34" 21:9 UltraWide Displays (3440x1440) - LG UM95/UM65 & Dell U3415W

Nope but where there's a will there's a way ;D


Tesco black scouring pads, not just for cleaning dishes ;)

bezelmatte_1.jpg
 
The warranty covers the internal components, this is no different to slapping masses of stickers on your bezel or casing! Your rights to warranty should still be covered if your panel stops powering up or whatever one day. It's up to LG to prove that by brushing the outer thin glossy bezel you broke the internal panel... Which isn't going to happen. That's if the service centre even notices the matte bezel in the first place.

Number of ways to get a matte bezel.

1: Black electrical tape along the bezel and Stanley Knife off any excess.
2: Scotch Tape instead if you want to retain the logo.
3: Scouring pad which does a proper job but takes a lot longer. Masking tape the chrome parts and lower panel for protection and just sideways buff until you get a finish you are happy with. It should end up looking like it came out of the factory all nice and matte and stealthy.
 
robbiekhan said:
1: Black electrical tape along the bezel and Stanley Knife off any excess.
2: Scotch Tape instead if you want to retain the logo.
3: Scouring pad which does a proper job but takes a lot longer. Masking tape the chrome parts and lower panel for protection and just sideways buff until you get a finish you are happy with. It should end up looking like it came out of the factory all nice and matte and stealthy.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I will try it!
 
I have 1 day left to decide if I want to return my monitor to Costco (I paid $1053), and get the Massdrop one.

- My monitor has minor bleeding in 2 corners, only noticeable during extremely dark scenes and you have to stare for it. It also has an issue where there's a tear (or "desync") down the center of the screen for a split second every now and then, happens every few hours while gaming and has happened on the desktop once or twice. Only one other user has reported the same not sure if firmware or faulty.
- If I return it and the Massdrop version of the monitor is worse in anyway, I have to go through LG for warranty. They may send me a refurb or even worse monitor in return.
- Massdrop version has 3 year exchange warranty and likely has better QC due to being the non-consumer line, Costco is 2 year refund policy on the monitor.
- Saves me $200.

What to do...
 
Anyone using Windows 8 with this monitor using displayport? When you turn the monitor off/on, does it re-arrange the windows to a default location? It would've been good if they included a DVI port as displayport can have some issues like that.
 
prolific71 said:
Anyone using Windows 8 with this monitor using displayport? When you turn the monitor off/on, does it re-arrange the windows to a default location? It would've been good if they included a DVI port as displayport can have some issues like that.
Click to expand...

I use this monitor with Server 2012 R2 primarily, but I also run Windows 8.1 and Windows 7 for testing purposes and when working on other boxes. Not once had windows rearrange themselves on me, and I turn my monitor on & off whenever leaving rig idle for long periods of time. I always use DisplayPort because HDMI doesn't support full 60hz at 3440x1440, and I've never had a reason to test Thunderbolt even though my mobo has it (but I'm not sure if it's the newer TB required for this monitor -- would have to see if it came with a TB cable).

I use the DisplayPort cable that came with the 34UM95, though I do have others and they worked fine when I've had to use them.

Here's my setup (more details in my signature link if you need):

GPU: Sapphire 290X Trifire
Driver: 14.4
Motherboard: ASUS Maximus V Extreme
Monitor Version: Rev .02
 
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Yeah, I was under the impression that only DP would support the native resolution of this monitor @ 60hz. I think the max for DVI is 2560x1600 @ 60hz, so it wouldn't work anyway. Ditto for HDMI, as far as I know. Only DP can support the bandwidth.
 
imyourzero said:
Yeah, I was under the impression that only DP would support the native resolution of this monitor @ 60hz. I think the max for DVI is 2560x1600 @ 60hz, so it wouldn't work anyway. Ditto for HDMI, as far as I know. Only DP can support the bandwidth.
Click to expand...

Not only DP, but Thunderbolt as well. Doesn't help most people unless you're running a Mac though (or have a higher end mobo with Thunderbolt)

You're really fine in using HDMI for 3440x1440@50hz for everything except gaming, but I didn't spend $1000 to run 83% of max refresh rate -_-
 
robbiekhan said:
I got my free 34UM95-P today from LG Germany, it is a made in July version and they kindly gave me the LG ACB8300 calibration unit with it too.

I've uploaded a video of it comparing it against the i1Display pro when used with the LG software. It's a fine calibrator by all accounts and does the job perfectly for £30 but of course only works on LG screens with LG True Color Finder.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1JMD2X4yJA
Click to expand...

Oh wow, they clearly went out of their way to make it up to you, nice!

Any chance you are selling that calibrator? :p
 
Xinmosni said:
Not only DP, but Thunderbolt as well. Doesn't help most people unless you're running a Mac though (or have a higher end mobo with Thunderbolt)

You're really fine in using HDMI for 3440x1440@50hz for everything except gaming, but I didn't spend $1000 to run 83% of max refresh rate -_-
Click to expand...

Amen to everything you just said!

I guess I should have clarified that only certain versions of DP (1.2 and up) can handle this monitor's resolution. I don't think DP 1.0/1.1 has enough bandwidth. Not sure if all cables are the same or if there are specific DP 1.2 cables.
 
Xinmosni said:
I use this monitor with Server 2012 R2 primarily, but I also run Windows 8.1 and Windows 7 for testing purposes and when working on other boxes. Not once had windows rearrange themselves on me, and I turn my monitor on & off whenever leaving rig idle for long periods of time. I always use DisplayPort because HDMI doesn't support full 60hz at 3440x1440, and I've never had a reason to test Thunderbolt even though my mobo has it (but I'm not sure if it's the newer TB required for this monitor -- would have to see if it came with a TB cable).

I use the DisplayPort cable that came with the 34UM95, though I do have others and they worked fine when I've had to use them.

Here's my setup (more details in my signature link if you need):

GPU: Sapphire 290X Trifire
Driver: 14.4
Motherboard: ASUS Maximus V Extreme
Monitor Version: Rev .02
Click to expand...


I have the same problem using Win 8.1 Pro :mad:

Xinmosni, are you using DP 1.2 setting? I am.
If it's not that, then maybe it's Nvidia drivers and I'm using the latest WHQL...
 
I have DP 1.2 turned off, just as it came from the factory.

There's no reason to use DP 1.2 unless you are using specific software programs designed for it (in which case I'm sorry, but I do not :(). For the 99% of other programs out there, there is no downside to leaving it off, as everything will appear exactly the same.
 
Tyrindor said:
I have 1 day left to decide if I want to return my monitor to Costco (I paid $1053), and get the Massdrop one.

- My monitor has minor bleeding in 2 corners, only noticeable during extremely dark scenes and you have to stare for it. It also has an issue where there's a tear (or "desync") down the center of the screen for a split second every now and then, happens every few hours while gaming and has happened on the desktop once or twice. Only one other user has reported the same not sure if firmware or faulty.
- If I return it and the Massdrop version of the monitor is worse in anyway, I have to go through LG for warranty. They may send me a refurb or even worse monitor in return.
- Massdrop version has 3 year exchange warranty and likely has better QC due to being the non-consumer line, Costco is 2 year refund policy on the monitor.
- Saves me $200.

What to do...
Click to expand...

For me, $200 would not be worth the hassle of getting a monitor with worse light bleed and then having to ship it back. I also kind of doubt the UM94 has better QC, only difference is the casing most likely. By the time the UM94 start shipping LG may have improved its production process, though.

The tearing thing is odd though if turning off DP 1.2 doesn't fix that I would consider a return...
 
x3sphere said:
For me, $200 would not be worth the hassle of getting a monitor with worse light bleed and then having to ship it back. I also kind of doubt the UM94 has better QC, only difference is the casing most likely. By the time the UM94 start shipping LG may have improved its production process, though.

The tearing thing is odd though if turning off DP 1.2 doesn't fix that I would consider a return...
Click to expand...

It doesn't fix it. It only happens once every few hours and requires a moving picture to see it, one side of the screen "delays" behind the other for a couple milliseconds, causing a tear to appear down the center of the screen. It's so fast, if you blinked, you'd miss it. I would imagine 99% of people wouldn't see it, especially if they play games without VSYNC.

It's the main reason why I am considering going with Massdrop and returning this one. I've heard rumors that LG is flat out buying back any faulty monitors instead of replacing them, if true, I could technically get a refund on the massdrop monitor if it's worse.
 
Tyrindor said:
It doesn't fix it. It only happens once every few hours and requires a moving picture to see it, one side of the screen "delays" behind the other for a couple milliseconds, causing a tear to appear down the center of the screen. It's so fast, if you blinked, you'd miss it. I would imagine 99% of people wouldn't see it, especially if they play games without VSYNC.

It's the main reason why I am considering going with Massdrop and returning this one. I've heard rumors that LG is flat out buying back any faulty monitors instead of replacing them, if true, I could technically get a refund on the massdrop monitor if it's worse.
Click to expand...

when buying cutting edge means you're a beta tester.
 
Tyrindor, I had that "screen tearing with speakers popping" bug, but it went away after I installed the latest WHQL, 340.52. To be specific, I uninstalled all Nvidia drivers, then did a driver cleaning (using DDU) in Safe Mode, and then installed the 340.52.

I guess I'll try and turn off DP 1.2 to get rid off the windows rearranging...
 
theGryphon said:
Tyrindor, I had that "screen tearing with speakers popping" bug, but it went away after I installed the latest WHQL, 340.52. To be specific, I uninstalled all Nvidia drivers, then did a driver cleaning (using DDU) in Safe Mode, and then installed the 340.52.

I guess I'll try and turn off DP 1.2 to get rid off the windows rearranging...
Click to expand...

Thanks, but I think we are talking about difference issues. I had that issue too, and fixed it by doing the same. This is different sadly. :(

It's literally a pixel perfect straight line, vertically, dead center in the screen when it happens. It will appear as-if the left side is about half an inch higher than the right side of the screen for a split second. It has only happened on the desktop twice, but happens commonly in games (once an hour or so). I don't remember it happening until the 2nd week of owning the monitor.
 
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Tyrindor said:
Thanks, but I think we are talking about difference issues. I had that issue too, and fixed it by doing the same. This is different sadly. :(

It's literally a pixel perfect straight line, vertically, dead center in the screen when it happens. It will appear as-if the left side is about half an inch higher than the right side of the screen for a split second. It has only happened on the desktop twice, but happens commonly in games (once an hour or so). I don't remember it happening until the 2nd week of owning the monitor.
Click to expand...

Hmm, I don't think that ever happened with mine. Sorry...
 
I just picked up the LG UM95-P from my local Microcenter the other day. I noticed a TON of back light bleeding so I exchanged it for another. This one has the same thing as well. I'm going to share a picture of the monitor at 55% brightness on a completely black background. Can you tell me if I should be returning it a second time please?

http://i.imgur.com/KLtPsYX.jpg
 
vmfsx said:
I just picked up the LG UM95-P from my local Microcenter the other day. I noticed a TON of back light bleeding so I exchanged it for another. This one has the same thing as well. I'm going to share a picture of the monitor at 55% brightness on a completely black background. Can you tell me if I should be returning it a second time please?

http://i.imgur.com/KLtPsYX.jpg
Click to expand...

Most of what you see there is IPS glow, not backlight bleeding. There may be an actual backlight bleeding at 1/3 from right on top...

IPS glow is not gonna go away. At 55%, it seems normal (by this monitor's standards) to me. In my experience, photos tend to exaggerate IPS glow anyway...

If you really hate it and it becomes sort of an eye sore for you, by all means try again, or return for refund :)
 
Wow thanks for the quick reply! The picture makes it look a lot worse than it does in person. It is driving me nuts when I have content that puts black bars on the sides and I see that IPS glow. Thanks for clearing that up for me. I'll give it a week or two before I make my decision.
 
55% brightness=around 200cdm/2 for the 34UM95 which is really bright unless the monitor is in a very bright room. AHVA/IPS/PLS panels perform best when set to around 100-140cdm/2 in rooms with decent lighting (1x 1100-1600 lumen Daylight/6500k Light CFL/LED will do).
 
That doesn't look like IPS glow to me, if it vanishes when you move your head in front of it then it's normal... if it doesn't then it's not right. 55% brightness is very high. I have mine at 8 out of 100 in my dim room. I would not imagine most people would ever want to go above 15-20 even in bright rooms. It hurts blacks and increases glow. Remember, the way humans eyes adjust take time. Set it very low, to the point where it looks very dim (5-10). Give yourself 30 minutes to adjust, then slowly increase it until it doesn't look dim. Even 10 is pretty blinding for me if I full screen google.
 
Went to Fry's, One in stock. First thing I asked was if it was a return (was).

I asked if he would sell the floor model, and he said sure. Think I got the same amount off as a returned item being resold, but I figured they would put a best sample for display. I also asked if it had been running for like 6 months straight. He said maybe a few months. I felt it was enough burn in to show any defects, so bought it. Its flawless. Just something to think about, ask if you can take a floor model if in this situation.

Only bad part is it came wrapped in bubble wrap, no box, no connectors (had extras at home anyways) and no CD. I checked in store all the calibration software was available online.

As a side note, I'm surprised more mac users aren't chirping in here, this was described as the successor to the last cinema display since its been so long...
 
^ Most Mac users are waiting on something Apple-branded and/or are only into stuff when marketing tells them they need it *eyeroll*
 
I'm a mac user... just watching and waiting for either the AOC or this, without backlight bleed and at a more competitive price. Probably won't have one before starting uni again at the end of august. Waiting is tedious. Very tedious.
 
Jake_H said:
I asked if he would sell the floor model, and he said sure. Think I got the same amount off as a returned item being resold, but I figured they would put a best sample for display. I also asked if it had been running for like 6 months straight. He said maybe a few months. I felt it was enough burn in to show any defects, so bought it. Its flawless. Just something to think about, ask if you can take a floor model if in this situation.

Only bad part is it came wrapped in bubble wrap, no box, no connectors (had extras at home anyways) and no CD. I checked in store all the calibration software was available online.
Click to expand...

For what it's worth, most (all?) stores will just use a random sample for the floor model. I'm fairly certain the Fry's employees didn't open a bunch of boxes to select the best one, and I doubt LG is hand-picking display models either.

Keep in mind that it's going to be much harder to notice backlight bleed in a well-illuminated store relative to someone's darkly-lit room.

Jake_H said:
As a side note, I'm surprised more mac users aren't chirping in here, this was described as the successor to the last cinema display since its been so long...
Click to expand...

What makes you think we're not chiming in? This isn't the late 90s. It's now possible to use a Mac without being a total fanboy and bringing it up in every conversation. :p
 
Those of you with lower corner backlight bleed should try this out. A user on reddit (antondoe) said he fixed his corner bleed by simply unclipping the lower bezel strip on each end and then pushing it back in slowly but not enough so that it clips back in.

I figured I'd have a play on my one even though it doesn't have any large amounts of bleed just to check and indeed he's right:

Trlh1aF.jpg


That's how much I unclipped it (just to see how far it would unclip without too much force) by wedging a thin knife between chrome edge and bezel strip and levering it out until the corner pops out. You'll notice immediately that any hint of backlight bleed is gone on the corner of the panel. Just put the end back in but just enough to not fully clip it. Yes it will stick out a few mm but head on it's not obvious I guess. A ghetto fix lol...

This kind of confirms what some have been saying, that the panel itself is just fine, it's the casing trim that surrounds the panel that causes the bleed and I can doubly confirm this because if you place a credit card between the chrome bezel on either left or right side, not all the way in just enough to press against the AG coating layer and lever gently you will notice that it takes a tiny tiny amount of pressure to cause backlight bleed and if we go back to the bezel strip at the bottom, that strip is clipped in quite tightly applying quite a bit of pressure at the corners.

What does this tell us then? I think it shows a big manufacturing design flaw on LG's part here. In an effort t have an invisible/thin bezel they've managed to bring about these flaws. They could have simply designed the bottom strip without the tight clipping and just merely glued it to the lower chassis instead, no pressure applied to the corners then.

Oh well. At least this means we can be sure that the Dell model using the same panel should almost certainly have none of these issues.
 
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I used to have a 40" SONY LCD TV that had pretty bad clouding and edge bleeding.
I fixed it 100% by gently pressing on the screen around the clouds with a soft cloth.

Over the span of 2-3 hours the clouds evened out into a nice black fill.

So yes, you are right... Any uneven edge pressure (or pressure anywhere on the panel) will cause bright spots in the display.

The factories will do their best to prevent this, but it's not easy to get a 100% perfect panel all of the time. They also have little control over what happens to these displays once they leave the factory. Materials by their very nature tend expand and contract at various temperatures and climate conditions, and then there's the couriers who handle the boxes from point A to B to C. I'm sure the boxes get jostled around pretty good ;)
 
robbiekhan said:
Those of you with lower corner backlight bleed should try this out. A user on reddit (antondoe) said he fixed his corner bleed by simply unclipping the lower bezel strip on each end and then pushing it back in slowly but not enough so that it clips back in.

I figured I'd have a play on my one even though it doesn't have any large amounts of bleed just to check and indeed he's right:

[snip]

That's how much I unclipped it by wedging a thin knife between chrome edge and bezel strip and levering it out until the corner pops out. You'll notice immediately that any hint of backlight bleed is gone on the corner of the panel.

This kind of confirms what some have been saying, that the panel itself is just fine, it's the casing trim that surrounds the panel that causes the bleed and I can doubly confirm this because if you place a credit card between the chrome bezel on either left or right side, not all the way in just enough to press against the AG coating layer and lever gently you will notice that it takes a tiny tiny amount of pressure to cause backlight bleed and if we go back to the bezel strip at the bottom, that strip is clipped in quite tightly applying quite a bit of pressure at the corners.

What does this tell us then? I think it shows a big manufacturing design flaw on LG's part here. In an effort t have an invisible/thin bezel they've managed to bring about these flaws. They could have simply designed the bottom strip without the tight clipping and just merely glued it to the lower chassis instead, no pressure applied to the corners then.

Oh well. At least this means we can be sure that the Dell model using the same panel should almost certainly have none of these issues.
Click to expand...

Oh wow, I can't believe it's that simple. Now that I look, the black strip on mine isn't centered very well; the side that has no gap between the casing and the strip has much worse bleed. Makes sense.
 
robbiekhan said:
Those of you with lower corner backlight bleed should try this out. A user on reddit (antondoe) said he fixed his corner bleed by simply unclipping the lower bezel strip on each end and then pushing it back in slowly but not enough so that it clips back in.

I figured I'd have a play on my one even though it doesn't have any large amounts of bleed just to check and indeed he's right:

Trlh1aF.jpg


That's how much I unclipped it by wedging a thin knife between chrome edge and bezel strip and levering it out until the corner pops out. You'll notice immediately that any hint of backlight bleed is gone on the corner of the panel.

This kind of confirms what some have been saying, that the panel itself is just fine, it's the casing trim that surrounds the panel that causes the bleed and I can doubly confirm this because if you place a credit card between the chrome bezel on either left or right side, not all the way in just enough to press against the AG coating layer and lever gently you will notice that it takes a tiny tiny amount of pressure to cause backlight bleed and if we go back to the bezel strip at the bottom, that strip is clipped in quite tightly applying quite a bit of pressure at the corners.

What does this tell us then? I think it shows a big manufacturing design flaw on LG's part here. In an effort t have an invisible/thin bezel they've managed to bring about these flaws. They could have simply designed the bottom strip without the tight clipping and just merely glued it to the lower chassis instead, no pressure applied to the corners then.

Oh well. At least this means we can be sure that the Dell model using the same panel should almost certainly have none of these issues.
Click to expand...

Confirmed. Fixed the bleed in both my corners... though it sticks out about 2/10 of an inch and looks kind of ghetto. I didn't need to unclip it nearly as much as your picture, infact I couldn't get mine to come that far off. Like you said this confirmed 100% a design flaw. I would forward that to LG... but I have zero hopes it will be fixed in time for the massdrop shipment.

Sadly this doesn't work for the (very) minor bleed along the top of the monitor.
 
Now I know what to try first when my two 34UM94 monitors arrive in September if I see horrendous amounts of bleeding. Thanks for finding and sharing that robbiekhan.
 
The way they avoided some of the questions on massdrop, the way they designed the frame to cause bleeding, the flickering displayport issues, the crappy stand etc. I think i'm going to wait for AOC. I just hope I don't have to wait too much longer
 
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