24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

Thanks for posting the link! :)

Just to let you guys know, I ended up dismantling my rear-projection CRT television and my wife and I cleaned out the lenses and the mirror. And then I focused the lenses and then did the electronic focus (like on the back of our monitors)... And then! Grayscale calibration and color decoder adjustment...

Holy shit! What a picture. CRT's still kick so much ass it's not even funny.

EDIT: So I'm reading my convergence document. I need to be clear. When you click "READJUST" with the Dynamic Convergence procedure, it will NOT reset your convergence. You won't lose all of your work done with the magenta crosshatch.

Double EDIT: I'm also reading the geometry guide and it's a little technical in some areas and assumes prior CRT knowledge. If there are any questions, please feel free to ask.
 
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no questions, I'd just love to see pics. Though, you can try the CRU profile I used on my Hi-Scan trinitron that you can probably use with your rear projection TV. It had a bunch of modes that worked within the 1080i set's limitations.

I had a 540p resolution, 640x480 with large porches that functioned like 540p to eliminate input lag, and even a 21:9 aspect ratio resolution that cut enough of the horizontal scan rate to allow my TV to run at 72hz. Basically, you needed to keep the vertical refresh between 56 and 72hz and the horizontal between 33 and 35hz

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=45670841144899572554

Let me know if you try it.
 
speaking of rear projectors, does anyone here happen to know some of the higher end sony with a IFB slot that has more then 800 lines? is RVP-6010Q is the only I know is but its 800 lines and are hard to find.

or any CRT besides projectors that take IFB cards?
 
I believe it just interface board, lame I know, they are also called IFB-11. mostly Higher end CRT projectors had them, some one makes these IFB cards which allows 12 bit color and goodies.

I wanted a Rear projection my living room for when im hosting people over, but it looks like the rvp-6010q is the only one that will work.

http://www.moomecard.com/moome/products/item/20-sony-crt-ifb-fullhd-v3

if you want to do your own research.

if only if I could get a barco cine 9 3200x2560 res.
 
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I believe it just interface board, lame I know, they are also called IFB-11. mostly Higher end CRT projectors had them, some one makes these IFB cards which allows 12 bit color and goodies.

I wanted a Rear projection my living room for when im hosting people over, but it looks like the rvp-6010q is the only one that will work.

http://www.moomecard.com/moome/products/item/20-sony-crt-ifb-fullhd-v3

if you want to do your own research.

if only if I could get a barco cine 9 3200x2560 res.

I think you're talking about front projectors and not rear projectors. Rear projection TV's aren't anywhere near as good as front projectors. I have decided that this hitachi will be one of my last televisions as its a gateway drug, so to speak. As good as it is, I'd really love to see a good front projector setup. :)
 
I think you're talking about front projectors and not rear projectors. Rear projection TV's aren't anywhere near as good as front projectors. I have decided that this hitachi will be one of my last televisions as its a gateway drug, so to speak. As good as it is, I'd really love to see a good front projector setup. :)



nope :),
1_1_8257285.jpg


altought its the only I found to 1080p at 800 tv lines. like I said wish I could find a goood barco cine 9. With that maomecard, would love to play with that 180mz bandwidth.
 
Went the DLP rear projector route way back when for TV. Performance outclassed in other ways, but I still like how it hides the pixels across a large screen.

Figure next some kind of front projection or maybe OLED...
 
I heard its possible to make OLED, as fast firing as a CRT in thoery, Honestly if they could ever make a OLED that can play light gun games, I would get rid of every crt I have.

DLP have the rainbow effect issue too. I might forgo the Rear projector, I just need some over 50" for the living room, Im eyeing this barco 9 but its $5000 tricked out with the pony and saddle.

but i think that projector is black tar heroin for me, it will start a addiction :p
 
I heard its possible to make OLED, as fast firing as a CRT in thoery, Honestly if they could ever make a OLED that can play light gun games, I would get rid of every crt I have.

DLP have the rainbow effect issue too. I might forgo the Rear projector, I just need some over 50" for the living room, Im eyeing this barco 9 but its $5000 tricked out with the pony and saddle.

but i think that projector is black tar heroin for me, it will start a addiction :p

I wouldn't do it. I've read that Barco's can have issues. I myself would love to get a front-projector that could easily do 1080p. That would be enough for me. Probably some nice Sony. But then again - I promised my wife that this Hitachi would be our last television. I really want it to be.

Oh - and I don't even have a blu ray player yet. We're still watching DVD. A nice DVD player (Marantz up-scaling), but still DVD nonetheless.
 
what would be the max. cable length for connecting CRT monitor with PC? I read that too long cable will visibly degrade picture.

So is 3m/10ft too long with 1920x1200/85hz resolution?
 
what would be the max. cable length for connecting CRT monitor with PC? I read that too long cable will visibly degrade picture.

So is 3m/10ft too long with 1920x1200/85hz resolution?

I would get a B.N.C cable for that distance.
 
So I'm back in FW900-land. I got one in excellent condition. The HP variant. It seems pretty much perfect condition-wise.
/
So my real question is: How do I keep it that way? How do you know what caps to replace and things like that for different problems such as getting blurrier over time? Is there any guide to maintaining these?
 
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,1161657,00.asp

I've always suspected the ANSI measurement sells CRTs short in that it misses the subtle detailing possible with self-emissive pixels in rendering darker scenes, where internal reflections would hopefully be less of a factor.

For desktop, I use a high contrast theme, applications rendering text and other elements on a black background, which I think plays better to CRT's strengths.

Happy New Year 2016! (I write with monitors made in 2003...)
 
Another consideration is that even if ANSI contrast was the same as VESA contrast, the human visual system would naturally "wash" out subtle details in the darker regions when there's a bright patch nearby.

That said, high ANSI contrast is clearly a good thing :)

Happy new year!
 
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,1161657,00.asp

I've always suspected the ANSI measurement sells CRTs short in that it misses the subtle detailing possible with self-emissive pixels in rendering darker scenes, where internal reflections would hopefully be less of a factor.

For desktop, I use a high contrast theme, applications rendering text and other elements on a black background, which I think plays better to CRT's strengths.

Happy New Year 2016! (I write with monitors made in 2003...)

Happy New Year to you too! I also write this on a monitor made in 2003, with another monitor made in 2004 sitting in a corner. Television made in 2003 behind me, and to my side, another television made in 2003. :D 2003 must have been the last time really good screens were made... (I kid, I kid).
 
So I'm back in FW900-land. I got one in excellent condition. The HP variant. It seems pretty much perfect condition-wise.
/
So my real question is: How do I keep it that way? How do you know what caps to replace and things like that for different problems such as getting blurrier over time? Is there any guide to maintaining these?


Pretty much what spacediver says. I calibrate my screens every 6-12 months.
 
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,1161657,00.asp

I've always suspected the ANSI measurement sells CRTs short in that it misses the subtle detailing possible with self-emissive pixels in rendering darker scenes, where internal reflections would hopefully be less of a factor.

For desktop, I use a high contrast theme, applications rendering text and other elements on a black background, which I think plays better to CRT's strengths.

Happy New Year 2016! (I write with monitors made in 2003...)

Happy new year.

And yeah, the ANSI contrast is lower partially due to halation. When you see a bright white object next to a dark black, you will naturally see halation anyway even if they monitor doesn't have it. Also, your eyes adjust to see the brighter one instead of the darker one. I don't have a problem with CRT contrast really at all.
 
Yep. Which capacitors go bad first and stuff like that

You could probably just look that info up in the service manual. There's a list of electronic parts used.

In general, you shouldn't let the electronics just sit around. Use your monitor regularly. And calibrate it regularly.

It would be a good idea to read up on electronics, learn to test circuits, learn to solder, etc.
 
The best thing you can do is probably keep peak luminance low and G2 at a healthy level. The WinDAS WPB guide covers this.


FW900 for sale in California:

http://ventura.craigslist.org/sop/5380885560.html

Hi, I'm the seller of this monitor - selling it for my wife, who bought it new. It has been well cared for and used for evening/weekend home use. Hoping to find a local, SoCal buyer.

I know this is a discussion thread, not a for sale thread, so feel free to contact me through the CL post if interested.

Thanks!
 
I still have 4 working 21 in CRT. It finally take about 10 year for lcd to catch up in term of resolution but the dot pitch is still real good with CRT as is the input lag...

its too bad they weigh too much and size is too small... and use too much power
 
I still have 4 working 21 in CRT. It finally take about 10 year for lcd to catch up in term of resolution but the dot pitch is still real good with CRT as is the input lag...

its too bad they weigh too much and size is too small... and use too much power

Where do you live? Some of us would be happy to take them off your hands.
 
I would take one more to have a tri setup. Ill be honest its the 3D and Light gun games that keeps these crts for me. onces OLED/any can make a lightgun compatibility tv, ill switch in a heartbeat. :)
 
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I have two HP P1230, one Sony CPD-520GS, one HP Ergo 1600, one Optiquest Q115. Unfortunately only the HP Ergo 1600 and Sony CPD has BNC. The flatscreen HP P1230 has two D-Sub but no BNC ;(.... That leave Optiquest as the shittiest one in my collection...

Was just checking on ebay. These 21 inch are like at least $200 each. Guess they will only get more expensive as time goes on? Like an old nice watch?

Maybe I will save up for an FW900, the ultimate monitor.....
 
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BNC cables are VGA cables but with clunky BNC at one end. The same image quality as VGA but without EDID and need special cable
 
What XoR said also:
That Hp p1230 is a rebrand of mitsu 2070sb which is the pinnacle of CRT tech and it exceeds the FW900 in majority of areas. Unfortunately it's usefulness is limited as it's of 4:3 aspect ratio. Personally, I use it for retrogaming - mostly emulated as it does 240p comparable to the best BVM/PVM sets.
I cannot comment on the quality of the rebrands though as they were produced in china.
 
I have two HP P1230, one Sony CPD-520GS, one HP Ergo 1600, one Optiquest Q115. Unfortunately only the HP Ergo 1600 and Sony CPD has BNC. The flatscreen HP P1230 has two D-Sub but no BNC ;(.... That leave Optiquest as the shittiest one in my collection...

Was just checking on ebay. These 21 inch are like at least $200 each. Guess they will only get more expensive as time goes on? Like an old nice watch?

Maybe I will save up for an FW900, the ultimate monitor.....

honestly these days Unless you need(or just really want) A crt for a special reason,I cant recommend doing it unless you really want it. now a a days anything under 5ms is fine at 60hz, hell there are even sub 1ms 120hz monitor.
plus it seems like you have all the crts you want :p, plus some of those are good monitors, the diamondtron one espically
 
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Didn't know the HP P1230 were that good :). I actually got both on ebay a few yrs ago on a surplus sale. $70 each shipping included. Maybe I ll take them out of the box and give them a spin again. Gonna be hard to find space on desk now that I have also a 40 in 4K TV on the desk...

I thought BNC is better than d-sub for higher resolutions.
 
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There's no difference. A short and thick VGA-DVI cable will do. Monoprice sells one of these iirc.
 
Just hooked up the optiquest and was just blown away by how much faster and more fluid the mouse movement is compared to lcd. Initiating mouse movement and you can so readily tell the lag by lcd.

The desktop on the crt even at 1600X 1200 and 2048 X1500 is so puny compared to my 4K monitor and TV though....
 
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