New Samsung 4k for everyone.

Ok, I've made a decision and I'm going to get the UN40JU7100. I would need a Ergotron arm for it. Could actual owners of this display please tell me if they use a Ergotron arm (or similar solution) and the model?
I see that this display is said to be VESA 200x200. All Ergotron arms that I've seen accept 200x200 screws. Do I need an additional kit? I've had some problems before with another Samsung display.
Thank you very much!!

P.S. I remember that when I bought the Samsung UN32F6300 display even though it said VESA 200x200 compatible and the Ergotron was VESA 200x200 compatible too I couldn't find the right screw until I bought the VESA Bracket Adaptor Kit from Ergotron: http://www.ergotron.com/ProductsDetails/tabid/65/PRDID/649/language/en-US/Default.aspx

Guess I will have to buy said kit again.
 
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Not a John said:
Looks like I've spoke too soon. Got another short blackout yesterday so changing the port was not a solution after all. But it is definitely better than it was before so, as someone mentioned, problem might be in the One Connect box.

Does anyone else keep their AMP turned on ?

I decided to do a small test. I've kept the AMP on clear for the last 10 days to see if I could get used to it. Didn't expect it will grow on me that much. Lag with AMP on was measured to be about 110-120ms and ofc it is noticable but it doesn't bother me that much anymore. Scrolling in browser and moving windows is so smooth. And I enjoy non fps games much more with this motion smoothing bussiness. I find even the movies better with subtle "clear" setting.
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I've posted multiple times stating that I Love gaming on Dynamic with AMP set to standard or clear. The colors really pop and look vibrant. PC mode although 444 Chroma even with entertain mode looks washed out as opposed to using Dynamic. I can't tell one ounce of difference in Lag input, and to my eyes I like the added visual POP!
 
Current promo at Samsung's website on the JS9000 (probably will be honored by Crutchfield as well) now says:

BONUS 40" screen size class LED HDTV (UN40J6200) + My Passport Cinema 4K UHD Movie Storage Device - now through 10/31/15 ONLY!!

The price is still up at $2,299.99 though...
 
Killahurtz said:
hmmm... I must not be susceptible...I sit 2/12 feet away from mine (4.4.4)) and have zero eye strain and zero "flicker"
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That's what I thought too, but it turns out our JS9000's use different PWM wave forms than the lower end models, and thus don't exhibit these symptoms (at least not as much)

I still don't fully grasp the PWM eye strain thing though. I have never seen it, so it is possible that in addition to having a model which is unaffected by the issue, I am also not sensitive to it.
 
Firmware 1422 for the JU6500 is out. I assume this adds HDMI 2.0a / HDR support but I have no way to test it.
 
Zarathustra[H];1041934501 said:
That's what I thought too, but it turns out our JS9000's use different PWM wave forms than the lower end models, and thus don't exhibit these symptoms (at least not as much)

I still don't fully grasp the PWM eye strain thing though. I have never seen it, so it is possible that in addition to having a model which is unaffected by the issue, I am also not sensitive to it.
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ahhh...good info...tanx...I have been trying to weed out my responses so as not to act like "I got it all figured out"...haha , because the JS9000 is the only one I have owned or used.
 
Deadfreak said:
Turn-off issue is related to the one connect box. Get yours replaced by Samsung. I had the same issue and that solved it. If it's happening on a model without a one connect box, i would replace the TV. As for the screen resizing, i noticed that only happens to models without the one connect box. Registry hack is the only solution for that.
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Can you link to the res hack? I tried doing one posted somewhere in this thread before without success. Glad to hear the One Connect resolved your issues. Did Samsung send you a new one or did you take it back to the store you bought it from?
 
Updated to 1422 on my 6700.
No more menu lag!!! :D

I probably won't update again in fear they might break it in the next update. :(
 
Been wanting a 40 inch curved samsung as an upgrade from my 30 inch dell. How do these monitors look when running 2k? I only have a single 980ti waiting for b stock 980ti to get in stock. Was thinking of running 1080p or 2k until then if it doesnt look blurry like any other res other than native looks on here. Also do they do 120hz at 1080p?

If someone could post a pic of a game preferably bf4 running on one of these screens at 1080p, 2k and 4k as a comparison that would be great.
 
I don't have BF4 but I think you'd be OK (at least temporarily) running at 4K...the 980Ti is no slouch.

It doesn't do 120Hz at 1080p, but I believe the Sony XBR43X830C has been confirmed to do so...although it's not curved, and it's IPS (so will have the associated pros and cons there).
 
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Well, my JS9000 was stuck on 1220 forever.

I had auto-updates turned OFF, but would check manually on a regular basis.

Just now mine upgraded automatically without my input to 1422. Let's hope I like it :p
 
chenw said:
Quick question, are any of the TVs listed in the OP flicker free?
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It really depends.

A lot of people can not discern any flicker on any of the models.

If you are sensitive to PWM flicker, the JS9000 is the best as it uses a different waveform that is much harder to detect.

Some people who are hypersensitive to PWM may still be able to pick it up though.

For what it's worth, I've never been able to detect any flicker at all on my JS9000. YMMV.
 
Zarathustra[H];1041936076 said:
It really depends.

A lot of people can not discern any flicker on any of the models.

If you are sensitive to PWM flicker, the JS9000 is the best as it uses a different waveform that is much harder to detect.

Some people who are hypersensitive to PWM may still be able to pick it up though.

For what it's worth, I've never been able to detect any flicker at all on my JS9000. YMMV.
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OK, guess I have a slight misunderstanding on how SS's QD works, I was under the impression that QD, like OLED, was its own light source and didn't need backlight.

How's the contrast on this?
 
chenw said:
OK, guess I have a slight misunderstanding on how SS's QD works, I was under the impression that QD, like OLED, was its own light source and didn't need backlight.

How's the contrast on this?
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The quantum dots are a layer above the LCD panel that just help to enhance color and contrast. The LCD still needs a backlight. OLED has extreme issues with burn-in though, so this is really the best solution next to plasma right now.
 
Actually they are under the LCD. Also the backlight here is totally blue, not white.
 
Quantum dots are created from a UV or blue backlight with an LCD in front, almost like a normal LCD.
Except instead of each RGB pixel stripping off the unused light colours, QD converts the light energy into the correct colour.
They are more efficient because 2/3 of the light energy is not discarded.

Dont look directly at the backlight when it is switched on, you will damage your eyes.
 
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One quick question: Have you play games with your 4K TVs at 1440p? I know the scaler Samsung uses at 1080p is great but was wondering about 1440p. With my 4K monitor I play some games at 4K but with other demanding games (like GTA V) in order to get 60fps I play at 1440p and my Benq 3201PH works perfectly well doing the scaling.
 
insoc123 said:
One quick question: Have you play games with your 4K TVs at 1440p? I know the scaler Samsung uses at 1080p is great but was wondering about 1440p. With my 4K monitor I play some games at 4K but with other demanding games (like GTA V) in order to get 60fps I play at 1440p and my Benq 3201PH works perfectly well doing the scaling.
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For me, every game I've tried it on looks better at 1440p than 1080p on my 40ju6500. Quite a bit better actually, but it still looks rather "soft". As if there is FXAA turned on.

GTA V isn't hard to get 60fps though at 4k. I did it with a GTX 970 oced, with just some graphics turned down. (not even that low). Most settings were on high. Stayed 45-60fps.
 
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Dadius said:
GTA V isn't hard to get 60fps though at 4k. I did it with a GTX 970 oced, with just some graphics turned down. (not even that low). Most settings were on high. Stayed 45-60fps.
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Thanks for the answer. GTA V can't handle SLI well and when I try playing the game with my two GTX 980TI in SLI the games stutters and FPS drops at an horrible rate. I've updated all the drivers, everything is up to date and the problem persists. So playing with just one of the 980TI the only way I can get real smoothness is at 1440p.
 
Dadius said:
For me, every game I've tried it on looks better at 1440p than 1080p on my 40ju6500. Quite a bit better actually, but it still looks rather "soft". As if there is FXAA turned on.

GTA V isn't hard to get 60fps though at 4k. I did it with a GTX 970 oced, with just some graphics turned down. (not even that low). Most settings were on high. Stayed 45-60fps.
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Correct me if I am wrong though, but the TV o ly scales from 1080p.

If you play 1440p, doesn't it remain unscaled?

That being said, Nvidia defaults to scaling on the GPU, so unless you turn it off, you will see scaled content.

May be a moot point, but the reason I bring it up is because we are judging the quality of Nvidia scaling, not of Samsung scaling.
 
I have an issue with audio that I hope you audiophiles can help me with. First off, I'm using a Creative X-fi Titanium on Windows 10 that works great with my setup. I use the analog 7.1 outs that go directly into my Razor 7.1 Tiamat headphones, and it works and sounds great. I use the Toslink out from my soundcard to the Optical in on my Denon receiver, so I can play games when I want to rock the walls in my house and that also works great. Here is my issue. I only have 2 digital inputs for my receiver.

One is Toslink and the other Digital coax. I use the Toslink input as stated for my PC. I want to be able to use my surround speakers when I watch my Vidity UHD 4k Movies from my M-go hard drive. The one connect box does have a digital output on the side, but it is Toslink out. I only have one Toslink input on the receiver and it is being used. I found some Toslink to optical converters online but they seem a little hit or miss as far as functionality.

I tried to use a Toslink cable and went from the one connect box out to the Toslink input on my X-fi soundcard, but I cannot get sound. Getting sound this way even possible? I hope my rambling makes sense. I appreciate any input fellas. BTW-I know I can just use the TV speakers when I watch Vidity 4k movies from my hardrive or when I use the Samsung apps. I just prefer to use my surround speaker setup.


EDIT- WOOT! Got it to work. I just had to disable TV speakers and enable digital audio out in the menu settings... Duh! All is working perfectly now!
 
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Zarathustra[H];1041939052 said:
but the reason I bring it up is because we are judging the quality of Nvidia scaling, not of Samsung scaling.
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Excellent point. The Samsung's scaling is regarded as one of the best out there so when I get my 40JU7100 besides other settings I'm going to disable the scaling of my GPUs.
 
insoc123 said:
Excellent point. The Samsung's scaling is regarded as one of the best out there so when I get my 40JU7100 besides other settings I'm going to disable the scaling of my GPUs.
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It would be interesting to see what effect this has.

If I had to guess, scaling on the GPU would result in slightly lower frame rate (by a tiny amount) but also less input lag. Scaling on th eTV, would offload the GPU, marginally increase FPS, but at the expense of input lag, as now it is done after the signal leaves the video card.

I believe (but I am not certain) that the scaler in the current Samsung TV's will only scale 1080p content. All other content is displayed centered. But I am not sure, I ahve never tested on my own. I just remember reading this.

I wouldn't expect any significant quality difference between 1080p scaling on the GPU and on the TV, as it is a very simple 1 to 4 upscale (likely with some smoothing). That also means that either way do it, it is also likely not a very intensive upscale, so there won't be much added input lag, or much added GPU load from it.

1440p - on the other hand - would require some real interpolation, and that might load the GPU a little more.

Scaling 1440p to 4k, isn't HUGE, but remember, you are doing it (ideally) 60 times per second.
 
Zarathustra[H];1041939052 said:
Correct me if I am wrong though, but the TV o ly scales from 1080p.

If you play 1440p, doesn't it remain unscaled?

That being said, Nvidia defaults to scaling on the GPU, so unless you turn it off, you will see scaled content.

May be a moot point, but the reason I bring it up is because we are judging the quality of Nvidia scaling, not of Samsung scaling.
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Yeah good point. I actually currently have the perform scaling option in Nvidia control panel set to "Display". The other option is "GPU". I have the "select a scaling mode" option set to no scaling. I also have a check in the part for "override the scaling mode set by games and programs". Unless there is another area for this. Does this mean the tv is doing the scaling from 1440p?

Edit: Ok I changed the settings and reapplied them back. After this, 1440p is indeed not scaled by the tv. It is centered with black bars around it. Weird the settings didn't take first time around. I had them the same as I do now for at least a month.

I went back and compared 1080p scaling tv vs GPU. Tv scaling appears to look a bit bettter. However the GPU scaling 1440p, looks better than both, so that's what I am going to use.
 
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insoc123 said:
Thanks for the answer. GTA V can't handle SLI well and when I try playing the game with my two GTX 980TI in SLI the games stutters and FPS drops at an horrible rate. I've updated all the drivers, everything is up to date and the problem persists. So playing with just one of the 980TI the only way I can get real smoothness is at 1440p.
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Let me get this straight. With one GTX 980TI you have to have the res at 1440p to get smoothness? I understand the sli issue, but I played that game at 4k with only a gtx 970, I don't think I ever saw it go below 45 fps and even that was fairly rare. (usually when driving in certain areas). I had some graphics lowered ... Unless you're one of those guys who can't stand a drop to 59fps for even one second and have to have every graphics setting completely maxed?
 
insoc123 said:
Thanks for the answer. GTA V can't handle SLI well and when I try playing the game with my two GTX 980TI in SLI the games stutters and FPS drops at an horrible rate. I've updated all the drivers, everything is up to date and the problem persists. So playing with just one of the 980TI the only way I can get real smoothness is at 1440p.
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Don't use TXAA,or MSAA, and your issue will disappear. Use FXAA if you need AA badly. Any issue should be AA related or a bottleneck elsewhere. I have zero issues with 980 TI SLI in GTA:V.
 
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Zarathustra[H];1041940832 said:
So this is just an external drive with a handful of movies on it?
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Yep, format it later on when you no longer care and its a portable 1TB drive, with the movies included not too shabby for $50. (sure as hell not worth original $400 msrp) Until you blow away their partition it is also considered a valid DRM local container for the pay-to-download 4k services the TV supports. (M-go etc)

There was supposed to be an updated part # with the fancy HDR 4k movies but haven't heard anything lately. Might come out when they release/announce their 2016 models?

I wonder if the 1422 firmware also officially updated the hdmi firmware to 2.0a that allows HDR metadata, since the UHD blu-ray player is coming soon as well.
 
Aluminum said:
Yep, format it later on when you no longer care and its a portable 1TB drive, with the movies included not too shabby for $50. (sure as hell not worth original $400 msrp) Until you blow away their partition it is also considered a valid DRM local container for the pay-to-download 4k services the TV supports. (M-go etc)

There was supposed to be an updated part # with the fancy HDR 4k movies but haven't heard anything lately. Might come out when they release/announce their 2016 models?

I wonder if the 1422 firmware also officially updated the hdmi firmware to 2.0a that allows HDR metadata, since the UHD blu-ray player is coming soon as well.
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The fancy 4k movies you are talking about are the Vidity UHD 4k titles that take advantage of Samsung's SUHD technology. I got a Cinema Harddrive for free when I bought my TV that came with 2 movies but you can go to M-go's website and purchase more, albeit there are only about 26 titles to choose from and most of them are pretty lame....The movies are stunning though when you watch them, and the picture quality is very sharp and crisp
 
Zarathustra[H];1041939052 said:
Correct me if I am wrong though, but the TV o ly scales from 1080p.

If you play 1440p, doesn't it remain unscaled?

That being said, Nvidia defaults to scaling on the GPU, so unless you turn it off, you will see scaled content.

May be a moot point, but the reason I bring it up is because we are judging the quality of Nvidia scaling, not of Samsung scaling.
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If the other sets are anything like my JS8505 then the TV only supports a very few limited resolutions as input: 3840x2160, 1920x1080, 1280x720 and a bunch of low-res PC modes like 1680x1050, 800x600 etc.

So everything between 1080 and 2160, for example 1440, will use GPU scaling and the TV will report 2160 as its input signal regardless of whether the scaling option in the Nvidia drivers is set to "Display" (I can't even enable GPU scaling with my set for some reason but it's still using it for those unsupported resolutions.) I'm not a fan of the TV scaling anyway. It appears sharper but also looks filtered, like playing emulated games with those hqx filters, except worse because there's still a lot of aliasing and blurriness. It just looks weird to me and I'd rather have the neutral softness of the plain GPU scaling.

I also do not have the power to play most new games at full 2160 res and generally use 1440 and it works great in my opinion. Unless it's a game with a lot of small 2D elements, text, icons etc. (like Pillars of Eternity) the loss of sharpness/clarity from upscaling 1440 is not a huge deal.

Another thing of note is also that at the native 2160 the input lag is at least for me low enough even in movie mode, which means you can enable the blur/flicker-reducing function under "Auto Motion Plus" which is disabled in PC/game modes (though you'll have to live with 4:2:0 chroma.) When fed 1080 however the input lag in movie mode makes it unusable.
 
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Thinking of buying the 65JS9000 for PS4 and PC gaming. If I wall mount I could sit about 10 or 11 feet away and could go with the 65". Or I could table mount at 8' and go with the 55". Thoughts? Something tells me that the curve in gaming will be more enveloping if I go with the larger size.


In game mode for consoles, the lag on this tv is obviously excellent at 21 ms. But does it concern you guys that in order to use a PC and display 4K 60 4:4:4 color you must use PC mode which introduces large amounts of lag (I think I read 55 ms). I wonder if a future one connect box will lower the PC mode lag #s or should I perhaps wait for the 2016 model to be released in March? If I ended up using game mode for the PC for 4K and dropped to 4:2:2 color would the colors/visuals take a major hit?

I plan on keeping this tv for a long time, (7+ years). As such, I need to know if I should save some $ with the November Black Friday sales and buy the 2015 model 9000 or wait for the 2016 model?

I read on the 2015 Sony TV Displays thread and some stated the Samsung JS9000 suffered from PWM (pulse-width modulation) motion blurring artifacts. Anyone notice this blurring while gaming?

Thanks.
 
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Frost. said:
Thinking of buying the 65JS9000 for PS4 and PC gaming. If I wall mount I could sit about 10 or 11 feet away and could go with the 65". Or I could table mount at 8' and go with the 55". Thoughts? Something tells me that the curve in gaming will be more enveloping if I go with the larger size.
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I think you can forget about the curve at that distance, it's not going to make any significant difference. I sit about 3 feet away from a 48" and still think I could stand to sit even closer with even more curve to fill my field of vision, but then I wouldn't have anywhere to put my legs.

I love the curve but it's mostly for a personal reason. I have very strong prescription glasses that cause significant distortion on the sides, and the curvature of the screen neutralizes this distortion by going in the opposite direction.

In game mode for consoles, the lag on this tv is obviously excellent at 21 ms. But does it concern you guys that in order to use a PC and display 4K 60 4:4:4 color you must use PC mode which introduces large amounts of lag (I think I read 55 ms). I wonder if a future one connect box will lower the PC mode lag #s or should I perhaps wait for the 2016 model to be released in March? If I ended up using game mode for the PC for 4K and dropped to 4:2:2 color would the colors/visuals take a major hit?
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At 4K 4:2:2 is almost good enough for desktop use, web browsing etc. and I find 4:2:0 is even OK for a lot of games, unless they have very fine, strongly saturated 2D elements, like HUDs and stuff. And if you play games at less than 4K (which you will probably have to do in newer games unless you have a real monster rig) it's going to make even less of a difference. Either way at the distance you were planning to use the TV the chroma subsampling is not going to be an issue at all.

I plan on keeping this tv for a long time, (7+ years). As such, I need to know if I should save some $ with the November Black Friday sales and buy the 2015 model 9000 or wait for the 2016 model?
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As ever, you cannot win this race. When the 2016 models come out they'll be expensive and you'll think "Perhaps I'll wait until Black Friday or some other deal..." and when that finally comes around you'll think "Maybe I should wait for the 2017 model..." And as soon as you do get it, something much better will either be announced or go on sale.

All I can recommend is when/if you finally decide to buy a set and decide to keep it (after thoroughly checking it for issues/quirks that you can't live with), immediately shut your eyes and ears to everything regarding new TVs/displays and just enjoy what you have. :p
 
Pakk said:
All I can recommend is when/if you finally decide to buy a set and decide to keep it (after thoroughly checking it for issues/quirks that you can't live with), immediately shut your eyes and ears to everything regarding new TVs/displays and just enjoy what you have. :p
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its good advice but not advice for everyone. Some people ( myself ) cant sit there without over time focusing on the annoying traits of the image ( glowing, orangey reds through poor sub sampling ) because of all the good bits, you think 'wouldn’t it be amazing if it just didn’t have x,y,z wrong '..
 
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