27" QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 impressions

Does this monitor use PWM on the lower brightness settings?

I had a Yamakasi Catleap 2703 that just killed my eyes because of the low PWM cycle rate.
 
where to order in EU? i don't want to pay 20% custom tax...from 1.7 we have 22% tax !!!!!!
 
I just received my QX2710 and I have to say that a dead pixel would be paradise compared to the Back Light Bleed that I have.

The bleed is SEVERE at the top left-center and is visible with the monitor brightness at 0. The bleed extends 30% of the monitor.

I ordered my pixel perfect QX2710 from Green Sum and had to pay $57 Canadian for duty because they didn't mark the package a gift. I'll post photos this evening.


UPDATE:

Pre-Backlight Bleed Fix:
1000


Post Backlight Bleed Fix:
1000


FOLLOW THIS GUIDE FOR BLB! Comprehensive, step by step, and totally f'ing awesome! Please update post #1 with these videos. Thank you David Thomson!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huVFLCSwQzY&list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE

I followed Davids instructions until step 13. At that point I used standard electrical tape and it didn't make any difference. I was very concerned at first but I thought I should connect the monitor with the metal LCD bezel removed. Without the metal frame attached to the panel the BLB was reduced significantly. There was still some BLB but I suspected that was due to the panel sitting in the display housing without proper support. By proper support I mean the floating metal rails. Without those rails and metal frame the panel will warp slightly which looks like BLB. At this point I concluded that the metal frame was the problem like some people in this thread suggested.

Now the real question isn't "where do I put tape"? The best way I found to resolve this was first to slowly TWIST the metal frame.

1. First I put it on a table and kept adjusting until only the ends were slightly elevated, damn near flat. You may find that this alone fixes your BLB issue. It definitely helped me but didn't fix the BLB completely.
2. Assuming that flattening your frame didn't fix your BLB completely then I would suggest trying to twist the metal frame.
3. Imagine your holding the top of the frame with your hands about 6 inches apart and your knuckles up. Now twist the frame in your hands by rotating your hands forward until you can't see your knuckles.
4. I only did this for a second and then let go, I didn't want to overflex and cause a drastic change in the alignment of the frame. You're only trying to alleviate pressure.
5. I suspected that the edges of the metal bezel were too concave and were compressing the sides of the display, causing BLB. By twisting the bezel in the opposite direction, making the frame slightly convex in the areas with BLB (Only the top and bottom), but maintaining the perfectly flat stature of the frame I was able to get incredible results.

I hope that the frame adjustment instructions above make sense, I would have made a video but I honestly didn't think it would work. This took me over 3 hours because every time I made a change I would reconnect the monitor to test. The problem is that you don't know if it really was a success until both the metal frame and the rails are attached.

With the provided cable I can do 120hz with no artifacts. The problem now is where do I get a 25 foot ultra high quality dual link dvi cable?

I hope this helps some people. Thanks again to David Thomson for the wonderful tear down video.

EDIT: I updated the above description of the Frame Twist... I used the term BEND originally which I think gave the wrong idea.
 
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^^ great info and tyvm

FYI dream-seller is doing like a 20% discount on these for 288.90.
 
God damn, another sweet korean monitor. So sad, mine just doing 60hz 1440p
 
@Pastuch
Pastuch said:
This time I twisted the top and bottom of the metal bezel up and away from the edges of the viewable screen area. I suspected that the edges of the metal bezel were too concave and were compressing the sides of the display, causing BLB. By twisting the bezel in the opposite direction, making the frame slightly convex in the areas with BLB (Only the top and bottom), but maintaining the perfectly flat stature of the frame I was able to get incredible results.
Click to expand...

Could you please post some pictures of the rail mod? I am going to be doing this tonight or tomorrow since I have 4 day weekend.

Thank you so much!

Does this look good?
http://imgur.com/Z6uK2BC (Obviously not that much bending, but do I have the right idea? I have bleeding on the top and bottom, sides are ok.)
 
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Nope, not the right idea. I've been trying to make a picture of it but I have to admit I'm struggling.

In the photo you linked you're pulling the frame apart as opposed to twisting the frame outwards from the back of the monitor. A decent analogy would be when you twist a wet cloth to rinse it, though with much less force (obviously). Imagine your holding the metal frame in your hands with your knuckles upwards, then you twist the frame in your hands by rotating your hands until you can't see your knuckles.

1000
 
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SirVanderhoot said:
So is this chart out of date or are there really no 6xx or 7xxx cards able to support this monitor?

I've been eyeing this one for a while now but have held off on pulling the trigger for some time. Right now I'm running a 7970 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131457, which apparently has a DVI-I Dual Link port, which according to wiki has both the digital and analog integrated into the connector.

Would I be able to run this monitor or not? I've been kicking around the idea for a monitor upgrade for a while now, my 28" WUXGA is getting a bit long in the teeth and I don't want to step down to 1080p, even if it does mean getting a higher refresh rate. This monitor seemed like a happy medium compared to the other 27" 1440p IPS monitors, being dirt cheap doesn't hurt either.
Click to expand...

Yes, I don't know why all the korean ebay sellers have DVI-I Dual Link listed as not being compatible. DVI-I Dual Link = DVI-D Dual Link when you connect a DVI-D Dual Link cable to the port. Some one posted this the overclock forums. It's the only accurate explanation I've seen:

uqhsLO6.png
 
Quickstrike said:
Does this monitor use PWM on the lower brightness settings?

I had a Yamakasi Catleap 2703 that just killed my eyes because of the low PWM cycle rate.
Click to expand...

It's very likely it uses PWM, I can see obvious flicker at the lowest brightness setting (i.e. duty cycle is at it's lowest). A potential solution would be to set the monitor brightness to the highest setting (100% duty) to eliminate the source of the flickering. Then adjust your brightness in software with NVIDIA control panel.
 
27 inch panel that does 2560 for less than 300 bones wow!
 
I got mine in from dream seller today. This thing is great. I got a "perfect" panel and it has 1 dead pixel. I contacted the seller about it because I think he refunds $5 for each dead pixel.
 
I did it!. I am down to what seems like 2% bleed compared to around 40% before the mod.

I followed the you tube video till step 13 on Page 13 of this thread (coincidence?).

I removed the metal frame that goes around the LCD completly, only used the two metal pieces to screw the lcd panel to the plastic case (back cover). Then I took a flat head, and slowly grind-ed the bottom sharp edge of the plastic frame (front cover). The tiny sharp edge on the bottom was causing most of the bleeding as it would push on the LCD panel when the plastic cover was on. Then I also twisted the top and bottom of the plastic cover as instructed on page 13 of this thread. This all took me about 5 hours as I did not figure this all out in a single try. I hope this helps everyone. Once you can get the LCD panel back into the plastic casing and have nothing touching it, the bleeding goes away.

I am happy now! Big thanks to Pastuch for guidance, and also the dude that made those youtube videos.... just wow!
 
jscheema said:
I did it!. I am down to what seems like 2% bleed compared to around 40% before the mod.

I followed the you tube video till step 13 on Page 13 of this thread (coincidence?).

I removed the metal frame that goes around the LCD completly, only used the two metal pieces to screw the lcd panel to the plastic case (back cover). Then I took a flat head, and slowly grind-ed the bottom sharp edge of the plastic frame (front cover). The tiny sharp edge on the bottom was causing most of the bleeding as it would push on the LCD panel when the plastic cover was on. Then I also twisted the top and bottom of the plastic cover as instructed on page 13 of this thread. This all took me about 5 hours as I did not figure this all out in a single try. I hope this helps everyone. Once you can get the LCD panel back into the plastic casing and have nothing touching it, the bleeding goes away.

I am happy now! Big thanks to Pastuch for guidance, and also the dude that made those youtube videos.... just wow!
Click to expand...

Happy to help, but I'm curious, you flexed and twisted the plastic frame or the metal frame? Your instructions above are a little confusing.
 
I tried to flex the metal frame, it did nothing...
I tried the electric tape, it did nothing...
I just took the metal frame out. That removed the bleeding from the corners.
Now there was bleeding on top and bottom. That is when I twisted the plastic frame, and also ground away the sharp edge on the bottom side so it is smooth (this took an hour) with a flat head... I did not not have a file tool.

HINT: The plastic frame is responsible for at least 25% of the bleeding caused, so if you just take care of the plastic frame, you will notice results (for people that are too good at opening and putting together small parts).
 
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I decided to pick up 4 of these monitors; 1 for my wife, 3 for myself. Of the 4, 2 are damn near perfect (basically no noticeable BLB), 1 has very minor BLB, and 1 had very noticeable BLB.

Using Pastuch's instructions I was able to reduce the BLB on the worst monitor (3 obvious bleed spots) by a good 75%. Between bending the metal frame and leaving out the 2 middle screws at the bottom of the bezel, I eliminated 2 obvious bleed spots and greatly reduced the 3rd.

I was tempted to reinstall the panel in the plastic case without its metal frame but was concerned that it would sit too loosely in the housing. For the monitor I took apart the remaining BLB was being caused by the metal frame. I could tell this because I plugged the monitor in without the front plastic bezel, while on its back, and observed the bleeding disappear slightly as I pulled on the metal with my fingers. I may try jscheema's approach at another time and see if it helps at all.
 
Im tempted to get one of these at the current sale prices.

Is pixel perfect actually supposed to be "perfect"? They still have the same slide in the listing saying 1 center / 5 out of center before its defective.

Are these still getting up to 96hz?
 
Was using my plastic wedge to try and separate the metal frame to reduce some BLB. Accidentally the whole thing :(

d6K7C0E.jpg
 
Cheetoz said:
Was using my plastic wedge to try and separate the metal frame to reduce some BLB. Accidentally the whole thing :(
Click to expand...

Ouch! That sucks man. I've got all of mine cracked open atm and I seriously hope I don't end up with a wrecked screen for all my efforts.
 
Cecil said:
Im tempted to get one of these at the current sale prices.

Is pixel perfect actually supposed to be "perfect"? They still have the same slide in the listing saying 1 center / 5 out of center before its defective.
Click to expand...

No, pixel perfect is actually a marketing ploy, there's no evidence of any testing on "pixel perfect" monitors. Someone on overclock.net just got a "pixel perfect" monitor with a row of 7 dead pixels. The sellers seem to know this and will give a partial refund or $5 each dead pixel.

Cecil said:
Are these still getting up to 96hz?
Click to expand...

Yes, I OC'ed mine to 120Hz no tearing, slight IR early on seems to have worked it's self out. Does 96Hz perfecty.
 
Will these monitors work on a 15" retina Macbook if I use an active adapter?
 
Checking back in, just got mine yesterday (took longer to get from the DHL depot to my apartment than it did from Korea to Seattle) and I'm very pleased. A little bit of backlight bleeding in the lower center, but no dead pixels as far as I can tell. Haven't tried overclocking yet but I'm really happy. Kind of wish I had the GPU power to run three of them now.
 
It's been a while since I've posted on [H], no updates or anything to talk about I guess...

Anyways, I have one of these monitors now. It was a bit of a fiasco but has a happy ending. A few weeks ago after hearing about this monitor and doing a lot of research, I ordered a "pixel perfect" one from green-sum on Ebay. The monitor arrived quickly, but had a bright pixel stuck on red dead-center. I contacted him and after having to first turn down his offer for a $20 refund (my old 1080p tn didn't have stuck pixels, so I didn't want to "upgrade" to a monitor with pixel issues!), he then replaced it for free. The replacement was indeed "pixel perfect," but had awful yellow BLB on the bottom and bottom right corner. Today I took the time to take the monitor apart, and it was pretty immediately apparent that the metal frame holding the lcd panel was warped. There were large gaps between the frame and panel in the places where I had the bleeding. I took the frame off, and found that it wouldn't lie flat on a table. I was able to slowly twist/bend it until it was much flatter, and then I wrapped all four edges in electrical tape. After putting the frame back on, I found that the right side still had a fairly nasty gap, so slid another piece of tape into the gap and then folded it over. Ghetto...but after re-assembling the monitor, I'd say about 90-95% of the bleed is gone :D

So far I've been able to OC it to 96hz with the stock cable, it goes to 120hz but there are faint scanlines. I have a feeling I can probably get this to work as well with some tinkering, but I'm pretty happy with 96hz so far. Colors and viewing angles are a huge upgrade from my old TN, as is clarity from the extra resolution. My GTX 570 is going to need replacing at some point, but so far disabling AA and turning down textures a bit has kept my games playable. I'm probably going to transition to either a GTX 780 or SLI'ed 760's, but I'm waiting to see if AMD brings out anything later this year that may drive prices down some.
 
I followed Remmib's debezel and paint guides over at overclock.net and then mounted my screens on some VESA desk mounts. Here's a shot of the final result (sorry about the image size):

t9ry.jpg


It took up quite a bit of my weekend but I'm really happy with the results. :D
 
Are you all using a particular guide to do overclocking? Where do you start?
 
Cheetoz said:
Was using my plastic wedge to try and separate the metal frame to reduce some BLB. Accidentally the whole thing :(

d6K7C0E.jpg
Click to expand...

You tried to remove the metal frame with the monitor plugged in? That is the one thing I would highly recommend avoiding. Taking the metal frame off is the hardest part and requires a good amount of pressure.
 
Artificiary said:
I followed Remmib's debezel and paint guides over at overclock.net and then mounted my screens on some VESA desk mounts. Here's a shot of the final result (sorry about the image size):

It took up quite a bit of my weekend but I'm really happy with the results. :D
Click to expand...

Looks amazing man, nice job
 
I'm kinda jealous, soon I'll have something similar, just bought one of these monitors yesterday... Hopefully it has no BLB or dead/stuck pixels and OCs to 120Hz.
 
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