24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

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So I just bought a Z170 board that has an on-board COM port to wire up an external COM connector. Is it possible for me to run WinDAS with this thing and Windows 10 64-bit with my WinDAS COM cable?
 
so I have these two little veritcal line running across the fw900, thier barely visable any idea on how to make them go away?
 
aeliusg said:
By WinDAS COM cable do you mean a legit Sony service part?
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Don't know, the user Hurin on this forum sent it to me, said he used for WinDAS. I've yet to try it though, just got my Monaco calorimeter also. How do you tell if it is an original part? And why would it make a difference?
 
The WinDAS floating around that most people are using was cracked to work without the Sony ECS cable which is a COM cable with a special TTL chip. I was wondering if that's what you meant by COM cable, but it sounds like you probably have a regular USB-TTL cable. In that case you don't need to mess around with anything on your PC motherboard.
 
aeliusg said:
The WinDAS floating around that most people are using was cracked to work without the Sony ECS cable which is a COM cable with a special TTL chip. I was wondering if that's what you meant by COM cable, but it sounds like you probably have a regular USB-TTL cable. In that case you don't need to mess around with anything on your PC motherboard.
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I have a cable that hooks up to a COM port, not USB. No clue if it has the chip though, I haven't examined it very closely. I'll take a picture of it later.
 
aeliusg said:
Vertical? You don't mean the horizontal Trinitron grille wires, right?
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i mean horizontal, and no its toward the middle of the screen, they are barely visable and very hard to see, its almost as if its a scanline, there is two of themand its not the stabilizing wires, i dont think.
 
Mumble said:
i mean horizontal, and no its toward the middle of the screen, they are barely visable and very hard to see, its almost as if its a scanline, there is two of themand its not the stabilizing wires, i dont think.
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Can you spot the stabilizing wires, then? They're about 1/3 and 2/3 of the way up the screen.
 
wait I though the stabilizing wires were at the top and bottom? they barely visable, one is about 2 to 3 inches down from the top bezel from the Trinitron logo, and the other one is about 5 to 6 inches from the bottom of the screen.
 
Mumble said:
wait I though the stabilizing wires were at the top and bottom? they barely visable, one is about 2 to 3 inches down from the top bezel from the Trinitron logo, and the other one is about 5 to 6 inches from the bottom of the screen.
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Sounds about right. They're there to hold the aperture grille together at the middle.
 
so I know this really isnt the place but I posted my "anti-glare" box, and has turned into either a new meme/art/something. Im proud of this but I couldnt have done it without my shitposters at "The lounge" at tek syndicate. but it has evolved.
 

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I wonder if there is a low latency converter to hook up component cables devices. i'd be interesting to see how consoles look on one of these.
 
cdoublejj said:
I wonder if there is a low latency converter to hook up component cables devices. i'd be interesting to see how consoles look on one of these.
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There are lots out there, and they're zero latency. Audio Authority made a few models and called them "Component to RGB" converters. Crescendo Systems' RTC2200 is considered the best transcoder.

The results are fantastic, looks better than most TFT screens, though the picture can be a little dark because there are scan lines on most PC monitors at low resolutions like 480p. There is a product currently in development called the "Open Source Scan Converter" that may allow you to line-double 480p to 960p, which would eliminate scanlines.
 
SO boys I have bad news and good news, Goods news I sold both my fw900's for profit and won a 480GB SSD with them at the lan party, bad news after I got them and starting playing on them, dont get me wrong I loved them. However they were causing me to have migraines, and I could see still the flicker at 95 hertz, and cause my eye to strain pretty bad. I havnt used a CRT since I was a kid but Doesnt seem like they agree with me now. Theyre great, its just a shame they were hurting my eyes and head.
 
Mumble said:
SO boys I have bad news and good news, Goods news I sold both my fw900's for profit and won a 480GB SSD with them at the lan party, bad news after I got them and starting playing on them, dont get me wrong I loved them. However they were causing me to have migraines, and I could see still the flicker at 95 hertz, and cause my eye to strain pretty bad. I havnt used a CRT since I was a kid but Doesnt seem like they agree with me now. Theyre great, its just a shame they were hurting my eyes and head.
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Too bad you had to get rid of them, man. Still sounds like you had a good time.
 
yea it is, its okays, I feel like i got good use out of them. I was surprised, played about two hours of xonotic then it hit me like a ton of bricks. my eye left still hurts a bit but its better then what it was, Guess good time OLED are "starting" to get there.
I have a Imgur album im working on, for all the photos taken.
 
Nah, thats not a true 240 monitor, I might pick up a panel and try this controller this dude is selling here on the forum and go from there. but we'll see. There is a new ViewSonic Gaming Micro Site coming out soon, but I heard 31:9(or something close to that) is coming out soon. right now I have a Korean panel at 100hz atm.
 
NO, I never confirmed it would shut off before hand :( , and I didn't do much testing afterwards. Just let it warm up and that was about it. Ordered a usb ttl cable to check out windas (PL2303 USB UART Board (micro) USB to Serial TTL UART Module Converter Adapter) hope it works :p While I did let it warm up there were some problems , one side of the screen was zig zagging along the boarder. There were also multi colored retrace lines green and red I think.
 
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I was out for a week and my CRT has been powered off this entire time. It is popping in and out with focus. Should I let it warm up or just turn it off for now? This is the first time this happens since I've owned this beauty :(

okay some googling and it sounds like FBT problem. Still I hoped problem would solve by itself. Maybe tomorrow morning...
 
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Left it turned on since morning and it seems that once every few hours it starts to shake for a moment but overally works well. Going to keep it turned on overnight.

Unkle Vito do you think this is FBT problem? If so, do you have any spare ones?
 
igsux3 said:
Left it turned on since morning and it seems that once every few hours it starts to shake for a moment but overally works well. Going to keep it turned on overnight.

Unkle Vito do you think this is FBT problem? If so, do you have any spare ones?
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When mine had the same issue leaving it on all the time helped in the beginning but it got worse and worse, swapping the board eventually fixed it though.
 
master noran said:
had the same issue leaving it on all the time helped in the beginning but it got worse and worse, swapping the board eventually fixed it though.
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Day 3 and no signs of popping yet. Anyway I think I should replace what is necessary. What do you mean by "board"?
 
So guys, what is the proper method for calibrating a Diamondtron monitor? I assume you can't use WinDAS. Is there an equivalent piece of software for Diamondtrons?

Now that I have a colorimeter, I'd like to dial in all my monitors, including my LaCie 22 blue electron iv.
 
Having a hard time finding the service manual for the Lacie, but I do have a manual for a NEC which is either near-identical or the same monitor.

Spacediver, how helpful do you think your guides will be when calibrating a monitor without WinDAS? I uploaded the service manual, do you think it has enough control to get it properly dialed in? Maybe if I calibrate one of my Trinitrons ahead of time with WinDAS, I could use that as a reference?
 

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