I have the Shimian and it works fine on a MBP using the mDP->DL-DVI convertor.
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Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor
- Thread starter Agenesis
- Start date
I have the Shimian and it works fine on a MBP using the mDP->DL-DVI convertor.
Monkey God
Mangina Full of Sand
- Joined
- May 7, 2007
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Mine is the 1GB version, but I dont think that should matter. I did flash it with a 6970 BIOS right after I bought it a year or so ago, that might be a possibility. My other monitors aren't over 1080, so I don't think that's it.
Mine is flashed to 6970 as well, and yes, that shouldn't matter. Is your other monitor detected at all ? Can you duplicate / extend the desktop to the other one ? If while having both plugged, you remove the dvi cable from the Shimian, will the image switch to the other monitor ?
There's a lot of tests you can do to figure out exactly what's going on.
Been lurking this thread for weeks, but haven't come across any specific information regarding brightness/light output settings.
I work on my computer 12+ hours a day and tend to prefer keeping the brightness/contrast settings down to limit light output, thereby reducing eye strain and power consumption. I've read that color calibration is non-existent on these monitors, but can anyone comment regarding brightness/contrast settings? I'd like to be able to limit light output without crushing blacks or blowing out the whites. Is there any variance between models regarding these settings? Thanks.
I work on my computer 12+ hours a day and tend to prefer keeping the brightness/contrast settings down to limit light output, thereby reducing eye strain and power consumption. I've read that color calibration is non-existent on these monitors, but can anyone comment regarding brightness/contrast settings? I'd like to be able to limit light output without crushing blacks or blowing out the whites. Is there any variance between models regarding these settings? Thanks.
As promised, pictures:
Hmm, not sure how to get spoilers to work, seems they don't exist? I've tried
but it doesn't work.
Well hopefully the pictures aren't too big:
A sheet of postage paper over the parcel:
Inside the parcel; plenty of foam padding:
White background check for stuck/dead pixels:
Black background check for stuck/dead pixels:
Setup and running:
The back:
Stand taken off:
VESA desk mount arm on:
On my desk now:
League of Legends on 1440p:
Notes:
- Packaging: If you order the Crossover, you definitely won't be needing any bubble wrap over the package as BCC has added a lot of foam inside, so you don't have to worry even if the box is punctured.
- Power adapter runs warm but not hot, similar to my power adapter for my PicoPSU. Haven't measured power consumption but I can if someone is really interested but these aren't the most efficient monitors, I think it was something between 50-100W.
- Build quality: No defects on mine, the whole thing seems to be made from metal, even the bezel! I thought the bezel would be plastic but I was proven wrong. The white paint on the back scratches off really easily though as when I was taking out the VESA stand screws it scratched the paint a little.
- Stand: It's better than the Achieva Shimian, but not by much. It does seem to weight a little more and it's even mounted in the VESA mounting holes so the monitor shakes less than the Achieva Shimian, but it does still shake.
- Image/defects: There are no major defects with the image, but it does seem more a bit more yellow than it is white. No dead/stuck pixels or flickering issues at all but there is what seems to be a mark in the lower bottom right hand corner if I look at the screen from the top. It's like there's a pressure mark on the screen but I'm not sure how to take a picture of it, I've tried all that I thought of. It's not really noticeable at all unless I put a whole white screen on and look at it roughly perpendicular from the top; quite weird but I'll accept that as the only defect and leave it there. I think a stuck/dead pixel would bother me more than that.
- Gaming: I don't play any FPS games so I can't comment on lag. I can tell you that I used to play LoL with the lowest shadow settings with about 50-60fps on 1080p but on 1440p, even with shadows off, the game runs on about 40fps.
- Setup: I didn't have to play around with anything, it was literally plug and play for me this time. I simply plugged in the dual link DVI cable into my DP to dual link DVI adapter and turned on my PC and it loaded up at 1440p (Windows 8).
If there are any other questions feel free to ask.
And once again mods, if you feel this belongs in "Monitor" or "Hardware", feel free to move it. Or I could repost this post there?
EDIT: Forgot to add the price; It's listed on eBay for $359.99 but I made an offer of $349.99 and it was accepted. I had to pay a total of £10.79 to DHL but they didn't send an invoice or anything so I can't actually see what I paid for VAT and what I paid for admin/handling charges. It seems the price has now gone up to $389.99.
EDIT2: To reduce the yellow levels, I reduced red and green as that forms yellow AFAIK (in RGB colours), seems to have done the trick but I think there's a bit of a yellow tint near the bottom of my screen, it's a bit hard to tell though because if I sit up a bit then the top looks the same as the bottom in terms of whiteness/yellowness. I think the way I've set the monitor up should be optimal though.
If you do order just remember that these aren't the top quality A+ or whatever panels, there's going to be some form of defect or another I guess. I'll take it that the defect with mine is the slight pressure mark and yellow tinting near the bottom.
Hmm, not sure how to get spoilers to work, seems they don't exist? I've tried
blablabla
Well hopefully the pictures aren't too big:
A sheet of postage paper over the parcel:
Inside the parcel; plenty of foam padding:
White background check for stuck/dead pixels:
Black background check for stuck/dead pixels:
Setup and running:
The back:
Stand taken off:
VESA desk mount arm on:
On my desk now:
League of Legends on 1440p:
Notes:
- Packaging: If you order the Crossover, you definitely won't be needing any bubble wrap over the package as BCC has added a lot of foam inside, so you don't have to worry even if the box is punctured.
- Power adapter runs warm but not hot, similar to my power adapter for my PicoPSU. Haven't measured power consumption but I can if someone is really interested but these aren't the most efficient monitors, I think it was something between 50-100W.
- Build quality: No defects on mine, the whole thing seems to be made from metal, even the bezel! I thought the bezel would be plastic but I was proven wrong. The white paint on the back scratches off really easily though as when I was taking out the VESA stand screws it scratched the paint a little.
- Stand: It's better than the Achieva Shimian, but not by much. It does seem to weight a little more and it's even mounted in the VESA mounting holes so the monitor shakes less than the Achieva Shimian, but it does still shake.
- Image/defects: There are no major defects with the image, but it does seem more a bit more yellow than it is white. No dead/stuck pixels or flickering issues at all but there is what seems to be a mark in the lower bottom right hand corner if I look at the screen from the top. It's like there's a pressure mark on the screen but I'm not sure how to take a picture of it, I've tried all that I thought of. It's not really noticeable at all unless I put a whole white screen on and look at it roughly perpendicular from the top; quite weird but I'll accept that as the only defect and leave it there. I think a stuck/dead pixel would bother me more than that.
- Gaming: I don't play any FPS games so I can't comment on lag. I can tell you that I used to play LoL with the lowest shadow settings with about 50-60fps on 1080p but on 1440p, even with shadows off, the game runs on about 40fps.
- Setup: I didn't have to play around with anything, it was literally plug and play for me this time. I simply plugged in the dual link DVI cable into my DP to dual link DVI adapter and turned on my PC and it loaded up at 1440p (Windows 8).
If there are any other questions feel free to ask.
And once again mods, if you feel this belongs in "Monitor" or "Hardware", feel free to move it. Or I could repost this post there?
EDIT: Forgot to add the price; It's listed on eBay for $359.99 but I made an offer of $349.99 and it was accepted. I had to pay a total of £10.79 to DHL but they didn't send an invoice or anything so I can't actually see what I paid for VAT and what I paid for admin/handling charges. It seems the price has now gone up to $389.99.
EDIT2: To reduce the yellow levels, I reduced red and green as that forms yellow AFAIK (in RGB colours), seems to have done the trick but I think there's a bit of a yellow tint near the bottom of my screen, it's a bit hard to tell though because if I sit up a bit then the top looks the same as the bottom in terms of whiteness/yellowness. I think the way I've set the monitor up should be optimal though.
If you do order just remember that these aren't the top quality A+ or whatever panels, there's going to be some form of defect or another I guess. I'll take it that the defect with mine is the slight pressure mark and yellow tinting near the bottom.
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Monkey God
Mangina Full of Sand
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- May 7, 2007
- Messages
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Basically the card will run any combination of multiple monitors if that combination does not include the Crossover. (I have 3 other smaller monitors to experiment with).
If I plug in the crossover by itself, it works fine. If I then plugin another monitor, the new monitor turns on, the Crossover turns off. If I have just an older monitor plugged in, and plugin the Crossover, the Crossover never turns on. Once I unplug the old monitor, the Crossover turns on.
Monkey God
Mangina Full of Sand
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- May 7, 2007
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Correct. Ive been running dual monitors for sometime, through the DVI ports.
Edit:
Solved. I am an idiot. For some reason, I had to go into the ATI control panel, and completely reset everything, identify/detect the monitors again, etc. I had to set the Crossover to a lower resolution, then make it the primary display, fix the resolution, and then add the other monitor. Never had to do that before with other monitors.
Thanks for trying to help.
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Gatecrasher3
Limp Gawd
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- Dec 10, 2006
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- 198
My boner has dropped somewhat for these screens since the 2b boards ended. Are the current screens really locked at 60hz or is it possible to get them any higher?
i was told 67 is max without 2b.
still a nice deal as the base models can be found under 300
silent-circuit
[H]F Junkie
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They're still about half as expensive as the cheapest locally available options... and I don't think sufficient testing was done on the 2B boards, I suspect just cause it will take a 100Hz signal doesn't mean you see anywhere near 100 frames..
I just received my monitor today from Ohmycaptain. If anyone is on the fence...BUY ONE NOW. The colors are outstanding!! I went from a TN like many people, and really was skeptical that I would notice the difference. I am utterly blown away...seriously. My panel seems 100% defect free, and is every bit as awesome as the ACD I almost bought for 700$ more. The whites are beautiful, the stand is not nearly as bad as everyone lead me to believe it was. Great purchase, would absolutely tell everyone who does not have one, to try and get one.
Vengance_01
Supreme [H]ardness
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- Dec 23, 2001
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- 7,215
I have not kept up on this thread, but what are prices at? I still love my basic catleap for 370$. Best damn computer purchase in a long time.
The Achieva Shimian and Yamakasi Catleap both dipped to $290 for a few weeks and the Crossover dipped to about $340 but they've jumped about $30-40 lately. Not sure why though.
samaritano
n00b
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- Oct 29, 2005
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Where did you get the VESA desk mount arm? Monitor looks great by the way.
maybe all the folks reading this thread buying them all up
Gatecrasher3
Limp Gawd
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- Dec 10, 2006
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Heres a question, anyone own a 120hz screen and one of these screens? Would you take a 120hz or one of these screens? I'm still stuck between buying a catleap or a 120hz LCD. A catleap sounds great, but 120hz sounds just as good. So owners of each, what is better, a big colorful screen, or 120hz speed?
I also got a question, what exactly means A- panel?
Does this mean that besides some dead pixels, they also have other defects? I can live with a couple of dead pixels, especially at this resolution, but I can't accept having color differences between parts of the screen.
Does this mean that besides some dead pixels, they also have other defects? I can live with a couple of dead pixels, especially at this resolution, but I can't accept having color differences between parts of the screen.
elvn
Supreme [H]ardness
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- May 5, 2006
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- 5,308
Both imo. Considering the cost of these currently I would get one while I could if I were in the market. 120hz 2ms TN screens with high rtc would be my choice as a dedicated gaming monitor but I use a high ppi+ high rez ips for everything else. Personally I would get one of these Korean ones, accepting of any tradeoffs in gaming and saving up for a 120hz 2ms + high rtc TN later on, hopefully when they drop in price or have a sale someday. They are priced quite high currently imo. That's just my opinion from owning a 60 hz, 10ms+ response time 2560 x 1440 cinema display and a 120hz 2ms response time + high / very high rtc gaming TN.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACHIEVA-Shi...4184?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab90f1888
The seller says the monitor has a "Plug type C for Korea" and I need an adapter? Any suggestions where to get one and what kind? Thanks
The seller says the monitor has a "Plug type C for Korea" and I need an adapter? Any suggestions where to get one and what kind? Thanks
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From what I've heard:
A+ and A- don't mean anything in terms of defects other than their ability to colour calibrate to 6500k. A+ can do it much closer than A- can. That's why Dell/Apple want them.
I don't believe A+ is any better in actual panel quality though, because we've all seen the massive problems that the big brands have had with IPS.
A+ and A- don't mean anything in terms of defects other than their ability to colour calibrate to 6500k. A+ can do it much closer than A- can. That's why Dell/Apple want them.
I don't believe A+ is any better in actual panel quality though, because we've all seen the massive problems that the big brands have had with IPS.
I got it on the UK eBay as I'm from the UK. It's called "CMD WHITE Vision Flat Screen LCD Monitor Arm Desk Clamp". Unfortunately they're not even for sale anywhere in the UK now it seems as when I google it, nothing comes up in the shopping section.
If you don't have a spare one of these
from a computer or monitor you can buy one for a few bucks
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Just an update on the original monitor (Achieva Shimian from dream-seller), I've received a full refund for both the original transaction plus the returns postage to him. He decided to test it himself and didn't return it to the Achieva factory so I basically received my refund a day after he received the monitor. Brilliant seller I must say!
I have no color shift or blotching. They don't guarantee against fewer than 5 pixels being dead, but if you're not happy with it when you get it, you have return options. The VAST majority seem to be getting panels like mine, where you can't tell it apart from an ACD aside from the casing. Buy with confidence
Rumor has it the manufacturers raised praises slightly, not sure if true.
Any thoughts?
halodude23
[H]ard|Gawd
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Is the crossover more reliable than the Yamakasi catleap even though the Catleap can get to 120hz with the right PCB? Not sure how the Shiaman performs but the quality is pretty good also.
I had my sister buy an Achivia Shimian model and an Apple min-DP to DVI-D adapter and it works fine on her MBP. It is dependent on the GPU inside your mac and if it supports it or not. You need to look up the max resolution supported by the GPU and if it's a MBP, lookup the max resoltion out. It's quite possible that you could have a lower max out resolution over mini-DP than the video card supports.
Thanks for the info, yourself and the earlier poster, - Im confident now that the adaptor works with the Shimians - just hoping someone with a Crossover is using one with no issues.
That is IF I HAVE actually decided on a Crossover ! So difficult to choose between all the makes and models.
I suppose the priority for me is build quality - I want it to look "right" next to a 27" iMac - ideally being adjustable to sit at the same height (no naffness putting books underneath ! My studio needs to look the part ...)
Someone on another site said the Shimian IPSB looked better than the Crossover to the eye (rather than in pictures) but I suppose its subjective.
The "over the bezel" glass sounds attractive (IPSB , but the "updated behind the bezel" version IPSI also sounds good. Then again so does the "metal bezel" of the Crossover :-S ohhhh decisions !
XBarbarian
[H]ard|Gawd
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hoping mine is delivered today.. delivery window was 26-29. ordered Sunday 6/24
encore2097
Weaksauce
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WOW! Got it in 4 days (Ordered Thurs received on Monday). Stand is crap but the panel is flawless and looks amazing
Taken w/ camera phone (I dont think I can embed images yet)
Flash 1
Flash 2
No flash
Sorry it took me so long: long story short, I sent it back for a replacement due to 3 dead pixels. 1 of those dead pixels was right in the field of vision on the top-center, was just too visible during normal use.
AW will picked up the shipping charges and I will shell out and additional $100 for a perfect pixel Crossover LED-P 27Q. I want a peace of mind and not to have to go through the hassle of returning one again...
Otherwise its amazing! Superb colors and excellent built quality. Esthetically very pleasing and high end looking. Can't wait to get it back again! Crossover is highly recommended by me, just shell out the extra $ and get a perfect pixel IMHO.
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Sorry to hear that man! I'm sure your pixel perfect one will be awesome! I just pulled the trigger with Accessories Wholesaler thru Ebay. I hope everything turns out OK.
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More inputs, more input lag, and isn't that like 500-600$ ? At that price you throw another hundred and get the HP or Dell.
I would have already done that if Dell/HP would offer me the possibility to order a glossy one.
Anyone can say how do you exactly turn up/down the brightness of Crossover monitor? Does it has buttons?