the open socket. Close the CPU socket lid and latch it shut and you're all done. The CPU Tool stays in the socket aournd the CPU. Instructions at the Asus ROG site.

I did this a few weeks ago, but had never fired up the computer. I was waiting for the Samsung 960 EVO M.2 SSD drives to be available and then arrive. That took weeks longer than expected and this is why I hadn't powered on the computer and found the problem. My son actually used the computer for several hours on Christmas without any issues, but then it started getting harder to start and sometimes there was no image displayed even when it did seem to start. Back to my story.

So when I removed the CPU this afternoon I immediately saw what I first thought were two holes or gaps in the array of pins. Clsoer examination revealed that these were two bent pins. I don't think Asus replaces motherboards that the owner wrecks, do they? In the photo below, one of the bent pins is outlined in red. It should be along the yellow line, similar to the adjacent pin that is outlined in green.




Out came the magnifying lamps and a set of fine dental tools. With great care I was able to straighten the two bent pins. I threw away the Asus CPU Installation Tool and placed the CPU back in the socket, just like I have done many times in the past. I re-installed the CPU cooler, one RAM module, and hooked up the power cables to the motherboard. With great trepidation I pressed the temporary power switch, briefly this time. Lol and behold, the computer started right up. I had to go into the UEFI setup menus where I loaded the Optimized Defaults (F5), reset the date and time, and then saved and restarted (F10). Windows appeared like nothing wrong had ever happened. Success!!

Click to expand...

Glad you were able to find the problem and not deal with RMA on the motherboard, hopefully it is smooth sailing from now on.

Qrash said:

PROBLEM SOLVED! My son's M1 build now boots normally. Hurray!

Short version: I found 2 bent pins in the CPU socket. Once they were straightened, everything worked perfectly.

Long version:

Spoiler

So I had given up hope and sent a message to Asus Canada to begin the RMA process. It was more than 30 days since I had purchased the motherboard from Direct Canada so I had to deal with Asus. I began stripping down the motherboard, including removing the CPU. I had used the CPU Installation Tool that Asus provides with the Z170I Pro Gaming. It's a thin black frame that you clip onto the edges of the CPU and then use to place the CPU onto the CPU socket. Apparently, it's supposed to prevent bent pins. I had never used this tool before and I found it tricky to attach to the CPU securely. I finally got it on correctly and lowered the Tool and the CPU down onto the open socket. Close the CPU socket lid and latch it shut and you're all done. The CPU Tool stays in the socket aournd the CPU. Instructions at the Asus ROG site.

I did this a few weeks ago, but had never fired up the computer. I was waiting for the Samsung 960 EVO M.2 SSD drives to be available and then arrive. That took weeks longer than expected and this is why I hadn't powered on the computer and found the problem. My son actually used the computer for several hours on Christmas without any issues, but then it started getting harder to start and sometimes there was no image displayed even when it did seem to start. Back to my story.

So when I removed the CPU this afternoon I immediately saw what I first thought were two holes or gaps in the array of pins. Clsoer examination revealed that these were two bent pins. I don't think Asus replaces motherboards that the owner wrecks, do they? In the photo below, one of the bent pins is outlined in red. It should be along the yellow line, similar to the adjacent pin that is outlined in green.




Out came the magnifying lamps and a set of fine dental tools. With great care I was able to straighten the two bent pins. I threw away the Asus CPU Installation Tool and placed the CPU back in the socket, just like I have done many times in the past. I re-installed the CPU cooler, one RAM module, and hooked up the power cables to the motherboard. With great trepidation I pressed the temporary power switch, briefly this time. Lol and behold, the computer started right up. I had to go into the UEFI setup menus where I loaded the Optimized Defaults (F5), reset the date and time, and then saved and restarted (F10). Windows appeared like nothing wrong had ever happened. Success!!

Click to expand...

Nice piece of hardware trouble shooting! Had a similar 'bent pin' issue once but I discovered it during assembly, not after.

Here is a (poor) photo of the reassembled computer. This shows the twisting that I applied to the 24-pin cable. It loops down the side of the power supply and then underneath it. A medium tie-wrap loop through a front panel anchor point applies tension to the 24-pin cable so that it is held up against the power supply away from the graphics card. This time I decided not to route any of the PS cables under the motherboard. In fact, only short sections of the multi-coloured USB extension and the front I/O cables pass diagonally under the bottom right corner (in this photo) of the motherboard.

Qrash said:

Here is a (poor) photo of the reassembled computer. This shows the twisting that I applied to the 24-pin cable. It loops down the side of the power supply and then underneath it. A medium tie-wrap loop through a front panel anchor point applies tension to the 24-pin cable so that it is held up against the power supply away from the graphics card. This time I decided not to route any of the PS cables under the motherboard. In fact, only short sections of the multi-coloured USB extension and the front I/O cables pass diagonally under the bottom right corner (in this photo) of the motherboard.

Click to expand...

Very nice job on cable management, looks good.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/10947/zotac-announces-geforce-gtx-1080-for-miniitx-pcs

Zotac is releasing a GTX 1080 mini to go with their GTX 1070 mini. At 8.27" x 4.80" these are some nice compact cards.

rfarmer said:

Very nice job on cable management, looks good.

Click to expand...

Aw heck, it's doing it again. I don't know if the CPU socket pins are bent again or if it's something else. Maybe I shouldn't twist the power supply cables like that. I think the graphics card might have one bad DisplayPort, so maybe it's the cause. Tomorrow is another day for troubleshooting. Sigh.

Qrash said:

Aw heck, it's doing it again. I don't know if the CPU socket pins are bent again or if it's something else. Maybe I shouldn't twist the power supply cables like that. I think the graphics card might have one bad DisplayPort, so maybe it's the cause. Tomorrow is another day for troubleshooting. Sigh.

Click to expand...

I feel for you, I would be crazy over this.

I dont think that curling of the wires is good for your system. Interference can cause problems.

Earlier in the thread, someone mentioned an NH-C14 in some store in the UK, last one, but it looked scammy. Well, I went and ordered it (UK based).

Delivered today, and is a brand new one - absolute score.

I have my H100i fans hooked into the STRIX fan slots. Anyone else doing this? So far it seems to work out pretty well.

Tephnos said:

Earlier in the thread, someone mentioned an NH-C14 in some store in the UK, last one, but it looked scammy. Well, I went and ordered it (UK based).

Delivered today, and is a brand new one - absolute score.

Click to expand...

That was me that spread FUD (Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt). I humbly apologize. Glad you were successful! I was able to get one from Canada using a local friend to reship one to me.

I wish you a speedy and successful build (as for me, I've had to RMA both my Mobo and my CPU so far)!

Looks like Japan likes the ncase

http://www.abee.co.jp/Product/CASE/AS_Enclosure/RS01/index.html

majic12 said:

Looks like Japan likes the ncase

http://www.abee.co.jp/Product/CASE/AS_Enclosure/RS01/index.html

Click to expand...

I think Ncase's design has been ripped off. That case is a bit wider than the M1, but the similarities are everywhere. At what point does nearly the same design cross the line?

Qrash said:

Here is a (poor) photo of the reassembled computer. This shows the twisting that I applied to the 24-pin cable. It loops down the side of the power supply and then underneath it. A medium tie-wrap loop through a front panel anchor point applies tension to the 24-pin cable so that it is held up against the power supply away from the graphics card. This time I decided not to route any of the PS cables under the motherboard. In fact, only short sections of the multi-coloured USB extension and the front I/O cables pass diagonally under the bottom right corner (in this photo) of the motherboard.

Click to expand...

Never suspected the O.E. power cables could be so well managed. The twisting trick is brilliant, and simple. You just saved me the hassle and cost of custom cables!

StrawKite said:

I dont think that curling of the wires is good for your system. Interference can cause problems.

Click to expand...

Hmmm. Are you sure? Like some kind of magnetic field or something I guess. I'm no electrical engineer but I question if it would cause a problem.

majic12 said:

Looks like Japan likes the ncase

http://www.abee.co.jp/Product/CASE/AS_Enclosure/RS01/index.html

Click to expand...

That is nearly a direct copy, well they say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I have to admit I like the color choices.

Chimaera43 said:

Hmmm. Are you sure? Like some kind of magnetic field or something I guess. I'm no electrical engineer but I question if it would cause a problem.

Click to expand...

On an AC cable it'd absolutely be a bad idea. However with DC cables like this, so long as he hasn't twisted it tightly enough to change the cross sectional area anywhere along the conductors (ie. stretch them) it'll be fine. For what it's worth, he's no where near twisting it tightly enough to stretch the cables.

OmenemO said:

On an AC cable it'd absolutely be a bad idea. However with DC cables like this, so long as he hasn't twisted it tightly enough to change the cross sectional area anywhere along the conductors (ie. stretch them) it'll be fine. For what it's worth, he's no where near twisting it tightly enough to stretch the cables.

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Thanks for that input, had me concerned there for a moment.

Chimaera43 said:

Hmmm. Are you sure? Like some kind of magnetic field or something I guess. I'm no electrical engineer but I question if it would cause a problem.

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In apartmens you cant spin network csbles with powerlines, thats all i know

Also i got my 6600k OCd to 4.8 ghz using 1.36v. Just under 80 degrees celsius max.

majic12 said:

Looks like Japan likes the ncase

http://www.abee.co.jp/Product/CASE/AS_Enclosure/RS01/index.html

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It lacks the crucial component of the "frunk" for SSD storage and an optical drive, making it an inferior design. I doubt w360 or Necere have any patents that would affect Japan's production of it, but if they can sell it and make it at a good enough price, sure. I do like the colors though. Do they have toolless side panels though?

In fact, I think it's a perfect case for the Japanese market based on how small their homes are.

Chimaera43 said:

Never suspected the O.E. power cables could be so well managed. The twisting trick is brilliant, and simple. You just saved me the hassle and cost of custom cables!

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Glad it helped. I'm not sure which direction I twisted the 24-pin cable or how many times, but it was still a bit too long so it makes a U-turn at the front panel before plugging into the power supply. The U is where a tie-wrap loops through to the anchor point on the front panel. This applies tension to the 24-pin cable so that it stays tight against the side and bottom of the power supply. The twisting makes the 24-pin cable very stiff, but in this case this is desired as it helps keep it from sagging onto the graphics card. The 8-pin motherboard cable is folded in half lengthwise and runs along the long edge of the frame right beside the internal AC power cable, then it dives down beside the power supply (unfolded at this turn and beyond) and runs alongside the twisted 24-pin cable. Underneath the power supply it loops over the 24-pin cable before being plugged into the power supply. This provides more lift to the heavy 24-pin cable. It is still possible to plug in the SATA and PCI-E power cables amongst the motherboard power cables.

As for the twisting, I don't believe this is the reason for my booting problems. I have replaced the power supply with two others (Silverstone SX600-G (SFX) and Seasonic X-series 650W (ATX)) and the behaviour is the same with all three, and this is with straight untwisted power supply cables: The computer boots fine on the first attempt after the power supply is connected and powered on. Everything runs fine, including Aida64 Stress Test. Temperatures are in the 60s C. All of this is with the motherboard out of the case and with only one RAM module, and no SATA devices or graphics card (HDMI plugged into the rear I/O for the 6700K's internal GPU. I have just the bare minimum of hardware installed: one fan on the NH-U9S cooler, the Samsung 960 EVO M.2 SSD (never exceeds 40 C), and a small piezo speaker for any POST beeps. Windows behaves completely normally so I don't think the problems are with the CPU or the RAM. After I shut down Windows and count to 10, that\s when the problems start. At first, pressing and holding the power switch might result in a successful boot, but eventually the system just sits there with no beeps and only the Power LED on the motherboard (beside the PCI-E x16 slot) active (solid red). At this point I think the problem must be with the motherboard. If I disconnect all of the power cables and then reapply them, the computer will boot the first time, but then it becomes increasing unresponsive all over again.

Does anyone have any other ideas I can try?

Hello Everyone,

I've read 300+ pages of this forum in order to prepare myself for completing my wife's build with the M1. She is an artist/designer/video editor/developer and this is her first PC in like 8 years as she has been with Apple. Finally she got tired of the lack of performance and upgradeability. Naturally, she was drawn to the M1 and made it clear that's this was the case she wanted. I was worried because this was my first time building a PC, and the M1 is so small. But I started and completed the build last night and it started with no issues!


The build went smoothly and the only problem I ran into was with cable management. It caused mounting the Radiator back into the case to be a pain, but I know where I went wrong and plan on going back in and bundling more of the cables under the SP to get more clearance. I will post pics when I do this, as right now the wife is installing all her programs and needs to get back to work.

I would like to benchmark this guy, however I'm not familiar with that. Can any of you recommend which programs are best to get this done?

And I really want to thank all the posters here, any questions or problems I had I was able to find a solution here and it help a lot.

Happy New Years!