Samsung UN40KU6300 40-Inch 4K

It looks like the 40" is going to be $290 at Costco starting Nov. 18. It looks like this years model, but they are not showing model numbers in the leaked ads.
Indeed. Go to Costco Black Friday deals page, click on "Starts November 18" and there is a Samsung 40” 4K TV a little bit down the page for $289.99. Model isn't listed but by the picture definitely seems to be KU6300 or KU6290.
 
$289 is a crazy price. I was happy to have paid $499, and I didn't buy it all that long ago.
 
Got the 6290 for $305 shipped with the PC Richard link from earlier + $25 off coupon. Set it up on a wall mount yesterday to use as my monitor, damn this thing is big! Really impressed with the image quality so far, took me a while to figure out how to get 4K 60Hz working.

I actually found this thread looking for some info on Google, I'll go back and read everything now :)
 
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I have read from some people - and Amazon reviews - that whenever the KU6300 is turned off it tends to forget the source it was displaying last. I don't want to have to reselect the source every single day. Are you guys having any such problems? This may be a deciding factor this Black Friday (frankly I'd rather buy a cheap 29" ultrawide if there's good discounts and wait until HDR is awesome on $500 TVs in a couple years).
 
I have read from some people - and Amazon reviews - that whenever the KU6300 is turned off it tends to forget the source it was displaying last. I don't want to have to reselect the source every single day. Are you guys having any such problems? This may be a deciding factor this Black Friday (frankly I'd rather buy a cheap 29" ultrawide if there's good discounts and wait until HDR is awesome on $500 TVs in a couple years).

I wonder if something like this might happen if the user has multiple HDMI CEC devices attached and some don't play nicely. I've seen this on a couple TVs and a Fire TV was at fault (since apparently it always outputs a black frame, even when it's "off").
 
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The TV should remember the last input. After I got everything setup right, I didn't have mess with the settings and everything was fine. When I got my UHD player, I did have to tweak the settings again after unplugging and switching ports, but it was only a one time deal.

If I stay using my PC, it will stay on the same input. The trick is to select DVI for the input to get the PC settings (the name, I think, doesn't matter as long as it's DVI). I also have my UHD BD player, and the TV is smart enough to know when I turn it on and automatically switches inputs.
 
I browsed this thread real quick, but didn't see an answer.

Is there any way to get this TV to wake up after it shuts off after the PC sleeps? This is the first time I'm using a TV as a monitor and it's really annoying to have to use the remote everytime I sit down at the PC to turn the monitor on.
 
I browsed this thread real quick, but didn't see an answer.

Is there any way to get this TV to wake up after it shuts off after the PC sleeps? This is the first time I'm using a TV as a monitor and it's really annoying to have to use the remote everytime I sit down at the PC to turn the monitor on.
GPU's typically don't support CEC over HDMI which could be used to turn the TV on, and I'm fairly certain the KU6300 doesn't support wake on signal detection. So there doesn't seem to be a way to wake the TV automatically from what I can see. The TV does at least turn itself off after a short while if no signal detected.
 
OK, at least if the KU6300 remembers the last source used that's good - I mean, my 7 year old 40LNA550 can do that. Honestly though, I'm getting quite annoyed the more and more I read about the HDR situation. I think I might just buy an LG 29UM68 ultrawide with Freesync support and an RX 480 - it'll cost me about the same as one GTX1070 and I can just buy HDR in 2 years or so when things are finally figured out. It doesn't have to be this way, there's no reason we should have the mess we have right now in the market. There could already be HDR monitors in the market for $1K just like there are TVs. Manufacturers are making a mess of things, as usual.
 
Yeah this HDR thing is a mess since manufacturers are already throwing faux HDR onto TVs like these KU6300s.
 
Sort of par for the course, as expected. HD and 3D had similar fiascoes.

My first flat screen TV was a Samsung 32"er. Marketed as HD, but it was only 720P. And then, it wasn't really 720P (1280x720) but something like 1366x768. Which caused some odd scaling issues with certain devices.

Or like when 3D first became big. There were a bunch of projectors claiming 3D support. Except, there was no HDMI 3D standard yet, so there was no way to drive the projectors with any sort content. So while the screen was technically 3D, there was not a single piece of content you could run on it.

Or how about all the TVs claiming 120Hz or 240Hz refresh rates when they can only accept a 60Hz signal? TV manufacturers love to market BS.
 
The 6300 is now $335 at Samsung EPP. If you have Discover you can get 10% back and if you have double cashback with Discover (new cardholders for first year) it's 20%. Drops price to $268+ tax for the 6300 if you have EPP and 20% cashback.
 
Sort of par for the course, as expected. HD and 3D had similar fiascoes.

My first flat screen TV was a Samsung 32"er. Marketed as HD, but it was only 720P. And then, it wasn't really 720P (1280x720) but something like 1366x768. Which caused some odd scaling issues with certain devices.

Or like when 3D first became big. There were a bunch of projectors claiming 3D support. Except, there was no HDMI 3D standard yet, so there was no way to drive the projectors with any sort content. So while the screen was technically 3D, there was not a single piece of content you could run on it.

Or how about all the TVs claiming 120Hz or 240Hz refresh rates when they can only accept a 60Hz signal? TV manufacturers love to market BS.
720p is HD
 
Even most HDR certified screens use cheats to get the certificate.
To get it for peak brightness, they need to be able to display the standardized L20 test window with a peak brightness of at least 1000cd/m².
So what do they do? They can hold this peak brightness for 3 seconds or so, then they drop to below 600cd/m². And since they were optimized for the test screen, in the actual HDR footage they mostly sit around 500-700cd/m² in practice, often never reaching the 1000cd/m² target at all.
But they still get the certificate.
Especially the edge lit Televisions appear to be artificially restricted in their brightness potential, probably to prevent the black levels from washing out too much when the backlight is set to maximum brightness. (even a 5000:1 VA panel will produce a 0.2cd/m² black at 1000cd/m²)
The 2 or 3 FALD flagship TVs available now that can sustain the proper high brightness cost more than many of the OLED panels.
 
Knew someone would go for that. Yes, I know, but there was a lot of confusion at the time as to what HD meant and the difference between 1080P and 720P.


At the time, the choice was 720p and 1080i. 720p was better for sports, worse for thing with less motion.
 
"Buying an HDR screen for gaming is a bit of a minefield at the moment, and getting a game-changing experience from HDR seems to scale in line with the amount of money you're willing to pay."

That's from Digital Foundry today in their PS4 Pro review. Seems to confirm what I've been thinking: for proper HDR, wait a couple years until all the dust settles. The KU6300 tempts me, but I think I'll go try cheap ultrawide + freesync if only just for the sake of change.
 
"Buying an HDR screen for gaming is a bit of a minefield at the moment, and getting a game-changing experience from HDR seems to scale in line with the amount of money you're willing to pay."

That's from Digital Foundry today in their PS4 Pro review. Seems to confirm what I've been thinking: for proper HDR, wait a couple years until all the dust settles. The KU6300 tempts me, but I think I'll go try cheap ultrawide + freesync if only just for the sake of change.

HDR will be like 3D. The dust won't settle, companies will find the absolute cheapest way to fake implementing the feature and HDR's effectiveness will be diluted to nothing. Average Joe consumers won't understand how to setup their source and display to accurately display HDR content, however they will think they are looking at HDR anyway. Sort of like how a lot of people get surround speakers and then sit on a side wall so they end up with zero actual surround... HDR will end up as a near meaningless bullet point on the back of Blu Ray cases.

I presume almost no one is buying this TV because it is HDR capable, they are buying it to get a large + good quality + 4K + Chroma 4:4:4 + 60 FPS display. I've been looking for a good 1440P monitor for a while, super glad I jumped on this instead! Took me less than two days to adjust to it, now I can't imagine gaming on something smaller, ha!
 
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What would be the optimal settings for 4:4:4 4k @ 60FPS? Just disabling Gaming / HDR+ modes? Or do I need to enable something else entirely? I'm currently using HDMI port 1.
 
HDR will be like 3D. The dust won't settle, companies will find the absolute cheapest way to fake implementing the feature and HDR's effectiveness will be diluted to nothing. Average Joe consumers won't understand how to setup their source and display to accurately display HDR content, however they will think they are looking at HDR anyway. Sort of like how a lot of people get surround speakers and then sit on a side wall so they end up with zero actual surround... HDR will end up as a near meaningless bullet point on the back of Blu Ray cases.

I don't know, to me this is like the 720 vs 1080 resolution thing that cybereality was pointing at. I think HDR is an actual, real advancement in a way that 3d never was, so it will become mainstream. At some point in a few years, all TVs will be HDR and there won't be a stupid mode this or mode that to enable it. All modes will be HDR and the TV will display HDR/SDR depending on what signal it is sent (HDR is in fact a "bigger" space than SDR, so the latter can be included in the former). I think until then I'm not going to waste time/money on HDR. I've been an early adopter in my teens and 20s. I think getting to my 30s has made me more patient/cynical (that and having a mortgage to pay :) ).
 
3D is a gimmick that appeals to a small audience. it is not something the vast majority of people (if any) want on at all times. it's nice for a movie or two. HDR is a technological advancement that will be present in every set and all media within 10 years. if you get a chance, stop at a high end home theater store or Best Buy with Magnolia. check out one of the $5k to $10k OLED's with HDR.
 
No need for $5K sets, check LG's B6 55" Oled for 2.5K and you'll be just as amazed. I haven't seen a screen with such clarity, ever.
 
Having trouble getting a RX 480 to output 4:4:4 on this TV. I've changed the input name to PC, and made sure to set the required menu settings and cannot get the TV to pass any 4:4:4 pattern tests. I've tried 30 and 60hz, and I'm using a UHD HDMI cable.
 
Having trouble getting a RX 480 to output 4:4:4 on this TV. I've changed the input name to PC, and made sure to set the required menu settings and cannot get the TV to pass any 4:4:4 pattern tests. I've tried 30 and 60hz, and I'm using a UHD HDMI cable.
You need to enable UHD color for HDMI1 in the TVs menu as well.
 
$377 on Amazon today, and thanks to Bing rewards I have accumulated $75 on gift card money... Right now it'd cost me the same as the 29UM68. I'd lose freesync but gain 4K. Must... wait... for... black... friday... T-13 days...
 
I've done that also. :\

If you're using:

1) correct HDMI (high speed) cable
2) HDMI 1
3) Input name changed to PC
4) UHD color enabled

Then you're doing everything correctly. Maybe some setting wrong in the AMD Crimson control panel?
 
I've done that also. :\

Check out the AMD settings and and try another cable. You need a good 18Gbps cable for 4K 4:4:4 @60hz, some cable don't have the bandwidth for it even if they claim support.
 
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You can't do 4:4:4 with Game Mode. Make sure Game Mode is disabled.

Also, I found selecting the input name of DVI works better than PC.
 
I live in Mexico and picked up the 40" last week from Costco. It is labeled as UN40KU6000FXZX.
I am coming from a 2014 LG 43" 3d IPS that I woke up to with about 3 corrupt lines of pixels running the width of the screen about two inches from the top which would change all sorts of colors and constantly blink in and out.

I wasn't keen on the IPS panel over VA but wanted the passive 3d after watching Avatar at a friends house and loved it.
So after trying to clean all the ribbons inside the LG to no avail I went that afternoon and bought this Samsung. These are the blacks I never could have dreamed of getting from the IPS. That IPS glow always bugged the s#!t out of me but I was hoping to ride it out for a couple of more years until 40" range OLED or QD with 3d made it to the shelves (I'm limited in tv space). Now 3d is dead except on the super high dollar sets. Such is life.

I use this KU6000 as a monitor/HTPC through HDMI 1 / PC with a DP to HDMI 2.0 active dongle (R9380X) ,Windows 10 utilizing madVR in potPlayer. Everything looks great with tv settings of 6-42-98-60 with UHD color enabled and HDMI Black Level set to normal. I downloaded a beautiful UHD Demo and paused it at a certain point that had a bright outdoor patio and large double door opened to a darker indoor scene. I found the NORMAL setting on HDMI Black Level didn't wash out detail as the two other options while still maintaining a great contrast. (Just my preference).

I game a bit and have ROTTR and The Witcher 3 installed and tested both these games and found no lag problems whatsoever for these type of games. The difference I did see was the comparison to the 1080p LG IPS. I push my R9380X to play at 1440p on these two games (using Super Resolution on the LG) to maintain good frames and this VA panel blows the IPS out of the water on contrast. The color difference is probably minimal but with such a contrast difference it truly makes everything "pop" more.

I also transferred the UHD Demo to a thumb drive to check out what it looked like "raw" and it looked fantastic. The Auto Motion Plus worked as advertised, and looked strikingly like SVP (Smooth Video Project) for pc. Interpolation to the max.

I paid the equivalent of $435 U.S. for this set, and though I'll miss gaming and watching movies in 3d for a while, hopefully, I must say......I have no regrets buying this set.
 
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You can't do 4:4:4 with Game Mode. Make sure Game Mode is disabled.

Also, I found selecting the input name of DVI works better than PC.


Bought another HDMI cable, making sure to pick one that was rated for 18Gbps, made sure Game Mode was disabled and UHD HDMI colors were enabled and I'm still unable to pass a 4:4:4 chroma test.. My next test is going to be using a DP > HDMI 2.0a active dongle and seeing if I can get it that way.
 
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This is quite strange. You seem to be doing everything right. Have you checked that the resolution is indeed set to 3840x2160 (not 4096x2160) and at either 60hz or 59hz? These tiny details sometimes can make a difference.

That said, I have a question for you - is the lack of 4:4:4 super noticeable, given the sheer pixel density? I'm sure it's there but I'm wondering if reading text is made difficult as it would be in a 1080p panel, or if the 4K density of the panel helps matters.

Good luck.
 
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as euskalzabe mentioned, double check and make sure you are on 60hz and not 59. after an Nvidia driver update mine went to 59 and i lost 4:4:4 and UHD color. also had horrible mouse lag. changing back to 60 resolved everything.
 
This is quite strange. You seem to be doing everything right. Have you checked that the resolution is indeed set to 3829x2160 (not 4096x2160) and at either 60hz or 59hz? These tiny details sometimes can make a difference.

That said, I have a question for you - is the lack of 4:4:4 super noticeable, given the sheer pixel density? I'm sure it's there but I'm wondering if reading text is made difficult as it would be in a 1080p panel, or if the 4K density of the panel helps matters.

Good luck.

It looks like complete shit on small text. Large text is fine.
 
Hahaha... I feel your pain buddy. While you try to fix it, have you tried to scale to %150? Maybe that would "mask" the problem a bit as text wouldn't be 1:1.
 
Bought another HDMI cable, making sure to pick one that was rated for 18Gbps, made sure Game Mode was disabled and UHD HDMI colors were enabled and I'm still unable to pass a 4:4:4 chroma test.. My next test is going to be using a DP > HDMI 2.0a active dongle and seeing if I can get it that way.

Can you select YCrBr444 instead of trying to use RGB colors? If that is even an option in the AMD control panel?

Also once my TV is up and running 4K 444, I don't even have the Option of Game Mode, it's just.
 
This is quite strange. You seem to be doing everything right. Have you checked that the resolution is indeed set to 3829x2160 (not 4096x2160) and at either 60hz or 59hz? These tiny details sometimes can make a difference.

That said, I have a question for you - is the lack of 4:4:4 super noticeable, given the sheer pixel density? I'm sure it's there but I'm wondering if reading text is made difficult as it would be in a 1080p panel, or if the 4K density of the panel helps matters.

Good luck.
Small text looks like shit.

Can you select YCrBr444 instead of trying to use RGB colors? If that is even an option in the AMD control panel?

Also once my TV is up and running 4K 444, I don't even have the Option of Game Mode, it's just.

YCrBr444 is available, but it doesn't change anything. I'll make sure to check and see which refresh rate it's set to when I get home.
 
Confirmed: Samsung's Black Friday deals page says that the 40KU6300 will cost $350 on 11/20. The 40KU6290 will cost $300, so that may be an even better option considering they're pretty much the same TV sans some connectivity features.

Unless the ultrawides receive an equally decent discount on Black Friday, at those prices these TVs are a no brainer, although I hope these prices are reflected on Amazon on 11/20 (I don't trust Samsung with my credit card info).

This should hold well for a couple years until the HDR mess has fully settled down.
 
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