Frank's 2013 upgrade.......

extide said:

................If you have an ohm-meter you can test for continuity between the pins which would be grounds on each connector, and likewise for the +12, etc. If they do connect all together then you are probably pretty safe.........
This really is a beautiful build. I really don't usually follow build threads, but for some reason this one just intrigues me

Click to expand...

Cool, will pull out the volt meter and give it a check. Thanks for the concern/education/feedback/input on these dual PSU's. I actually follow you pretty well, I used to be a DC power engineer working with 500-10K Amp systems. So -48v DC power, feedback, proper grounding, loops, noise, etc was my life for many years once.

Well Frank doesn't get to upgrade but once every year to two, so we can understand the intrigue , its just time. and its so epic and hey, we caught your attention with the dual PSU's, then you saw the extreme overkill on everything else and are like a deer caught in the headlights

deadlift1 said:

Ah, the cold, honest, painful truth. But so worth it for the sheer satisfaction, pride and enjoyment you get out of the finished product.

Now get Frank operational.

Click to expand...

You got that right! Oh ok, will try to do so this weekend. If all goes well.

Hey add to the list above another $25 for a freaking 5/8" hole saw for the drill. I have two Koolance Fillport items I am going to use as a pass through on the motherboard tray. I purchased Bitspower QDC's that have G 1/4 threading I will then screw in on one side, and the Bitspower compressions on the other side of the fill ports to give me a solid disconnect point between the motherboard GPU's and the lower cooling system. The runs going from the RePack will have the QDC's directly attached to the RePack inlet/outlet. My intention is to make it so I can disconnect from the cooling systems and remove the motherboard tray without having to drain any loop at all. Then once the MB tray is removed, if I wanted to only drain the GPU loop I can and work on it outside the case. So that is the plan............

I figured before I went full bore into building this weekend and trying to get Frank up and running, I wanted to take a few minutes and show the goodies on the tray in the case, etc. At least share some eye candy before the weekend drought, because I will be too busy to post progress. Modders hat is off for now/builder hat firmly planted - main goal is get Frank operational, then I will go back to modding/cleaning/cabling/sleeving/etc.A week on a single 27" screen with this laptop is driving me nuts knowing how much more I can get done if I had full use of Frank N Stein and all four screens. Its time to get him up and running ASAP.

So best wishes to all - have a great weekend - bbl - enjoy!

I don't think I've ever wanted a weekend to go by fast, I can't wait to see the weekend after update and the process you made. Its time for Frank to awaken!

Well I ran out of tubing this weekend. So the task of getting Frank up and running was cut short due to lack of tubing. I also realized I had ordered the wrong 5-1 PCB boards for the fans, so need to get the right ones before I can connect most of the fans.

The things I can see that need to be done before leak testing:

• More tubing
• Make 4 power extensions for the fan 5-1 PCB's to the fan controller
• Install 4 more 5-1 3pin PCB Power boards for MB/CPU Loop fans
• Connect the fans for the MB/CPU Loop to the Power PCB's
• Make 2 power extensions for the dual D5 pumps below
• Fix/splice both power cables in RePack Dual D5 Reservoir
• Create temp probe monitor wire extensions

Leak Test Workflow

• Reverify all connections as much as posible
• Visually inspect loops for kinks and potential hazards
• Visually inspect connectors to verify proper connectors were used (e.g. no SLI slider fittings on CPU blocks, etc)
• Prefill both loop reservoirs with initial liquid introduction
• Check Reservoirs for leaks with liquid in them
• Jumper PSU with only RePack single D5 Pump connected to power - fill loop 1
• Check for potential leaks in the loop
• Reverify there are no leaks - use a flashlght and magnifying glass if necessary - better to catch it in initial stages if applicable
• Remove MB/CPU Loop Single pump Power
• Connect GPU Loop with single pump power
• Fill Loops 2
• Connect Second GPU Loop Pump
• Connect both MB/CPU Loop D5 Pumps
• Let it sit and pump - fill reservoirs as needed
• Let sit 12+ hours Running while checking periodically...........

Things left to be done to just fire up Frank

• A successful LENGTHY leak test
• SSD Caddy power connected
• HDD Hot Swap Bays Power connections
• DVD/BR Player Power connected
• Power ran to the fan controllers from PSU
• Wire the case power button to motherboard
• Wire the case power LED unsert to the MB and install in front of case
• Wire the case Reset button to the MB
• Wire the HDD activity LED to MB and install in front of case
• Connect both flow meter connections to the Heat Master
• Connect all 4 Coolant temp probes to the Heat Master (2 per loop)
• Connect power to 5.25" bay display
• Connect communication cable to Heat Master from 5.25" Display
• Run power for the top front 3-120mm fans
• Connect all external Monitor cables
• Connect all External Device Cables
• Conect all external Power cables

So for now - here are some images of where we are at...........

Well there comes a point in all my builds when my other half finally says "ENOUGH". That point arrived this weekend. However, I also was in the middle of a "Critical needs" list as well. No longer buying pretty items or things to make Frank "prettier", just needing to focus on getting him operational again. So my list was completed this morning and I made the last order for quite a while this morning for the critical items I need to get this monster alive again.

I have some RMA's working this week that will require me to turn right back around and get the items I need. I am also having to see if Bitspower will RMA this mod top - one corner of one reservoir will not snug up, like the hole was never threaded or something. So not too excited about putting liquid in that 250ml reservoir with the base not sealing properly. I am also dealing with the MM case that isn't fitting perfectly with the MORA3, may have to rig some oles a bit wider to see if I can get it to work.

So the last critical list looks like this:

20 x Female 3-Pin Fan Pins - 3 Pack $5.80
Need to make cables to power fans in bottom of case - cannot turn on PC without them

2 x Bitspower Rotary Fitting "T" - 180 Degree Water Cooling Accessory - Black Sparkle Finish - Nozzles: No Nozzles $23.00
Need to insert enter/exit temp probes for GPU loop to monitor - cannot turn on system without this being monitored

4 x Bitspower Dual G1/4" High Flow Fitting - Black Sparkle Finish $19.96 Need these to finish the connections I need to make in order to finish the loops so I can fill to test

4 x Phobya Double Nipple G1/4 AG to G1/4 AG Revolvable - Black Nickel $14.76 Need these to also finish connections where I need to spin the connections

4 x *** NEW *** XSPC G1/4" to G1/4" Bulkhead Fitting - Black Chrome Finish $19.96 Need these as pass-through openings to run the tubing from top to bottom - not "critical" but reduces the amount of tubing I need and is cheaper than buying even more tubing

2 x *** NEW *** PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 10ft Tubing - 1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD - Crystal Clear $49.98
Cannot do anything without tubing to install the loops - ran out, cannot fire up PC without them

So this is it - time to get Frank operational, then clean up the cables and see where I can go from there. However I think there is quite enough already in Frank to be the epic beast I expected. The beauty will really start to pop when I do the custom cables. A couple months of not buying anything and I should be able to do the grills eventually

I usually don't even get to start before my better half says "enough"
She catches me looking at rigs like yours and I get "You better not be getting any ideas" lol

Can't wait to see more from Frank. I've been following this thread for a while, surprised I've never posted before now.

lol, well ty for checking in and checking out the build. Yeah I just know to fold the browser down when she is walking into my office - always sparks a heated conversation every time she catches me looking at geek pron - "im like yeah but at least its not like real porn or anything" - she says "yeah its much more expensive". lol

Lots more to go and do, so the "enough" isn't like this build is dead or anything, just got to do with what I have instead of just buying more shiny things to make it look different. For now at least........

Getting Frank operational is first and foremost. The main hang up I can see if the dual mod top that was hosed out of the box now that I have to wait on Bitspower to reply to PPCS to see If they will honor a RMA on this - its never been used, installed but not used. Its actually fine if I do not want to use the top reservoir but I paid $49.99 for that res and need I for the return flow from the GPU's, so its kind of a critical piece I want running. Then lots of cable clean up going to be going on for a couple months I see happening then we should be clear to get grills and call it done.

do you guys even get to enjoyr your computers or is the fun just in building something insane? I see so many builds where it goes on for yrs, i always wonder if the computers are ever completed.

See-Fu said:

do you guys even get to enjoyr your computers or is the fun just in building something insane? I see so many builds where it goes on for yrs, i always wonder if the computers are ever completed.

Click to expand...

what build goes on for years? procrastinate much...

See-Fu said:

do you guys even get to enjoyr your computers or is the fun just in building something insane? I see so many builds where it goes on for yrs, i always wonder if the computers are ever completed.

Click to expand...

Oh yes, I very much get to enjoy my builds. If you followed my last thread, once done I began benchmarking and also gaming and showing info on that. Then I basically used Frank as he was for almost a year, well shy of a month. Then the itch hit, the orders started flying and it was time to upgrade. Once this gets under your skin, its hard to stop modding, you may finish a rig, but your always looking at it going - hmmm, I could do this and that and this and that and oh shit, lets just build another.................The only reason a build should take more than say a week or two is when there is a shit ton of detailed and custom work going into it - or your building a freaking mini-fridge sized monster of a PC like Frank.

Robertmarcus said:

what build goes on for years? procrastinate much...

Click to expand...

A PC owned by an overly OCD plagued person that can never stop "perfecting" the build. Not that there are any of them on this forum or anything I mean those guys are like upgrading, and rebuilding and modifying something all the time or upgrading previous perfections to achieve the next one ................hmm I think I may know someone that resembles that........

yea i didn't go through the entire thread, i just looked at the last and first and noticed this things been going on for a LONG time. looks like you made some deletions/additions after you finalized it.

See-Fu said:

yea i didn't go through the entire thread, i just looked at the last and first and noticed this things been going on for a LONG time. looks like you made some deletions/additions after you finalized it.

Click to expand...

All my build threads go for months - because there are so many details, things going in and out, etc. So yeah, things have somewhat changed, the upgrade started out one direction (upgrading in the 800D) to an epic build in a custom Mountain Mods case. Nothing ever got finalized or built then changed, its just taken this amount of time for the custom parts to arrive etc - so hang out, we got more to go.........

You can't rush perfection. I say; Do it right the first time and you won't have to do it again. Even if it takes longer to do.

wra18th said:

You can't rush perfection. I say; Do it right the first time and you won't have to do it again. Even if it takes longer to do.

Click to expand...

Always love your input Wra18th - lol

Robertmarcus said:

what build goes on for years? procrastinate much...

Click to expand...

this one, for example. havent heard from him in months, but wouldnt be at all surprised if he was back vigorously modding tomorrow. another one i remember was this epic build, which was a labor of love for multiple years before the respected and talented Langer tragically passed away while on a trip. the build was taken over by another great modder who unfortunately just didn't have the excessive passion that drove Langer to such extremes for that build. these are both extreme examples of course, but i highly recommend taking a look at both builds if you wanna see how long it can really take when you get down to fabbing your own parts and really going all-out.

Most of the parts I need to get Frank operational should - and I emphasize "should" - arrive today or tomorrow. USPS usually delivers within 2-3 days from PPCS and this week has been really bad, an order shipped Monday still has not arrived - so this is the reason for saying "should".

Been working on things I could while waiting on these additional parts to arrive. So I figured I would keep this thread rolling with some updated shots of progress.


Knowing this will all be hidden behind the MORA3, I used some extensions for power cables I already had made and kept the "ugly" end where it will be hidden behind the MORA3 Radiator. I am using these Five-to-One 3-Pin fan power PCB's that seem to work out great, especially in this situation.




This shows the power runs that are going back to the controller and some stitching already going in. These bridges I am using to secure the wires to will be changed out eventually with modified ones that I will drop the red CF on to dress them up - again, I am focused on getting Frank operational ASAP, then the clean up and spiffy things will be done. All in good time I suppose.





So, with the power leads ran to the controller, I used a brick I picked up on eBay by Okdata or something that allows me to power/test things with a 12v Molex, so I attached that to the controller and it powered all 9 of these fans easily. @ 12v (full power) these things were surprisingly quiet, though you could hear them, they were not very loud, maybe as loud as an OEM PC or something, but certainly not the torrential onslaught of audible noise I was expecting.


The Red wrapped radiators. Left to right: Alphacool UT60 360 rad, Hardware Labs Black Ice Xtreme 360 Rad, and the Swiftech Performance 360 rad. Then of course are the favorite Bitspower fittings as well.


Just a shot of the smaller rads in front of the big daddy rat the MORA3 LT RAD all decked out with Xigmatech Crystal Series, Red LED, 120mm >19dba @ 74CFM fans.


I took 4 extra screws, cut the heads off them, and used them as guides to line up the MORA3 LT from inside the case, pushing them through the backsides of the fan holes till they came out the front. Then one by one I would unscrew the posts from the front and replace them with the screw that was supposed to go there. Worked out well until I realized that there was no way in hell this MORA3 LT was lining up with the modded panel holes. No matter what I tried - the top two holes were the only two I could get secured - even using this method.


Showing another shot of the radiators being used in this build.


This didn't go as well as I hoped, but thankfully not as bad as I feared. So I landed somewhere in the middle I suppose. The Dremel had a couple "oh shit get back here" moments, so a scratch ensued in a very obvious area of the CF, then again around the connector it hacked up the CF there too - but overall it was mainly CF destruction that took place, something I would be able to fix potentially. At least the $1k case didn’t get damaged, but the holes did finally end up getting honed out to the point I could insert the pass through connectors. They do not snug up underneath, so I am glad I ordered those others that should be showing up today. Otherwise, I am pleased with the distances, the alignment and the installation of the GPU Loop pass through connectors.






I changed out the black tubing with some clear I found, that works better IMPO, so cannot wait for the rest of the clear to arrive. I also took the Bitspower Black Sparkle Rotary 90 Compression fitting off the "IN" on the CPU and replaced it with a rotary 90 fitting that I could screw the Bitspower QDC into. This works much better visually as well as functionally. Before the QDC was almost hitting the MB making it difficult to separate at the angle it was. By moving the QDC here, it reduced the cluster impact visually and makes it much easier to separate when I need to. The red tubing you see here will be replaced with clear and I will be installing a pass through here as well at the end of the first GPU so minimal tubing will be up top for the pass through to the radiators below.

The most AWESOME PC ever built on planet earth.

FRANK wins planet earth!!!

Sir,

I have been visiting HardOCP multiple times daily for something like 15 years, starting from the day I built my first computer with an AMD 386DX40 complete with the unheard-of power of a 10 MB MFM hard drive. (I was such a stud!)

A million different things have almost been enough to make me sign up and join the forums- Intel vs AMD wars, 3dFX vs Matrox, Nvidia vs ATI, ROGCON, Kyle's haircut, Steve's asian connection--- you name it. But only almost.

Then there is your rig. I look at it, and the only word that comes to mind (when my mind again becomes operational) is...

Amen.

-Aikue
(forum member since 75 seconds ago)

mullet said:

The most AWESOME PC ever built on planet earth.

FRANK wins planet earth!!!

Click to expand...

LMAO - thanks man - more goodness to follow.............

Aikue said:

Sir,

I have been visiting HardOCP multiple times daily for something like 15 years, starting from the day I built my first computer with an AMD 386DX40 complete with the unheard-of power of a 10 MB MFM hard drive. (I was such a stud!)

A million different things have almost been enough to make me sign up and join the forums- Intel vs AMD wars, 3dFX vs Matrox, Nvidia vs ATI, ROGCON, Kyle's haircut, Steve's asian connection--- you name it. But only almost.

Then there is your rig. I look at it, and the only word that comes to mind (when my mind again becomes operational) is...

Amen.

-Aikue
(forum member since 75 seconds ago)

Click to expand...

Dude, so glad to have you here checking out Frank - much appreciated. Please keep checking back, lots and lots more to come, just working like crazy to get him operational, then its beautification time............


Really on a roll atm getting Frank built, but figured I would drop some pics of progress on really quick before I get back into the action. No time to put a little blurb between images - so enjoy, bbl with more.............

The1stCAV said:

The other thing holding me back was screws for the radiators and fans. I had not gotten around to doing a count to see how many of what I needed. Well then the hunt began to find the screws and in red they were not to be found. So I ended up picking these up at Amazon.....
etc, etc, etc...

Click to expand...

I haven't made it through the whole thread yet so I don't know if you are aware but there are red m4x10 screws out there. I am a Radio Control hobbyist and we use colored hardware all the time.

http://www.fastener-express.com/metric-red-aluminum-socket-head-cap-screws.aspx

and for the nuts

http://www.fastener-express.com/lock-nuts-red-anodized-aluminum.aspx

Also, subbed. This is one of the best builds I have ever seen.

Not sure if aluminum hardware is strong enough for this purpose. The rads are heavy enough empty. Add fittings, hoses, water and fans and it may be too heavy. But I digress. I don't know what these are capable of. Just my 2¢

Thank you all for your feedback - I will reply to each post in time, right now just moving forward with progress and wanted to drop a couple more pics to show the front fans are now wired and tested fully, time to clean up wires, get the res/pums installed below and finish that loop tubing. Then its clean up and wiring to the point I can start the leak test. Then its fillin time............

The anticipation is building!!

gosh.. I love this build.....
Wifey saw me looking at this thread and said "Don't you even think about it....."

wra18th said:

Not sure if aluminum hardware is strong enough for this purpose. The rads are heavy enough empty. Add fittings, hoses, water and fans and it may be too heavy. But I digress. I don't know what these are capable of. Just my 2¢

Click to expand...

Well, they will hold the wing on my rc when I roll it over at 45 mph. LOL

You may be right though.

ramrod126 said:

Well, they will hold the wing on my rc when I roll it over at 45 mph. LOL

You may be right though.

Click to expand...

And my Mamba Monster motor in place in my slash 4x4 jumping 10 feet in the air. Hello there fellow RC'er, lol.

Aluminum screws hold up to tumbles on our rock crawlers. It'll hold up a rad that doesn't get any impacts.

I guess I'm hard on stuff, cause I had to move to stainless hardware on my crawler. But anyway, aluminum will be just fine unless you plan to drop it off of a 20ft cliff.

devil_trigger said:

And my Mamba Monster motor in place in my slash 4x4 jumping 10 feet in the air. Hello there fellow RC'er, lol.

Click to expand...

Aluminum grade/hardness is a big factor. The RC racer has a suspension which absorbs much of the vibration. I don't think Frank has a suspension.

StatutoryApe said:

Aluminum screws hold up to tumbles on our rock crawlers. It'll hold up a rad that doesn't get any impacts.

Click to expand...

Aluminum grade\hardness\size is a big factor. You'd be surprised with the jolt the rads get every time Frank's pumps turn on with initial pressure. I don't have custom loops like Frank is getting but it's not much different than any liquid cooling system. Be that on an automobile, locomotive or heating system. I hear my heating system turn on two floors up by the forcing of pressured water thru the baseboard radiator.

I'm talking a RC crawler falling like...10ft. Obviously, you don't use aluminum screws to hold the lower links, but they hold up for crossbraces and whatnot. In any respect, red anodizing would like like shit against the brilliant red that Frank has.

Wow I get busy a couple days and look what you all have done to the place - all this RC stuff and discussions of screws and tensile strengths lol. The answer is yes, the anodizing color of red clashes with Frank's red - most reds do I am finding TBH. I am using stainless steel hardware btw - I think M4 stainless steel is tough enough for Frank N Stein's radiators and fans.

Well I have good news and not so good news, bad news, as well as fantastic news.

The fantastic news will just simply need to wait until its official and I can say - but just a teaser that there is some really fantastic news to share in the very near future.

Now on to the good news and that is the GPU loop was successfully tested all Sunday night and all day Monday without a single drip once the initial moments were corrected. Seems a hard 90 degree connector I had lost its rubber gasket somehow, that got replaced ASAP as the liquid was pouring from the unsealed connection. Then there was a rotary male to male that needed tightened and we were good to go. I guess it had loosened a tad because it was in a section that required me to twist it around to connect to other things and position it etc. In the process of other connections being made, I suppose it loosened a bit and just needed some additional attention. The GPU loop then tested successful where it ran through the MORA3, the GPU's and the Dual Mod Top Bitspower items below - including the 250mm reservoir.

Oh, now comes the not so good news - the Bitspower Mod top only allows for one reservoir to be placed on top - so the duals cannot happen down in the Water barrel - well not this way at least. I am already working on a shopping cart again at the moment because I think I just sold the ERM unit finally. I will miss that thing, but need the $$ to keep this build rolling along. Selling the ERM will give me what I need to do the plan I listed below.

Now for the bad news - something is restricting flow in the CPU loop. I got it filled only to find its not flowing like it should, I mean really badly not flowing like it should - something is blocked somewhere. I have a strange suspicion that it’s in the CPU block, something broke loose I think in the radiators (the only place things could have been) and found its way in to the CPU block. I certainly hope it’s not in the EK water blocks because I have placed Carbon Fiber vinyl wrap over them and I think I may have covered the screws to break them apart to clean them. For some strange reason I am thinking it is one of the radiators in front or the CPU block, just because of the way I see the water/air pockets in the tubing acting. It seems to get good flow from pump to CPU block, but the tube going from the CPU block to the Mosfet got an air bubble that it could not move out until I began tilting the case gently. The point being, the pressure pretty much drops after the CPU, so that is what I am thinking atm. Either way, I had to drain the loop and now forced to do some digging to find out what is clogged in that loop before I turn this thing into one big loop.

By the way, I have plans that will change this build - I think for the better. This comes with and is because of the fantastic news I have yet to disclose until its officially official. All I can say is that Frank N Stein will be as epic of a build as I have ever done and ever conceived of doing all thanks to a recent discussion I had with someone. So stay tuned, good things are coming - but for now I must get things sorted and find out what is blocking the front/CPU loop.

So what’s the plan? The plan will be to purchase another Bitspower Dual Mod Top Extreme and two more Bitspower Black Sparkle mod bottoms. This will allow me to run all four pumps below in series. I am looking to shift the current two pumps out of the RePack Bay Reservoir and set up all four of them in the center of the water barrel all connected in series. Then flanking these pumps on either side, running horizontally from front to back, will be dual 240mm reservoirs. I am thinking of placing red LED's in each end (possibly an LED strip below each running lengthways under them for additional lighting support) - the LED's in each end would be the spotlight kind instead of the kind that diffuse out everywhere, so it shines through the center of the liquid. I will have the front radiators feed the first reservoir tube, that tube feed the first set of pumps, then the next set, then into the other reservoir that will then feed the MORA3. I am considering one huge loop with only one set of tubes running up top to feed the items in the motherboard. Four pumps should be more than enough to push this full loop. I also aim to get rid of the Alphacool RePack bay reservoir. So many reasons I do not care for a bay reservoir, much less this one. So that was the first reason for rethinking the loop, then came the fantastic news that gave rise to the solidification of this new and much better plan.

The loop plan in my head ATM is this...........

D5 Pump Array > 240mm Compression Tube Reservoir > MORA3 LT > GPU 3> GPU 2 > GPU 1 > CPU > Mosfet > South Bridge > Black Ice Xtreme Performance 360 Rad > Swiftech 360 Rad > Alphacool UT60 360 Rad > 240mm Compression Tube Reservoir > D5 Pump Array

I know some say don't do dual reservoirs in a loop, etc - but these reservoirs are compression tops and sealed as much as anything else in the loop - consider them a section of larger tubing in this scenario. If there is pressure leak, then we have bigger leaking issues than just loss of pressure. With the reservoirs of the past that did not have good seals to handle the pumps pressures and caused reduction in pressure I can understand those concerns because they were valid. The reservoirs I am looking to use are some really awesome reservoirs with compression ends that seal very tightly and will allow me to use them in this manner without worrying about pressure drops - also with 4 pumps; I probably could use a little drop if it were actually the case - lol.

This means Frank is still in progress. More to come, but here are some pictures to hold us over.

I had to remove a button head screw as it was blocking my power lead from being inserted into the connector on the motherboard. I knew this back plate was a tight fit around the EK South Bridge water block, but a little wiggle and it went in. This however required the screw to be removed, it was simply in the way and I needed to find a flush mount screw to replace it with. Either way it will not be seen as the power connection will be covering it.



I got tired of Frank peeing on the carpet – so off to the bathroom we went to do the leak tests. Thankfully I have a dedicated bathroom to my office, so Frank didn’t have to travel far. I was thinking it would be easier to clean up any potential mess in the bathroom with the tile. What I didn’t anticipate was that the drips even were going to be an issue unless I laid down some towels – seem the grout is porous and likes to soak up red liquid quickly. Next option is a huge purple plastic table cloth I plan on using to roll Frank onto in the office. More room to work around Frank and serves the same purpose of protecting the carpet from accidents during leak testing.



Bringing Frank close to the CPU mags so he gets a feel for where I hope he is heading one day soon. Just giving him inspiration and a way to visualize his dreams of published glory



Prepped and ready to test the CPU loop – right before I found out something was clogged…………..



A really good solid loop being shown here. It ran fast and with so much force that air bubbles did not stand a chance anywhere. Any bubbles that exited the GPU’s were quickly pushed into the 250mm reservoir below. That reservoir below showed how powerful that fluid was being shoved through this loop.



One of the shopping cart items I have is the Bitspower Anti-Cyclone adapter for this very reason. The pressure was so great, it was tough to get the air out when it was being pushed into this reservoir so hard that it was aerating the water or creating the billions of tiny bubbles in the water as it was dropping through the air pocket up top and into the liquid, it was mixing the air and liquid. The Anti-Cyclone adapter should help with this as well as reduce the swirl. Though this will not be as bad of a problem when I lay the reservoirs on their sides – not these though, I have a couple other clear compression reservoirs in mind.

need some kleenex for all the drooling! Hella nice craftmenship!

I am speechless.... BTW I know no one knows yet but CONGRATS CAV on the news! You should be very proud! I'm also pretty sure that will help with a "Your spending too much money!" from the wife.

Hey now, don't act like you're the only one!

I smell free.

what happened that is good news?

big mouths

The1stCAV said:

big mouths

Click to expand...

that's why..... when you have something to SURPRISE people with... you tell NO ONE in advance

Seeing your build here, has me waning to rip my desktop apart and reorganize it a bunch....

P4B said:

need some kleenex for all the drooling! Hella nice craftmenship!

Click to expand...

Why ty - taking way tooo long to get operational though. I wanna go game damnit, have not gamed in 3 weeks +. But ty, hope you find that kleenex....

eviltone said:

that's why..... when you have something to SURPRISE people with... you tell NO ONE in advance

Seeing your build here, has me waning to rip my desktop apart and reorganize it a bunch....

Click to expand...

lol, yeah no joke.

Tell your desktop Frank and I apologize for the interruption , but once done, it will be a great desktop, better than before.

OK, the CPU loop was tested and I found no blocks anywhere. What I did first was break the loop in half basically. I took the "In" port on the CPU block, and the "OUT" from the South Bridge block and connected them to my little testing pump assy. Then I started filling the reservoir as the fluid flowed into the loop. It ran VERY fast and very strong for such a little DDC Lang. So I was convinced it wasn't blocked in the motherboard area.



Tough to see in this image, but when I was taking it, there was a very long stream of bubbles from the exit of the SB almost half way around the loop to the pump. I was trying to show how strong that flow was from just that little DDC Lang - two D5's should have been torrential and yet they couldn't push some air bubbles through? Something had to be wrong somewhere.



Initially that little tube connection between CPU and Mosfet had an air bubble that wasn't moving much unless I coaxed it via tilting the rig. When I fired up this test - instantly the air was gone - that is what good flow will do and should do. So I was very much convinced my blockage or issue was not in the Motherboard block areas. It had to be a radiator right?



Well the radiator theory quickly diminished as well as the fluid went running like a raped ape through the radiators. This little DDC was still very strong through three radiators. The D5's couldn't seem to push an air bubble from Rad 2 to Rad 3 below, but this DDC sure did, very quickly. Within I would say about 3-5 minutes, we were air bubble free in these rads, they began to run very quiet, no water sounds inside air pockets in the rads - nothing, just a good solid flow.




The flow indicator spinning past the point of being seen is a good thing. So this shows the loop flow was very strong and wide open. There were no blockages in the radiators below.



Showing the ad-hoc loop testing set up and the successful flow between all radiators, solid fluid in all tubes, no air, just a good flowing loop.



I figured while I was here, I may as well drop in some Primochill SysPrep and flushed the radiators loop in case it needed it. It sure could not hurt, so why not? So I put the cleaner in the fluid and it’s been running about 12 hours now and picking out some debris it seems, so good thing I did. I do see some more flakes in the bottom of the DDC reservoir, so if anything it was a positive move to break this loop in half and re-flush the radiators. Always a positive in most situations, even when initially it seems like a bad thing, such as in my case thinking I had blockage which required me to break loops and test, then to flush - then wow, glad I did. So in all I am pleased with the fact I had to do this as I can be sure that when I do get Frank operational, his loops will be debris free.



And you all knew it could not have been my last order the last time I said it was the last order - its never over till its over - lol.

OK, so I just put in my order for the following items to allow me to make this one huge loop and run all four pumps below in the Water Barrel.

1 x Bitspower BP-2D5TOPP-BK Dual D5 Mod Top (POM Version) (BP-2D5TOPP-BK)
2 x Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Mod Kit - Black Sparkle Finish (BP-D5MA-BK)
1 x Bitspower G 1/4" Black Sparkle Dual Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter (BP-BS90R2)
3 x Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Anti-Cyclone Adapter (BP-BSWP-C46)
4 x Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Male to Male Rotary Adapter (BP-BSRG)
4 x Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Stop Fitting (BP-BSWP-C06)
6 x Bitspower Premium G1/4" "Stubby" High Flow 1/2" Fitting - Black Sparkle (BP-BSWP-C14)
1 x *** HOT *** Koolance Tubing Splitter/Manifold, 5-Way Swiveling [no nozzles] (SPL-XFR3)
2 x Lazer LED Light Kit - Red (LAZERR)
Sleeve Color Black
Heatshrink Color Black

Frank N Stein PC Upgrade 2013 is now an officially sponsored build. The great people over at Primochill (as well as Mod/Smart and Kobra Cables) have chosen to work with me and sponsor this build to show everyone how beautiful their products can look when installed and I have to agree they are going to be the icing on the already monumental cake being baked here.

It really was a no-brainer for me as many of you know how I feel about their Primochill Advanced LRT tubing, it's all Frank used once I found it and started using it, even before the newest "advanced" version came out. Frank has also had a ton of good performance from their ICE line of coolants, so it was a very natural fit to combine their awesome products with my expectations of quality, performance, and building needs.

I like to go extreme (in case you have not figured that out yet) and anything I put in Frank needs to follow that model. It needs to be extreme, handle extreme, and remain beautiful all in one. So I think there is a synergy between Primochill's products and the kinds of things that makes Frank extreme. There are lots of great opportunities for Frank to showcase and show off these awesome products from Primochill, Mod/Smart, and Kobra Cables as I continue to work on this build. One of the main things I will be focusing on is their newest line of innovative compression tube reservoirs and why they are so awesome - things I just learned yesterday that made total sense. It’s always the most simple things that sparks those "ah hah" moments that turns out to be the most revolutionary. These new CTR Reservoirs from Primochill are nothing short of revolutionary and for several reasons and I look forward to discussing those as I move forward with this build.

The next few weeks I will be sharing why I chose the items I chose from Primochill to put into Frank for this build. I will be doing videos on YouTube and posting here in the threads as I go along. One thing I want to stress over anything is that I will remain unbiased, if there is something I like or love about something I put into Frank I tell you straight up how I feel. The same goes for something I do not care for, be it a sponsored item or not. For my style of building and modding, I will continue to just say how I feel about the items as I have always done.