It Begins - Stupid GPU AIO Modification

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SO I uh, well the truth is I just want to be [H]ard. So [H]ard it hurts.

All kidding aside I'm bored / curious and it's way past the time where I stop thinking straight.

I've decided to modify my 980 Ti Hybrid with a bigger radiator! Why because? Because, because. Ain't got nothin' better to do. And because.

While yes, I could theoretically do a custom loop which I've been talking about forever, and tried once but failed (fuck Swiftech customizable AIO's), but here and now I have the parts to hack apart some other AIO units and void all of the warranties. So why not! Though this is the USA where everything is perfect land, and if push came to shove they'd need to prove that a capacitor blowing out for instance was due to the different radiator. But whatever! Also a custom loop would be $400 minimum to do it right I think. This is free'ish.

The EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid only comes with a small 120x120 radiator. It's hot as balls here and the small radiator can't even keep up with it being 75F in the room. Once the card hits 60C it throttles down so I can't keep a consistent 1.6ghz. Booooo, I know. No idea why, and I'm not the only one with this issue on this card and EVGA seems to give no fucks. I've tried a custom BIOS. Editing my own BIOS, K-boost - no such luck. So I've gotta cool this bitch down.

Ultimately I'd love a custom loop, but it's nice to have piece of mind with warranties, not that that matters anymore! Woops. The best thing to do would probably be bite the bullet, buy one of EKWB's G2 predators, get a full cover block for the GPU, an extra radiator and call it a day, and in all likelihood this is what will ultimately happen, but until then, we're off to adventure and make mistakes my friends!

I have a spare H100i laying around that's going to donate itself to the cause. Unfortunately the base of the water block / pump that EVGA uses on the 980 Ti Hybrid is different than the H100i. Asetek uses a round cold plate and CoolIT uses a square. So scavenging the radiator seems like the way to go. And yes I could get a Kraken G10, but there are RAM and in particular VRM cooling issues galore with the G10 option that fuck you in other ways. The V2 EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid mid plate is far superior in every way to stick on heatsinks and unfortunately you can't mount both together without it being a huge pain in the ass guestimating with washers, shims and other fuckery so that you don't crack your GPU die. No thanks.

I'm not sure how far along this project will get. I'm going to write and add pictures as I go in chapters and If it starts leading into an area where destroying the GPU or other components gets close, things shall cease and I'll let you know know what the problem is / was. But for now, let's get started! And yes, I have benchmarks prior to the modification.

First things first, harvest the H100i Radiator from the Corsair AIO unit. Snip snip:

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Find some old super high end radiator fluid made of unicorn blood. This is what will go back inside:

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Acquired some extra tubing. I chose to get 5/16" reinforced rubber fuel hose as its chemical resistant and holds 80 PSI. No need for fuel injector grade:

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Got some Brass Couplings that are a bit too tight. They're 3/8 (one size up) to fit snug, and I'll be dipping the new hose in boiling water to slip fit it on the radiator and new fittings. I should clarify I don't plan on completely removing the hoses from the GPU AIO Block. I'm most likely going to cut them and use the aforementioned barbs to link up to the 'new' radiator. Going to give putting the radiator, new hose and barbs on) together first:

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Boil some water to soften the new hose so that it can slip on the new barbs. It should be secure without clamps. But I'm not quite comfortable with that:

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Remove old hose from the donor AIO radiator. It looks like these were slip fit and ultrasonically welded with heatshrink overlaid to tidy things up:

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Looks like the old hose was indeed slip fit. And was not ultrasonicly welded. No clamps. No glue. Nada. Just a good tight fit...:

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I was a bit surprised at the amount of corrosion / residue. Cleaned up the barbs on the radiator above and slip fit on some new hose using hot water. Heating both the hose end and barbs on the radiator was necessary:

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Yeah that's my middle finger blocking out the serial number you fuckers :woot:

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It really doesn't look like the hoses need clamps. But safety first. As is I cannot remove them, just like the stock hoses without cutting them off. I've cut them to a length of 15" for now which should give some room to work with when positioning the new radiator. Come to think of it, I suppose I could even keep the original 120x120 mounted. And tap in to it. I think it'd need an additional pump though and scavenging more H100i parts would be ridiculous:

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Boiled the double ended barbs in water along with the ends of the hoses now connected to the donor radiator and pressed them in. Same snug fit as earlier:

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Check out my new big black hose and nipples:

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That's all for the work for tonight! It's going on after 4 AM. Depending how bold I get tomorrow I might hook up the GPU. So far so good. Haven't hit any "Danger Will Robinson" snags or broken anything as of yet :ROFLMAO:





Ahh it's nice to have spares to fuck around with.

Thoughts? Ideas?
 
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I'm curious how you plan on filling and reaching prime with it!
 
I still don't get why people think a custom loop is so damn difficult. Take block, add pump and radiator. Either put a T-line in or a res for filling. I suspect the difference in performance between a half ass-edly thrown together loop and an internet approved perfect loop would only be a few degrees anyways.
 
I still don't get why people think a custom loop is so damn difficult. Take block, add pump and radiator. Either put a T-line in or a res for filling. I suspect the difference in performance between a haphazardly thrown together loop and an internet approved perfect loop would only be a few degrees anyways.
 
What the hell's the matter with you?

A lot of things. But in this case I'm bored and curious as I explained.

This is great!! Let us know how it all works out...

Haha, we shall see! Been needing to go to the Industrial Hardware Store anyways. Going to see if they have any nifty clamps or other things for this experiment.

So...Even I know that there is a subforum for watercooling. Might could this be moved there?

Genmay's a better crowd in my opinion. I used to think the same when people would post stuff here that belonged in a subforum as it has one. Even asked for some threads to me. And it was pointed out to me that outside of the GenMay rules you can pretty much post whatever you want in here. It's sort of it's own sub community of sorts. And it's great. The thing is is that a lot of forums these days are just full of a bunch of boners that call you a dumbassed fag for trying anything different or anything that doesn't align with their beliefs to a T - All just because you have a different opinion or heck maybe just extra parts / money and want to play around with some stuff! The great thing about GenMay is that though there is a ton of joshing going on, it's well meaning and playful.

This project really isn't something worthy of the Watercooling Forum in my opinion. It's not a serious go. It's just for kicks to see what I can do with what I've got on hand. There are absolutely better ways to go about this.

I still don't get why people think a custom loop is so damn difficult. Take block, add pump and radiator. Either put a T-line in or a res for filling. I suspect the difference in performance between a half ass-edly thrown together loop and an internet approved perfect loop would only be a few degrees anyways.

I just happen to have lots of extra AIO's and fans sitting around. Might as well put them to use. In the light of this being a not so serious go at solving the problem, and I don't want other people to get the idea that it's the way to go about things. It's not and they could end up over their heads pretty quick. For me, It's just something fun to do this weekend!

So to wrap it up, it's simple for fun. The last couple of full custom loops that I attempted had manufacturing defects with the pump DOA on one and the other there was debris stuck in the fins. Some day I'll do it right. This weekend's just about fun and seeing what I can do with the resources at hand :)

The CPU is doing great on the 280 AIO it's under. The AIO for the GPU just isn't cutting it though. It'd be great if NVIDIA and ATI / RTG / Whatever it is this week create a standard so that people could plug in AIO's directly as an option just like we have CPU's now and somehow loop in better cooling for VRM's RAM and other hot chips that need to be actively cooled. FinFET has helped, but it's just going to ramp back up.

I'm not even sure if water cooling would do much for this rig. As is I can sit at 1.6ghz for a while depending on the room temperature. I doubt I could do 1.7 on this Hybrid Air + water cooler. I hoinestly thik all that the GPU AIO needs is more surface area. I've got a sport to mount the 240 in the bottom of the 750D where it could collect cool air. Though I'm not liking the idea of passing scorching air through the case haha

Time to hit the Industrial Store for some fancy clamps!


beep beep boop nadda wadda

Did you mean to say something? Am I getting the silent treatment? :(
 
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You posted the same picture twice. I think the second picture is supposed to be a pic of the barbs, or something.
 
You posted the same picture twice. I think the second picture is supposed to be a pic of the barbs, or something.

Fixed! Thanks for the heads up.

Doesn't look like this will get finished until next week. Life got in the way and I'm going on 40 hours of no sleep. Time for a nap.

Then off the wife's parents. Ugh.

Must. Find. Hotel.
 
So I'm unsure if I want to proceed with this. EKWB now has a R2 of their AIO that just released and I'm just not sure that all of this is worth it. Most of the work is done. I just need to plug in the GPU hoses at this point.

The idea of an EKWB full cover block for my 980 Ti that's prefilled in conjunction with quick disconnects on the EKWB Predator 2, it's damn tempting.

Only trouble is I'd need another radiator and with that in mind we're still looking at $400 US. Yeah it can be had cheaper all said and done but I'd much prefer something that I can work with and modify over the coming years, swap out GPU / CPU blocks as necessary. It'd be a lot more simple.

While this is a fun little project. And I'm pretty darn good at getting stuff like this sorted to be issue free, I'm kind of losing the entire benefit of the system being cheap, maintenance free and has a warranty. I have other computers but frying a 980 Ti isn't exactly chump change. While doubt this will happen, maybe I'd be better off selling extra parts and giving a semi custom full system loop another try.
 
Looking through things some more and it looks as though in this instance since the AIO units are separate, having the GPU AIO as tip Exhaust will be the most beneficial and won't nuke the other components.

This evening I l
ightly dusted the case, cleaned fan filters and fans in preparation for case disassembly.

I then removed and cleaned the front fans and moved the 280 CPU AIO from top exhaust to front intake.

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Interestingly there are only about 3.75 ounces of fluid in an EVGA Hybrid AIO. Though to be fair, you've always been able to hear quite a bit of slosh in my EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid.

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Some bad news, the barbs for the EVGA AIO / radiator are MUCH smaller than the donor Corsair H100i. By a lot. The corsair tubing appears to be 3/8 inner diameter and the EVGA tubing is only about 1/4 or 5/16. I'm going to have to pick up a couple of adapters. No wonder this EVGA AIO sucks.

I'm going to do some thinking as I mentioned in the previous post but given the additional information now having dived deeper, the limp tube size might be indicative of very weak pump. It's likely that it wouldn't be able to push coolant through the 240 and at that it may not be able to do it at much of a flow rate.

I might give it a whirl, might not. I suppose that I could utilize the H100i plumbed in somewhere but that's moving beyond what's remotely reasonable. Not that any of this was beyond an experiment.
 
I wanted to do something similar (actually plumb a h100i on my cpu and a h75 on my gpu together into a single loop to share rad space) but ended up buying a bunch of used watercooling gear and am now building a custom case to fit all the radiators I don't really need... So, watch out - it's a slippery slope here.
On another note - i have rebuilt an aio and refilled it, the easiest way was to actually drill a hole in the radiator top to add a fill port. I used a screw with an o-ring to seal it. Had to flush all the crap from the radiator first, though.
 
I wanted to do something similar (actually plumb a h100i on my cpu and a h75 on my gpu together into a single loop to share rad space) but ended up buying a bunch of used watercooling gear and am now building a custom case to fit all the radiators I don't really need... So, watch out - it's a slippery slope here.
On another note - i have rebuilt an aio and refilled it, the easiest way was to actually drill a hole in the radiator top to add a fill port. I used a screw with an o-ring to seal it. Had to flush all the crap from the radiator first, though.

I was going to recirculate it and connect the barbs underwater.
 
I was going to recirculate it and connect the barbs underwater.
that will be the easiest way for what youre doing. as long as an aio's pump isn't dead they are really quite easy to refurb/repurpose!
re low pump speed/flow; you could do a bucket test to see what the flow is like. it might be fine. i'd try it anyways and then address it if need be. it will be very easy to tell if its not adequate!

ps: I love shit like this keep going!
 
I was going to recirculate it and connect the barbs underwater.
That's a possibility, another way is to remove the bottom plate on the pump/heatsink and fill it up through there. But I couldn't fill it 100% full, without any air, so resorted to adding a fillport.
 
that will be the easiest way for what youre doing. as long as an aio's pump isn't dead they are really quite easy to refurb/repurpose!
re low pump speed/flow; you could do a bucket test to see what the flow is like. it might be fine. i'd try it anyways and then address it if need be. it will be very easy to tell if its not adequate!

ps: I love shit like this keep going!

That's a possibility, another way is to remove the bottom plate on the pump/heatsink and fill it up through there. But I couldn't fill it 100% full, without any air, so resorted to adding a fillport.


Unfortunately one of the hoses pulled out from the GPU AIO waterblock. Some flimsy tab the thickness of construction paper was holding it in. Kinda pissed and annoyed. No you shouldn't be doing this, but paying an extra $150 for a Hybrid I'd expect better quality.

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All that was holding the Hybrid AIO hoses in:

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The hoses can go back in, but holding them in is the problem. They need pressure to maintain a seal. I'm trying to think what I have around to fix it. Glue isn't really an option. Perhaps some kind of collar is though.

For now the system is down. I'm thinking about asking / looking around for a stock 980 Ti blower as the hybrid uses the stock layout, it probably can't use an atmospheric style and at that they're probably harder to find.

Going to save up, buy an EK kit, a 980 Ti Waterblock, and do things the way I'd been planning.

Time to sell some stuff!

In the interim, if anyone has or knows of someone with a spare 980 Ti blower fan please reach out.
 
as a solution i would try to find slightly biger o rings push them in and then use plasitc epoxy to make sure they stay
 
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as a solution i would try to find slightly biger o rings push them in and then use plasitc epoxy to make sure they stay
^^This, but I think it should stay just fine with two slightly larger OD orings, no glue required. Of course, for piece of mind, it doesn't hurt. Just make sure it's rotated how you like before gluing in place.
 
It's usually very difficult to find just slitghtly larger o-rings. The way those things are built they may crack if you use too much force.
I suggest you take the thing apart - it's usually a thin plastic shim holding the hoses in. It should be possible to cut a piece of plastic form a dvd case or something and use that. No glue ot anything like that.
 
It's usually very difficult to find just slitghtly larger o-rings. The way those things are built they may crack if you use too much force.
I suggest you take the thing apart - it's usually a thin plastic shim holding the hoses in. It should be possible to cut a piece of plastic form a dvd case or something and use that. No glue ot anything like that.

Precisely. Orings are pretty much same same spec wise.

That shim design is fucking stupid. Shit engineering marvel.

I ghetto rigged it for now and got it working. Got everything flushed thoroughly and the performance of isn't that great. It's up maybe 15C from the prior setup. My guess is that the pump just doesn't have enough power to get enough water through the system.

For now I'm going to switch to a blower style air cooler and save up for a loop. I like the idea of the EKWB Predator, but I've heard the pump is a bit weak. Maybe someone around here will throw up some good used parts for a deal!
 
Whenever you get it going I would at the very least dilute the antifreeze as you really only need enough to prevent stuff from growing and for pump lubrication.

The component in antifreeze (usually glycol) the lowers the freezing temperature also reduces cooling performance. And really, yo don't even need it at all for lubrication for a PC cooling pump. You really just need something to keep stuff from growing in the loop.

And if you want to increase the heat transfer even more, you can get some Water Wetter. It reduces the amount of water tension so that the water will have a greater contact area with the waterblock and the radiator tubes.
 
Use dIstilled water and a few drops of iodine. Don't use antifreeze, water wetter or any of that stuff. Contact area is already 100% if there is no air trapped in the block/loop.
 
Whenever you get it going I would at the very least dilute the antifreeze as you really only need enough to prevent stuff from growing and for pump lubrication.

The component in antifreeze (usually glycol) the lowers the freezing temperature also reduces cooling performance. And really, yo don't even need it at all for lubrication for a PC cooling pump. You really just need something to keep stuff from growing in the loop.

And if you want to increase the heat transfer even more, you can get some Water Wetter. It reduces the amount of water tension so that the water will have a greater contact area with the waterblock and the radiator tubes.

Good to know. I wanted to use this since I was adding some mixed metals (brass) in this case to aluminum. The coolant that I have isn't quite antifreeze and comes premixed! It's pretty similar to antifreeze but it's some kind of crazy stuff from Toyota.

Use dIstilled water and a few drops of iodine. Don't use antifreeze, water wetter or any of that stuff. Contact area is already 100% if there is no air trapped in the block/loop.

Good point. I used to race motorcycles and we'd use distilled water and water wetter. That gets you the most performance + anti-growth. In this instance I was a little concerned about the mixed metals - adding brass because I needed to step down and up form 3/8" to 1/4".

You are right that the performance of water or mostly water would be better. I've seen some tests and the right ratio of water + water wetter usually comes out ahead. I don't think that it'd be a 15 C difference like I was seeing here though. I checked the flow and it was, so so. Not great but enough. Full loop time once I sell some of these extra cases, video cards and what not's.

Overall. Fun experiment. Don't waste your time. Find a way to buy used or old water cooling parts if you must.
 
And we're back with Round 2!

Changed cases, swapped some fans around, moved the existing 280 CPU AIO to the front, and placed 140 Intake Fans on the bottom to feed the new 140 GPU AIO.

The new AIO for the GPU is a modified Corsair H90 which is an Asetek based unit. The hoses are a bit short. Supposedly the NZXT X40 / X41 is the same Asetek unit with longer hoses, but in this case shorter hoses worked out better. The hoses make a short level 180° bend to the radiator which sits just below the video card. The short length of the hoses and soft level bend should keep the coolant flow rate up.

This particular Asetek version of the AIO is important to utilize as it's the same one as far as I can tell used by the EVGA Hybrid and lets you use its mounting mechanism and cold plate. Later generations of Asetek AIO's have different pump and jet internals. Utilizing the cold plate from the EVGA Hybrid is important as it has a protrusion with a flat face that allows for direct mounting to the bare GPU die without extra layers of shims and thermal paste which would decrease cooling performance. Most AIO cooling units are convex meant for CPU heat spreaders and thus won't make perfect contact with a bare die like that on a GPU leading to poor cooling performance. So the Hybrid cold plate is ideal.

Swapping the cold plate isn't easy. You need to turn the block upside down so that coolant doesn't get out and the screws are made of butter. Even firm pressure with a correct sized screw driver gets the job done and with the parts swapped and bracket mounted I routed everything in. I left the shroud off of the GPU as I have more than enough airflow to keep things in check. In fact, if anything the shroud was probably hampering cooling.

By switching over to the H90 we're moving from a 120 radiator to a 140! This means more surface area, more coolant capacity and more air flow with less noise due to bigger better fans.

With all of that said and done, cooling performance has improved a lot. Overclocked to 1,572 Mhz, Idle temperatures are down to 33°C from 40, MSI Afterburner based Kombuster went down to 53°C from 70, and load temperatures in The Division went down to 50°C from 70-80.


Finished Product Pictures:


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