NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

anak85 said:
You can see my setup here:
Images: http://imgur.com/a/5yE6V

I fastened both fans directly to the side bracket.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Some final questions (I think) -
How do you have the fans wired - are the P14s connected to the same fan header with the C14s included splitter? And you seem to have them on the left side and left bottom, instead of left/right on the side plate? Since they're not PWM, are you using the Low-Noise Adapters, or running them full-blast?

I see you are also using an A15 and two S12As in your description; where are they in the case and how are they wired up, if you don't mind me asking? (Can't pick these out by sight yet ;) )

Thanks again, this is helpful while I wait to RMA my CPU.
 
Which one does 4K, HDR, VR, and is quieter?
The one on the right.

NCase M1
Intel 4790k
MSI Seahawk GTX 1070 (running a Noctua fan on the radiator)
16GB Ram
1TB SSD + 2TB HDD (may swap out the HDD for an intake fan at the bottom)
+ a HTC Vive
 

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s4dus said:
Blocks for a Itx card are a universal blocks for the GPU chip only so would need a heatsinks for rest of the hot components on the card. OK, will then get a full size GPU but not sure what kind of card as I want to get a good card money vs performance vs quality vs durability.
Click to expand...

You can get waterblocks for several of the non reference 1070s but you need to consider the width. You only have 140mm clearance. All the MSI except the Aero and FE are too wide. Cards like the Strix will be too wide with a block. You can check EVGA, they have several non reference designs that are under 115mm and have blocks available. At least from EK, they have them for most of the EVGA line.
 
Morgon said:
Thanks! Some final questions (I think) -
How do you have the fans wired - are the P14s connected to the same fan header with the C14s included splitter? And you seem to have them on the left side and left bottom, instead of left/right on the side plate? Since they're not PWM, are you using the Low-Noise Adapters, or running them full-blast?

I see you are also using an A15 and two S12As in your description; where are they in the case and how are they wired up, if you don't mind me asking? (Can't pick these out by sight yet ;) )

Thanks again, this is helpful while I wait to RMA my CPU.
Click to expand...

I have the Noctua NF-A15 PWM above the CPU heat sink and I run it at 300rpm in idle and ramping up to ~6-700rpm under load. Still virtually inaudible when just stressing the CPU.

I have one S12A in the side bracket next to it run from the second header. The Asus Z170I Pro Gaming can controll PWM and DC fans. So this one is running at around 400rpm at idle and 5-600rpm under load. Think I am using a low-noise adapter here.

On the case floor I have 1x P14 and 1x S12A split on the third fan header. They are controlled using SpeedFan and set to follow the GPU temps. Here I am also using a low-noise adapter and the fans are at 400rpm during idle and around 6-700rpm under load.

I am a little annoyed I didnt get all PWM. Slight mistake on my part back in the day, but I am very happy with the temps so not changing a working system :)
 
luddviig said:
I'm going to buy a new video card and the Arctic Accelero Xtreme IV or III. What is the diffrence between them and are they hard to install, does it include everything I need or do I need to buy anything else? Is it compatible with every 1070 or just the reference card? If anyone has experience with Arctic Accelero Xtreme please tell me!
Click to expand...
I can confirm that the Arctic Accellero 3 will not fit in the NCase.
I recently pulled one off of a GTX 970 (preparing it for another ITX build), and measured it against the NCase. It's a bit longer than the case, and thus is impossible to fit inside of it, regardless of socket position on your card.
 
gsilver said:
I can confirm that the Arctic Accellero 3 will not fit in the NCase.
I recently pulled one off of a GTX 970 (preparing it for another ITX build), and measured it against the NCase. It's a bit longer than the case, and thus is impossible to fit inside of it, regardless of socket position on your card.
Click to expand...

Several people have posted about using the Arctic Accelero Xtreme III (and IV) in their M1 builds. In all such builds the Arctic fans are removed and 120 mm fans at the bottom of the case draw air through the Xtreme heatsinks. Some have the fans set to intake air and others use them to exhaust air.
 
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gsilver said:
I can confirm that the Arctic Accellero 3 will not fit in the NCase.
I recently pulled one off of a GTX 970 (preparing it for another ITX build), and measured it against the NCase. It's a bit longer than the case, and thus is impossible to fit inside of it, regardless of socket position on your card.
Click to expand...

If you look around you will find several examples of the Arctic Accellero 3 installed in the Ncase. Like Qrash said it works really well with this case because you can use the case fan mounting holes and it sits right next to them. Like the Noctua C14 it just seems made for this case.

tSvSuT6.png
 
gsilver said:
I can confirm that the Arctic Accellero 3 will not fit in the NCase.
I recently pulled one off of a GTX 970 (preparing it for another ITX build), and measured it against the NCase. It's a bit longer than the case, and thus is impossible to fit inside of it, regardless of socket position on your card.
Click to expand...

Wrong. The IV is the exact same heatsink as the III and it fits just fine.
 
rfarmer said:
If you look around you will find several examples of the Arctic Accellero 3 installed in the Ncase. Like Qrash said it works really well with this case because you can use the case fan mounting holes and it sits right next to them. Like the Noctua C14 it just seems made for this case.
Click to expand...

Tephnos said:
Wrong. The IV is the exact same heatsink as the III and it fits just fine.
Click to expand...

What is the clearance between the PCB of the GPU and the heat sink? I am going to order some VRM heat sinks and want to be sure not to buy anything too large...
 
anak85 said:
What is the clearance between the PCB of the GPU and the heat sink? I am going to order some VRM heat sinks and want to be sure not to buy anything too large...
Click to expand...

On the webpage for the Arctic products click on the Support link. In the Downloads section will be a Height Restriction Drawing PDF. Due to the design of the Accelero Xtreme III (and IV), the curvature of the heat pipes causes the maximum height under them to vary from 3 to 19 mm. Once the heatpipes are into the fin arrays, the maximum height underneath the fins is 13 mm. Please see the document linked below for all of the details.

https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/downloa...ero_xtreme_iii_height_restriction_drawing.pdf
 
anak85 said:
What is the clearance between the PCB of the GPU and the heat sink? I am going to order some VRM heat sinks and want to be sure not to buy anything too large...
Click to expand...

Oh god...please be careful with those heat sinks..I posted my old system couple weeks ago..those heat sinks fell, shorted the circuit, and fried my cpu and motherboard. :( Stupid me..

Oh, I just saw that you are using them for GPU :p
 
broddy said:
Oh god...please be careful with those heat sinks..I posted my old system couple weeks ago..those heat sinks fell, shorted the circuit, and fried my cpu and motherboard. :( Stupid me..

Oh, I just saw that you are using them for GPU :p
Click to expand...
I've also had little aluminum heat sinks come adrift inside a case. Luckily they didn't short any circuits. Do take care.
 
Hi everyone. I thougth I would post some completed build photos of the M1 I gave to my son for Christmas. He was very surprised and appreciative of his own M1. Link to the build's parts list: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/Qrash/saved/3X4ypg

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RRs7oaNm.jpg


As I posted a couple of days ago, I flipped the Corsair SF450 around so that the airflow from the NF-A15 PWM fan on the front half of the side bracket goes right into the power supply. The airflow from this large quite fan feeds the motherboard area, including the NH-U9S CPU cooler. My shortened PCI-E power cable still reaches the connections on the top edge of the Gigabyte GTX 1070 G1 Gaming.

I like to have the cables as tidy as possible, so the two SATA data cables for the 2 TB hard drive and Blu-ray burner are a bit of a disappointment. I moved the case's power cable to the middle position and then folded it into a loop to support the fan splitter and fan extension cables for the CPU cooler and the side bracket fan. The case power cable runs along one edge at the top of the frame and the side fan's cable and extension run along the opposite side at the top of the frame.

The 8-pin motherboard cable helps to hold the case power cable in place as it loops over it to the underside of the motherboard. Then, it is folded 90 degrees twice to run across the top and front edges of the motherboard before emerging just below the power supply to be plugged in. Running this cable in this manner uses its entire length with none to spare.

The 24-pin cable is the worst part of the Corsair SF series of power supplies. It consists of 4 ribbon cables that divide into two groups for the two connectors at the power supply end. It's as weird as it sounds and is a bit stiff. The cable is a bit long for the M1, but I used an old idea to shorten it: I twisted it gently about 4 or 5 times. I laid it down between the motherboard and the power supply and then under the power supply where it is plugged in. Twisting the cable increases the tension in it so that it stays up against the power supply instead of sagging down onto the graphics card.

The SATA power cable was shortened and I soldered onto the end a Slim SATA power connector from my Silverstone PP05-E short cable set. No SATA to Slim SATA adapter for this build!

The front I/O and USB cables are all tucked along the back edge at the bottom of the case and then pass up behind the motherboard to the extension cables I used. It seems contradictory, but extension cables can really tidy up the interior of the M! by permitting you to run cables in more discrete locations.

In the first and last photos, you can see the case feet from MOD-ONE that I installed (some drilling and cutting required) to help the graphics card breathe more easily.

I have no fans on the bottom of the case so far and the fans are all set in BIOS to a Standard profile. So far the system runs very quietly, with the fans only becoming a bit noticeable when under a high load. A quick 5 minute run of Unigine Valley brought the GPU temperature to the high 60s C. Prime 95's Small FFT Torture Test continues to be the hottest running test I've found for the CPU. The temperature climbs and stabilizes in the low 80s C. I have no idea how other air cooling builds have lower temperatures with this extreme, and probably unreasonable, test, even when using the massive NH-C14. I will run some other CPU tests, but I don't think anything else will be as demanding so I'm confident the CPU will stay cool and fairly quiet for my son.
 
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Qrash said:
Hi everyone. I thougth I would post some completed build photos of the M1 I gave to my son for Christmas. He was very surprised and appreciative of his own M1.



As I posted a couple of days ago, I flipped the Corsair SF450 around so that the intake from the NF-A15 PWM an on the front half of the side bracket flows into the power supply as well as feeding the motherboard area, including the NH-U9S CPU cooler. My shortened PCI-E power cable still reaches the connections on the top edge of the Gigabyte GTX 1070 G1 Gaming.

I like to have the cables as tidy as possible, so the two SATA data cables for the 2 TB hard drive and Blu-ray burner are a bit of a disappointment. I moved the case's power cable to the middle position and then folded it into a loop to support the fan splitter and fan extension cables for the CPU cooler and the side bracket fan. The case power cable runs along one edge at the top of the frame and the side fan's cable and extension run along the opposite side at the top of the frame.

The 8-pin motherboard cable helps to hold the case power cable in place as it loops over it to the underside of the motherboard. Then, it is folded 90 degrees twice to run across the top and front edges of the motherboard before emerging just below the power supply to be plugged in.

The 24-pin cable is the worst part of the Corsair SF series of power supplies. It consists of 4 ribbon cables that divide into two groups for the two connectors at the power supply end. Weird, and a bit stiff. The cable is a bit long for the M1, but I used an old idea to shorten it: I rolled it. I twisted the cable gently about 5 times and then laid it down between the motherboard and the power supply and then under the power supply where it is plugged in. Twisting the cable increases the tension in it so that it stays up against the power supply instead of sagging down onto the graphics card.

The SATA power cable was shortened and I soldered onto the end a Slim SATA power connector from my Silverstone PP05-E short cable set. No SATA to Slim SATA adapter for this build!

The front I/O and USB cables are all tucked along the back edge at the bottom of the case and then pass up behind the motherboard to the extension cables I used. It seems contradictory, but extension cables can really tidy up the interior of the M! by permitting you to run cables in more discrete locations.

In the first and last photos, you can see the case feet from MOD-ONE that I installed (some drilling and cutting required) to help the graphics card breath more easily.

I have no fans on the bottom of the case so far and the fans are all set in BIOS to a Standard profile. So far the system runs very quietly, with the fans only becoming a bit noticeable when under a high load. A quick 5 minute run of Unigine Valley brought the GPU temperature to the high 60s C. Prime 95's Small FFT Torture Test continues to be the hottest running test I've found for the CPU. The temperature climbs and stabilizes in the low 80s C. I have no idea how other air cooling builds have lower temperatures with this extreme, and probably unreasonable, test, even when using the massive NH-C14. I will run some other CPU tests, but I don't think anything else will be as demanding so I'm confident the CPU will stay cool and fairly quiet for my son.
Click to expand...

Great tidy build! I feel like I should do a little more cable management after seeing yours ;-)

Are you filtering the sides of the NF-A14 that peed out from the side panel? After 12 months of use I feel I am getting some dust into the case and am wondering if its because of that gap...

And yes, Prime 95 is too hot and unrealistic. Aida64 I think is the real world stress test. Various benchmarking sites also have this opinion.
 
anak85 said:
Great tidy build! I feel like I should do a little more cable management after seeing yours ;-)

Are you filtering the sides of the NF-A14 that peed out from the side panel? After 12 months of use I feel I am getting some dust into the case and am wondering if its because of that gap...

And yes, Prime 95 is too hot and unrealistic. Aida64 I think is the real world stress test. Various benchmarking sites also have this opinion.
Click to expand...

This build is in my old Rev.1 case (who can spot the proof?) and I am using my set of bare aluminum panels (hence the colour of the new feet). I've added the new steel side bracket and magnetic air filter that appeared in the 4th revision of the case. So it's a bit of a mish-mash. I am not filtering the portions of the NF-A15 that peek out around the top and bottom of the side bracket. Maybe the next revision can have a slightly taller side bracket to better accomodate 140 mm fans and radiators, or at least an option to select such a bracket?

Yes, I will run Aida-64 in the next few days to see how the CPU cooling performs. Should I change the fan control in BIOS to off? I might try the tests with all 3 BIOS modes (Disabled, Standard, and Silent) to see if there is any difference. Ideally, I'd run in the Silent mode, so long as throttling doesn' occur. The BIOS fan control should increase the fans to prevent that from happening, right?
 
Qrash said:
Yes, I will run Aida-64 in the next few days to see how the CPU cooling performs. Should I change the fan control in BIOS to off? I might try the tests with all 3 BIOS modes (Disabled, Standard, and Silent) to see if there is any difference. Ideally, I'd run in the Silent mode, so long as throttling doesn' occur. The BIOS fan control should increase the fans to prevent that from happening, right?
Click to expand...
I like setting the fan controls to manual and playing with the results until I am happy with the noise levels. Mine go from 20% idle to 50% roughly at max CPU temp. That gets me 50°C with Aida64 - but you are running the i7 so you'll have a little more. I guess anything around 60-65°C is perfectly fine under full load.

Let me know what your results are - very interested!
 
Qrash said:
Hi everyone. I thougth I would post some completed build photos of the M1 I gave to my son for Christmas. He was very surprised and appreciative of his own M1. Link to the build's parts list: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/Qrash/saved/3X4ypg



As I posted a couple of days ago, I flipped the Corsair SF450 around so that the airflow from the NF-A15 PWM fan on the front half of the side bracket goes right into the power supply. The airflow from this large quite fan feeds the motherboard area, including the NH-U9S CPU cooler. My shortened PCI-E power cable still reaches the connections on the top edge of the Gigabyte GTX 1070 G1 Gaming.

I like to have the cables as tidy as possible, so the two SATA data cables for the 2 TB hard drive and Blu-ray burner are a bit of a disappointment. I moved the case's power cable to the middle position and then folded it into a loop to support the fan splitter and fan extension cables for the CPU cooler and the side bracket fan. The case power cable runs along one edge at the top of the frame and the side fan's cable and extension run along the opposite side at the top of the frame.

The 8-pin motherboard cable helps to hold the case power cable in place as it loops over it to the underside of the motherboard. Then, it is folded 90 degrees twice to run across the top and front edges of the motherboard before emerging just below the power supply to be plugged in. Running this cable in this manner uses its entire length with none to spare.

The 24-pin cable is the worst part of the Corsair SF series of power supplies. It consists of 4 ribbon cables that divide into two groups for the two connectors at the power supply end. It's as weird as it sounds and is a bit stiff. The cable is a bit long for the M1, but I used an old idea to shorten it: I twisted it gently about 4 or 5 times. I laid it down between the motherboard and the power supply and then under the power supply where it is plugged in. Twisting the cable increases the tension in it so that it stays up against the power supply instead of sagging down onto the graphics card.

The SATA power cable was shortened and I soldered onto the end a Slim SATA power connector from my Silverstone PP05-E short cable set. No SATA to Slim SATA adapter for this build!

The front I/O and USB cables are all tucked along the back edge at the bottom of the case and then pass up behind the motherboard to the extension cables I used. It seems contradictory, but extension cables can really tidy up the interior of the M! by permitting you to run cables in more discrete locations.

In the first and last photos, you can see the case feet from MOD-ONE that I installed (some drilling and cutting required) to help the graphics card breathe more easily.

I have no fans on the bottom of the case so far and the fans are all set in BIOS to a Standard profile. So far the system runs very quietly, with the fans only becoming a bit noticeable when under a high load. A quick 5 minute run of Unigine Valley brought the GPU temperature to the high 60s C. Prime 95's Small FFT Torture Test continues to be the hottest running test I've found for the CPU. The temperature climbs and stabilizes in the low 80s C. I have no idea how other air cooling builds have lower temperatures with this extreme, and probably unreasonable, test, even when using the massive NH-C14. I will run some other CPU tests, but I don't think anything else will be as demanding so I'm confident the CPU will stay cool and fairly quiet for my son.
Click to expand...
Wonderful, clean build! Your son must be thrilled. I only hope my build will be be half as tidy when I get to it.
 
Do you have a guide you recommend I follow when overclocking my i5 6600k? It's actually the first time I have built a PC. I'm using the Asus z170i pro gaming.
 
StrawKite said:
Do you have a guide you recommend I follow when overclocking my i5 6600k? It's actually the first time I have built a PC. I'm using the Asus z170i pro gaming.
Click to expand...

I did a quick search for "Skylake Overclocking Guide" and I found a few promising links:


The author of the video in the second item above had some custom settings for using Prime95, which I thought was interesting. Many have posted that Prime95's Small FFT Torture Test is unreasonable, so it might be interesting to see how these custom settings compare to that preset. A popular stability test that many prefer over Prime95 is Aida64's Stress Test. Aida64 can be downloaded for free as a trial version.

This should be enough to get you going. Good luck!
 
StrawKite said:
Do you have a guide you recommend I follow when overclocking my i5 6600k? It's actually the first time I have built a PC. I'm using the Asus z170i pro gaming.
Click to expand...

Qrash said:
I did a quick search for "Skylake Overclocking Guide" and I found a few promising links:


The author of the video in the second item above had some custom settings for using Prime95, which I thought was interesting. Many have posted that Prime95's Small FFT Torture Test is unreasonable, so it might be interesting to see how these custom settings compare to that preset. A popular stability test that many prefer over Prime95 is Aida64's Stress Test. Aida64 can be downloaded for free as a trial version.

This should be enough to get you going. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Simplest thing you'll do with the Z170I Pro Gaming. Just set the multiplier from AUTO to 45. Done!
 
So it looks like they have sold out of black M1's, any idea if there will be another production run?
 
Erasmus354 said:
So it looks like they have sold out of black M1's, any idea if there will be another production run?
Click to expand...
Yes, there will be. Not sure offhand when black will be available, however. Edit: tentative ETA on black cases is shipping in mid-Feb.
 
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I've run into a snag with my son's M1 build and I'm hoping someone here can help. Here's the problem: it doesn't start when I press the front power button briefly, that is, for just a moment (less than a second). The motherboard has power, the fans start to spin, the Corsair SF450 clicks and it all comes to a stop. This happens every time I press briefly on the power button. I have to press and hold the front power button for ~ 3 seconds in order to get "over the hump" and have a successful start up. Still, sometimes even this this doesn't work. While I'm pressing the power button the SF450 makes several clicks, as if it's trying to start (click #1), shuts down (click #2), and then restarts (click #3) because I'm still pressing the power button. It can take several pairs of clicks before the computer actually starts up. I have never seen this in any other computer.

Things I have tried:
  • Take everything outside of the case, eliminate all extra devices (2TB hard drive, Blu-ray burner, NF-A15 fan) and cables (front USB3, front I/O, HD and Power LEDs, all extensions)
  • Removed my shortened SATA power cable from the PS and replaced my shortened PCI-E power cable with the unaltered second cable that comes with the SF450.
  • Replace the GTX 1070 with a known good single slot graphics card Nvidia 7600GT)
  • Add an old 3.5-inch IDE ahrd drive and a 140 mm fan to the PS using the 4-pin Molex cable to make sure there was enough initial load on the power supply
  • Replaced the M1 front panel switch with an old chasis intrusion switch that I keep for troubleshooting
  • Replace the SF450 with the Silverstone SX600-G that powers my M1
Nothing worked to eliminate the need to hold the power switch for 3 seconds. So, should I be worried? Is there a problem with my motherboard (Asus Z170I Pro Gaming with BIOS 2002)? Am I just crazy?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 
Qrash said:
I've run into a snag with my son's M1 build and I'm hoping someone here can help. Here's the problem: it doesn't start when I press the front power button briefly, that is, for just a moment (less than a second). The motherboard has power, the fans start to spin, the Corsair SF450 clicks and it all comes to a stop. This happens every time I press briefly on the power button. I have to press and hold the front power button for ~ 3 seconds in order to get "over the hump" and have a successful start up. Still, sometimes even this this doesn't work. While I'm pressing the power button the SF450 makes several clicks, as if it's trying to start (click #1), shuts down (click #2), and then restarts (click #3) because I'm still pressing the power button. It can take several pairs of clicks before the computer actually starts up. I have never seen this in any other computer.

Things I have tried:
  • Take everything outside of the case, eliminate all extra devices (2TB hard drive, Blu-ray burner, NF-A15 fan) and cables (front USB3, front I/O, HD and Power LEDs, all extensions)
  • Removed my shortened SATA power cable from the PS and replaced my shortened PCI-E power cable with the unaltered second cable that comes with the SF450.
  • Replace the GTX 1070 with a known good single slot graphics card Nvidia 7600GT)
  • Add an old 3.5-inch IDE ahrd drive and a 140 mm fan to the PS using the 4-pin Molex cable to make sure there was enough initial load on the power supply
  • Replaced the M1 front panel switch with an old chasis intrusion switch that I keep for troubleshooting
  • Replace the SF450 with the Silverstone SX600-G that powers my M1
Nothing worked to eliminate the need to hold the power switch for 3 seconds. So, should I be worried? Is there a problem with my motherboard (Asus Z170I Pro Gaming with BIOS 2002)? Am I just crazy?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Click to expand...

Does the system start outside of the case? It's real... um... ghetto, but you could set everything up (i.e. the cardboard case) and boot to see if it works.

The common denominator here seems to be the motherboard - do either of the PSUs boot any other motherboard you have (or, consequently, you could jump the 12v main)? And I'm assuming if you have swapped out the PSU that the SF450 does indeed boot another system normally?
 
Qrash said:
Hi everyone. I thougth I would post some completed build photos of the M1 I gave to my son for Christmas. He was very surprised and appreciative of his own M1. Link to the build's parts list: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/Qrash/saved/3X4ypg

The cable is a bit long for the M1, but I used an old idea to shorten it: I twisted it gently about 4 or 5 times. I laid it down between the motherboard and the power supply and then under the power supply where it is plugged in. Twisting the cable increases the tension in it so that it stays up against the power supply instead of sagging down onto the graphics card.


Qrash, Thank you for the great tip on twisting the cable. I was adding a hard drive to my Silverstone Fortress FTZ01 last night and decided to try this to make the interior look neater. It really worked well for me.
Click to expand...
 
Soooooo...Am I being stupid here...I can't seem to fit the H109i backplate on my z170i

And the answer is YES I AM STUPID. Got It.:LOL:
 
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AWartman said:
I started with a blower 1080 and was getting really bad temps. I had a 1:1 fan curve and was getting around 80 degrees with heaven benchmark. The fan was extremely loud. There have been some reports of people with non-blower cards here getting temps of around 70 with two 120mm fans on the bottom, one rear exhaust and a NHU9s oriented upward to exhaust out the top. I am curently waiting for a STRIX 1080 to try this out, as the founders edition was much to loud for me.
Click to expand...
Can't speak for the 1080 but I have an EVGA 1070 SC overclocked to 2113MHz with a noctua NH-U9S pulling air forwards (towards the PSU) My temperatures peak at ~70C for the GPU and ~65C for the CPU after an overnight run with AIDA/Heaven. my CPU is also overclocked to 4.4GHz @1.2V which doesn't necessarily help... I've always been skeptical of blower style coolers even in SFF PCs, with the larger cards they pretty much exist in their own environment in the M1 though (in my experience) so take that as you will.
 
So it's been years since I've done a build and now I'm confused. The PSU 24 pin cable has two additional connectors. Where does the ten pin go?

And.....what about the EATV 12V connector?

Figured it out....I'm super A.D.D so this is taking everything I have.
 
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Qrash said:
I've run into a snag with my son's M1 build and I'm hoping someone here can help. Here's the problem: it doesn't start when I press the front power button briefly, that is, for just a moment (less than a second). The motherboard has power, the fans start to spin, the Corsair SF450 clicks and it all comes to a stop. This happens every time I press briefly on the power button. I have to press and hold the front power button for ~ 3 seconds in order to get "over the hump" and have a successful start up. Still, sometimes even this this doesn't work. While I'm pressing the power button the SF450 makes several clicks, as if it's trying to start (click #1), shuts down (click #2), and then restarts (click #3) because I'm still pressing the power button. It can take several pairs of clicks before the computer actually starts up. I have never seen this in any other computer.

Things I have tried:
  • Take everything outside of the case, eliminate all extra devices (2TB hard drive, Blu-ray burner, NF-A15 fan) and cables (front USB3, front I/O, HD and Power LEDs, all extensions)
  • Removed my shortened SATA power cable from the PS and replaced my shortened PCI-E power cable with the unaltered second cable that comes with the SF450.
  • Replace the GTX 1070 with a known good single slot graphics card Nvidia 7600GT)
  • Add an old 3.5-inch IDE ahrd drive and a 140 mm fan to the PS using the 4-pin Molex cable to make sure there was enough initial load on the power supply
  • Replaced the M1 front panel switch with an old chasis intrusion switch that I keep for troubleshooting
  • Replace the SF450 with the Silverstone SX600-G that powers my M1
Nothing worked to eliminate the need to hold the power switch for 3 seconds. So, should I be worried? Is there a problem with my motherboard (Asus Z170I Pro Gaming with BIOS 2002)? Am I just crazy?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Click to expand...

Test if it's the switch first of all by using another switch. You can put your other M1 close to it and wire the switch from that.

If the error persists it is not the switch most likely. Next would be to test the PSU and then the mobo...
 
Is running aida64 for half an hour sufficient to determine temps and stability? Ive done this for both silent and full fan speed.
 
StrawKite said:
Is running aida64 for half an hour sufficient to determine temps and stability? Ive done this for both silent and full fan speed.
Click to expand...

Easily. Normally the temperature levels out around 10-15 minutes into testing. What are your temps / fan speeds?

Did you get the OC done? Here I found another screen shot. It is the CPU core ratio that needs setting to 45 LINK
 
StrawKite said:
Is running aida64 for half an hour sufficient to determine temps and stability? Ive done this for both silent and full fan speed.
Click to expand...
Btw, I would stress CPU, FPU, Cash and System memory at the same time. Leave out GPU and the disk. The GPU I would test with Unigine Heaven and the SSD with AS SSD benchmark.
 
Qrash said:
I've run into a snag with my son's M1 build and I'm hoping someone here can help. Here's the problem: it doesn't start when I press the front power button briefly, that is, for just a moment (less than a second). The motherboard has power, the fans start to spin, the Corsair SF450 clicks and it all comes to a stop. This happens every time I press briefly on the power button. I have to press and hold the front power button for ~ 3 seconds in order to get "over the hump" and have a successful start up. Still, sometimes even this this doesn't work. While I'm pressing the power button the SF450 makes several clicks, as if it's trying to start (click #1), shuts down (click #2), and then restarts (click #3) because I'm still pressing the power button. It can take several pairs of clicks before the computer actually starts up. I have never seen this in any other computer.

Things I have tried:
  • Take everything outside of the case, eliminate all extra devices (2TB hard drive, Blu-ray burner, NF-A15 fan) and cables (front USB3, front I/O, HD and Power LEDs, all extensions)
  • Removed my shortened SATA power cable from the PS and replaced my shortened PCI-E power cable with the unaltered second cable that comes with the SF450.
  • Replace the GTX 1070 with a known good single slot graphics card Nvidia 7600GT)
  • Add an old 3.5-inch IDE ahrd drive and a 140 mm fan to the PS using the 4-pin Molex cable to make sure there was enough initial load on the power supply
  • Replaced the M1 front panel switch with an old chasis intrusion switch that I keep for troubleshooting
  • Replace the SF450 with the Silverstone SX600-G that powers my M1
Nothing worked to eliminate the need to hold the power switch for 3 seconds. So, should I be worried? Is there a problem with my motherboard (Asus Z170I Pro Gaming with BIOS 2002)? Am I just crazy?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Click to expand...

Probably not entirely related - But I've noticed that depending on windows and the power move, my computer exhibits something similar to your behavior. Like it want to go in hibernation instead of sleep.
Have you tried taking the motherboard CMOS batt out to clear the memory? Perhaps this might reset any conflicting settings.
 
Chapeau said:
Probably not entirely related - But I've noticed that depending on windows and the power move, my computer exhibits something similar to your behavior. Like it want to go in hibernation instead of sleep.
Have you tried taking the motherboard CMOS batt out to clear the memory? Perhaps this might reset any conflicting settings.
Click to expand...


Thanks everyone for the suggestions. It's been a busy day (tracking down seafood and champagne for our New Year's Eve feast), so there was no progress today.

My plan is to clear the BIOS (jumper the motherboard pins and remove the battery) as well as replace the CPU fan in case low RPMs or poor speed reporting at startup is an issue. Next I will try another power supply (a Seasonic ATX). Also, when I used a different power switch it was plugged into an extension cable so I will try again with it plugged directly into the motherboard.

Unfortunately, I don't have any other DDR4 memory, another Skylake CPU or compatible motherboard to test with.
 
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