Guys what air cooler to buy for new 4930K

M

Marcdaddy

2[H]4U
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Feb 21, 2003
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Any suggestions, i will be doing some Overclocking as usual, Space is not a issue as long as its fits in my full tower case.
 
For high-end air, the old Noctua NH-D14 or Phanteks PH-TC14PE, should do fine.
 
I got everything in my shopping cart on Newegg except for the cooling ( Happy day i sold off $600 of parts and video cards ) so now im going to drop $1350 for the Chip/Motherboard/Ram/Cooling. I still have my 2600K @ 4800 Mhz ( air ) , 8 gigs of ram and Asus IV Maximus mobo to sell, Hopefully this upgrade will only cost me about $500 to $600 total out of pocket.
 
Noctua NH-D14.

For better performance, use a fan on each tower blowing towards the center of the tower.

This will drop the temps by a few degrees over having the 120mm on one tower and the 140mm in the middle.
 
I suppose the other options would be the Silver Arrow SB-E (and the extreme edition of this, which has high-RPM fans), and the Phanteks PH-TC14PE.

I had thought that those 2 were the top performers actually (with the NH-D14 close behind), and that the Silver Arrow SB-E had the best stock fans (noise / performance). But I'm not sure it's going to matter much.
 
No delidding here! Im a noob at that sort of thing and it looks like i wont need to.
 
cyclone3d said:
Noctua NH-D14.

For better performance, use a fan on each tower blowing towards the center of the tower.

This will drop the temps by a few degrees over having the 120mm on one tower and the 140mm in the middle.
Click to expand...

I am curious about this. Have a Raven 03 and in that config I would assume push pull would be better, no?
 
Blackbird said:
Eh, you CAN'T delid IVY-E, if you try you will kill the chip.
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Not true. People said the same thing about Sandybridge (which is also soldered together)

Turn out, it's not all that difficult, it's just time consuming. You can sand straight through the heat-spreader to expose the core safely.
 
Unknown-One said:
Not true. People said the same thing about Sandybridge (which is also soldered together)

Turn out, it's not all that difficult, it's just time consuming. You can sand straight through the heat-spreader to expose the core safely.
Click to expand...
What would the purpose of that be?
Fluxless solder transfer heat better than any thermal paste in the world.
 
Blackbird said:
What would the purpose of that be?
Fluxless solder transfer heat better than any thermal paste in the world.
Click to expand...
You still have to use thermal paste somewhere. Removing additional layers generally doesn't hurt.

If you're using a soldered IHS you end up with:
Core > solder > copper plate > thermal paste > copper plate > solder > heatpipes.

If you delid, you cut that down to:
Core > thermal paste > copper plate > solder > heatpipes

Assuming your heatsink doesn't have any issues dealing with the smaller surface area (exposed heatpipe coolers, as an example), should result in some small gains.
 
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Unknown-One said:
You still have to use thermal paste somewhere. Removing additional layers generally doesn't hurt.

If you're using a soldered IHS you end up with:
Core > solder > copper plate > thermal paste > copper plate > solder > heatpipes.

If you delid, you cut that down to:
Core > thermal paste > copper plate > solder > heatpipes

Assuming your heatsink doesn't have any issues dealing with the smaller surface area (exposed heatpipe coolers, as an example), should result in some small gains.
Click to expand...

what this guy said
 
tatm Mrk.RIVE said:
From what I understand you put the lid back on after you scrape ooff the crap TIM
Click to expand...

You only have to do that if the retention bracket of your heat sink / waterblock can't mount correctly with the additional gap.

Very possible to mount directly to the core without a heat spreader or shim
 
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