I never looked at it. but I wasnt paying $350 for $750(retail) for monitor Over 12 years ago even if it is a diamondtron.
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24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.
- Thread starter mathesar
- Start date
I never looked at it. but I wasnt paying $350 for $750(retail) for monitor Over 12 years ago even if it is a diamondtron.
Just a long time lurker. Still running a Sony F-520 crt as my third monitor for about 8 hours a week. Its still unbeatable for dvd's, hd rips and gaming. It really shines with older games and some emulators. I lucked out with getting a great used unit for $35 dollars about three years ago. No issues with contrast or sharpness and goes up to 2048 x 1536.
I might have to look into a spare unit this year if possible. Not too many good crt's left on the market. I had to ditch a few other crt's that didn't age so well a while ago. I had a dell p1110 that only lasted a year and a half before major brightness issues, another which I performed the brightness fix on multiple times. Don't buy that monitor. A Sony G-500 also had similar issues after three years. A had a dell p991 that lasted almost 10 years second hand and another that I got rid of due to space. A nice compact monitor that is very limited by resolution. I gave my GF a dell P1130 that has held up great over the years.
In short, look for Dell p991, Dell p1130 and Sony F 520. Forget the p1110.
I might have to look into a spare unit this year if possible. Not too many good crt's left on the market. I had to ditch a few other crt's that didn't age so well a while ago. I had a dell p1110 that only lasted a year and a half before major brightness issues, another which I performed the brightness fix on multiple times. Don't buy that monitor. A Sony G-500 also had similar issues after three years. A had a dell p991 that lasted almost 10 years second hand and another that I got rid of due to space. A nice compact monitor that is very limited by resolution. I gave my GF a dell P1130 that has held up great over the years.
In short, look for Dell p991, Dell p1130 and Sony F 520. Forget the p1110.
Enhanced Interrogator
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At this point, I'd say get any Trinitron/Diamondtron you can find. There are hardly any left out there, so passing up a P1110 could be a mistake, you don't know when another decent CRT will ever show up on your local craigslist.
And your F-520 can go way higher than 2048x1536, you just gotta use CRU. Of course it's not quite sharp enough to actually show all the detail of, say 2400x1800, but it can scan at those rates
EDIT: Cable+Adapter has been claimed. Thanks!
Howdy all,
I haven't had one of these units for years. But I was cleaning out the closet and found my old serial cable w/ adapter for connecting to the WINDAS port on the FW900's back. It seems a shame to just throw it out. So if anyone wants it, just send me a PM. Please only do so if you actually need it though.
Howdy all,
I haven't had one of these units for years. But I was cleaning out the closet and found my old serial cable w/ adapter for connecting to the WINDAS port on the FW900's back. It seems a shame to just throw it out. So if anyone wants it, just send me a PM. Please only do so if you actually need it though.
Last edited:
Malinkadink
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I have an opportunity to pick up a IBM ThinkVision C220P for less than $100, supposedly not much use on it, has been sitting in storage. Is this a good one to grab? I haven't used a CRT since the early 2000s, but over the past year have been looking for a display to satisfy me with good blacks and IQ in general as well as providing a smooth gaming experience which clearly an LCD can't do without some major compromises in one area or the other.
Finally started looking at CRTs, and i think one of these will be a good pick to have around until LCDs start to get phased out and some affordable OLED monitors make a splash. So yay or nay on the C220P? I would of course like an FW900, but none are available in my area and though i dont know much about CRTs i gather that the C220P is still fairly high end and capable in the CRT world.
Finally started looking at CRTs, and i think one of these will be a good pick to have around until LCDs start to get phased out and some affordable OLED monitors make a splash. So yay or nay on the C220P? I would of course like an FW900, but none are available in my area and though i dont know much about CRTs i gather that the C220P is still fairly high end and capable in the CRT world.
KG-Prime90
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Fuck yeah it is if it works. So, I had one of those and actually didn't even know that is what it was until i just looked up the model since you asked. I remembered it was an IMB is all. I got mine for like 40 bucks back in 2005? Is that when Dime got killed? 2006? Anyway, It was in a garage full of crap a friends landlord was selling off shit from an eviction from one of her properties. There was like 3 crts, i just picked the biggest one. We got some pc cases psu other shit. Didn't know what it was or anything it was just the biggest one
and i basically got it for free in the end anyway, tit for tat on beer burgers ect. Wish it was where i live i would have called on it already. There have been no crts worth a crap on craigslist or offer up for months around here. Really slim pickens anymore.If it hasn't been used in a long time the caps could be dry or whatever, it could fail, you never know it's always a gamble, but still for less than a hundy i would chance it.
Hi, long time-reader, first time poster.
I have a Dell P991, which suffers from the very common “overly bright issue”. In the beginning I could just turn down the brightness on the OSD but at this point it is at zero, and I have brightness set to zero in the Nvidia control panel but it is still way too bright so I guess I am at the end of the road. (The factory “colorreset” in the OSD did help before, but not anymore).
So I guess I have to at least give Windas a try (if I break the monitor, well so be it). The problem is, most of the guides I find seems to link to downloads that no longer exists, or is made for Windows 98/XP.
I guess there is a guide somewhere in this megathread, but I can’t really seem to find it, and seeing as it is over 13 000 replies to go through I would be most grateful for any help I can get. Is there a working guide for Windas (on Win7) that can tell me how to do this step by step?
If it does not works on Win7 I might have and old computer running Win XP stored away, that I at least thinks still works.
I have a Dell P991, which suffers from the very common “overly bright issue”. In the beginning I could just turn down the brightness on the OSD but at this point it is at zero, and I have brightness set to zero in the Nvidia control panel but it is still way too bright so I guess I am at the end of the road. (The factory “colorreset” in the OSD did help before, but not anymore).
So I guess I have to at least give Windas a try (if I break the monitor, well so be it). The problem is, most of the guides I find seems to link to downloads that no longer exists, or is made for Windows 98/XP.
I guess there is a guide somewhere in this megathread, but I can’t really seem to find it, and seeing as it is over 13 000 replies to go through I would be most grateful for any help I can get. Is there a working guide for Windas (on Win7) that can tell me how to do this step by step?
If it does not works on Win7 I might have and old computer running Win XP stored away, that I at least thinks still works.
Here you go:
There's a link to a working copy of WinDAS in the description, and a link to another video that tells you how to get it working in Windows 7.
When I try to do this Windas starts doing "something" but then I get this error: Check RS232C Line
Googled it and found this Blur Busters Forums • View topic - Fixing CRT brightness with WinDAS (lots of pictures)
"At this point, WinDAS could finally see the monitor, so I selected Save Data to File, the monitor turned off, the progress bar moved a bit, and then it failed:
ECS2 Error Code :FFFFF001
Check RS232C Line
This would end up happening a lot. I turned the monitor back on, disconnected the adapter, closed and reopened WinDAS, and tried again. After many attempts, it finally worked, and I was able to read the G2 level: 154. It was easy enough to find in the .dat file by looking at the surrounding values. Notepad++ is safe to read from and write to the .dat files.
The Dell was pretty bright, so I changed the value to 134, saved to a new file, and selected Load Data to Set.
"Hold on to your butts."
The monitor turned off, the progress bar crept along for a moment, and then it failed. Totally dejected, I thought, "Well, I've ruined this one." But after turning the monitor off and back on, everything functioned normally. As I mentioned earlier, this failure kept happening, but as I slowly realized it wasn't catastrophic, I became less and less apprehensive each time.
After five or six more tries, it finally completed. The G2 value of 134 ended up being too dark, so I made a few more adjustments to hone in on a proper number. From 134 to 144 and finally to 141, this took more than twenty attempts. I didn't know which was the problem: the monitor or the Kootek adapter."
That guy apparently made it work eventually but I don't seem to be able to do that.
"Something" is happening because the monitor refuses to turn back on until I unplugg the USB, so I guess there is some connection between Windas and the screen.
Any tip on how to proceed, cause if I just can get past this it would take me 5 min to "fix" the screen.
Googled it and found this Blur Busters Forums • View topic - Fixing CRT brightness with WinDAS (lots of pictures)
"At this point, WinDAS could finally see the monitor, so I selected Save Data to File, the monitor turned off, the progress bar moved a bit, and then it failed:
ECS2 Error Code :FFFFF001
Check RS232C Line
This would end up happening a lot. I turned the monitor back on, disconnected the adapter, closed and reopened WinDAS, and tried again. After many attempts, it finally worked, and I was able to read the G2 level: 154. It was easy enough to find in the .dat file by looking at the surrounding values. Notepad++ is safe to read from and write to the .dat files.
The Dell was pretty bright, so I changed the value to 134, saved to a new file, and selected Load Data to Set.
"Hold on to your butts."
The monitor turned off, the progress bar crept along for a moment, and then it failed. Totally dejected, I thought, "Well, I've ruined this one." But after turning the monitor off and back on, everything functioned normally. As I mentioned earlier, this failure kept happening, but as I slowly realized it wasn't catastrophic, I became less and less apprehensive each time.
After five or six more tries, it finally completed. The G2 value of 134 ended up being too dark, so I made a few more adjustments to hone in on a proper number. From 134 to 144 and finally to 141, this took more than twenty attempts. I didn't know which was the problem: the monitor or the Kootek adapter."
That guy apparently made it work eventually but I don't seem to be able to do that.
"Something" is happening because the monitor refuses to turn back on until I unplugg the USB, so I guess there is some connection between Windas and the screen.
Any tip on how to proceed, cause if I just can get past this it would take me 5 min to "fix" the screen.
spacediver
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Did you set the correct port for the USB-TTL cable? (look in device manager and it should show which port it's on)
Yes, I have done that.
Guess I might have to try with my old computer that runs Windows XP.
Btw, you are the one who made that video?
Don't know anything about this error, but try not connecting +5V. The USB adapters don't need or want to be powered (the power actually comes out of the monitor in this case), and you don't want to be feeding power to the monitor either.
spacediver
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Yrch, I'm the poster from that thread you linked.
As I mentioned in that post, performing any Windas operations with the IBM was trouble-free, but the Dell was, and continues to be, a nightmare each time. It's clear now that the Cootek adapter is a counterfeit Prolific chip, which may be why the Dell is so finicky. But it is puzzling why the IBM didn't mind.
Per spacediver's suggestion in that thread, I now use a Monaco Optix to calibrate instead of adjusting the G2 manually, but the process still frequently fails. I've tried every conceivable combination of data bits, parity, flow control, buffers, etc., but nothing reliably works. So getting through a full calibration is... time consuming.
I have what I think is an actual, legitimate Prolific USB to TTL adapter (PL2303TA chipset) coming in soon, so I'll test to see if it's any more successful than the counterfeit one.
As I mentioned in that post, performing any Windas operations with the IBM was trouble-free, but the Dell was, and continues to be, a nightmare each time. It's clear now that the Cootek adapter is a counterfeit Prolific chip, which may be why the Dell is so finicky. But it is puzzling why the IBM didn't mind.
Per spacediver's suggestion in that thread, I now use a Monaco Optix to calibrate instead of adjusting the G2 manually, but the process still frequently fails. I've tried every conceivable combination of data bits, parity, flow control, buffers, etc., but nothing reliably works. So getting through a full calibration is... time consuming.
I have what I think is an actual, legitimate Prolific USB to TTL adapter (PL2303TA chipset) coming in soon, so I'll test to see if it's any more successful than the counterfeit one.
How frequently do you adjust G2 compared to your daily usage?
darktechno
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Wow this is a huge thread full of information, has anyone ever complied a big info list for it?
master noran
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The new adapter came in yesterday, and, of course, it worked flawlessly. I wanted to wait until I could verify that it worked properly before mentioning the brand, but it's the Adafruit USB to TTL serial cable. No problems at all on Windows 10.
Only two calibrations in the last year, but each was such an enormous pain that they were both quite memorable.
Only two calibrations in the last year, but each was such an enormous pain that they were both quite memorable.
Yeah, the blue plugs are what you want. All of them should be genuine Prolific chips because the drivers won't even let them work if they aren't.
I was wondering how many hours you use your monitor a day. Is it your main display?
That post on blurbusters was nearly two years ago, and I've been using the Dell P1130 exclusively since. It's on for at least six hours a day -- usually more, and I always run it at it's maximum horizontal scan rate (130 kHz). For desktop use, that's 1340x1005 at 120 Hz.
It was manufactured week 51 of 2003, and even though I'm abusing it =), it still tops out at about 91 cd/m^2.
It's crazy that someone was giving it away for free.
I've never actually owned an LCD, so I've been using CRTs continuously since I had a 486. And only four of them! The very first was a ViewSonic CyberVision C70 17", then another ViewSonic, the PF795 19". Then the IBM P260 and lastly the Dell. Twenty years of CRTs!
It was manufactured week 51 of 2003, and even though I'm abusing it =), it still tops out at about 91 cd/m^2.
It's crazy that someone was giving it away for free.
I've never actually owned an LCD, so I've been using CRTs continuously since I had a 486. And only four of them! The very first was a ViewSonic CyberVision C70 17", then another ViewSonic, the PF795 19". Then the IBM P260 and lastly the Dell. Twenty years of CRTs!
jbltecnicspro
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Not to shake the finger at anyone (I'm glad that you all are getting good usage out of your excellent monitors!) - but you really owe it to yourself to get a colorimeter like a DTP-94, and do the whole WinDAS procedure and not just adjust the G2 using the DAT file procedure. The G2 is adjusted in the white balance adjustment procedures for a reason.
Good to hear. CRTs were really built more like scientific instruments rather than pushed out like cheap playthings, with the benefit of almost a century's worth of knowledge and experience, and for the fact that they simply wouldn't work very well if one were to do the latter. LCD's have never really lived up to that and probably never will, for the lack of trying mostly.
Can you tell me what colorimeter is cheap that gets the job on on fw900. I been meaning to get one. Thanks.
jbltecnicspro
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Monaco Optix DTP-94. It is tuned specifically to BVM phosphors (the SMPTE-C phosphors), which the FW-900 (and I suspect the rest of its GDM bretheren) use. Assuming it's in good, working order, you will not find a better bang for your buck in calibrating your monitor. That said, it's a fine all-around CRT meter as well.
Monaco by X-Rite Calibration Color Optix XR DTP94 Window/Mac 700-005
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Monaco Optix DTP-94. It is tuned specifically to BVM phosphors (the SMPTE-C phosphors), which the FW-900 (and I suspect the rest of its GDM bretheren) use. Assuming it's in good, working order, you will not find a better bang for your buck in calibrating your monitor. That said, it's a fine all-around CRT meter as well.
Monaco by X-Rite Calibration Color Optix XR DTP94 Window/Mac 700-005
Thanks. I got the one from ebay the link you provided. Now just hope the software is Windows 10 compatible.
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jbltecnicspro
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Most likely not, but you won't want to be using it anyways. Simply download the Argyll drivers (spacediver is your man on that one - he should probably know off the top of his head where to get them
) and use HFCR as your metering software and you're all set. That's how I roll. It's Windows 7 x64 compatible, so I'm positive it will work with Windows 10 as well.It's not, but you can use ArgyllCMS for driver support and either DisplayCAL or HCFR as a GUI calibration suite. Spacediver's guide shows you how to apply them for adjusting white point balance in WinDAS: WinDAS White Point Balance guide for Sony Trinitron CRTs
spacediver
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yep, the links in the guide are automatically directed to the latest versions of HCFR and ArgyllCMS. You should be fine if you follow all the instructions carefully. I recommend going through the guide once, and imagine yourself following the instructions. Then, give it a go for real. If you have any issues, post in the WinDAS thread or this one.
So to make things easier:
- buy TTL adapter with 3.3V / 5V control and use 5V. I've had some incredible problems with previous adapter without voltage control. Entire calibration would work properly but failed saving, windas showing some unreal values etc.
- use Win 2000/XP/Vista/7/8/8.1. Windows 10 did NOT work. Maybe someone finds a way someday.
- install cracked WinDAS and needed stuff (Step by step installation.)
- set proper COM port
- choose manual generator (otherwise you'll get astro errors)
- choose desired monitor from list (double click to confirm)
- everything should be fine from now on. If you use 5V TTL converter and set everything properly you should have working and stable connection to your monitor
First thing you should do is to save your .dat file. Click File -> Save Data to File. This is your default file that should be kept safe in case you mess up with anything.
Then go through all needed processes. I do geometry, landing, convergence and white point balance.
To properly do WPB follow Spacediver's WPB Guide.
Then I would recommend to use DisplayCAL which is GUI for ArgryllCMS and also has some important options like keeping proper profiles while you connect/disconnect other monitors. Also it has option to automatically download Argryll core files and your Monaco drivers (just remember that you must be in "disable driver signature mode"! How to Disable Driver Signature Verification on 64-Bit Windows 8.1 or 10 (So That You Can Install Unsigned Drivers)). Not only it is time saver but is much more intuitive for most users.
Then use .icm profiles with "Color Profile Keeper". This will let you have proper icm profile in fullscreen games (or at least most of them, I tried with about 100 games and only 3 overrided CPK settings : Dying Light, Company of Heroes 2 and Toybox Turbos).
I know this sounds like a lot of hassle, but trust me, this is probably the best way to handle your CRT monitor.
I'm still thinking of making some huge FAQ containing most important matters and files. IE there is no consolidated Dynamic Convergence guide in this forum, also only widespread white bars pattern is really loose. I did my own pattern with 4 times denser bars and it's much easier to carefully correct convergence issues.
And small update on my polarising foil mod: at last it has gotten warmer where I live and I am set to meet with local foil workshop to make some tests upcoming Monday. They have dust-free chamber. As for now cost would be $50 for 150x50mc polarising foil (which is enoguh for 3 FW-900 displays) and about $30 for their work.
- buy TTL adapter with 3.3V / 5V control and use 5V. I've had some incredible problems with previous adapter without voltage control. Entire calibration would work properly but failed saving, windas showing some unreal values etc.
- use Win 2000/XP/Vista/7/8/8.1. Windows 10 did NOT work. Maybe someone finds a way someday.
- install cracked WinDAS and needed stuff (Step by step installation.)
- set proper COM port
- choose manual generator (otherwise you'll get astro errors)
- choose desired monitor from list (double click to confirm)
- everything should be fine from now on. If you use 5V TTL converter and set everything properly you should have working and stable connection to your monitor
First thing you should do is to save your .dat file. Click File -> Save Data to File. This is your default file that should be kept safe in case you mess up with anything.
Then go through all needed processes. I do geometry, landing, convergence and white point balance.
To properly do WPB follow Spacediver's WPB Guide.
Then I would recommend to use DisplayCAL which is GUI for ArgryllCMS and also has some important options like keeping proper profiles while you connect/disconnect other monitors. Also it has option to automatically download Argryll core files and your Monaco drivers (just remember that you must be in "disable driver signature mode"! How to Disable Driver Signature Verification on 64-Bit Windows 8.1 or 10 (So That You Can Install Unsigned Drivers)). Not only it is time saver but is much more intuitive for most users.
Then use .icm profiles with "Color Profile Keeper". This will let you have proper icm profile in fullscreen games (or at least most of them, I tried with about 100 games and only 3 overrided CPK settings : Dying Light, Company of Heroes 2 and Toybox Turbos).
I know this sounds like a lot of hassle, but trust me, this is probably the best way to handle your CRT monitor.
I'm still thinking of making some huge FAQ containing most important matters and files. IE there is no consolidated Dynamic Convergence guide in this forum, also only widespread white bars pattern is really loose. I did my own pattern with 4 times denser bars and it's much easier to carefully correct convergence issues.
And small update on my polarising foil mod: at last it has gotten warmer where I live and I am set to meet with local foil workshop to make some tests upcoming Monday. They have dust-free chamber. As for now cost would be $50 for 150x50mc polarising foil (which is enoguh for 3 FW-900 displays) and about $30 for their work.
How well does "Color Profile Keeper" work with DisplayCAL's profile loader? Have you run into any conflicts?
popalazarou
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just bought a gdm w900 from ebay. Hope its ok, seems all good so far, going to look at it tomorrow to pick up. I had to retire my gdm fw 900 after it wouldnt come on properly. Ive been using a 22" iiyama vm pro 514. Ive looked at the new asus rog swift tn and i dont think i could handle the wonky build quality and flickering. I hope the ips would be acceptable but its a risk. Also i have only a single titan so i dont think i could max out most of my games. I play ut2k4 a lot so i need a crt. Heres hoping for a nice monitor tomorrow.
any top tips would be welcome, its supposed to be supplied with a bnc cable, is it possible to use that in win 10 64bit?
any top tips would be welcome, its supposed to be supplied with a bnc cable, is it possible to use that in win 10 64bit?
KG-Prime90
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just bought a gdm w900 from ebay. Hope its ok, seems all good so far, going to look at it tomorrow to pick up. I had to retire my gdm fw 900 after it wouldnt come on properly. Ive been using a 22" iiyama vm pro 514. Ive looked at the new asus rog swift tn and i dont think i could handle the wonky build quality and flickering. I hope the ips would be acceptable but its a risk. Also i have only a single titan so i dont think i could max out most of my games. I play ut2k4 a lot so i need a crt. Heres hoping for a nice monitor tomorrow.
any top tips would be welcome, its supposed to be supplied with a bnc cable, is it possible to use that in win 10 64bit?
Grats. Ut2k4. So fun. I made a full weapons mod for that back then, loved that game. I had made them for 2k3, then 2k4 comes out, i played it stock for about one day and then i ported these into 2k4. So i bought it, and then spent the next few weeks redoing everything again. I have doubts that UT4 will be able to match 2004, it's still early but we'll see..
As far as the bnc cable, i never used anything but vga. I bought a quality shielded meaty thick thing with a huge ferrite choke on it. Cost like 6 dollars from cable matters or someplace like that 10 years ago. Nothing penetrates this thing. It's almost a half inch thick, so it's not quite easy to bend :O. It's also hooked through a dvi-vga adapter and i never had any emi interference, moire problems color or sharpness problems with it, still using it.
WFU-WOMD2k4 High powered excessive type.
All re imagined fire modes. More like excessive Quake really as that was my fav, and rocket arena.
0U812 Rocket/Grenade Launcher
DP6 Redeemer
DP6 Redeemer Fire With Jaws Theme sound effect. (You hear it coming.)
zOt! Rifle Extreme Penetration
TT740 Assault Auto Napalm Fire
HA-HC Dualies in 2k4 (Secondary Grenade Fire)
TTHS Hyper Shot Excessive Flak
popalazarou
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Wow that looks excellent I'm hoping to be using the cru utility to set up my tea then I'm back in. Wish there were more servers hosting content like that like in the olden times. Excellent work
Not at all if both have same .icm file pinned to correct display. DisplayCAL does not keep its profile when entering fullscreen app, but only when other .icm is used or any display is attached to PC.
If CPK and DC try to attach different .icm to the same monitor, it would blink every few seconds because both programmes check if .icm is being overwritten every few seconds.
If you do not use fullscreen 3D games, then you should be fine with DisplayCAL.
Hope DisplayCAL would recognize D3D games one day so that CPK would be redundant.
semi-related:
Hello, I just bought a Philips HD CRT TV and I want to ask something... when I turned it on for the first time yesterday there was this big red patch on the left side of the screen. I called the guy that sold it to me and told him that he sold me a bad TV.
So he came today but the thing is, the TV was on when he came 10+ hours with a few shut downs in between. And by the time he came over red patch went almost completely away and I was a bit confused. You could only see a very little discoloration when the TV would go to Bluescreen mode(I don't know what that's called, when everything is disconnected from TV) but yesterday there was a huge patch that could be clearly seen even when watching normal program on TV.
So what was the cause of this patch? I read something about the dust that can get inside of monitor on this thread recently and cause such problems(can't remember what page of this thread) so could that be the problem here? No idea, just guessing...
Hello, I just bought a Philips HD CRT TV and I want to ask something... when I turned it on for the first time yesterday there was this big red patch on the left side of the screen. I called the guy that sold it to me and told him that he sold me a bad TV.
So he came today but the thing is, the TV was on when he came 10+ hours with a few shut downs in between. And by the time he came over red patch went almost completely away and I was a bit confused. You could only see a very little discoloration when the TV would go to Bluescreen mode(I don't know what that's called, when everything is disconnected from TV) but yesterday there was a huge patch that could be clearly seen even when watching normal program on TV.
So what was the cause of this patch? I read something about the dust that can get inside of monitor on this thread recently and cause such problems(can't remember what page of this thread) so could that be the problem here? No idea, just guessing...
jbltecnicspro
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That patch is magnetization. All CRT displays are susceptible to it, especially when they get transported from one location to another. No two locations are the same, and some locations have different electro-magnetic fields than others (caused by all kinds of things). You likely owe that guy an apology for accusing him of selling you a bad TV. All televisions have degausser coils that are active for 10 seconds upon the televison's power-on cycle. Unlike monitors, televisions typically do not have a "degauss" option, so you would have to turn the television off and on every 30 minutes (waiting 30 minutes lets the coils cool down and recharge) to let the coils have their effect on the screen. That's why, 10 hours and a few shut downs later, you are seeing less of the splotch. This will only improve over time, unless you have something in the room causing the magnetization.
Dust does not cause this.
Ah, thanks. Sounds like it works great.
popalazarou
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jbltecnicspro
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Ah, the old W900. I always wanted one of those. Looks beautiful.