34" 21:9 UltraWide Displays (3440x1440) - LG UM95/UM65 & Dell U3415W

You can now pre-order the curved one at Amazone.de. The price is around the same like when the LG 34UM95 first time release (1.100EU).
 
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finally mine arrived is fantastic no dead pixel there is little glow in botton left corner that i can see it only in black with low light and i believe the most will disappear after calibrationn....best buy ever hopefully because i was worried.l!!
 
What a fantastic monitor! The aspect ratio is so immersive, and the ability to have so many things displayed at the same time is great!
However my monitor also suffers from backlight bleed, and unfortunately I would properly have to return it. Nothing that ruins daily usage in a lid room, but just the thought of having paid such a premium price for a product and then having this error. No I just won't be able to live with that thought. It's a real shame as I've already within 24hours of usage fallen in love with this monitor. The design, resolution, aspect ratio, etc... I will have to wait for the AOC/Dell versions to be released, or even the curved, even though I'm not a fan of the curved designs.

Also there are many reviews on amazon giving this display 4+ rating. Are they just not aware of the possibility of backlight bleed, or is this problem not that major even though many have tried rma'ing unsuccessfully several times?

What did you guys conclude with your backlight bleeding 34um9X?

A picture of my monitor:
BZ7uu8J.jpg
 
crossing fingers for mine. think i'm in the next batch for shipment from massdrop.
 
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@happidane

Most people have no idea what backlight bleed is or even what IPS glow is. These monitors are advertised as "for professionals" and sadly, they don't live up to that claim. They are $1000 and yet the quality control reeks. I would not settle for that kind of glow.

If it was uniform, then you wouldn't notice it much, but the glow plus the non-uniformity is a huge issue. I could see the yellow glow while I was at the desktop screen even when I had my curtains opened and the sun shining through. When I tried watching movies, any scene that didn't have bright colors near the edge and corners looked bad.

Most of the reviews on Amazon are from people who bought the monitor, turned it on once and wrote the review without so much as doing a thorough check.
 
Hey. Been lurking this forum for a while, reading various comments on the 34UM95.

Couldn't take it any more, so I ordered one myself last weekend and got it on Tuesday. In terms of monitor performance I've been incredibly happy with it. It's sick for movies.

However, I've been noticing these 'clicking' noises on a semi-often basis (it keeps coming from the left-hand side, sounds a bit like the plastic is moving). Sometimes it's every 15-30 seconds, sometimes it can be several minutes between each time. I've googled the issue and it seems like this is maybe a problem with other LG monitors too, but I wanted to ask in here as there are so many other 34UM95 owners.

Have anyone else experienced this with their sample (mine was built in July)? If yes, have you kept yours or returned it for a new sample? Is it a common issue?

Aside from this clicking noise I don't really have any significant issues. The amount of IPS glow on mine is acceptable.
 
Have anyone else experienced this with their sample (mine was built in July)? If yes, have you kept yours or returned it for a new sample? Is it a common issue?

Aside from this clicking noise I don't really have any significant issues. The amount of IPS glow on mine is acceptable.

Nope....try changing the DP to whatever one you are not using....IE from 1.2 to 1.1 or visa versa.
 
Sleep is for the bitches fellas, so here is a quick shot of the two 34UM94-P I received from the MassDrop group buy (according to the frames, both manufactured in August 2014 - Rev. 02). Both screencaps were taken directly head on and level with the center line of the monitor, in a pitch black room, blinds shut, other monitor off, at 40% brightness.Overall I'd have to say I'm pleased with what I got - the bleeding is not terrible and half of it seems to be a bit of IPS glow. Also, remember the camera exaggerates and creates a false blurring effect because the black screen was achieved via playing this video. To top it off, even at 40% brightness, two of these side by side about 3.5-4 feet from my face like looking into a pair of Suns - so I might drop the brightness levels further if my eyes start to scream for mercy.

Monitor #1
1796955_10202791382885436_1908931744591096237_o.jpg


Monitor #2
10608501_10202791383445450_6537912405646905324_o.jpg


Desktop (just because)
10603973_10202791383205444_1532191196815493094_o.jpg



Your guy's thoughts on the quality of monitors I got?
 
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EDIT: Fixed (I think) the image links. Unfortunately the work network likes to block and prevent images from loading so I'm not sure if the images actually pop up on the forum or not - I did confirm the links to work however,
 
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EDIT: Fixed (I think) the image links. Unfortunately the work network likes to block and prevent images from loading so I'm not sure if the images actually pop up on the forum or not - I did confirm the links to work however,

Still broken. lol.
 
Your guy's thoughts on the quality of monitors I got?

I'd be happy with those. Both appear very acceptable.. especially compared to some of the horrible black screen photos posted here.
 
I'd be happy with those. Both appear very acceptable.. especially compared to some of the horrible black screen photos posted here.

Yea, I was quite pleased when I initially loaded up the test video and watched it. Even at 100% brightness I found it above average compared to some of the pics here. In fact, with a little Google Image searching: this is comparable to what mine looks like when I crank the brightness to 100% - mine at 100% might be a hair or three brighter on the right hand side - all in all definitely far from many of the pictures that have been posted here.
 
Yea, I was quite pleased when I initially loaded up the test video and watched it. Even at 100% brightness I found it above average compared to some of the pics here. In fact, with a little Google Image searching: this is comparable to what mine looks like when I crank the brightness to 100% - mine at 100% might be a hair or three brighter on the right hand side - all in all definitely far from many of the pictures that have been posted here.

Definitely looks like they put more quality control effort on the 34P versions due to their longer warranty. Glad you were able to get both monitors without too much issues so far. I hope the same for everyone else yet to receive theirs. So far only one person had issues but it isn't confirmed to be blacklight bleed. Could just be incorrectly capturing IPS glow as backlight bleed.
 
Sleep is for the bitches fellas, so here is a quick shot of the two 34UM94-P I received from the MassDrop group buy (according to the frames, both manufactured in August 2014 - Rev. 02). Both screencaps were taken directly head on and level with the center line of the monitor, in a pitch black room, blinds shut, other monitor off, at 40% brightness.Overall I'd have to say I'm pleased with what I got - the bleeding is not terrible and half of it seems to be a bit of IPS glow. Also, remember the camera exaggerates and creates a false blurring effect because the black screen was achieved via playing this video. To top it off, even at 40% brightness, two of these side by side about 3.5-4 feet from my face like looking into a pair of Suns - so I might drop the brightness levels further if my eyes start to scream for mercy.

...

Your guy's thoughts on the quality of monitors I got?

you're right on with the monitor brightness. on an x-rite idisplaypro:

around 120cd/m2 luminance, I ended up with ~48 brightness on the OSD

I highly suggest anyone actually living with it at full brightness to turn it down - WAY too bright, especially if your room is dark
 
you're right on with the monitor brightness. on an x-rite idisplaypro:

around 120cd/m2 luminance, I ended up with ~48 brightness on the OSD

I highly suggest anyone actually living with it at full brightness to turn it down - WAY too bright, especially if your room is dark

I second this. You'll notice the black light bleed in the corners pretty much goes away if you aren't at 100 brightness. I turned it down to 40 and it is actually comfortable on the eyes.
 
forgot to mention, some people like 100cd/m2 for luminance, which I think ended up with about a ~30 or mid 20's value for the OSD brightness (can't remember exactly, was just too dark for my tastes). This was too dark for my preference, but ~48 feels right

again, every panel is different - those are just references. try both - ANYTHING is better than the default 100
 
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Your guy's thoughts on the quality of monitors I got?


Looks good to me, my UM95 looks similar.

I've got my brightness at 20, calibrated at 100 cd/m2. It's plenty bright. I tried 120cd/m2 for a week and ended up re-calibrating as it was too bright for me.
 
What do you guys use for a calibration tool and how much does one typically cost? I'm definitely thinking about going the extra mile with the UM94s and I'm curious about what kind of tool I need to fully do that. Also, has anybody loaded and used the software that came with the monitor?
 
Mine is calibrated to 120cd/m2.I thought it was 100cd/m2, but on second look it's not. After trying 100cd/m2 out briefly, it's really just too dim for my liking, but maybe that's because I have low/little ambient lighting?

In either case, that's kinda why I suggested that one guy with horrible panels try and see how bad it is after calibration. Not because it's going to fix the worst of problems, but because the default brightness can make things look worse than they really are.

What do you guys use for a calibration tool and how much does one typically cost? I'm definitely thinking about going the extra mile with the UM94s and I'm curious about what kind of tool I need to fully do that. Also, has anybody loaded and used the software that came with the monitor?

I recommend http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-EODIS3-i1Display-Pro/dp/B0055MBQOW if you can afford one or find one for a good price. A much cheaper alternative is http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Display-Calibrator-Displays-Version/dp/B000JLO31M , but it looks like Amazon Marketplace doesn't have a lot of those at the moment. I wouldn't spend more than $70 on the i1 Display 2, just because of its limited features. It's a big step up from calibrating by eye, even if it doesn't quite compete with i1 Display Pro.

You can do wonders just by using http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ until you can afford a colorimeter though. Try that out first, since that alone will tell you to turn down brightness to 30-35.
 
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Hmm, it's not so much affording one as it is actually buying one for the sole purpose of calibrating two screens tht otherwise look pretty good (to my eyes at least). I really don't do professional work on them...just personal video editing/rendering/encoding of gameplay/streams. Maybe I'll convince someone to get me one for X-mas, but I do appreciate the response.
 
I'm in the same boat, but if you have friends/family you can always keep it around to calibrate theirs. Keep in mind these can also be used for HDTVs depending on your model.

Either that or do like others and either A) resell it after using, or B) use it to make money, which lessens the cost.
 
I bought an i1 DisplayPro purely because of this monitor (but used it on all 4 of mine obviously)

I just sold it on ebay - it wasn't worth it, and I don't think it's worth it for most normal consumers (key word before others jump to disagreement - NORMAL consumers)

what people have to remember is that the main concept of calibrating monitors is to match your printer - to not waste hours of photo editing just to end up with something different on your printer

for the purposes of using the monitor/gaming, color differences are more minute. there is no end goal definitive comparison to a printed picture. the end goal is your eyes and if it's pleasing to your eyes.

this is where it's a huge gray area. it's sort of like audio. do you find the current settings displeasing to your eyes? is it making your experience unpleasant? how do you know it's dis-pleasant to you? what would be considered correct? you're not going to print out a screenshot and compare - hell the look in comparison to the print doesn't matter to you. What makes "correct" colors more pleasing to you? the fact that some standard tells you that they are correct? What was so wrong about the settings before calibration? are the LG factory color settings SO bad that it was hurting your ability to enjoy the monitor?

I also wanted to justify a calibrator because of the hardware LUT in this monitor...BUT - LG's software is not perfect. LG's software 100% DOES NOT WORK if you have more than two monitors. The software simply doesn't find the monitor anymore, but the monitor still works (as far as display). It's pretty obvious that whoever wrote the software didn't write it in a way to check for more than two displays imo

but I've tried LG support 5 times - they're all completely clueless and blame me on everything. They even say their software will only work if the LG is the only connected monitor to the system.

Combine both of the above facts.......and I just decided to ebay my i1 DisplayPro. Hope that helps you in your decision. I say it's not worth the cost for most normal consumers
 
I had some quick questions and comments about this monitor that might have been asked and answered in the original thread, so please forgive me.


  1. What is the best way to purchase this Monitor as I am in Canada (Edmonton)? at a good price? what is a good online or instore place?
  2. Is the difference between 34UM95 and 34UM94 only the 3 year warranty on the 94 and 1yr warranty on the 95? Which one will I be able to get in Canada?
  3. I only read last few pages of the original thread, and it had people posting their light bleed pictures, how common is this problem? How can I ensure I get a good monitor that doesn't have these problems? date of mfg?
  4. I have Lenovo Yoga 2 Pro 13.3" (Intel Core i7-4500U | 256GB SSD | 8GB RAM | Windows 8.1) Would this ultrabook be able to run this monitor? I will mainly run HD bluray movies via VLC or MPCHC. Photoshop, Lightroom, Premier, AI, Word, browse internet.
  5. What are some inconveniences or problems I can expect from this monitor, other than the light bleed?
  6. Anything else I need to know about this monitor?

Thanks again guys, I really appreciate it.
 
Anyone know how to get the Colormunki to work with the internal calibration? I have one and I had to use the software that came with it because the monitor would not find a device attached. As far as I know the Colormunki is the same device as the iDisplaypro, just the software is different.
 
I bought an i1 DisplayPro purely because of this monitor (but used it on all 4 of mine obviously)

I just sold it on ebay - it wasn't worth it, and I don't think it's worth it for most normal consumers (key word before others jump to disagreement - NORMAL consumers)

Totally agree. If you're just playing games and casually browsing the web, there isn't much reason to calibrate. Unless the factory calibration bothers you for some reason.

The one major exception here is people with two monitors: If you have two different monitors side-by-side, the differences in calibration are often too strong to ignore. Calibrating can usually close that gap quite well and make the two match fairly closely.

what people have to remember is that the main concept of calibrating monitors is to match your printer - to not waste hours of photo editing just to end up with something different on your printer

for the purposes of using the monitor/gaming, color differences are more minute. there is no end goal definitive comparison to a printed picture. the end goal is your eyes and if it's pleasing to your eyes.

Not quite. If you're doing any sort of color-sensitive work, you need a calibrated monitor. This goes beyond just printing. Web development, photo editing for online posting, etc.

The end goal is to match a known standard in these cases.

But again, if you're just playing games or doing casual activities then you can certainly just go with whatever is most pleasing to your eyes.

I also wanted to justify a calibrator because of the hardware LUT in this monitor...BUT - LG's software is not perfect. LG's software 100% DOES NOT WORK if you have more than two monitors. The software simply doesn't find the monitor anymore, but the monitor still works (as far as display). It's pretty obvious that whoever wrote the software didn't write it in a way to check for more than two displays imo

but I've tried LG support 5 times - they're all completely clueless and blame me on everything. They even say their software will only work if the LG is the only connected monitor to the system.

Doh, that's bad. :(
 
The one major exception here is people with two monitors: If you have two different monitors side-by-side, the differences in calibration are often too strong to ignore. Calibrating can usually close that gap quite well and make the two match fairly closely.

eh - I guess. I think this LG monitor is much higher quality than what most people would be using as their accessory monitor - so it's always going to feel different, which makes the hassle of matching colors between two different calibers of monitor too much trouble imo (if that makes any sense the way I said it)
Not quite. If you're doing any sort of color-sensitive work, you need a calibrated monitor. This goes beyond just printing. Web development, photo editing for online posting, etc.

The end goal is to match a known standard in these cases.

...

Doh, that's bad. :(

I guess so - but imo those people don't need to be convinced/sold on color calibration

but yeah, we both agree on the same conclusion so whatever :)

I really tried to justify the money I spent on it - I really did. but after finding LG's software being completely..."incomplete"....and having to switch to "manual" calibration with the OSD myself, I just really quit drinking the Kool-Aid on believing it was instantly and 100% making my experience better (compared to living under that mindset when using the hardware LUT)....what was this ~$200 piece was doing for me personally?

it did sell quickly on ebay however - I really didn't expect there to be any market for this kind of product. plenty of stupid people trying to lowball me or just trying to be cheap (offering $10 less than what it's listed for), but eventually someone bought it and made everyone else trying to save a few bucks feel stupid :)
 
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For those of you using the UM95 for gaming: What GPU do you use / would you recommend in order to play games with an acceptable amount of FPS (and not having to turn everything down to low)? Would a single strong GPU be enough or do you need SLI / Crossfire?
 
For those of you using the UM95 for gaming: What GPU do you use / would you recommend in order to play games with an acceptable amount of FPS (and not having to turn everything down to low)? Would a single strong GPU be enough or do you need SLI / Crossfire?

It depends on how high you want your in-game settings. I have SLI GTX 780 Ti's because I wanted some head room to run games with very high image quality at 60FPS or higher. But you could easily run with only one GTX 780 or 780 Ti.
 
For those of you using the UM95 for gaming: What GPU do you use / would you recommend in order to play games with an acceptable amount of FPS (and not having to turn everything down to low)? Would a single strong GPU be enough or do you need SLI / Crossfire?

I currently have a single 680 running over DP (60Hz) at 3440x1440. It does the job....but I can definitely tell the difference between how much it struggles trying to do my 1080p settings at 1440p. Basically I had to resort to FXAA at the most, turn off motion blur (it's stupid to leave it on in most cases anyway), and turn shadows and reflections down 1 level from the highest setting in most of the games I play in order for it to be comparable frame rate wise.

TLDR: A single, powerful GPU will run games just fine on it without having to turn stuff down to shit tier quality settings. But you will pay the price in fan noise and temperatures.

My advice - wait a week for the 980 to release and snag it if its at $500, if not a 970 should still beat anything from the previous two generations except the GK110 cards or a 690 handily and be around $400.
 
I built a new rig basically around the new 4790k CPU and the UM95 monitor. I went with two Sapphire 290x Tri-X OC to make sure it could handle anything I throw at it for the next 2-3 years. Rig is in sig.
 
I think I will wait for another MassDrop but for anyone interested BH Photo has the LG34UM94P in stock now - $999.
 
I think I will wait for another MassDrop but for anyone interested BH Photo has the LG34UM94P in stock now - $999.

I would but the curved one is so tempting when it's around the corner. They have it on Ebay right now and it said dispatch on Sept 24 but it's $1500 so I guess I'll wait. :rolleyes:
 
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Hey. Been lurking this forum for a while, reading various comments on the 34UM95.

Couldn't take it any more, so I ordered one myself last weekend and got it on Tuesday. In terms of monitor performance I've been incredibly happy with it. It's sick for movies.

However, I've been noticing these 'clicking' noises on a semi-often basis (it keeps coming from the left-hand side, sounds a bit like the plastic is moving). Sometimes it's every 15-30 seconds, sometimes it can be several minutes between each time. I've googled the issue and it seems like this is maybe a problem with other LG monitors too, but I wanted to ask in here as there are so many other 34UM95 owners.

Have anyone else experienced this with their sample (mine was built in July)? If yes, have you kept yours or returned it for a new sample? Is it a common issue?

Aside from this clicking noise I don't really have any significant issues. The amount of IPS glow on mine is acceptable.

Been keenly observing this issue for a few days now and it almost seems as if the clicking is much much less frequent when the monitor is running at 50Hz. Could it be a DP 1.2 issue? Does HDMI really not support the max res at 60Hz?
 
Been keenly observing this issue for a few days now and it almost seems as if the clicking is much much less frequent when the monitor is running at 50Hz. Could it be a DP 1.2 issue? Does HDMI really not support the max res at 60Hz?

I recall some people reporting a 'pop' noise when DP 1.2 was enabled. Try disabling it?

Many people seem to have issues with the monitor when DP 1.2 is on;. I recommend just turning it off, as there's very little benefit to leaving it on.
 
Well, I received my 34um94-p and it was a revision 01 made in May. Unfortunately, it had pretty bad backlight bleed like the 95 series. I am going to try and do an exchange with LG as the stock is out from were I purchased it. Has anyone had any luck on doing an exchange with LG?
 
Another minor update on the AOC U3477Pqu..

It appears that a follow-up press release was issued yesterday, and is bouncing around the French hardware sites (TomsHardware, Cowcotland, etc) stating that "it's finally here" and that MSRP is €750, with a street price of €650 at launch.



More napkin math.. €650 street-price is ~20% cheaper than current Euro 34UM95 street-price. By that logic (which doesn't necessarily translate), an equivalent discount on the US 34UM95 would lead to a street-price of $800 for the AOC in the US. Which still seems way too high-priced for their brand recognition vs LG over here (ie, $50 less for the AOC just isn't cheap enough vs the UM94 from Massdrop imo).

Anyway.. probably all meaningless. Still no US details from AOC :rolleyes:
 
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