24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

i would definitely say its the ultimate retro pc monitor.. one of the best crt monitors. i still have a sony 19 inch gdm monitor. Still have a fondness for crt. I guess that has to do with LCDs for the long time being a step down.
 
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christpunchers said:
And if I do connect the 5v, is it not going to work properly with Windas?
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My monitors won't even turn on with the 5V connected. The 5V on the Trinitrons is actually coming out of the monitor mainboard for the old TTL chips that needed to be powered. In the adapters the 5V is actually supplying power from USB as well, so you don't want them bumping heads.
 
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Mumble said:
Hi fw900 users who like to keep using on AMD cards, I emailed a fellow who makes racdac for high end projectors and here is what I have to share.

this is a ramdac made be a guy name moome ( Email :[email protected]) [Website: Moomecard - Home ]

This is a custom order(handmade as well) he show me that he does here(Pic below), HDMI to RGBHV converter, Im somewhat interested in myself but As I sent to him in the email 75 hertz(I am assuming that at lower resolutions will do higher, don't quote me) is to low for me. He did say he has a HDMI 2.0 product he was working to which he said out be about 6 to 8 months out (depending)

If you have any question you should email him, He is going to be emailing me shortly something of a spec sheet so I can share.View attachment 116 View attachment 117 View attachment 119
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Any chance that a converter will help the FW900 display a higher quality image than straight up DVI coming out of a NV card?
 
My FW900 has started flickering red for the first 10 seconds or so after a cold start and shows green retrace lines on dark images. Is there anything I can do to save it?
 
sprak74 said:
Just played around a bit calibrating FW900 with DisplayCal and Monaco by X-Rite Calibration Color Optix XR DTP94. Here's my result:

View attachment 1046

Don't know how good or bad it is.
Now under "Black point/ Black level", DisplayCal want you to adjust your display "offset" does that mean the monitor RGB "BIAS"? Next will try the white point balance.
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It just shows gamut, nothing really useful as we know that FW900 gamut is really close to sRGB.

You should not touch black or white point in displayCAL as these should be set during hardware calibration with WinDAS.
 
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goat- said:
My FW900 has started flickering red for the first 10 seconds or so after a cold start and shows green retrace lines on dark images. Is there anything I can do to save it?
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Make sure it's not something stupid like the cable and see if it does the same on both inputs. If the issues persist then see if tapping it lightly in certain areas effect it, might be a bad solder joint then.
 
christpunchers said:
Any chance that a converter will help the FW900 display a higher quality image than straight up DVI coming out of a NV card?
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In theory yes, Im waiting to try out his HDMI 2.0 version in a couple of months, so I cant speak first hand.
its what the cards supports(IIRc and correct me if im wrong, im pretty sure all graphics card ATM are all 10-bit or at least most gaming cards, I take that back, seems like the new 290's can do 12 bit color ) .
Its useful for me because I can hooked up my modify consoles all to my fw900( One month and counting boys before me and my two beauties are united at last)
If you have any real questions you should email him, just keep in mind English is not his first language, so Don't be like me emailing A bunch of Electrical engineer shorthand in English and then making yourself look silly.
 
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Built a dedicated windows 10 Laptop running a virtualbox of XPSP3 to use my PL2303 USB to ttl to run WINDAS. Using Spacedivers WPB guide and a DTP94 to achieve CRT luminance and convergence Bliss! Dropped in Some BNC cables and adjusted the Nvidia control panel using the xlsx resolution spreadsheet on here to store my resolution configs.
 
bramabul5353 said:
Built a dedicated windows 10 Laptop running a virtualbox of XPSP3 to use my PL2303 USB to ttl to run WINDAS. Using Spacedivers WPB guide and a DTP94 to achieve CRT luminance and convergence Bliss! Dropped in Some BNC cables and adjusted the Nvidia control panel using the xlsx resolution spreadsheet on here to store my resolution configs.
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well done! Not many people are willing to go through the effort to calibrate these beauties, but as you now understand, it's well worth it :)
 
Calibration day! Decided to adjust the white balance of my GDM-F520 and do some dynamic convergence / convergence touch-ups on the Artisan. F520's G2 has drifted considerably in the last year (I have to turn Brightness down to 40 to get a good black, whereas after White Balance adjust, it should have a good black level at Brightness = 50). Artisan surprisingly has not drifted all that much in the G2 department. I'm surprised, actually. Its convergence is drifting though.
 
jbltecnicspro said:
Calibration day! Decided to adjust the white balance of my GDM-F520 and do some dynamic convergence / convergence touch-ups on the Artisan. F520's G2 has drifted considerably in the last year (I have to turn Brightness down to 40 to get a good black, whereas after White Balance adjust, it should have a good black level at Brightness = 50). Artisan surprisingly has not drifted all that much in the G2 department. I'm surprised, actually. Its convergence is drifting though.
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About how many hours a day of usage do your monitors see? Wondering what the trend is.
 
jbltecnicspro said:
Not sure. I can start tracking it if you like. Most of the time, I use them on weekends only. These screens are used for gaming mostly.
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Ballpark is fine. Weekends only, so about 16 some hours a week, 2.5 hours a day? Interesting. How many hours does your F520 have on it already?
 
aeliusg said:
Ballpark is fine. Weekends only, so about 16 some hours a week, 2.5 hours a day? Interesting. How many hours does your F520 have on it already?
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Nah, it's more like 8 hours a week max on each. I don't know how many hours I have on my F520. Nor do I know my Artisan. I'm the second owner for both.
 
aeliusg said:
Ah, thanks. I'm guessing they drift further and faster with age, but who knows.
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They hold pretty well. It's not really their age but their hours. I have to say that when I was calibrating the F520, I could not believe how "locked in" these monitors are. When you calibrate televisions, you expect some white balance swing when doing cut off and drive adjustments. For example, when I adjust drive to be on target, I expect cutoff to be a little off, and then I expect to have to find a "happy medium" between the two and call it a day - even on nicer CRT televisions. But these monitors are something else! Set drive to target and then set cutoff to target and these monitors track almost perfectly. It's scary how linearly they track. These monitors are true gems, and if they really are BVM's in VGA monitor clothing, I wouldn't doubt it for one second.
 
Doing a WPB on my second monitor last night. For some reason I can get the x and y to track properly but my Y value has been tracking off. I think I may have it in the wrong format or the interface is not configured properly. For example my Y value is supposed to be 8 on target but only can achieve 4 even when maxed with the x and y on point. Seems to be halving whatever I input at higher luminance. I recalibrated my meter, and double checked my settings?
 
bramabul5353 said:
Doing a WPB on my second monitor last night. For some reason I can get the x and y to track properly but my Y value has been tracking off. I think I may have it in the wrong format or the interface is not configured properly. For example my Y value is supposed to be 8 on target but only can achieve 4 even when maxed with the x and y on point. Seems to be halving whatever I input at higher luminance. I recalibrated my meter, and double checked my settings?
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Are you talking about step 46? What do you mean by "halving whatever you input at higher luminance?"
 
spacediver said:
Are you talking about step 46? What do you mean by "halving whatever you input at higher luminance?"
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I figured it out. For some odd reason it was my USB port on that machine was malfunctioning. Finished up the Calibration last night. Weird issue
 
Calibrated and got some low light shots on My nexus 6p. Poor little lcd on the left looks horrible compared to those Ink blacks of the crt.

iBIrwzh.jpg

w2Z1LcD.jpg

wN5oICu.jpg
 
the CRT blacks are SO Black, that the 'power on' light of the CRT is the only thing visible.

I'm looking at the blacks on above screenshots, and is it ME or can you actually SEE the difference between where the CRT screen is at, compared to the bezel and the crt surrounding?

Must be my imagination, but I think I see a black rectangle where the CRT is that is even BLACKER then the darkness on the photo :eek:

Only a CRT can do those black levels..

I think if I look really hard, that I can actually see the contours of the Bezel of the CRT, just thanks to the LIGHT the LCD screen gives off.
 
atwix said:
the CRT blacks are SO Black, that the 'power on' light of the CRT is the only thing visible.

I'm looking at the blacks on above screenshots, and is it ME or can you actually SEE the difference between where the CRT screen is at, compared to the bezel and the crt surrounding?

Must be my imagination, but I think I see a black rectangle where the CRT is that is even BLACKER then the darkness on the photo :eek:

Only a CRT can do those black levels..

I think if I look really hard, that I can actually see the contours of the Bezel of the CRT, just thanks to the LIGHT the LCD screen gives off.
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Enter the Abyss..... lol They are very Dark indeed. That G2 adjustment is very good at making sure your contrast is at its best. If you turn out all the lights in the room then it is almost impossible when loading a black image on the screen to tell if my FW900 is even on. I had someone comment here saying that the KURO Plasma was maybe darker, but after comparing my VT60 to My FW900 there is not contest. The CRT all day wins in this area after calibration.
 
Be careful, it might stare back at you, Great job bramabrul on the blacks, Spacedriver(think it was you) what was that color calibrator you recommended for about $60 that was tuned for the FW900 phosphorus decay and colors? found it.
 
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atwix said:
the CRT blacks are SO Black, that the 'power on' light of the CRT is the only thing visible.

I'm looking at the blacks on above screenshots, and is it ME or can you actually SEE the difference between where the CRT screen is at, compared to the bezel and the crt surrounding?

Must be my imagination, but I think I see a black rectangle where the CRT is that is even BLACKER then the darkness on the photo :eek:

Only a CRT can do those black levels..

I think if I look really hard, that I can actually see the contours of the Bezel of the CRT, just thanks to the LIGHT the LCD screen gives off.
Click to expand...

I think it's simply the camera honing in on the LCD light that the CRT looks black. In practice a CRT usually isn't pitch black. OLED is the only thing that can do it. And an ISF calibrator mentioned this in an AVS thread, that OLED essentially out-does what film can produce. Film cannot produce blacks like OLED can, which effectively renders OLED moot in that regard.

Now before you all come at me with your pitchforks saying that I've lost my medication... I don't mean that OLED isn't awesome. I don't mean that CRT is better than OLED. I'm just saying if you have a high-end CRT monitor that you watch movies on, or a high-end CRT... ANYTHING! You have no reason to upgrade to OLED unless you want bigger, thinner, 4K etc. It will take awhile still before our equipment can really REALLY take advantage of it.
 
jbltecnicspro said:
I think it's simply the camera honing in on the LCD light that the CRT looks black. In practice a CRT usually isn't pitch black. OLED is the only thing that can do it. And an ISF calibrator mentioned this in an AVS thread, that OLED essentially out-does what film can produce. Film cannot produce blacks like OLED can, which effectively renders OLED moot in that regard.

Now before you all come at me with your pitchforks saying that I've lost my medication... I don't mean that OLED isn't awesome. I don't mean that CRT is better than OLED. I'm just saying if you have a high-end CRT monitor that you watch movies on, or a high-end CRT... ANYTHING! You have no reason to upgrade to OLED unless you want bigger, thinner, 4K etc. It will take awhile still before our equipment can really REALLY take advantage of it.
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HDR is another reason, at least for home theater (UHD 4K being the prerequisite there). There's something about watching HD content on a properly calibrated CRT, though. The colors just look right.
 
I have a very serious question for all you FW900 users here. What about radiation? I have seen youtube videos where people take radiation meters and put it up next to CRT monitors and get a big hit from quite far away. I honestly don't know how much radiation is "good" or "bad" but do you guys have any health concerns using a CRT monitor as big as the FW900? I used to have one and I loved it and I was actually contemplating getting one from eBay for a new build but so many of my friends are "warning" me against it. Any input would be awesome!
 
musicpee9 said:
I have a very serious question for all you FW900 users here. What about radiation? I have seen youtube videos where people take radiation meters and put it up next to CRT monitors and get a big hit from quite far away. I honestly don't know how much radiation is "good" or "bad" but do you guys have any health concerns using a CRT monitor as big as the FW900? I used to have one and I loved it and I was actually contemplating getting one from eBay for a new build but so many of my friends are "warning" me against it. Any input would be awesome!
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You get far more radiation from the sun and backround than from a CRT. Eating a single banana is comparable to months of heavy CRT use (multiple hours per day).
 
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