Yes, your Macbook Pro is running too hot, and yes, it IS Apple's fault.

Doward

[H]ard|Gawd
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Ugh, totally forgot the video - starts 9m26s to show the issue:
Macbook Overheating Issues

Let me preface this by saying the blame is NOT with Apple's engineers. I understand and absolutely applaud their methodology and execution in the Macbook Pro line.

However, Apple's manufacturing and assembly need help.

We're going to go into why:

Apple's machine work on the heatsinks is sub-par, immediately causing poor contact, and thus poor heat transfer from the CPU/GPU to the heatsink.

This is compounded with entirely too much heatsink compound on the dies.

First, a little information that seems to be *sorely* lacking in the Apple community (some materials engineering):

The very best heat transfer method is direct metal-to-metal contact. Unfortunately, once you separate a piece of metal into two pieces, you will always have air between the two pieces, due to surface imperfections.

Now, if you were to look at a flat piece of metal under a microscope, you would see this:
1-s2.0-S092849310300033X-gr1.jpg


See those valleys, dips, mountains?

Now notice the roughness average (known in the industry as RA) values.

The roughness average of a polished mirror finish is usually 3-5 microinches. That NiTi 80 has an RA of 1 micron (1 micron = ~39 microinches), and you see the valleys and mountains.

Here is an image of a proper heatsink base (Taken from Swiftech's website):
MCX603-v-base.jpg


Do you see how reflective the surface is? That means there are very few valleys. I'd say that Swiftech heatsink has an RA of 3-5 microinches.

When I pulled the heatsink out of my Macbook Pro, I was astounded. While I don't have a profilometer available, I'd estimate the RA of the heatsink copper pads in the neighborhood of 40-60 RA. That's freaking pathetic in a system that you pay the kind of money you do for a quality Macbook Pro. I've seen better heatsink bases in a DELL for crying out loud. Now, my lapping was not the best job in the world. I may have gotten the RA down to the 25 range, but it certainly helped.

If you'd like to read more on surface finishes, check out Wikipedia. Plenty of reading, and you can start doing some thinking on your own - Surface Finish

So what the heck does that have to do with all the heatsink goop I see spread around like peanut butter on a sammich? (mmm sammich - sorry, I'm hungry) Glad you asked!

Direct metal to metal is the best heat transfer mechanism, as we've already stated, but we have those surface imperfections that we can't even see to deal with.

Enter: heatsink compound.

See, air is a great insulator; air does not allow heat to transfer effectively. We use heatsink compound of low thermal resistance to 'fill in' those little valleys and imperfections, so we don't have air keeping our heat transfer at bay.

The normal white stuff you see is usually a ZnO (zinc oxide) mixture. And yes, it does the job. However, something like Arctic Silver works even better at facilitating that heat transfer (pure silver is about 10x as thermally conductive as ZnO), so we can move that heat out of the CPU and into the heatsink system.

That's also why it is SO important to have AS LITTLE HEATSINK COMPOUND AS POSSIBLE to fill those voids in the metal-to-metal contact patch. Copper is about 9x as thermally conductive as ZnO, so having too much heatsink compound hurts thermal transfer rate.

To reiterate, this is *not* the fault of Apple's engineering team. The heatpipe assembly is good, the fan control is good, the exhaust system is... well, ok, I think they could have done better there, honestly, but they did the best they could within those design parameters.

Under normal conditions that most use their fashionable Macbooks in, the raw heatpipe transfer will keep the laptop CPU/GPU under ~120F (49C). Heck, I have 11 tabs open in Chrome (one of which is Youtube, my channel actually) and carrying on a couple conversations in both Adium and Colloqey, and I'm sitting at 106F (41C) temperatures at the moment.

The CPU will remain clocked down, the discrete GPU stays off, and things are great.

Now, once you start pushing things, (such as encoding a 40+ minute 1080p Youtube video) CPU clocks come up, discrete GPU comes online and clocks up, and yes, heat starts getting really generated. Fans start ramping up to keep up with the thermal demands, exhaust gets blown out the hinge area, and away we all go.

I have hit 201F (94C) while doing these full power encodes, and once the fans are up and running (5500rpm, not even full 6200rpm) temperatures tend to stabilize around 185F (85C), which I imagine is right where the engineers want it maxed at around. If I pop the Macbook Pro up on a 1" thick book so the exhaust area has more room to 'breathe' and push the fans to 6200rpm, I can get my temps down to 175F (79C) while does those full encodes. I have no thermal throttling at any time for any thing.

Let me also mention that I have the BTO 2.5Ghz Quad i7 - NOT the normal 2.2 or 2.4 Ghz versions.

Whomever Apple has manufacturing their heatsinks, seriously needs to get on the ball with providing a properly machined surface to attach to the logic board.

Whomever Apple has assembling the laptops, needs to learn how to properly apply heatsink compound.

Combine too much heatsink compound with poor heatsink machine work, and you know what you have?

A Macbook Pro that runs too damn hot.

I hope this was helpful for you all. Questions? Comments? Keep your blind fanboy-ism, but constructive discussion, I'm all for.
 
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People have been removing the excess thermal compound and re-applying the correct amount since the original MacBook Pro (2006)
 
People have been removing the excess thermal compound and re-applying the correct amount since the original MacBook Pro (2006)

Pretty much this. OP is detailed, but arrives at a known conclusion with a known remedy.
 
I own a retina Macbook pro and I have no problems with heat but I do agree that most laptop manufacturers do a poor job of applying thermal compound in their products.
 
It's not just the paste that's the issue -

The machine work on the copper pad for the heatsink is completely bunk. Look at the video, it's a 50-60 RA at best.

Lap/polish the heatsink, then apply Arctic Silver, and then you will have fixed the thermal issue.
 
Just realized I never did post the video. It's in the original link, you can see the issues for yourself.
 
This is the fault of their engineering team. Engineers oversee the manufacturing, not just design. Engineers are involved in nearly every aspect of technical products.
 
Just tried this on a Mac Mini 2012.

First things first: the heatsink covers two chips. One is the CPU, the other is the controller hub. Thermal paste was spread over both. The problem is the controller hub has about 1mm spacing in between the heatsink and chip which means if you want contact you need.. a lot of paste in between. This is less than ideal.

Perfect contact with CPU though. With the changes, I've dropped 10c idle and my load temps are a lot lower as well. I can do more thorough testing it later.

I used Arctic Silver 5 so there is some cure time.

Lastly, I turned it around and popped my fan on top of the bottom cover of it. I'm thinking about modding it so that i can remove the cover and have the fan on top of the components. This should provide adequate airflow and cooling for my tastes.
 
When has there ever been a heat sink or CPU that was polished to a mirror finish from the factory?
 
When has there ever been a heat sink or CPU that was polished to a mirror finish from the factory?

I believe you mean OEM heatsink.
There are many aftermarket heatsinks that are polished smooth and have a mirror-like finish.
 
Oh wow... I mean, when I was a kid and I first learned about replacing stock TIM I thought that more TIM meant lower temperatures. It was like a TIM sloppy joe sandwich. But I was a kid. You would think that huge tech companies would know better.
 
It's not like they don't know, but they have to mass manufacture them as cheap as possible with unskilled labor.
 

That's typically what one would find in any OEM laptop. After being in the repair biz for a while, that is what I would find under 99.9% HeatSinks from Dell, HP, Toshiba, Apple, IBM / Lenovo. Anyways looks mighty dusty under there how was your dust management?

This thread has me itching to do some cleaning and perhaps a little lapping for my MBP heatsink. Although there are no thermal issues to speak of...yes it runs warm to mildly hot under load but its a laptop with minimal thermal dissipation built-in...not a custom water-cooled loop.
 
I installed Fan Control and it has made a huge difference. It runs louder, but it is cool when under load. I am going to pull my HS tonight and swap the old paste out with AS5.
 
I clean the old thermal material off with 91% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol.
 
How many people open up their Macs? Doesn't this void your warranty? If I bought a Mac I really don't expect this for the premium I paid.
 
How many people open up their Macs? Doesn't this void your warranty? If I bought a Mac I really don't expect this for the premium I paid.

probably just about everyone that is actually into working on computers :p
 
probably just about everyone that is actually into working on computers :p

The fact that it is a mac gives it more satisfaction, not because its the name, but because it defies the status quo. At least for me..
 
How many people open up their Macs? Doesn't this void your warranty? If I bought a Mac I really don't expect this for the premium I paid.

Yes, it does void the warranty. But the devices that most need this sort of treatment are most likely out of warranty anyway, unless the owner bought the 2 year Applecare extension.
 
The fact that it is a mac gives it more satisfaction, not because its the name, but because it defies the status quo. At least for me..

haha I see your point, a lot of people think they're so much harder to take apart, personally I just think they're more time consuming. Not really difficult.

Yes, it does void the warranty. But the devices that most need this sort of treatment are most likely out of warranty anyway, unless the owner bought the 2 year Applecare extension.

Mine's 10 years old, I think I may be out of warranty :p
 
Hmm, I'll have to check mine out. I've lapped the last two processors/coolers in my desktop so we'll see how Apple set their's up.
 
haha I see your point, a lot of people think they're so much harder to take apart, personally I just think they're more time consuming. Not really difficult.

Totally agree. They are time consuming :(
 
Yes, it does void the warranty. But the devices that most need this sort of treatment are most likely out of warranty anyway, unless the owner bought the 2 year Applecare extension.

Incorrect. This no more voids your warranty than replacing your ram or hard drive.

Same rules apply, though - if you short out your motherboard replacing the ram, then you're boned.

If you short out your motherboard replacing the heatsink compound, then you're boned.
 
haha I see your point, a lot of people think they're so much harder to take apart, personally I just think they're more time consuming. Not really difficult.

Totally agree. They are time consuming :(

Eh, I don't find them more time consuming than anything else. Fiddly, yes, but time consuming? I can pop my logic board out in about 15 minutes.

Hmm, I'll have to check mine out. I've lapped the last two processors/coolers in my desktop so we'll see how Apple set their's up.

Do a before and after temperature check, if you don't mind!
 
Incorrect. This no more voids your warranty than replacing your ram or hard drive.

Incorrect. From the terms and conditions:

The Plan does not cover:

c Any equipment with a serial number that has been altered or removed;

You open your Mac, you lose your Applecare. That includes replacing your RAM or hard drive. If you're still under warranty and want to replace those, then you take it to an Apple Store and have them do it. Otherwise, you void your warranty.
 
Eh, I don't find them more time consuming than anything else. Fiddly, yes, but time consuming? I can pop my logic board out in about 15 minutes.



Do a before and after temperature check, if you don't mind!

I meant more along the lines of it being like 12 screws, where as to replace a HDD in my EliteBook it's a cover that slides and 2 screws. Same thing, same difficulty, different methods lol
 
Incorrect. From the terms and conditions:



You open your Mac, you lose your Applecare. That includes replacing your RAM or hard drive. If you're still under warranty and want to replace those, then you take it to an Apple Store and have them do it. Otherwise, you void your warranty.

How does anything mentioned here alter or remove the serial number?
 
Incorrect. From the terms and conditions:



You open your Mac, you lose your Applecare. That includes replacing your RAM or hard drive. If you're still under warranty and want to replace those, then you take it to an Apple Store and have them do it. Otherwise, you void your warranty.

Ummm, ok. What that means is they will not cover a HDD or DIMM that was removed from the system.

I have opened many macs in my time, and that did not void any warranties.
 
The emphasis on the poor machining is a bit odd, I'd bet simply replacing the heatsink compound alone will fix the issue. In my experience with overheating laptops, cleaning up the heatsink assembly and replacing the heatsink compound nets most of the gains.
 
How does anything mentioned here alter or remove the serial number?

The quoted section refers to altering any hardware that has an Apple serial number. Not removing the serial number, altering a device that has a serial number. Meaning, replacing your Mac's HDD counts as altering a device with a serial number.

Of all the legalese in the world, that was not nearly the most difficult to read.

Ummm, ok. What that means is they will not cover a HDD or DIMM that was removed from the system.

I have opened many macs in my time, and that did not void any warranties.

You and Doward should both read the terms and conditions.
 
The quoted section refers to altering any hardware that has an Apple serial number. Not removing the serial number, altering a device that has a serial number. Meaning, replacing your Mac's HDD counts as altering a device with a serial number.

Of all the legalese in the world, that was not nearly the most difficult to read.



You and Doward should both read the terms and conditions.

Funny, I just had the screen replaced on this MBP under Apple Care, and it has user upgraded RAM and SSD, and the warranty was fully honored on the original equipment. Same with many macs I have dealt with over the years. Xservers, laptops, imacs, Mac Pros, Power Macs, etc.

Guess you don't know what you are talking about, total shocker I know.
 
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