Philips BDM4065UC - 40" 4K 60Hz monitor thread

I only notice the image retention on the grey backgrounds but yes it is an issue. Doesn't take long for a latent image to show in the background.

So how long does it take for that latent image to go away? I asked about this a few pages back but evidently it got lost in other conversation. Since I'll be using this as a PC display and not a TV, I'll definitely have a fair amount of static content, at the very least the Windows taskbar with the Start button, pinned applications, and the system tray. I lock my workstation out of habit when I leave and I also have a screen saver and a display off timeout, but the OSD apparently warns about leaving static imagery up for 30 minutes, and I'll definitely have times when I'm working longer than 30 minutes at a stretch with the taskbar showing. I assume I'm not alone in this, so I'm curious what the experience of current owners has been. Are you staring at a shadow of your taskbar all the time?

Some more good news for US-based members today, looks like it's coming sooner than we thought. :cool:

Nice, congrats! I ended up cancelling my Amazon order yesterday because I still didn't see an ETA on mine and Overclockers UK got new stock, so I placed another order with them. Mine shipped out today and I should have it Friday afternoon. Fingers crossed that I won't get a DOA! Came out to about $980 all in (compared to Amazon's $1083 or something after tax), though I have yet to see whether I'll owe DHL any customs fees when they deliver it.
 
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Let me bring out a few more quick questions:

1) How can there be burn in on this Philip LCD? This is LCD technology, not plasma. And does enable pixel orbiting fixes the problem?

5) how many of you is stuck at 30Hz and can't go back to 60Hz (assuming you're not overclocking the LCD)

6) since this is really a TV VA panel, why don't we just go buy a TV panel that is 40" UHD? for e.g.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicat...ffiliateID=TnL5HPStwNw-JmJpPKDffP8Cve0ur2agDA

is it only because HDMI is at 30Hz? If so, how soon will nvidia come out w/ a 60Hz HDMI at 4K resolution?

1. LCD can burn in. I burned in an LCD on an old laptop several years ago, although I haven't encountered it or even thought about it since then. I was admittedly surprised to learn about this burn-in warning on this display and the fact that it has a pixel orbiter, but there you have it. Hopefully current owners will chime in more about this. But in any case, a pixel orbiter helps reduce image retention and the risk of burn-in, but unfortunately it's not a guarantee; sometimes you just get a blurrier latent image or burn.

5. I haven't seen anybody permanently get stuck back at 30 Hz if their system should be able to drive the display at 60 Hz. It seems that just power cycling the display or maybe rebooting the system gets 60 Hz back if it fails, which seems to be a rather common issue with 4K displays at the moment. It's probably a combination of early display firmware and GPU drivers since 4K displays are still relatively new.

6. As stated above, the fact that the panel is the same doesn't mean that the electronics are the same. This has DisplayPort so it can accept 60 Hz, it can also do 4:4:4 8-bit color, and won't have the severe input lag induced by all of the fancy 4K upscaling and motion compensation that typical TVs have. Several TVs also only accept limited RGB rather than full range RGB. In fact I read that NVIDIA GPU drivers have an issue that causes any display attached via HDMI to be treated as a TV by default, which causes the GPU to limit output to limited range RGB, even when the display is capable of full RGB: http://www.pcgamer.com/nvidia-cards-dont-full-rgb-color-through-hdmiheres-a-fix/. Maybe a real fix has been incorporated into a very recent driver release, though; I haven't kept up on this story.

HDMI 1.4a can only do 4K @ 30 Hz. HDMI 2.0 will do it at 60 Hz, but that requires that both the GPU and the display support HDMI 2.0, and this display only supports 1.4a, so upgrading your GPU won't make 60 Hz possible over HDMI.
 
Just came across the reference to the plastic tape in the OCUK thread about this display, and somebody mentioned that if you unscrew the back of the display, you can just lift the backing off a bit (no plastic clips or anything) and then remove the tape that way. I'll have to see for myself whether the tape bugs me enough to do that.

Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!


I almost wanted to exchange the monitor cause of the damn stuck bezel sticker which Philips put under the bottom edge. Probably the worst quality control I have ever seen on an expensive monitor, how did this even happen Philips? LOL



It worked-

pLSweq6l.jpg





BIG FYI to anyone getting this monitor-Do NOT attempt to remove the bottom bezel plastic film with out pulling apart the monitor, it will only make it worse.

Good thing, its really easy. Just unscrew all the screws on the back of monitor and the bezel will lift right off, and then the plastic film will come off(and you can unplug the annoying light)
 
Ok yeah tested it, there is frame skipping, used 1000fps camera from my mate, thats sucky but still a fantastic monitor xD.

People, please tell me this:

The windows task bar always sit at the bottom, then we'll all get burn-in / image retention in no time. This sounds like a deal breaker for me, how come noone mention this?
 
I only notice the image retention on the grey backgrounds but yes it is an issue. Doesn't take long for a latent image to show in the background.

how many min. are we talking about?

and how long does the annoying image remains?
 
Do you really not think there would be a difference at 8k? I can tell you from using a 4k DELL 32" vs the Philips 40" 4k, the difference in sharpness is huge. At 40" 4k just doesn't look nearly as sharp, even at 5k it would be a massive upgrade(even more so at 8k). And while Windows doesn't scale properly now, I would bet Win 10 will scale higher resolutions properly(as Apple OSX does now)
My guess is in the next 3-5 years we will see 8k monitors and GPU's that can drive them.

The bottomline of what I am saying is that you can check the difference between the 40" 4K and 8K right NOW. For this you go ta shop which sells Apple Mac computers and see their 27" monitors - an older one and 5K. The 5K monitor has exactly the same pixel density as the 40" 8K monitor would have and, as everybody knows now, the 27"@2560x1440 has the same pixel density as the 40"@4K. The comparison will be thus absolutely valid. So try to check this and tell us how big is the difference. I did this when they had those monitors side-by-side.
 
People, please tell me this:

The windows task bar always sit at the bottom, then we'll all get burn-in / image retention in no time. This sounds like a deal breaker for me, how come noone mention this?

Everything sounds like a deal breaker to you, you have been literally whining for the last 10 pages. Do us all a favor and DONT buy this monitor. :rolleyes:
 
No, I'm seriously thinking of ordering this LCd

So accept you can't get perfect monitor for this price. In fact, there are no perfect monitors for any price since LCD technology is not perfect, this monitor is close to perfect for the price :D.
 
Guys this is the 6 bit color Seiki panel shown at CES. It is CRAP. The Philips was first anyway. It claims the Seiki does 12 bit color, that does not even exist. That article is NONSENSE.

I really wonder which is this Seiki 6 bit 40" 4K panel.
All current 39-41-inch 4K-panels are either 10 bit or 8/10 bit ones.
I really doubt that they are going to use some proprietary 6bit 4K -panels.
http://www.panelook.com/modelsearch...=38.2&inch_high=41&resolution_pixels=38402160
 
People, please tell me this:

The windows task bar always sit at the bottom, then we'll all get burn-in / image retention in no time. This sounds like a deal breaker for me, how come noone mention this?

Despite what anyone has said in this thread, LCD technologies do not burn-in like CRTs or plasmas; in fact, they can't. In CRT/plasmas, the phosphors will literally burn in, which is a permanent physical change to the screen. What happens to LCDs is called "image persistence". They look similar but LCD image persistence is caused residual build-up of electrons. Given enough time, this will dissipate on its own; that can be a lengthy process as the monitor has to be off for as long as it was on with the image, as a run of thumb. Most people will actively attack image persistence, though, with "static" or "fuzzy" screen savers that can have the same impact of dissipating the build-up in a much shorter time; others will use a static white image to try to disperse the built-up electrons. Also, (I am guess the Philips isn't one of these) I have read that many monitors of all techs will use a constant single pixel shift to prevent build-up.
 
Yaps from my experience with a VA monitor I used to have, it's definitely not permanent, and in that specific monitor it only happened to me once, but it was a quick solve a few hours of running one of those "fuzzy" screen things and the problem was solved.
 
Can anyone tell me how far from the center of the vesa mount is from the bottom (or top) of the panel, since I'm still a bit undecided on which stand to get.
So far I'm tempted to go with the humanscale m2 since it's apparently nicer than the LX (no idea if this is true or not, very few opinions online), and the price difference is relatively minor.
The LX has 411mm from the center of the vesa to the table (at maximum height), the humanscale m2 has 461mm from center of vesa to the table, and the LX tall pole has 548mm from center of vesa to the table.
 
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Does this display support 23.976 / 24.000 / 25 / 50Hz with UHD resolutions for smooth movie/eurotv playback? What does Windows show in refresh rate options?

And if it shows picture with these, does it actually show them smoothly or with judder? How about 1080p24/50?
 
Can anyone tell me how far from the center of the vesa mount is from the bottom (or top) of the panel, since I'm still a bit undecided on which stand to get.
So far I'm tempted to go with the humanscale m2 since it's apparently nicer than the LX (no idea if this is true or not, very few opinions online), and the price difference is relatively minor.
The LX has 411mm from the center of the vesa to the table (at maximum height), the humanscale m2 has 461mm from center of vesa to the table, and the LX tall pole has 548mm from center of vesa to the table.

I also thought Human Scale is a much better quality brand. Ergotron is just a popular advertise website, whereas Human scale doesn't advertise much

what's the price difference? and why did you pick M2 rather than M8? As I thought M2 c/w 75 and 100 plate, but it doesn't support 200, whereas M8 does
 
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It's 10€ more than the tall pole one, and about 30€ more than the normal LX, and since if I were to go with the LX I would most likely go with the tall pole one, the difference really is minor.

As for why I picked the M2 instead of the M8, it's all about the price really, the lowest price I was able to find for the M8 still placed it at 60€ more than the M2, adding to that the M8 is only available on amazon next week (not a huge problem but still).
Considering that the monitor falls 0.5KG bellow the 9KG limit of the M2 and that the M2 has a 10 or 15 year warranty (still haven't figured out if it's 10 or 15), I'm betting the M2 will be just fine holding this weight, since to offer that kind of warranty it's almost certain they specked it bellow what it can actually hold, I'm assuming ofc either way the monitor falls bellow.
The M8 is to me only worth the extra money if one actually intends to have an even bigger monitor than this in the future.
 
Damn...a dilemma. I need to get rid of my 30" Dell and fork out another $500-600. Anyone have it sitting on a regular L-desk (mine's glass)? Too big for 2-3 feet away?
 
The bottomline of what I am saying is that you can check the difference between the 40" 4K and 8K right NOW. For this you go ta shop which sells Apple Mac computers and see their 27" monitors - an older one and 5K. The 5K monitor has exactly the same pixel density as the 40" 8K monitor would have and, as everybody knows now, the 27"@2560x1440 has the same pixel density as the 40"@4K. The comparison will be thus absolutely valid. So try to check this and tell us how big is the difference. I did this when they had those monitors side-by-side.

Once again you're neglecting to factor in viewing distance. If you sit farther away from a 40" display than you would from a 27", then the 40" display doesn't NEED the same pixel density to look just as sharp as the 27". If you play with this page, you'll find that a 40" 4K display appears Retina when viewed from 31" away. If you make it 5K, it appears Retina at 21" away, which is probably already closer than is practical for a 40" display. The iMac 5K and a hypothetical 40" 8K both become Retina at 16", but you can't realistically sit 16" away from a 40" display.

But more importantly, why have you been going on about this constantly? We get it, you think it would be awesome to have a 40" 8K monitor. Unfortunately for you, we don't have the display technology, the interconnect, or the GPU to drive it right now, so what is the point of talking about it here? I'd love to have the technology of a Porsche 918 Spyder available in a car that costs $30,000, if we're just sharing our hopes and dreams.

If you want to hold off buying until a 40" 8K display is available, then go ahead. The rest of us actually see the fact that this display is "only" 4K as a benefit because it makes the display usable in Windows without enabling scaling and also allows it to be driven at native resolution and 60 Hz from some laptops.
 
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Despite what anyone has said in this thread, LCD technologies do not burn-in like CRTs or plasmas; in fact, they can't.

[snipped]

Also, (I am guess the Philips isn't one of these) I have read that many monitors of all techs will use a constant single pixel shift to prevent build-up.

Fyi, to your first point, this article mostly agrees with the points in your post, but stops short of claiming that permanent burn-in can never happen, in fact it specifically calls out use as a PC display where the taskbar is displayed constantly as a risk: http://www.techlore.com/article/10099/Do-LCD-TVs-Burn-In-. And once again, I've personally permanently burned an LCD in.

And to your second point, this display has a pixel orbiter. I don't know how many pixels the shift is, but it's there. The question is whether the pixel shift is large enough. For example, the Win8.1 Start button has white rectangles that are more than a few pixels wide, so even with an orbiter some of those pixels will always display white.

I guess all I can do is be on the lookout for this. Hopefully it's not too irritating, but again I have to imagine that if the image retention was absurdly strong that owners would have mentioned it here by now since they've been using them for a while for several hours per day, presumably with the taskbar onscreen for decently long uninterrupted periods.

Would still like to know from owners how long the image retention takes to disappear though.
 
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Damn...a dilemma. I need to get rid of my 30" Dell and fork out another $500-600. Anyone have it sitting on a regular L-desk (mine's glass)? Too big for 2-3 feet away?

The closest viewing distance I've seen mentioned here is 2.5 feet. I actually just got a new adjustable height desk and appreciated that it's 30" deep compared to my previous L-shaped glass desk that was only 24" (not on the diagonal) because even with the keyboard tray extended I thought that would be uncomfortably close for a display this size.
 
The closest viewing distance I've seen mentioned here is 2.5 feet. I actually just got a new adjustable height desk and appreciated that it's 30" deep compared to my previous L-shaped glass desk that was only 24" (not on the diagonal) because even with the keyboard tray extended I thought that would be uncomfortably close for a display this size.

The L-desk I mentioned, I've had for close to a decade now, it's holding up excellent. My next desk will probably be something wood based, and much larger of course. For now, I'd definitely like to get rid of the 30" and grab this thing...I've been all about it since I read about it a few weeks back. I like to sit kind of further back with the keyboard tray all the way out anyway, so I think this'll be fine until my next desk.
 
The L-desk I mentioned, I've had for close to a decade now, it's holding up excellent. My next desk will probably be something wood based, and much larger of course. For now, I'd definitely like to get rid of the 30" and grab this thing...I've been all about it since I read about it a few weeks back. I like to sit kind of further back with the keyboard tray all the way out anyway, so I think this'll be fine until my next desk.

Cool, good luck! The only catch I can think of with a glass desk is that you can't mount an ergo arm to it, so you'll be stuck with the non-adjustable included stand for a while. Someone else here worked around that by putting the display on a platform behind the desk that was slightly shorter than the desk itself in order to lower the effective height of the display, which you may find you want to do. Enjoy!
 
Cool, good luck! The only catch I can think of with a glass desk is that you can't mount an ergo arm to it, so you'll be stuck with the non-adjustable included stand for a while. Someone else here worked around that by putting the display on a platform behind the desk that was slightly shorter than the desk itself in order to lower the effective height of the display, which you may find you want to do. Enjoy!

I noticed that too, lot of talk about the stand only allowing a fixed-position. I might have to rig something up down the road, but I think for now, with how high I sit, it should be fine. Now to find a buyer for my 30". :D
 
Let me bring out a few more quick questions:

1) How can there be burn in on this Philip LCD? This is LCD technology, not plasma. And does enable pixel orbiting fixes the problem?

2) How often does that 30 min burn in warning appears

3) How many of you have burn-in issue, permanent or temporary? because when you people say image retention, by definition, it's temporary. And if so, how long? A few min.? 30 min.?


This burn in issue seems odd, if it makes you feel any better I left my monitor stuck on Hard Forum for 5 hours yesterday and zero burn in or image retention. :)

I wouldn't worry about burn in, this isn't a plasma or OLED
 
This burn in issue seems odd, if it makes you feel any better I left my monitor stuck on Hard Forum for 5 hours yesterday and zero burn in or image retention. :)

I wouldn't worry about burn in, this isn't a plasma or OLED

That must mean something. Reading this forum for just 10 minutes burns an afterimage on my retina.
 
The bottomline of what I am saying is that you can check the difference between the 40" 4K and 8K right NOW. For this you go ta shop which sells Apple Mac computers and see their 27" monitors - an older one and 5K. The 5K monitor has exactly the same pixel density as the 40" 8K monitor would have and, as everybody knows now, the 27"@2560x1440 has the same pixel density as the 40"@4K. The comparison will be thus absolutely valid. So try to check this and tell us how big is the difference. I did this when they had those monitors side-by-side.

Once again you're neglecting to factor in viewing distance. If you sit farther away from a 40" display than you would from a 27", then the 40" display doesn't NEED the same pixel density to look just as sharp as the 27". If you play with this page, you'll find that a 40" 4K display appears Retina when viewed from 31" away. If you make it 5K, it appears Retina at 21" away, which is probably already closer than is practical for a 40" display. The iMac 5K and a hypothetical 40" 8K both become Retina at 16", but you can't realistically sit 16" away from a 40" display. But more importantly, why have you been going on about this constantly? We get it, you think it would be awesome to have a 40" 8K monitor.

You should adress this to somebody else, not to me. I am constantly saying that 8K is marginal, and I am proposing to people who are craving for it testing this on current Mac monitors. Your arguments show this even better so I repeat that 8K is not the first thing one would need for future monitors.

Unfortunately for you, we don't have the display technology, the interconnect, or the GPU to drive it right now, so what is the point of talking about it here? I'd love to have the technology of a Porsche 918 Spyder available in a car that costs $30,000, if we're just sharing our hopes and dreams.

8K will come anyway, both NVidia and AMD are working on it and new connector for 8K has just been standardized. One can expect first 8K monitors appearing even in 2016.
 
Here's an example of burn-in/image retention on Dell 2405FPW, which is a PVA panel. On gray background, in the top edge my desktop icons are visible (you can even read their text, though this picture is too blurry to show that) and you can see a shadow of the black areas from my wallpaper.



IIRC, I noticed it happening after about 5 years of use (now the monitor is 10 years old - one of my best investments of 1200€ :cool:). It happens after the display has been on the desktop for a couple of hours and goes away in maybe a couple of hours if you turn off the display. It's mostly annoying when watching movies with low contrasts scenes, when you can see those shadow shapes in the middle.
 
I really wonder which is this Seiki 6 bit 40" 4K panel.
All current 39-41-inch 4K-panels are either 10 bit or 8/10 bit ones.
I really doubt that they are going to use some proprietary 6bit 4K -panels.
http://www.panelook.com/modelsearch...=38.2&inch_high=41&resolution_pixels=38402160

Read this
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1847674&highlight=seiki

Samsung Vertical Alignment (Super VA) LED panel technology with 3,840 by 2,160 4K Ultra HD resolution
12-bit color processing and 14-bit gamma mode
HDMI 1.4 (HDMI 2.0 in Q2 2015), DisplayPort 1.2 (DisplayPort 1.3 in Q2 2015), MHL 3.0, DVI and VGA standards display connections
Picture-by-picture (x4) and daisy chain mode
USB 3.0 hub (1 upstream and 2 downstream)
VESA-compliant adjustable monitor stand with quick release
8.5ms gray-to-gray pixel response time (40")
9.5ms gray-to-gray pixel response time (32")
6-bit color depth (Definitely a con)
 
Read this
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1847674&highlight=seiki

Samsung Vertical Alignment (Super VA) LED panel technology with 3,840 by 2,160 4K Ultra HD resolution
12-bit color processing and 14-bit gamma mode
HDMI 1.4 (HDMI 2.0 in Q2 2015), DisplayPort 1.2 (DisplayPort 1.3 in Q2 2015), MHL 3.0, DVI and VGA standards display connections
Picture-by-picture (x4) and daisy chain mode
USB 3.0 hub (1 upstream and 2 downstream)
VESA-compliant adjustable monitor stand with quick release
8.5ms gray-to-gray pixel response time (40")
9.5ms gray-to-gray pixel response time (32")
6-bit color depth (Definitely a con)

12-bit processing is not the same as having a 12-bit native panel, which to my knowledge doesn't even exist. 12-bit color exists as Deep Color over in the consumer electronics world, but I haven't seen a PC display that accepts that, a mainstream GPU that will output it, or even content natively authored in Deep Color. Anyway, that line is similar to some AV receivers that for example have 32-bit DACs even though they can't accept 32-bit PCM audio. On the receiver, the extra bits allow you to perform digital volume reduction without losing fidelity on the quiet end (and also might help on native analog audio inputs), and on a display I imagine those extra processing bits just allow dithering to be performed with greater precision and better results. As far as we know at this point, the Seiki is a native 6-bit panel.

Here's an example of burn-in/image retention on Dell 2405FPW, which is a PVA panel. IIRC, I noticed it happening after about 5 years of use (now the monitor is 10 years old - one of my best investments of 1200€ :cool:). It happens after the display has been on the desktop for a couple of hours and goes away in maybe a couple of hours if you turn off the display. It's mostly annoying when watching movies with low contrasts scenes, when you can see those shadow shapes in the middle.

Ah, the venerable 2405FPW. I bought that monitor when it was first released. And thanks to this very forum actually, I learned that even though its launch price was $1199, people were getting it for $899 by calling Dell reps, so I did the same and got the same deal. :cool:

That was back in late 2008 when I was a college freshman, and I remember all of my floormates in the dorm being stunned at what a gigantic monitor I had because if memory serves, the 2405FPW was the first widely available 24" display on the market at a time when 17-19" was the norm. Now 24" looks standard issue and we're looking to 40" to recreate that same sense of wonder. How times change.

Agreed on the quality of that particular investment though! My two other favorite tech investments have been my 50" Pioneer Kuro TV, which I purchased in early 2009 and actually got more expensive later due to Pioneer announcing that they were getting out of the plasma game and the fact that there wasn't any other TV like it, and then I bought a 256GB Samsung SSD in early 2010 for $400 which subsequently jumped up to $750 during a major NAND supply shortage. The SSD is gone, but I still have the Kuro. It took until late 2013, almost 5 years later, before Panasonic released a TV (the ZT60) that reviewers agreed had better picture quality than the Kuro. Before that, every review of the best-looking TVs from 2009 through 2013 read, "Picture quality is great, but not quite on par with our reference Kuro." It's amazing to me how ahead of its time that thing was. :D
 
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It's 10€ more than the tall pole one, and about 30€ more than the normal LX, and since if I were to go with the LX I would most likely go with the tall pole one, the difference really is minor.

As for why I picked the M2 instead of the M8, it's all about the price really, the lowest price I was able to find for the M8 still placed it at 60€ more than the M2, adding to that the M8 is only available on amazon next week (not a huge problem but still).
Considering that the monitor falls 0.5KG bellow the 9KG limit of the M2 and that the M2 has a 10 or 15 year warranty (still haven't figured out if it's 10 or 15), I'm betting the M2 will be just fine holding this weight, since to offer that kind of warranty it's almost certain they specked it bellow what it can actually hold, I'm assuming ofc either way the monitor falls bellow.
The M8 is to me only worth the extra money if one actually intends to have an even bigger monitor than this in the future.

but the M2 doesn't support 200x200 plate, looks like only M8 does
 
but the M2 doesn't support 200x200 plate, looks like only M8 does

Neither does the Ergotron, which is why we've been talking about VESA mount adapter plates. Monoprice probably has the least expensive one around and it's still apparently very solid (although it's silver), and Mount World (sold on Amazon), which is the one I bought, is essentially the same thing in black at a steeper price -- what can I say, I'm a sucker for aesthetics sometimes. Both of those options include various sizes of bolts and washers to make sure they can be used with your display, as any good adapter would. That's important with this display because it uses M4 bolt holes even though the standard 200x200 hole size is M6, so depending on the size of the heads on the M4 bolts you use, you may need to use washers to prevent the bolt heads from being pulled through the larger holes on the adapter plate. But of course appropriate bolts and washers can be obtained at any local hardware store too if the plate doesn't include what you need. Fortunately for me, the Ergotron arm I bought comes with M4 twist knobs, and the knob is large enough to prevent it from being pulled through the bolt hole, no washers required.

Anyway, as long as the arm is rated for this display's weight and has enough vertical travel, you should be good. The center of this display is roughly 10" from the bottom, so you'll want an arm whose center can be at least 12" above the desk, I imagine.

And on a general note, I know this thread is rather long now, but you might consider skimming through it nonetheless. Most of the questions you've been asking have already been answered, often multiple times.
 
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Neither does the Ergotron, which is why we've been talking about VESA mount adapter plates. Monoprice probably has the least expensive one around and it's still apparently very solid (although it's silver), and Mount World (sold on Amazon), which is the one I bought, is essentially the same thing in black at a steeper price -- what can I say, I'm a sucker for aesthetics sometimes. Both of those options include various sizes of bolts and washers to make sure they can be used with your display, as any good adapter would. That's important with this display because it uses M4 bolt holes even though the standard 200x200 hole size is M6, so depending on the size of the heads on the M4 bolts you use, you may need to use washers to prevent the bolt heads from being pulled through the larger holes on the adapter plate. But of course appropriate bolts and washers can be obtained at any local hardware store too if the plate doesn't include what you need. Fortunately for me, the Ergotron arm I bought comes with M4 twist knobs, and the knob is large enough to prevent it from being pulled through the bolt hole, no washers required.

Anyway, as long as the arm is rated for this display's weight and has enough vertical travel, you should be good. The center of this display is roughly 10" from the bottom, so you'll want an arm whose center can be at least 12" above the desk, I imagine.

And on a general note, I know this thread is rather long now, but you might consider skimming through it nonetheless. Most of the questions you've been asking have already been answered, often multiple times.

I never use robot arm. Since the LCD is 200 x 200. Does an adapter, by that you mean 200 to 100, safe? I would be interest in seeing it in action
 
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Here's an example of burn-in/image retention on Dell 2405FPW, which is a PVA panel. On gray background, in the top edge my desktop icons are visible (you can even read their text, though this picture is too blurry to show that) and you can see a shadow of the black areas from my wallpaper.



IIRC, I noticed it happening after about 5 years of use (now the monitor is 10 years old - one of my best investments of 1200€ :cool:). It happens after the display has been on the desktop for a couple of hours and goes away in maybe a couple of hours if you turn off the display. It's mostly annoying when watching movies with low contrasts scenes, when you can see those shadow shapes in the middle.

Exactly where is it? As that wallpaper looks normal, I don't see anything wrong w/ it

regardless, are you saying it happens 5 yr. from the day you bought it? If so, 5 yr. is good enough for me. In 5 yr., something better will come along
 
anyhoo, on page 2 of the Philips manual, it says you should use a "Periodic screen refresh application"

are they referring to pixel orbiting? Or there is some sort of windows application on that?
 
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