Silverstone Modular 450W SFX (ST45SF-G) - Now has a product page - NextQ = When?

Romir said:
It sounds like all motor and bearing noise to me, with a faint electrical buzz once you get up close to it. At idle there's absolutely no noise from air movement until I hold it up near my ear. In contrast, the similar dBa level GT AP14 noise is almost completely from the air flow and smooth.

I'm sticking with quiet but unpleasant as my perception of the noise. I don't want to antagonize Amazon with a return right now so I'm going to try modding it with a Noiseblocker. I already have an extra micro 2-pin adapter. When the new semi-passive 300w Silverstone sfx comes out I'll try that in this Sugo 06 and put the 450w in a Ncase.
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Well, even if the dBa level is similar, it could sound very loud/unpleasant because of the fan size or motor/bearing. When I had my SG06, the loudest fan was the PSU, but my SO could not even hear my system. It is just the tonal difference between fans and how we perceive noise.
 
My V2.0 arrived a few days ago and I've been running tests on my Titan and how well my overall system can handle it (long story!).

I'm happy to say that my particular unit is whisper quiet, even when the Titan is running hard. The Titan itself isn't loud and the fan on my H60 is also down very low, so there's plenty of leeway to hear the PSU.

However, if it weren't for the Gold rating I'd almost feel like I'd wasted my money - there's only 1 strand of cables I've not used (the Molex/floppy strand) so there's almost no point in going modular for me. Also I'm not too enamoured with the 8-pin and 6-pin PCI-E connectors coming out of the same strand - everything goes into the 8-pin and then from the 8-pin loops into 6-pin, so I have this little loop sticking up out of the Titan I have to flatten down once everything goes back into the Sugo SG05.

Of course the benefit of being fully modular is I can make custom-length cables (e.g. only need 2 SATA power on a 4 inch length).

Overall though it's worth the £83 I paid, but I can't help but think the Bronze-rated model is a better deal.
 
You make it sound like it's necessarily a bad thing. It doesn't really matter as long as the 12V is stable, can sustain the specified amps and the wiring is sufficient. Putting the two plugs on two seperate cables doesn't make it more reliable or more stable per sé, as they still originate from the same rail and probably from the same point on the PSU PCB. I'd actually prefer it, since it means less cable running from my PSU to my components. Certainly not an issue with a PSU meant for one GPU only.
 
Phuncz said:
You make it sound like it's necessarily a bad thing. It doesn't really matter as long as the 12V is stable, can sustain the specified amps and the wiring is sufficient. Putting the two plugs on two seperate cables doesn't make it more reliable or more stable per sé, as they still originate from the same rail and probably from the same point on the PSU PCB. I'd actually prefer it, since it means less cable running from my PSU to my components. Certainly not an issue with a PSU meant for one GPU only.
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That being said, if I'm going to power up to 225W (150W on the 8 pin and 75W on the 6pin) on 3 power transmission wires (the yellow ones), I'm going to make sure they're at *least* AWG16 (pref. 14).
 
It's more of an annoyance rather than a bad thing. Cable management is a pain in SFF systems as it is without having extra stuff floating around, and I personally find the resulting loop of having 8-pin and 6-pin on the same cable to be untidy. Doubly so if I only needed the 6-pin and have this superfluous 8-pin flapping around.

I already have that issue with the CPU connector - I only need 4-pin so have an extra 4-pin sat there.

just untidy and a bit cluttered, but there's always going to be tradeoffs.
 
If you REALLY think it's awful, you can always make custom cables or order them online. It is modular after all.
 
It's certainly on the cards. Definitely going for a custom SATA power cable for the 2 SSDs as I only need about 4 inches length and power connectors next to each other. Probably same goes for the CPU power too and just have the single 4-pin on it.

If I'm looking at sleeving I may well do independent 8-pin and 6-pin cables too, but we'll see.
 
Machupo said:
That being said, if I'm going to power up to 225W (150W on the 8 pin and 75W on the 6pin) on 3 power transmission wires (the yellow ones), I'm going to make sure they're at *least* AWG16 (pref. 14).
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But they are not "power transmission" wires, that's an industrial definition which is talking about cables which are running over a longer distance, possibly through a a non-ventilated conduit and maybe tightly bundled together. The point is that longer wires generate more heat in total, because resistance is a function of distance. That's why the "power transmission" rating for AWG is more conservative.

Wires in a PC go a short distance, have low voltage and variable current and are effectively open-air. So look at the "chassis wiring" column of your AWG chart. 225W over 3 wires is just over 6 amps per wire. AWG18 can do this no problem.
 
WiSK said:
But they are not "power transmission" wires, that's an industrial definition which is talking about cables which are running over a longer distance, possibly through a a non-ventilated conduit and maybe tightly bundled together. The point is that longer wires generate more heat in total, because resistance is a function of distance. That's why the "power transmission" rating for AWG is more conservative.

Wires in a PC go a short distance, have low voltage and variable current and are effectively open-air. So look at the "chassis wiring" column of your AWG chart. 225W over 3 wires is just over 6 amps per wire. AWG18 can do this no problem.
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aha -- good to know. I was wondering how manufacturers seemed to be getting away with thin wires :p
 
NiKa said:
I ordered those suggested (tha fan from amazon.co.uk)

are there any details on how to perform the "surgery" :D
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Top tip: unplug and leave the PSU unused for 24 hours before opening it - there's always a tiny chance of loaded capacitor.

If you bought the fan adapter wire then it's not even surgery. Unscrew top cover, unplug fan, replace fan, close cover.

If you didn't buy the adapter then watch here first - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1CCYtnAkMs
 
WiSK said:
Top tip: unplug and leave the PSU unused for 24 hours before opening it - there's always a tiny chance of loaded capacitor.

If you bought the fan adapter wire then it's not even surgery. Unscrew top cover, unplug fan, replace fan, close cover.

If you didn't buy the adapter then watch here first - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1CCYtnAkMs
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i did bought the adapter...

so i ll wait patiently for adapter + fan to arrive...

btw this is the fan right?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0083A0BIA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Got around to installing my V2.0 ST45SF-G that came to replace an older FSP300-60GHS, which turned out to be a bit too weak even for a 4.2GHz overclock on a 4770K.

The ST45SF-G's fan is still very noisy.
(compared to my older, de-grilled PSU with a flipped fan)

- Tested outside of the case, seemed quite noisy to me.
- Flipped the PSU fan (due to the case's airflow pattern) and assembled, remained noisy.
- Replaced the stock fan (0.18A) with the one from the older FSP (0.23A). Surprisingly, noise level dropped considerably.
- Was still too noisy (airflow noise), took apart and de-grilled the ST45SF-G.
- Noise level became acceptable.

Conclusions:
- The stock fan in the ST45SF-G is far from the best.
- The grill contributes a considerable amount of noise.


Overall a great PSU though, it can provide quite a bit of juice - 4770K @ 4.6GHz (de-lidded) with an overclocked 660Ti (1033/6608 +23% TDP), running Linpack 11.0.5 (AVX2) + FurMark (the reading on the CPU alone shows about 150W of power draw, I assume something like 160-180W more on the videocard), and its single 12V rail doesn't even budge.
 
Got this power supply and did the fan upgrade, but when you put your ear close to it seems to make a light clicking noise. It is quiet from a meter away, but you can faintly here this clicking noise. Just wondered if this is normal?
Cheers
 
Mine doesn't have a clicking noise. Perhaps one of the wires is out of place and knocking against the blades?
 
WiSK said:
Fan: http://highflow.nl/fans/ventilatore...tr-pc-p-80x15mm-ultra-silent-fan-2500rpm.html

If you don't want to solder: http://www.moddiy.com/products/3%2d...-Mini-2%2dPin-GPU-Fan-Connector-(Female).html

Before http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwl-A0Cx6t8
After http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9P02jVmMBuc (the microphone of the camera was right over the fan, which is why you can hear anything at all!)
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i bought the adaptor mentioned... but it is tooo big and it doesnt fit inside the Silverstone psu...
 
You ordered the exact product directly from that link? If you got the wrong item from Moddiy, you should contact Eric and ask for replacement.

Here I bought two of them and they fit perfectly. (I got them with HD sleeved option.)

st45sfg-fan-adapter_zps313f18f8.jpg
 
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i checked their site...
there is nothing like it.. so probably there wasnt a mix up

tomorrow i will post a photo side by side of the 2 connectors..(original and the one i bought)
 
Check your order history at Moddiy. The item is called "3-Pin Standard Fan Connector (Male) to Mini 2-Pin GPU Fan Connector (Female)"

Which version of the PSU do you have? I know for sure it works with V1.0 and V1.1, I haven't confirmed anyone with a V2.0 yet. Could you perhaps also take a photo of the connector socket inside the PSU?
 
WiSK said:
Check your order history at Moddiy. The item is called "3-Pin Standard Fan Connector (Male) to Mini 2-Pin GPU Fan Connector (Female)"

Which version of the PSU do you have? I know for sure it works with V1.0 and V1.1, I haven't confirmed anyone with a V2.0 yet. Could you perhaps also take a photo of the connector socket inside the PSU?
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its v1..

ke8rfCc.jpg


Do you see the difference?
 
and another question
the fan i bought has four cables
Blue White Red Black

the adaptor has 3 pins ..
how should i connect?

1b4SWZR.jpg
 
NiKa said:
Do you see the difference?
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Indeed :(

That looks like the header used on the Scythe Mini Kaze (see second picture). But I'm not sure what that type of connector is called.

Check your account at Moddiy and see exactly the name of what you ordered. Can try to email Eric and show him your photo. I think he's made a mistake and sent you the wrong item.

NiKa said:
and another question
the fan i bought has four cables
Blue White Red Black

the adaptor has 3 pins ..
how should i connect?
Click to expand...

The PSU sends ground (black) and voltage (red). So you need to connect it on the right side (as looking at your picture). The blue wire will be unconnected.


Also, which country are you in? PM me if you are coincidentally in the Netherlands.
 
Updating:
the guys of the www.moddiy.com told me that propably there was an error with my purchase and they are going to send me the correct connectors without charge..

Really great service...

WiSK thank you for all your help..

will update as soon as the correct connectors arrive ;)
 
I'm about to start sleeving this PSU and already have first question about it. Can I change the order of the wires in that 8pin EPS connector? I mean keeping all yellows at the "yellow side" and the blacks at the "black side". Hope somebody understands what I am trying to ask. :D Just asking because in stock these wires go criss-cross and it looks ugly...

EPS 12V 8PIN connector:
Signal Pin Pin Signal
Yellow +12V 5 1 COM Black
Yellow +12V 6 2 COM Black
Yellow +12V 7 3 COM Black
Yellow +12V 8 4 COM Black
 
as long as the same color wire goes into the same slot on the EPS12V 8-pin connector (no swapping 12V leads for ground!), you'll be fine (they are all the same gauge)... in fact, 99.9% of people don't need all 8 wires, only the top four are needed on most motherboards (2 12v, 2 ground) and cpu configurations.

Now, this doesn't necessarily hold true for the 24-pin ATX connector as some of the wire gauges are different on the same rail (and some branch).
 
It's true for 24-pin as well. On this one below I had the PSU the wrong way up compared to the motherboard socket. So I would have had to mirror all wires, but instead I just swapped some of them around within same voltage to minimise crossovers.

atx24-done.jpg


white=ground
blue=5V
light blue=12V (not visible in pic)
dark blue=3.3V
black=others

The dark blue double wire that you can see goes from the voltage sensor (pin 20 on the PSU) and can be spliced into any of the 3.3V wires on the motherboard side. I chose pin 13.
 
Is there any need for that douple wire at all? I was thinking about leaving that pin 20 empty. Because I bought that Silverstone PP05 cable set, (so that I have extra set to check my wirings :D should have bought that tester...) and that set had no wire at all in that pin... And it is compatible with that PSU, so it should be ok to skip that pin?
 
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Yes, you can skip that pin. It helps the PSU adjust v-droop at high load, but the PSU still works within the ATX specification even without it.
 
Do you know how much does it effect on that v-droop? Maybe I put it there after all. Am I right that I have to make it that double wire way and I can't use that MB side pin 20 for that? I believe that pin had some meaning before but not anymore these days, if I remember right?
 
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