Seiki SE50UY04 3840x2160 50" TV ($1300)

really hoping someone can help me. I'm getting no response from seiki support whatsoever through phone or email

I have the 50 in model SE50UY04. it is on the latest firmware from the seiki site which is may 2013 (looks like i downgraded my firmware from 1.1 to 1.0, please tell me someone has the 1.1 firmware)

when the scene changes from light to dark multiple times in a movie or show (such as the camera cutting back and forth between 2 people's faces, and one is on a dark background and one is light), sometimes the backlight noticeably dims or brightens much too late, up to a full second. sometimes it can't "decide" on a backlight setting and dims and brightens multiple times on a camera shot that doesnt really change - this second thing usually happens on darker scenes

i was going to try disabling dynamic luminance control but it simply is not in my menu.

help!
 
gr3yh47 said:
really hoping someone can help me. I'm getting no response from seiki support whatsoever through phone or email

I have the 50 in model SE50UY04. it is on the latest firmware from the seiki site which is may 2013 (looks like i downgraded my firmware from 1.1 to 1.0, please tell me someone has the 1.1 firmware)

when the scene changes from light to dark multiple times in a movie or show (such as the camera cutting back and forth between 2 people's faces, and one is on a dark background and one is light), sometimes the backlight noticeably dims or brightens much too late, up to a full second. sometimes it can't "decide" on a backlight setting and dims and brightens multiple times on a camera shot that doesnt really change - this second thing usually happens on darker scenes

i was going to try disabling dynamic luminance control but it simply is not in my menu.

help!
Click to expand...


This sounds like typical issue of VA panels. Basically VA panels have issues with relaly high intensity black to white. It does 80% of the transition to lighter color in the normal response time but that last 20% takes upwards of a second.

I forget which website had details on this but basically if your panel is completely black and you suddenly light something up on it it seems slightly less bright immediately and takes a while to get full contrast.
 
This sounds like typical issue of VA panels. Basically VA panels have issues with relaly high intensity black to white. It does 80% of the transition to lighter color in the normal response time but that last 20% takes upwards of a second.

I forget which website had details on this but basically if your panel is completely black and you suddenly light something up on it it seems slightly less bright immediately and takes a while to get full contrast.
Click to expand...

thanks but i don't think that's the issue because intense blacks aren't present in the scenes where i've observed the issue. sometimes there isn't really that much contrast at all. Also that doesn't cover the darker scenes sometimes dimming and brightening multiple times without any change in shot.

check out this image: http://i.imgur.com/43CA8GL.jpg

this is an image from a scene where this issue happened. shortly after this shot, while they are talking the camera switches to just his face with the lighter wallpaper background and then just her face with the darker headboard background a few times. each time, when it switched to her it would take up to 1 second for the backlight to dim, and at one point when the shot was on her it actually brightened and darkened multiple times with no change in the scene
 
I finally got in touch with seiki support. they said they can't help with backlight issues and it's probably defective. they also wouldn't/couldn't provide the 1.1 firmware despite it shipping on the tv since at least august 2013

i'm getting a replacement and will follow up
 
gr3yh47 said:
really hoping someone can help me. I'm getting no response from seiki support whatsoever through phone or email

I have the 50 in model SE50UY04. it is on the latest firmware from the seiki site which is may 2013 (edit: fffff, looks like i downgraded my firmware from 1.1 to 1.0, please tell me someone has the 1.1 firmware)

when the scene changes from light to dark multiple times in a movie or show (such as the camera cutting back and forth between 2 people's faces, and one is on a dark background and one is light), sometimes the backlight noticeably dims or brightens much too late, up to a full second. sometimes it can't "decide" on a backlight setting and dims and brightens multiple times on a camera shot that doesnt really change - this second thing usually happens on darker scenes

i was going to try disabling dynamic luminance control but it simply is not in my menu.

help!
Click to expand...

got a replacement, back up to 1.1 firmware, same issue, backlight either takes too long to dim or on some scenes dims and brightens multiple times without much change in the scene. help!
 
gr3yh47 said:
got a replacement, back up to 1.1 firmware, same issue, backlight either takes too long to dim or on some scenes dims and brightens multiple times without much change in the scene. help!
Click to expand...

What you described sounds like an issue of VA panels and I am pretty sure every single display will have this issue and its not the backlight but the level of white or brightness of the pixels themselves.

I notice a similar issue but its not very common and only happens under certain circumstances.
 
My 39" failed today. Screen is washed out with what looks like a white screen-door over the whole thing. Sad stuff. It was working very well for a month.

Edit: Alright, so they don't pay for shipping their big box of defective product all the way across the country, and the replacement will be a refurb. :(
 
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What you described sounds like an issue of VA panels and I am pretty sure every single display will have this issue and its not the backlight but the level of white or brightness of the pixels themselves.

I notice a similar issue but its not very common and only happens under certain circumstances.
Click to expand...

Edit3: it's not the VA panel issue. it's too common and (see edit) doesnt happen with my laptop as the source.

video of the issue. the camera is adjusting to the brightness changes, so it actually looks like the back wall is getting brighter and darker, but it's really the screen, and it happens multiple times in this one scene

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r620uO2XHKA

Through troubleshooting the issue with someone we ended up trying a different media player, VLC had the issue but a different player did not.

EDIT: issue returned after a couple playthroughs on the new player D: so weird

EDIT 2: issue seems to not be present when using my laptop, really hoping it's my desktop GPU since I already ordered an upgrade to get 4k. will update once i replace the GPU.

EDIT 4: SOLUTION? In Nvidia control panel, changed 'perform scaling on' setting from 'display' to 'GPU' and the problem seems to be gone. fingers crossed, as I can't recreate the problem by reverting the setting... weird...
 
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Just curious where did they have you ship the defective TV? Is the returns center still in Canton MI?
 
gunbust3r said:
Just curious where did they have you ship the defective TV? Is the returns center still in Canton MI?
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The address they gave me was in City of Industry, CA. Shipping was going to be $50 ground from the east coast. I ended up getting a return label from Amazon, though (thanks to Amazon CS and Jeff Bezos, can't wait for the drones, man).
 
I have an SE39UY04 and U28D590 lying around so I took the board from the u28d590 and plugged it into the se39uy04. I got 60hz 4k just fine, only problem is inverted colors (though there are various software solutions it seems to solve this, not sure if there's a different way to connect to fix this.)

lHt2GF2.jpg


xtXBHfg.jpg


I wonder if there's any way to just order these boards from the u28d590 instead of paying the full price of the monitor just for the board.
 
trenton05 said:
I wonder if there's any way to just order these boards from the u28d590 instead of paying the full price of the monitor just for the board.
Click to expand...

If you get in touch with one of the Ebay sellers, I'm sure they have a couple of defective ones laying around from which they can strip the board to sell you.
 
Now that sounds interesting. And i wonder if it will work for bigger seiki's as well. Now if someone could manage to buy batch of boards from samsung with slightly customized board's firmware to address inverted colors bit, then there should be ready solution for that custom 4k@60Hz board that was mentioned while back here ..
 
trenton05 said:
I have an SE39UY04 and U28D590 lying around so I took the board from the u28d590 and plugged it into the se39uy04. I got 60hz 4k just fine, only problem is inverted colors (though there are various software solutions it seems to solve this, not sure if there's a different way to connect to fix this.)

lHt2GF2.jpg


xtXBHfg.jpg


I wonder if there's any way to just order these boards from the u28d590 instead of paying the full price of the monitor just for the board.
Click to expand...
Very interesting, keep us posted on further updates, please.


Church said:
Now that sounds interesting. And i wonder if it will work for bigger seiki's as well. Now if someone could manage to buy batch of boards from samsung with slightly customized board's firmware to address inverted colors bit, then there should be ready solution for that custom 4k@60Hz board that was mentioned while back here ..
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The issue, IIRC, is that the 39" is 2 panels, while the 50" is 4 panels, so whether it works or not depends on whether the Samsung's board can drive 4 panels.
 
Nevermind - I found the problem. On my windows 7 machine, I have 'Use Windows XP style DPI scaling' UNCHECKED in my scaling settings. This messes up WindowPad, which should also mess up Winsplit. The solution is to go to compatiblity settings for the program, and CHECK "Disable display scaling on high DPI settings".

The reason why I don't use windows xp style scaling is because I need old apps to work. This is explained here:

http://www.kynosarges.org/WindowsDpi.html

I highly recommend reading that if you are going to use text scaling in windows that is other than 100%.
 
Hey, I think I finally found a cheap solution for the windows resizing issue!
Check out post #10 from here:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/1419465-wake-sleep-issue-edid.html

It contains a photo too. Basically, using tape to block pin 19 prevents your PC from seeing the "hot swap " event that is making our lives hell. I plan on trying this, but probably won't get to it as quickly as some others here, so first one to try and confirm/deny wins the prize!
 
I can't believe the Seiki SE39UY04 39-Inch 4K model is going for $339.00 and free shipping at Amazon. I'm almost tempted to get another one at that price.

trenton05 said:
I have an SE39UY04 and U28D590 lying around so I took the board from the u28d590 and plugged it into the se39uy04. I got 60hz 4k just fine, only problem is inverted colors (though there are various software solutions it seems to solve this, not sure if there's a different way to connect to fix this.)

I wonder if there's any way to just order these boards from the u28d590 instead of paying the full price of the monitor just for the board.
Click to expand...

Believe it or not, I was thinking about trying something like this. However, didn't know if there would be some technical issue preventing it from working and I simply didn't have the testicular fortitude to try it on such relatively new hardware. I'm more the type to try this once one or both malfunctioned,....

You Sir, have balls,......great big balls,......

Unless you are female and in that case I would say to madam, you have ovaries,.... great big ovaries,.....

Well played either way,...... ;)

Can you post up a walkthrough of what you did exactly please. Pictures would help too if you can manage it.

I have both the Seiki SE39UY04 39-Inch 4K model and the Samsung U28D590D. concise directions could help me muster the guts to try this :)
 
Shouldn't first one clarify before trying to repeat mod if it's possible to invert back colors? I doubt someone would actually use it with inverted ones, even if otherwise it "works".
 
Octavean said:
I can't believe the Seiki SE39UY04 39-Inch 4K model is going for $339.00 and free shipping at Amazon. I'm almost tempted to get another one at that price.



Believe it or not, I was thinking about trying something like this. However, didn't know if there would be some technical issue preventing it from working and I simply didn't have the testicular fortitude to try it on such relatively new hardware. I'm more the type to try this once one or both malfunctioned,....

You Sir, have balls,......great big balls,......

Unless you are female and in that case I would say to madam, you have ovaries,.... great big ovaries,.....

Well played either way,...... ;)

Can you post up a walkthrough of what you did exactly please. Pictures would help too if you can manage it.

I have both the Seiki SE39UY04 39-Inch 4K model and the Samsung U28D590D. concise directions could help me muster the guts to try this :)
Click to expand...

Pretty easy if you are used to disassembling monitors/tvs. Just want to be careful with the ribbon cables and prying the bezel off.

Work the edges to pry off the front bezel of the u28d590, then pull the monitor out a bit to unplug the led and panel cables behind it before pulling the panel all the way out. Unscrew the one screw in the back holding the displayport/hdmi input board and the input panel comes out as well.

Then just peel the white plastic cover taped between the panel and the tcon board, then unscrew the four screws holding the tcon board on the back of the panel in place. Unclip the ribbons connected to the tcon board and pull it off and set it aside.

My SE39UY04 has been disassembled for a while now, so don't recall exactly, but it is also pretty easy to disassemble ... unscrew the screws on the back (all screws you see), and take the back cover off; I think the only thing that might prevent it from coming off is the volume/power controls and power cable, which should come off easily enough. There's a metal plate covering the tcon board, unscrew the like 8 screws to take that off. Then unplug the three cables connecting the tcon board to the rest of the boards, and unclip the ribbons connecting it to the panel and set the tcon board aside after unscrewing it.

U28D590 board pretty much drops in place ... line it up and connect the two cables you disconnected from the se39's board to the u28's tcon board, and connect the tcon board to the u28's input board. I used the vesa mount screws + washers to hold the input board in place on the back (though you could just tape it there if you want to put the cover back on probably.)

Other unfortunate part is you have to power on both the se39 to get the led backlight as well as the u28's board. Also, the se39 powers back down after a while if you aren't feeding it something on its input ... I don't recall the seiki settings to know if there is a way to keep the backlight on and prevent it from ever sleeping.

I actually did the mod mentioned earlier to get the serial input into a putty busybox terminal from the tv using a usb to 3 pin serial adapter connected to the serial input on the seiki input board. If you delete the startup script in /usr/local/etc/rcS, I believe the tv powers on and stays stuck on the boot screen and never powers down, so that might be a workaround if you can get that technical.

If you don't do any gaming, there's a free Negative Screen application I tried which negates colors in windows, but doesn't negate them when stuff goes full screen. Don't know if anyone knows of any software that can handle that. I could not find any settings in radeon or nvidia that lets you use negative gamma input values, and I didn't immediately find any registry settings to try to hack it, though I didn't search long. I tried my spyder4 to adjust the colors and it just said wtf when it saw the colors were backwards and error'ed out, so again, not sure how helpful this mod is except for office/web applications.
 
Amazon just dropped one of these at my door an hour ago. I am fairly tech literate, but for the life of me I can't get this thing to display at 4k. Both Win 8 and the Catalyst Control Center recognise the monitor, but neither will give me a resolution option higher than 1080p. and I'm not seeing an option to force 4k on the TV itself. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

I am hooked up to an AMD 6990 via HDMI.
 
Dramey said:
Amazon just dropped one of these at my door an hour ago. I am fairly tech literate, but for the life of me I can't get this thing to display at 4k. Both Win 8 and the Catalyst Control Center recognise the monitor, but neither will give me a resolution option higher than 1080p. and I'm not seeing an option to force 4k on the TV itself. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

I am hooked up to an AMD 6990 via HDMI.
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Radeon 6990 does not support 4K. It's maximum resolution is 2560x1600 per display
 
Thanks, was afraid of that. On the bright side I've been looking for an excuse to upgrade anyway.
 
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can't we source a board from a china with 4k 60hz support instead?

sooner or later compatible boards will be common place on ebay, no need to rush inverted color solutions
 
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Finally got mine set up today. I have an ATI FirePro w5000 that has a max res of 3840x2160 via display port. CCC only reported 1080 as the highest possible and wouldn't accept a custom. Thru CRU and the Pixel Clock patcher I got it to display at full res.

However now every 10 secs the whole screen blinks and re displays the input used/res in the upper right corner of the screen.

Any thoughts?
 
cadeucsb said:
Finally got mine set up today. I have an ATI FirePro w5000 that has a max res of 3840x2160 via display port. CCC only reported 1080 as the highest possible and wouldn't accept a custom. Thru CRU and the Pixel Clock patcher I got it to display at full res.

However now every 10 secs the whole screen blinks and re displays the input used/res in the upper right corner of the screen.

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Which Displayport -> HDMI adapter are you using?
 
Dramey said:
Thanks, was afraid of that. On the bright side I've been looking for an excuse to upgrade anyway.
Click to expand...

You can get a 7770 pretty cheap if you don't need awesome game performance and I know fron experience that a 7770 will run it at 4K just fine, including playback of my BluRay rips.
 
My HP Envy 17 laptop with ATI 7690M XT supports three 4k monitors simultaneously, two at 3840x2160p at 30 Hz via two Displayports, one via HDMI at 25 Hz, and one laptop monitor, for a total of 4 screens. Thus, almost any cheap video card should be able to support 4k monitors. Sometimes my Seiki would black out for a few seconds, but once I decrease the refresh rate from 30 HZ to 29 Hz. It seem to fix the problem. I am do not game, so 30 Hz is perfectly fine with me. I am not a gamer. I do not notice any mouse lag, maybe other people might.
 
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cadeucsb said:
Finally got mine set up today. I have an ATI FirePro w5000 that has a max res of 3840x2160 via display port. CCC only reported 1080 as the highest possible and wouldn't accept a custom. Thru CRU and the Pixel Clock patcher I got it to display at full res.

However now every 10 secs the whole screen blinks and re displays the input used/res in the upper right corner of the screen.

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

I had this problem when I flashed my 39" monitor with the 50" firmware -- 1920 * 1080 worked, but would go black screen every 10-12 seconds for about 5 seconds,. it was utterly intolerable.

Flashing back to the 39" August 2013 firmware fixed that.

I also had infrequent black screen hiccoughs (1-2 days between events, down to about an hour between events), on my Nvidia GTX570, with various display driver revisions, the GTX570's weren't supposed to support >2560 * 1600, so I think it was a hardware problem.

When I got my Asus DCII R9-290x, the Catalyst drivers supported 3840 * 2160 natively (no CRU or other tricks required), and 1920 * 1080 didn't ever do the black screen thing.

I have had some severe problems with Catalyst BETA 14.7, with black screen followed by system crash (windows error reporting doesn't catch it, power-cycle required to get computer to respond again). Reverting to the Release Candidate 14.4 drivers knocked that problem on the head, it was never a Seiki problem with the AMD drivers, rather it was driver/video card issues.

Good luck with your oldish video card trying to run the Seiki at native. I'd suggest upgrading to a 2012 or later year modern video card from either of the mainstream vendors.
 
How does this TV look for games with 4:2:0 chroma subsampling at 4K with Nvidia cards at 4K 60hz? Anyone tried it?
 
@houkouonchi, thanks for your big support by doing an amazing test on this monitor, because of that, I GOT ONE!.

As a linux devel, I wanted that huge resolution in a single display and say good bye to dual screen. At first to see only 13/17/19hz work on this monitor was quite depressing, but I still went ahead. Initially when I got mine, i was only able to get it to work properly at 13hz (some guy on amazon xrandr setting). After doing a shit_load of research I was able to figure out all the other stuff like cvt, gft. Anyhow I was able to push it up to 23hz. THAT WAS NOT ENOUGH, because on windows i was able to get 31hz "easy". I was using a Nvidia GT 610 at that time, I did order a GT 740 just incase the GT 610 was not good enough. It turns out IT WAS NOT GOOD ENOUGH, I switched to the GT 740 and automatically Linux give me 30hz. The mouse slowness was a bit of an issue with me for the first day, but on third day, I was all fine and dandy. I'll post some E server gets back online.
 
This is the video card (Nvidia GT 740), I did not check properly but this card has min-hdmi, as I dont have the cable, i use a DVI->HDMI adapter and I still get the 30hz on linux.
dvi-hdmi.jpg
 
update; i f tried the f beta driver . :mad::mad:
it f does not show f 4:2:0 chroma:mad:
also it f messes with 1080p scaling:mad:
ain't no f way to make 1920x1080 fit the screen correctly:mad:
no need to mention that f 1080p@120hz is gone for good:mad:
f CRU can't fix that:mad:
f system restore did not work:mad:
f manual driver reinstall:mad:

so don't even f wate you f time testing this f shit:mad:
 
final update: second driver reinstall also failed, plus CRU stopped changing the res table. after much grieve i created a custom resolution, tested it, and, voila, f NVIDIA finally let ,e choose the " normal" 1080p120hz mode.

the bottom line is: unless you f need a f driver update from NVIDIA, don't change your settings, f beta driver for 4:2:0 f my sunday
 
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