NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)


That rad should help quite a bit in keeping with the heat. My only concern is that it appears to be made by Asetek, a company that is suing everyone who dares to make a AIO water cooler.
 
God damn it, ordered the Panasonic UJ-265 slot drive through amazon by a third party seller, got it today. It states the right model on the box, but inside I got a fucking Sony db-5750l tray drive....
Now I got to deal with a returning it and wasting time, was about to put everything together at the end of the week.
 
For those that have air cooled their M1s...

I have the following:

Noctua NH-L9I CPU Cooler
ACX Cooled 780
4x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 2 120mm Fans
1x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 2 92mm Fan

How should I place my push/pull?
 
That picture is awesome! This is one of the reasons why SFF builds are amazing. Did you carry it as hand luggage?

I also have the asus dc2 670 and while it is quiet enough in my current case(node 304) I would like it to be even quieter. Especially in idle. So I was thinking about removing the fans too and installing 2 on the bottom. So you did this and it works great?

Hand luggage yes. No issues with security either.. One spent an extra 5 seconds on the x-ray, but the rest were fine.

We are talking about security that confiscated a plastic toy shotgun that is clearly a children's toy with the bright orange tips and significantly smaller... while wrapped in Christmas wrapping paper and carried by a 10 year old. Took his christmas present away...


The Card is practically silent at idle. Unless you put your ears into the card. Well mine was anyway at the 20% fan speed with the original fans. Now using 2x Gentle typhoon 2150 fans ticking over at 400 rpm at idle. The motor on the fans are inaudible, but the only noise is the quiet hissing sound of the ball bearings. (aerodynamically at 400 rpm, there is no sound). Get yourself some low RPM PWM fans with sleeve bearings and you can have yourself a truly silent idle. Where the GTs really start to shine are when you start to crank up the RPMs. From the 800-1000 rpm mark, the GTs start to become audible but so start moving more air than many mainstream options. Therefore if your priority is noise at load, the GTs are a safe choice, but for idle silence, you should consider a fan without ball bearings.

Realistically, your primary concern is the PSU noise, as even in my case with the 120mm fan mod on the SFX, I can still only get that fan down to 700-800 RPM on a 25deg C Day for exhaust temperatures in the order of 35 degrees C (higher than I would like) at idle!, rising to 1000 rpm at load with exhaust temps of 38-40.

Right now my next stages are changing my "current limiting" fan controller to a "voltage controlled" fan controller to improve the fan starting rpm, and then to consider installing or moving my 92mm slim noctua to under the C14 to give the chipset more cooling. The chipset is sitting at uncomfortably high temperatures all the time as it always too hot to touch. The C14 is too tall to give chipset cooling air, especially when my idle fan RPMs are around 250-300 rpm. Anyone else feel that way about the chipset temps?
 
Last edited:
Anyone else using the NH-C14 with their M1? I currently have it installed with my i7-4770k and am getting terrible results with my temps when going full load. At stock speeds (3.9GHz turbo, 1.2V), my temps shoot up to 85C within 5 minutes of running Prime95 (small fft). In comparison, Necere was able to achieve 71C in his second cooling test. Although he was using an i7-3770k, he also had a 7970 running Furmark with the GPU's heat being dispersed in the case. Does Haswell run that much hotter than Ivy Bridge??

I've already tried reseating the heatsink and am sure that it is making good contact with the CPU's heatspreader. I have two 120mm fans on the side bracket and a 92mm fan installed on the outside at the rear of the case, all fans blowing inward. I also have a reference blower GTX 780, so GPU heat should be at a minimal. Are the CPU temps I'm getting normal for my cooling solution, or is there something wrong that I can fix?
 
Anyone else using the NH-C14 with their M1? I currently have it installed with my i7-4770k and am getting terrible results with my temps when going full load. At stock speeds (3.9GHz turbo, 1.2V), my temps shoot up to 85C within 5 minutes of running Prime95 (small fft). In comparison, Necere was able to achieve 71C in his second cooling test. Although he was using an i7-3770k, he also had a 7970 running Furmark with the GPU's heat being dispersed in the case. Does Haswell run that much hotter than Ivy Bridge??

I've already tried reseating the heatsink and am sure that it is making good contact with the CPU's heatspreader. I have two 120mm fans on the side bracket and a 92mm fan installed on the outside at the rear of the case, all fans blowing inward. I also have a reference blower GTX 780, so GPU heat should be at a minimal. Are the CPU temps I'm getting normal for my cooling solution, or is there something wrong that I can fix?
why is your 92mm rear fan blowing inward?
 
why is your 92mm rear fan blowing inward?

I remember reading that it was best to have all fans doing intake on the case to bring in fresh air. The case is perforated that it should have no problem pushing out hot air.
 
why is your 92mm rear fan blowing inward?

That's what I was wondering.. always thought the rear 92 was intended as an optional exhaust and/or res mounting point.

Maybe the 92mm fan is causing a weird airflow, bouncing off your 120mm side intake airflow? Try running Prime again with the 92mm turned off, and again with it facing as an exhaust, and see if it changes your temps at all.
 
That's what I was wondering.. always thought the rear 92 was intended as an optional exhaust and/or res mounting point.

Maybe the 92mm fan is causing a weird airflow, bouncing off your 120mm side intake airflow? Try running Prime again with the 92mm turned off, and again with it facing as an exhaust, and see if it changes your temps at all.

When running the stress test I removed all the panels. Airflow shouldn't have been an issue. Still, I'll rerun Prime95 tomorrow with the 92mm as an exhaust and see if there is a difference.
 
Just got mine today from the post office, no notice at all and i called to see if they could help me. "oh its been here since the 28th, we have left notices in your mailbox...."

no they hadnt!

oh well excited. now just a month or so and i can start ordering parts, so antsy. hoping for the silverstone 550w to be released before i finalize and order all parts, i want to watercool, thinking and apogee 2for cpu and gpu, atm thinking 770 for the vid card, that may change soon :p


ps:ncere and wahaha thank you so much for making this a reality i absolutely love it, everything is perfect with mine :D i would like more screws to have as back up
 
Last edited:
Build looks good but your better off with a good air cooler than a H60 like the C14, I used a H60 in my M1 and idle temps where to high around 45c.

I have a H60 mounted in my build with the fans mounted on the side bracket with the radiator on the inside (mounted over the CPU). The fan is setup to pull air into the case and through the radiator. My idle temps are in between 23-29c. Dont know if you have yours mounted differently or if you just got a bum H60 :confused:
 
When running the stress test I removed all the panels. Airflow shouldn't have been an issue. Still, I'll rerun Prime95 tomorrow with the 92mm as an exhaust and see if there is a difference.

So I flipped the 92mm fan to be exhaust and ran Prime95 again with the same results (although this time I had to panels on the case). Do you guys think if I installed another 120mm PWM fan on the bottom of the NH-C14 it would help with the temps?

Also, Necere, can you tell me what settings you had for Prime95 for the second thermal test?
 
Anyone else using the NH-C14 with their M1? I currently have it installed with my i7-4770k and am getting terrible results with my temps when going full load. At stock speeds (3.9GHz turbo, 1.2V), my temps shoot up to 85C within 5 minutes of running Prime95 (small fft). In comparison, Necere was able to achieve 71C in his second cooling test. Although he was using an i7-3770k, he also had a 7970 running Furmark with the GPU's heat being dispersed in the case. Does Haswell run that much hotter than Ivy Bridge??

I've already tried reseating the heatsink and am sure that it is making good contact with the CPU's heatspreader. I have two 120mm fans on the side bracket and a 92mm fan installed on the outside at the rear of the case, all fans blowing inward. I also have a reference blower GTX 780, so GPU heat should be at a minimal. Are the CPU temps I'm getting normal for my cooling solution, or is there something wrong that I can fix?

Interms of airflow, I would want a positive pressure case (more fans blowing in than out), but only just. I would not want a case that has all fans blowing inward with little space for air to get out - you end up with a high pressure situation and in the case of low pressure fans (which means face on you can see more gaps between the blades) the airflow will be notably hampered. It doesn't mean it wont work, it just means you get less flow though each individual fan.

My C14 has been trimmed down, with slightly less surface area too, and my load temps on my 4370 stock clock slightly undervolted for a TDP of 65-75W is about 60 degrees (delta of 35 deg C) at a fan rpm of 900 with a 120mm Scythe Glidestream, pulling air into the case. Idle is around the 30 degree mark, a delta of 5 degrees with fan rpm at 250.

Your temps are Significantly higher than it should be for that cooler at stock clocks.
 
So I flipped the 92mm fan to be exhaust and ran Prime95 again with the same results (although this time I had to panels on the case).

At least your temps didn't increase from adding the panels since your 1st test.. though I kinda doubt 5 minutes would've been long enough to make a difference there.

Think Haswell is supposed to run hotter than Ivy Bridge (84W TDP on the 4770k vs 77W on the 3770k), but 85C still seems a little much for the C14.


Here's some C14 testing on a 130W i7-950 (Prime large FFTs for 15-min, using both fans running at 100%)..

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Noctua/NH-C14/6.html
 
So got mine all put together and it won't POST. :(

MB is Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe and RAM is Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 (VLP @ 1.35V). Anyone running this mix have any issues getting it to POST?


The DRAM_LED near the MemOK! switch lights continuously. Which according to Pg 36 (section 2-16) of Manual the issue could be:

MemOK! switch
Installing DIMMs that are incompatible with the motherboard may cause system boot failure, and the DRAM_LED near the MemOK! switch lights continuously. Press to begin automatic memory compatibility tuning for successful boot.
OR
The DRAM_LED also lights when the DIMM is not properly installed.

I've ran the automatic memory compatibility tuning which is done by pressing the MemOK switch. It goes through all configurations and still doesn't POST.

I haven't yet reseated the RAM yet as I'll have to take it apart. As I'll need to do that anyways when I get the PP05-E cables to switch the originals out w/ them I'm waiting.
 
God damn it, ordered the Panasonic UJ-265 slot drive through amazon by a third party seller, got it today. It states the right model on the box, but inside I got a fucking Sony db-5750l tray drive....
Now I got to deal with a returning it and wasting time, was about to put everything together at the end of the week.

Was it Computer Upgrade King? The exact same thing happened to me, same wrong drive. They emailed me in response to feedback I left, which I appreciate, and it sounds like a big mixup in their warehouse. Definitely frustrating, but at least the return/refund through Amazon is painless...
 
So far I am just using air cooling in my rig. I have noticed that the video card has been getting really hot (up into the 80s C just playing WoW). I am running a Galaxy GTX460 that isn't really a blower, so that is probably part of the problem. I want to replace it with a new card, but will a blower style make that much difference? Any suggestions for good blower cards? I am also considering switching over to water cooling but I have a question for those h220/glacer 240l users out there. Can you put a water block on the CPU and GPU and effectively cool it with just the 240mm radiator? I have been trying to learn about water cooling since I have never done it before and most places that I read say that in order to cool a GPU and CPU, you need to have a second radiator. Since there is no room for a second radiator in the m1, I am starting to wonder what the point of the h200/glacer 240l is. If you can't water cool both the GPU and CPU, why bother with such a cooler at all? Do you really need a second radiator? Has anyone been cooling both a GPU and CPU with just the 240m rad? If so, what are your system specs and temps?
 
So got mine all put together and it won't POST. :(

MB is Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe and RAM is Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 (VLP @ 1.35V). Anyone running this mix have any issues getting it to POST?


The DRAM_LED near the MemOK! switch lights continuously. Which according to Pg 36 (section 2-16) of Manual the issue could be:



I've ran the automatic memory compatibility tuning which is done by pressing the MemOK switch. It goes through all configurations and still doesn't POST.

I haven't yet reseated the RAM yet as I'll have to take it apart. As I'll need to do that anyways when I get the PP05-E cables to switch the originals out w/ them I'm waiting.

I had the same problem when I first turned mine on, and I have the same components (except 16GB of the Ballistix Sport). I'd used my motherboard previously, so it was fixed when I cleared CMOS via the pin push on the I/O panel of the mb. I'd try that (since it's easy to do), and reseat the RAM if that doesn't work.
 
Looks so much better with a shorter cable ;) and yes it can reach both ways if i want to spin around the PSU.



I'm finding it hard to map out a good loop for my watercooling am i correct every one doing RES > CPU/PUMP > RAD > GPU > RAD ?? i just cant see we get the space from the top out port on the CPU BLOCK to the RAD? I'm thinking about going
RES > CPU/PUMP > GPU > RAD > RES and thinking about having the CPU block so the in port is up to not down the bottom ?


Any one seen this i'm really think of getting one when there out and just buying a small pump.

FB-ASUS-M6I-Original-CSQ_NA_full-detail_1200.jpg
 
Last edited:
Still have not received a reply to my email to FrozenQ about the missing inserts. . .I guess I will keep emailing. :( This is becoming increasingly frustrating.
 
Still have not received a reply to my email to FrozenQ about the missing inserts. . .I guess I will keep emailing. :( This is becoming increasingly frustrating.

Umm that's not good seems they dont reply to people they dont have answers for.
 
Just an update for anyone considering the Noctua NH-U9B SE2 cooler. On an i7 4770k my idle temps around around 26C and my load temps on BF4 usually stay below or around 70C. This is with no intake fans in the case. Room temp is around 20C (68F)

832ca1b7_20140104_141148.jpeg
 
Unfortunately you may need to send an e-mail directly to Steve. That was the only way I managed to receive a response indicating the next batch of reservoirs for those yet to receive any shipping indication should be shipped out by this Friday.

So got mine all put together and it won't POST. :(

MB is Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe and RAM is Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 (VLP @ 1.35V). Anyone running this mix have any issues getting it to POST?


The DRAM_LED near the MemOK! switch lights continuously. Which according to Pg 36 (section 2-16) of Manual the issue could be:


I've ran the automatic memory compatibility tuning which is done by pressing the MemOK switch. It goes through all configurations and still doesn't POST.

I haven't yet reseated the RAM yet as I'll have to take it apart. As I'll need to do that anyways when I get the PP05-E cables to switch the originals out w/ them I'm waiting.

It'll be worth taking the time to ensure it's re-seated. I specifically noted how easy it would be to not properly seat those particular sticks when I tested my stuff for DOA parts last night. Beyond that, I don't have the exact same configuration as you so this is more or less useless for comparison purposes, but my Z87i-Deluxe booted with my Crucial Ballistix Sport VLP 16GB kit with no issues.
 
Looks so much better with a shorter cable ;) and yes it can reach both ways if i want to spin around the PSU.



I'm finding it hard to map out a good loop for my watercooling am i correct every one doing RES > CPU/PUMP > RAD > GPU > RAD ?? i just cant see we get the space from the top out port on the CPU BLOCK to the RAD? I'm thinking about going
RES > CPU/PUMP > GPU > RAD > RES and thinking about having the CPU block so the in port is up to not down the bottom ?


Any one seen this i'm really think of getting one when there out and just buying a small pump.

FB-ASUS-M6I-Original-CSQ_NA_full-detail_1200.jpg

I've been waiting for this block to come out and I saw it last. Ight on EK's twitter. The Bitspower one has been out for a little while. This block was part of my prodigy build plans.
 
Late to the party but #0948 was delivered in Nebraska on 1-2-2014 in perfect condition. Count me as another satisfied customer. ;)
 
Late to the party but #0948 was delivered in Nebraska on 1-2-2014 in perfect condition. Count me as another satisfied customer. ;)

Better late than never. And you know this party is going to be going on for a loooong time.
 
I have a H60 mounted in my build with the fans mounted on the side bracket with the radiator on the inside (mounted over the CPU). The fan is setup to pull air into the case and through the radiator. My idle temps are in between 23-29c. Dont know if you have yours mounted differently or if you just got a bum H60 :confused:

I thought his temps were way off. Glad you posted how your H60 is performing. I been trying to decide between a H60 and air hsf. Which mobo you using?
 
I thought his temps were way off. Glad you posted how your H60 is performing. I been trying to decide between a H60 and air hsf. Which mobo you using?

My temps were not off this was tested with a high room temp of 30c, the h60 like any cooler will prefer cooler air but as the h60 is only a 120mm slim rad the coolant will heat up fast in hot weather and wont be able to cool down well, I also tested a 100i which was around 11c cooler on idle and over 20c cooler on load, your better off with a air cooler.
 
The specs on the ncases.com site says that radiators need to be slimmer than 40mm. Does this take into account full sized 120mmx25mm fans? (not in push pull; just on one side of the radiator)
 
The specs on the ncases.com site says that radiators need to be slimmer than 40mm. Does this take into account full sized 120mmx25mm fans? (not in push pull; just on one side of the radiator)

It should. I have an EK CoolStream PE, which is 38mm, with 25mm fans and theres still a fair bit of clearance before the PSU (about another 25mm) for fittings/tubing/cables.
 
I've been waiting for this block to come out and I saw it last. Ight on EK's twitter. The Bitspower one has been out for a little while. This block was part of my prodigy build plans.

There was a fair amount of discussion on this block when it was first announced a while back. One of the outstanding questions was whether or not the height of the block would interfere with being able to plug in the front panel audio headers to the SupremeFX daughter card; they finally sort of answered, but were a bit vague (quote from the EK Club at ekwb.com):
"It'll clear it, with some bending of the cables :)" -derickwm (EK Rep)

I've asked for some clarification, but have to wait and see.

Audio header issues or not, it does seem like a much nicer block than the Bitspower, with my biggest concern being the sheer number of pieces/gaskets/potential points of failure.
 
Back
Top