This is probably a stupid question but im only asking to make sure..does the noctua NF-A15 with 120mm mounting holes fit on the side intake of the M1? or the bottom intake? Im just asking incase the A15 is too high to close case or too low that touches GP or something? Probably a stupid question but Im just making sure before I purchase a Noctua NF-A15
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NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)
- Thread starter wahaha360
- Start date
Take a look at this post regarding the NF-A15.
As a follow up to this, I did see this build, which has a Noctua NF-A15 installed alongside a regular 120mm Noctua. The NF-A15 is an interesting fan - it measures 140x150mm, but it has a rounded frame and the same mounting holes as a 120mm fan. The fans just fit together on the fan bracket:
This should mean that any 140mm fan with 120mm mounting holes will fit along with a 120mm fan on the bracket.
So, I just overclocked my system to 4.5 Ghz with the i5-6600K.
I am running 2 fans in the case floor 140mm + 120mm at 500 rpm (variable speed but remained at minimum during testing)
I am running 2 fans in the side panel 140mm + 120mm at 700rpm (fixed speed).
After 20 minutes of Aida64 my CPU cores never went over 60-65°C. (Room temperature around 20°C)
Idle temps are around 25°C and gaming I get to around 35-40°C.
Now, I was just about to go out and buy a new PWC fan for my CPU cooler. Should I now scrap that idea? The temps seem perfectly fine! Even if I add another 10-12°C for the hat summer days I will be at around 70-75°C during stress testing. Surely that is perfectly fine, right?
Here a screenshot:
I am running 2 fans in the case floor 140mm + 120mm at 500 rpm (variable speed but remained at minimum during testing)
I am running 2 fans in the side panel 140mm + 120mm at 700rpm (fixed speed).
After 20 minutes of Aida64 my CPU cores never went over 60-65°C. (Room temperature around 20°C)
Idle temps are around 25°C and gaming I get to around 35-40°C.
Now, I was just about to go out and buy a new PWC fan for my CPU cooler. Should I now scrap that idea? The temps seem perfectly fine! Even if I add another 10-12°C for the hat summer days I will be at around 70-75°C during stress testing. Surely that is perfectly fine, right?
Here a screenshot:
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ILikeVoltron
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Temps seem fine to me.
As far as the GPU fans, I went with the EVGA GeForce GTX 970 and can set the fans down to 0 at no load, which is also what I did. Maybe your GPU has fan controls like this?
It seems the Gigabyte card I got doesn't allow passive mode. I am sending it back and getting the EVGA ITX card.
HoodedHusky
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Have a V5 case, mostly simple build at the moment with an overclocked i5 (@4.5), and 780ti, and can confirm that the Corsair Sf600 fits perfectly, and runs nice and quiet.
Leads are flat, feel quite decent quality, but not the most flexible. The leads can just about be routed so that they do no touch the graphics card.
Leads are flat, feel quite decent quality, but not the most flexible. The leads can just about be routed so that they do no touch the graphics card.
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HoodedHusky
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A quick google for "pwm splitter" should lead you to them. I think mine was made by Akasa.
Just a note for anyone else that may run into this, another solution that would work is a sata splitter: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-PYO2SATA-Power-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B002N2EHVQ/
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Has anyone put a Silverstone Blue-Ray slot loader into their M1? Supposedly it is the same as the old Panasonic UJ-265 but a better quality unit. Amazon.com: Silverstone 12.7mm SATA Interface Slot Load 6X Blu-Ray Writer with 8X CD/DVD RW Drive (SOB02): Computers & Accessories You can still get the UJ-265 but they have to be imported from China by a third party vendor. The Silverstone is more readily available.
The UJ-267 is a 9.5mm laptop slot loader unit so not a direct replacement for the 12.5mm UJ-265.
New Update: Got the Silverstone unit today (3/23/2016) and opened it up and what does it say in the manual? It says its a Panasonic UJ-265. LOL So anyway if you want to get a UJ-265 just buy the Silverstone unit linked above. It's more readily available and a little cheaper than the Panasonic unit.
The UJ-267 is a 9.5mm laptop slot loader unit so not a direct replacement for the 12.5mm UJ-265.
New Update: Got the Silverstone unit today (3/23/2016) and opened it up and what does it say in the manual? It says its a Panasonic UJ-265. LOL So anyway if you want to get a UJ-265 just buy the Silverstone unit linked above. It's more readily available and a little cheaper than the Panasonic unit.
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Shu-tography
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I paid roughly around (all prices are in AUD)
$150 for the pump
$20 for the hard-line tubing
$170 in fittings
$90 for the CPU block
$130 for the GPU block + backplate
Total $560 not including radiator and fans
I'm thinking of pulling it apart and replacing the Silverstone FW121s with the Noctua NF12 industrial PPC 3000rpm fans at the bottom because when I render something from 3dsMAX my temps go through the roof.
Shu-tography
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For me I don't think it's enough, the radiator down the bottom in my setup isn't getting enough airflow I think because the slim fans aren't powerful enough.
I don't game but when I'm using both the GPU and the CPU to render something in 3D my temperatures have gone past 90C on the CPU once. That was very scary. And the GPU shot up to 70C.
I'm hoping replacing the slim fans with the Noctua 3000rpm ones will help.
But if you try to do this you'll have to cut your radiator so air can escape.
I've tried it with a 25mm fan and the radiator butts up against the bottom of the GPU water block, meaning no air can escape. So you'll have to cut a bit out the side so air can escape
I got a reply from a Asetek rep this afternoon.
"We should have more 545LCs up on our eBay store in the next week."
I'll try and score one and see how well it does in my upcoming M1 build.
Update: I ordered one today off eBay. Delivery date is slated for the 29th. Although Asetek doesn't list it as 1150/51 compatible the manual shows a 1150 bracket included so we'll see if it fits or not. I'll have a NH-U9S as a back up.
"We should have more 545LCs up on our eBay store in the next week."
I'll try and score one and see how well it does in my upcoming M1 build.
Update: I ordered one today off eBay. Delivery date is slated for the 29th. Although Asetek doesn't list it as 1150/51 compatible the manual shows a 1150 bracket included so we'll see if it fits or not. I'll have a NH-U9S as a back up.
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Thanks for the info. I'll keep saving. Fittings are so expensive
MarkRWatts
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I have the EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump) – EK Webshop mounted exactly where those holes are, but sadly they're not in the right position to match the EK mounting bracket.
I've had to fabricate a custom plate and extend one of the rectangular holes slightly to get it to fit - if the front of the case was reworked slightly, and holes added in the right place, you'd easily be able to mount the Revo there.
You'd lose the internal 2.5" and side 3.5" drive mounts but the ones right on the front still work.
MarkRWatts
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Actually, because you cannot mount the Coolstream SE 240 radiator to the fan mounting holes without fouling the front USB/power/audio ports, you end up pushing it right into the "back corner".
This gives you plenty of room to access both sides of the waterblock outlet, at least on the EK FC970 GTX ACX - Acetal+Nickel I'm using (the picture you liked was my build before upgrading to an additional radiator)
In fact, now I've re-worked things to add a second 120mm radiator to the side (rear side mount) I've found it easier to route the tubing to a 90 degree + compression fitting coming out the bottom of the waterblock, facing the rear, so there's definitely room to access the rear-most one at least (the front one starts getting in the way of the PCIe power cables).
I've changed entirely from hard to soft 10/13mm tubing because I'd have needed to change a couple of the pipes anyway so I figured it would be more consistent to go with soft tubing throughout.
Black Barrow 90 degree and compression fittings from eBay and a couple of EK and Koolance extensions round things off.
I'll try and take some pictures when I get a moment as it's all a bit "snug" in there but nothing is under stress
For the record, adding the second 120mm radiator with a Noctua fan has pretty much fixed the cooling worries I had.
Water temps were pretty static at 40C under load which is way better than the 55+ I was seeing and the CPU/GPU were lower too. It's not going to win any 'extreme results' prizes but I'm happy with it
Shu-tography
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What do you guys think about the 90mm fan slot?? Have you guys got it in pushing air in or pulling the hot air out???
My current intake is from the bottom of the case, through the radiator
My current intake is from the bottom of the case, through the radiator
Has anyone tried to fit the Artic Cooling Liquid Freezer 120 into the M1?
I'm curious about how a push-pull 120mm setup works in this case, and the only other option (Corsair H80i GT) is difficult to install in this case because it has tubes that are too thick, stiff and long.
I'm curious about how a push-pull 120mm setup works in this case, and the only other option (Corsair H80i GT) is difficult to install in this case because it has tubes that are too thick, stiff and long.
I don't think anyone here has but its a very long thread now. Check the excel data sheet linked on front page. If no one listed it there I'd say its safe to say no one has. There are a lot of cooling units yet to be tested concerning this case. The buyer is the guinea pig basically much of the time which can be adventurous and fun if you are into that sort of thing.
Qrash
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The radiator is 49 mm thick. Add two 25 mm fans in a push-pull configuration and you have a total of 99 mm, plus any extra for an inner fan guard. The height limit for a CPU cooler in the M1 is 140 mm, so that leaves only 40 mm for the CPU block and the attachment of the hoses which are at the top of the CPU block for this AIO cooler. There's no way the radiator and fans would fit in the front half of the side bracket because of the power supply, so you are limited to stuffing everything at the back half of the bracket over the motherboard.
Finally found an EVGA 980 TI SC referencecEVGA - Products - EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti SC GAMING - 06G-P4-4992-KR with a backplate for sale! Looks like my build will be complete when it arrives.
I'm selling mineAny1 who want to sell their ncase M1
shoot me a pm.
Clonemaster
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Hello,
how do u guys keep ur Ncase clean of fingerprints ?
how do u guys keep ur Ncase clean of fingerprints ?
Don´t touch it
>joke< I got no problems with fingerprints. Maybe you shold clean your hands Same here - what fingerprints? I have the silver version and have 0 issues.
Clonemaster
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Yes silver users shouldn't have problems with fingerprints, but are there no black users ?? Of course my hands are clean, I wash them up to ten times a day
Got a black v1 here, no issues with fingerprints. Just slightly deformed panels (that are my own damned fault...)Yes silver users shouldn't have problems with fingerprints, but are there no black users ?? Of course my hands are clean, I wash them up to ten times a day
D
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Yes silver users shouldn't have problems with fingerprints, but are there no black users ?? Of course my hands are clean, I wash them up to ten times a day
It depends on how greasy your hands are by default. Mine are a lot, so I use gloves or clean the case after touching it. Still, its not something that you are touching for anything, so it shouldn't be a problem.
exzacklyright
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Been wanting to downsize every since mini-itx got popular! Finally!
Compared it to my node 304 and corsair 650D.
Ncase M1 V5
Troubleshooting issues I had:
Compared it to my node 304 and corsair 650D.
Ncase M1 V5
Troubleshooting issues I had:
- Installed cooler the wrong way at first... woops.
- HDMI cables for testing were bad!
- Cable management is pretty bad since I just wanted to get it working asap. I'm gonna upgrade eventually to pascal so hopefully by then I'll be able to fix it up.
- Molex connectors seemed pretty flimsy and hard to snap but it is what it is.
- Noticed also the fan connector to the h100 cpu unit has only 1 wire. That worried me too! Everything turned on though. There's another 2 pin molex that's going to the PSU.
- Didn't realize windows 10 keys were bound to the HW... agh. So I installed win 10.. wouldn't activate... reflashed win 8.1.. installed that.. then I had to activate that.. would crash at 98% when doing the upgrade.. so I found online some maneuver to fix it.. and it finally upgraded.
It's the wire for the RPM reading so the software can read the fan speed. The actual power comes directly from the PSU.
Clonemaster
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Today I cleaned my Ncase.
Clear water is enough to remove fingerprints
Also remounted CPU cooler, because too little thermal paste.
Now Im 3°C cooler @load.
Max temp prime95 ~60°C i5-4690K(delidded) @stock&NH-U9S 2fans
Loudest part now is the EVGA GTX980 @reference, but Im holding
out for pascal.
Clear water is enough to remove fingerprints
Also remounted CPU cooler, because too little thermal paste.
Now Im 3°C cooler @load.
Max temp prime95 ~60°C i5-4690K(delidded) @stock&NH-U9S 2fans
Loudest part now is the EVGA GTX980 @reference, but Im holding
out for pascal.
Well guys, my Noctua bracket finally came so I put the computer together with the NH-C14 and it sounds awesome. I can barely hear the thing running @ 4.4 GHz.
Here is my build album Ncase M1. I'll be replacing the HD6950 with a reference 980TI when it arrives Monday but I couldn't wait to get rid of the stock Dynatron cooler that came with the motherboard. Oh and I put heatsinks on my Samsung 950 Pro (first pic has part number) and now it doesn't go above 42 even when I really hammer it. Very happy with that result.
I have cable cleanup to do but that can wait for the new video card. Building in the case is some of the best fun I have had in ages.
Here is my build album Ncase M1. I'll be replacing the HD6950 with a reference 980TI when it arrives Monday but I couldn't wait to get rid of the stock Dynatron cooler that came with the motherboard. Oh and I put heatsinks on my Samsung 950 Pro (first pic has part number) and now it doesn't go above 42 even when I really hammer it. Very happy with that result.
I have cable cleanup to do but that can wait for the new video card. Building in the case is some of the best fun I have had in ages.
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I just draw and 3d print a mount for the ek reservoir (EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM (incl.pump) - Glass), this is the first trial:
This is what it looks like after mounting inside the case:
May I ask if anyone knows what is the height of the display card with blackplate on it? because I am afraid that it will touch the bottom of the reservoir. Thanks a lot.
This is what it looks like after mounting inside the case:
May I ask if anyone knows what is the height of the display card with blackplate on it? because I am afraid that it will touch the bottom of the reservoir. Thanks a lot.
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PaperLawyer
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Well I built up my N1 last night and I pretty much doubled the build time with my poor choice of approach:
- let's fit the optical drive first as it is out of the way....
- oh, the SSD can be mounted behind the front panel but that means removing the optical drive again....but now SSD and optical drive installed
- let's just drop in the motherboard with the essential cables connected....
- oh, the SF450 PSU won't squeeze between the heatsink and the SSD....remove optical drive to access SSD mounting screws, remove SSD, install PSU then refit SSD (Second time) and optical drive (third time)
....
So the way the 2.5" drives are installed is to put all four of the rubber washers and pan head M3 screws in the drive first, and then just slide the whole thing into the keyhole mounts (on the front panel or on the bottom). There's no reason to remove the optical drive to remove an SSD on the opposite side. It's only the shovel-shaped keyhole mounts (on the bottom and HDD cage), which are used just for the 3.5" drives, that you can't slide the drive into.
This is where I kind of have to apologize, since it's where a manual would come in handy. Making one is something that's been on my to-do list for a while. It is kind of a project unto itself though, and takes some time and wherewithal to actually get done.
For the record, adding the second 120mm radiator with a Noctua fan has pretty much fixed the cooling worries I had.
Water temps were pretty static at 40C under load which is way better than the 55+ I was seeing and the CPU/GPU were lower too. It's not going to win any 'extreme results' prizes but I'm happy with it
Interesting, I've been planning a loop for my M1 that would use the EK 240 SE and 15mm Silverstone fans in the bottom of the case (really wish there was a way to get 25mm fans in down there... if only that part of the case were 15mm taller...) and a 92mm rad on the rear exhaust. Would you estimate that would be adequate for good temps given your experience?
I think most graphics cards can adequately intake air from the bottom without needing extra fans. I didn't see a temperature difference with bottom fans vs. without them. Of course, if you install an aftermarket cooler like the Arctic Accelero III/IV or have a water cooling rad in the bottom, they are necessary.