NCASE M1 version changelog and suggestions thread

vipz said:
I could very well be wrong, especially for the USB connectors, oops. I'll check my own SG05/USB3.0 when I get home.
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So yeah, I looked at the case. Turns out I was thinking of the audio connector when I posted yesterday. It can be separated, although the halves are hot-glued together. The USB 3.0 ports in the front each have 2 soldered pins, presumably for grounding and physical stability.

Either way, I realized that was a moot point, as the M1 front USB connectors are modular and not soldered or otherwise tied together with audio or power.
 
OverRated said:
I asked for a addon bracket so people have the option to use it or not the bracket would screw to the PSU bracket, The only problem with my idea is that the PSU cable will have to be bent if the PSU is mounted with its intake facing inwards but its no different than the way people are bending the cable already.
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It IS different, because like I said, there's not enough clearance*:



That's the ST45SF on the right, but as you'll see...

OverRated said:
This image is based on the Enhance/Silverstone 600W not the ST45SF-G but both will have no problem as all there plugs ports face the same way!
...
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No, they don't. The Enhance shares its orientation (and approximate location) with the older ST45SF (bronze):



Also, the up-angle plug you drew in is not something that currently exists (as low profile as we need), AFAIK, and is likely to cause more problems, since there is less clearance for the cable to bend at the long sides of the PSU.


*Edit: one more thing I should point out is that one of the clips for the top panel is in the lower right corner of where the fan is shown, so it would need to be moved to the left by ~10mm. Would be a problem for you with that thick rad, I think.
 
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OverRated said:
ASUS anti-surge protection is triggered if there a high change in voltage normally created by ripples which happen on high load and high temps, I got the ASUS anti-surge protection once in BF4 after 6 hours of game play after dropping my OC down i never got it again, The problem im talking about is a sound loop where it will repeat the same 1 millisecond of sound constantly and the whole system will lock up this happened after 8 hours of game play, The Noiseblocker works just fine pushes a load of hot air out but having a push/pull config would direct the air more for better flow.
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I somehow missed this earlier, but from your description it doesn't sound like the crash was a result of the PSU overheating at all. If it had been, it would've just shut down. So I'm not to sure what it could've been... looking at your build thread, your CPU and GPU core thermals seem fine. If the crash was heat-related, the only things I can really think of are memory (system or back-of-GPU) or chipset (edit: or not, since you're running a full-cover motherboard block). Has it happened in different games, or just BF4? What's you ambient temperature like?
 
I know for a fact that if the R9 290(X) which I use overheats, it immediately shuts down the computer. Not "Windows is shutting down" but power down. I don't know about Nvidia but I suspect that the behavior is the same. The same happens with the PSU overheating or overloading: it shuts down. Strange thing about this is that Windows doesn't seem to complain about it during reboot: no "safe mode" prompts or anything relevant.

Instability *could* be caused by voltage ripples but I've seen this so rarely in good hardware of the last 10 years, probably due to better components on the power distribution on the hardware itself. It probably won't be the GPU memory because it would show image corruption (black blocks in a somewhat checkboard pattern) before it would crash.

OverRated's issue is something I've come across many times when overclocking the CPU so it just as well be a limit that has been reached.

Nonetheless, the issue seems to be overclocking, which also stresses other components that aren't usually on the "troubleshooting map", like the SATA controller and PCI-e controller. So it might just be that.
 
Necere said:
It IS different, because like I said, there's not enough clearance*:



That's the ST45SF on the right, but as you'll see...

No, they don't. The Enhance shares its orientation (and approximate location) with the older ST45SF (bronze):



Also, the up-angle plug you drew in is not something that currently exists (as low profile as we need), AFAIK, and is likely to cause more problems, since there is less clearance for the cable to bend at the long sides of the PSU.


*Edit: one more thing I should point out is that one of the clips for the top panel is in the lower right corner of where the fan is shown, so it would need to be moved to the left by ~10mm. Would be a problem for you with that thick rad, I think.
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I understand just trying to help that's all, What i mean is the plug will face the same way on both PSU's they will just be on the opposite sides of the unit.

Necere said:
I somehow missed this earlier, but from your description it doesn't sound like the crash was a result of the PSU overheating at all. If it had been, it would've just shut down. So I'm not to sure what it could've been... looking at your build thread, your CPU and GPU core thermals seem fine. If the crash was heat-related, the only things I can really think of are memory (system or back-of-GPU) or chipset (edit: or not, since you're running a full-cover motherboard block). Has it happened in different games, or just BF4? What's you ambient temperature like?
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Ambient temp are always under 40c I got the sound loop in rust and it was on a hot day after some long hours of game play. Most people are lucky they don't have summers like we do so there system will also ways run cool, I haven't got the loop again but saying that the days are cooling down now and i would be related to heat as this isn't a new build and I've be using it for over a year in another case with not one problem at all.
 
Am I the only one who doesn't like the tabs holding the panels together ?

I wouldn't mind proper screws or even magnets to hold the side and top panels in place. Those clips just aren't robust.
 
I think it's the best thing ever. Popping open the case is a 2-second job. Screws get damaged over time and with aluminium it requires delicate handling to not scratch the surface or destroy the threads.

I don't see magnets as a better solution then the clips. The clips are indeed not really good, that's why many have asked for spare clips delivered with their rev. 2 case because a few people have broken them.
 
i don't like the pop-in panels b/c of the thinner aluminum. it worries me i'll warp the panel applying too much pressure to remove it, or put it back in place. none of my clips have broken, but maybe b/c i am very slow and cautious when trying to remove the panels (for reasons already mentioned).
 
wahaha360 said:
It's in the works ;)

No guarantees though, it's a Minimum Order Quantity problem.
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If you are trying to gauge interest, I am looking to purchase extra panels. Also on a side note would I be possible to get thicker panels? I remember reading in the original thread that there may have been a tooling issue?
 
FreeGordonMan said:
Also on a side note would I be possible to get thicker panels? I remember reading in the original thread that there may have been a tooling issue?
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Punching the ventilation holes in the panels can cause them to warp slightly, and as it turns out, it's actually worse with thicker aluminum. So that's off the table with this design, unfortunately.

Regarding the panel mounting method, I've proposed a new idea to Lian Li for slide on panels, which should both help the panels fit tight, as well as avoid the potential for broken clips. Remains to be seen whether it'll work or not, though.
 
Necere said:
Regarding the panel mounting method, I've proposed a new idea to Lian Li for slide on panels, which should both help the panels fit tight, as well as avoid the potential for broken clips. Remains to be seen whether it'll work or not, though.
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Yay! ..and you didn't mention, but the biggest pro would be the slide-on panels mostly eliminating panel warping caused by taking the panels on and off (if case slots are long enough to insert attachment points fully, then slide into place).

The only negative of slide-on panels I can see, would be possible scuffing and scraping of the chassis and interior panel.. which would be unseen, once fully assembled. Would much rather have that issue, vs warped panels and/or broken clips. Although, very thin stick-on teflon strips (similar to those found on mouse feet) could be applied to the exterior of the chassis to avoid any paint/anodizing scraping off.
 
Necere said:
Regarding the panel mounting method, I've proposed a new idea to Lian Li for slide on panels, which should both help the panels fit tight, as well as avoid the potential for broken clips. Remains to be seen whether it'll work or not, though.
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So you're not done with innovating ey ? I hope it works, then we'll know what you've been cooking up :)
 
Asking about improvements on the case? Does this mean there will be another round of M1's made?
 
Drerex said:
Asking about improvements on the case? Does this mean there will be another round of M1's made?
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Think they're planning to, according to W360 from the main thread.. hopefully within a few months, after minor revisions and improvements are made.
 
Phuncz said:
So you're not done with innovating ey ? I hope it works, then we'll know what you've been cooking up :)
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Drerex said:
Asking about improvements on the case? Does this mean there will be another round of M1's made?
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New batch is cooking indeed.

75607764.jpg
 
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wahaha360 said:
I see you got the panels.

Was the package for the panel set damaged? Do you have pictures?

I want to get a sense on how beat up they were for future shipping reference.
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Sorry, missed your post from a while back...

Yes they arrived ok.

One of the panels was slightly bent, about 1mm off, however this is most likely a panel that was bent before shipping. Packaging was certainly made up from spare bits. Each panel was within its own plastic bag and then taped together fairly tightly, to which the random bits of foam and cardboard was somewhat purposely taped to it to create a "box". There was enough to manage most general handling and should survive general postage throwing around. The only concern would be heavy blunt force attacks, but the same would apply for any package. The only possible recommendation is having a larger box to double box it, and a somewhat more repeatable packaging system.

I do have a few photos, but will upload them when I am at my computer later tomorrow.

Thanks!


SilverPanelBox1_zps81aaaf18.jpg
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SilverPanelBox2_zps61b3ab6c.jpg
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okwchin said:
SilverPanelBox2_zps61b3ab6c.jpg
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Wow...lol. I'm just glad it arrived in decent shape.

The way those panels are place over one another - my concerns was that the panels (with metal studs sticking out) could easily scratch one another during shipping - especially with black color panels.

Packaging is another reason why we are hesitant about offering panels as a separate purchase. We probably have to spent $ on a new styrofoam mould just for packaging.
 
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The way these panels were laid together was pretty ok, but probably as it is more of a one off?

It was carefully arranged, and taped together to reduce movement, however its the repeatability and how well it can be protected when mass produced. The tolerances are tight, and a slight shift could result in edges touching the tabs.

if you had a thin layer of dense closed cell foam sheets of 1-2mm or so thickness between each layer, when carefully arranged with the tabs facing outwards, you should be able to safely package them together, as long as they are sufficiently taped down to restrict movement - meaning the bags are taped to prevent the panel slipping within the bag, and then the bags taped to each other.
 
WiSK said:
Those pictures are of a ST45SF-G with a mocked up sticker :)
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Kinda wonder if the SX600-G will still be the same as the Enhance SFX that Necere found.. since Enhance makes the Silverstone modular SFX, and FSP makes their semi-fanless (and non-modular) models, right?
 
AFD said:
Kinda wonder if the SX600-G will still be the same as the Enhance SFX that Necere found.. since Enhance makes the Silverstone modular SFX, and FSP makes their semi-fanless (and non-modular) models, right?
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Adding a thermostat is such a technical challenge that they would need to change the OEM to FSP? :D
 
WiSK said:
Adding a thermostat is such a technical challenge that they would need to change the OEM to FSP? :D
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Lol. I know more than I should about their PSUs.. no idea how they work :p

Wasn't sure if there were rights issues or anything.. guess those would belong to Silverstone anyway. Plus, it just seemed odd that they'd go FSP for the 450W non-modular, then Enhance for the 450W modular, then back to FSP for the 300W semi-fanless non-modular. Thought there might've been a reason for them choosing their OEMs in this manner. Then again, only Enhance has made 80+ gold for them.
 
AFD said:
Wasn't sure if there were rights issues or anything.. guess those would belong to Silverstone anyway. Plus, it just seemed odd that they'd go FSP for the 450W non-modular, then Enhance for the 450W modular, then back to FSP for the 300W semi-fanless non-modular. Thought there might've been a reason for them choosing their OEMs in this manner. Then again, only Enhance has made 80+ gold for them.
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FSP made the original SFX 300W unit for the SG05, so it might just be that the ST30SF is just a newer revision of the original one. Easier/cheaper to stick with the same manufacturer if most of the factory tooling is already available.
 
Thank god another production is moving forward. I couldn't click fast enough to get any of the reserve M1's. Damn Samsung Note 2!!!
 
batmanwcm said:
Thank god another production is moving forward. I couldn't click fast enough to get any of the reserve M1's. Damn Samsung Note 2!!!
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At least you tried. I wasn't even aware this case existed until the 3rd. I was patiently saving up for a build using the node 304. Then decided to research smaller cases and I stumbled on this. Researched more and more only to find out I was too late.

But now there's a light, a bright shiny light, with a little tiny sexy case at the end.
 
Is there a reason why custom standoff's for the motherboard mount were used rather than the standard hex-head threaded bolts?
 
cowsgomoo said:
They're just right for me actually. I think the amount of excess length is dependent on what motherboard you're using, what components you have and how you route around them.
If the USB 3.0 cable were any shorter i wouldn't be able to route them around my 120mm case fans on the bottom and reach the USB header which is located near the backplate in the case of my motherboard (Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe).
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What about having the cable bundle be detached at the port end, and selling the cable bundle in various lengths as needed by the buyer?
 
Hi Necere:

I installed a 140mm power supply (SeaSonic S12G-750 http://www.seasonicusa.com/S12G.htm ) in my case. Unfortunately, the clearance between the power supply and top panel of the case is insufficient to allow for use of standard molded IEC 320 C13 connecters, which typically have a height of 39mm. (The internal power cord that is supplied with the case, and in particular, the low profile connector, appears to be a customized or propriety item.) Thus, I suggest that the top of the case be heightened by 4 or 5 millimeters. In theory, the power supply bracket could be modified for slightly lower mounting of the power supply--but there are only 4 or 5 millimeters between the bottom of the power supply and video card. Alternatively, the idea of allowing the motherboard to be mounted one slot lower could be further explored.

I also suggest that the side panels, at least the left panel, be modified to include vent holes in the lower portion of the panel.
 
Have you tried using stand-offs or washers to lower the PSU?
 
imode said:
Is there a reason why custom standoff's for the motherboard mount were used rather than the standard hex-head threaded bolts?
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They had to be exactly 8mm tall and have a very short threaded section ( <3mm), which I'm not sure are available.

Gandergray said:
Hi Necere:

I installed a 140mm power supply (SeaSonic S12G-750 http://www.seasonicusa.com/S12G.htm ) in my case. Unfortunately, the clearance between the power supply and top panel of the case is insufficient to allow for use of standard molded IEC 320 C13 connecters, which typically have a height of 39mm. (The internal power cord that is supplied with the case, and in particular, the low profile connector, appears to be a customized or propriety item.) Thus, I suggest that the top of the case be heightened by 4 or 5 millimeters. In theory, the power supply bracket could be modified for slightly lower mounting of the power supply--but there are only 4 or 5 millimeters between the bottom of the power supply and video card.
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Let me quote myself from earlier in the thread:

Necere said:
People have to remember that the case was designed from the outset to use SFX power supplies only; the ATX bracket was added only because it was simple and required no significant changes to the design. If people really want to use ATX, they have to make some compromises (non-modular or short GPU).
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Gandergray said:
Alternatively, the idea of allowing the motherboard to be mounted one slot lower could be further explored
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This was pretty well explored, IMO. I don't really see any options besides what's already been discussed upthread.

What you're asking for, essentially, is a change to the design that makes a bunch of compromises to accommodate your specific edge case, when there's a simple solution available to you: use a PSU that the case was designed for.
 
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Is there a way to make the side bracket to accommodate 140mm Radiator or All-in-one? I understand there might not be enough room for a 280mm but to be able to mount a 140mm Rad would be great.
 
There IS not enough room in the case for 280mm radiators or atleast not the CLC's. I just barely squeezed the H220's radiator in there and this case was designed to fit that setup. A single 140mm radiator might be possible but I think it would limit more people than it would help. the sidepanels would need to be redesigned and 140mm allows almost no distance to the GPU, making fullcover blocks more limited (no fittings on top) and no cards with any covers on the back.
 
If it is just minor revisions to the existing case....Maybe the option to mount a 3.5 hard drive on the bottom right-hand side
 
I am thinking of installing a 240mm radiator in the bottom with slim fans and a water cooled graphics card. The problem is there is hardly any space using a 12mm fan and a 27mm radiator. I would like to see a small increase in height of the case to accommodate a 25mm fan and a 30mm radiator :)
 
I think the case will be 20L if everyone's "few mm larger" suggestions are taken seriously.
This topic is about small adjustments. Making it bigger isn't a small adjustment...
 
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