First Ever Build!

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caligrown

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Sep 17, 2011
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Building my first PC, very excited! I have only ever had laptops, but have done a fair amount of research regarding building a desktop piece by piece and am looking forward to blowing (or investing?) my last paycheck on this project.

1) What will you be doing with this PC? Gaming? Photoshop? Web browsing? etc

Primarily gaming. I would like to be able to run D3, dead island, SC2, skyrim, BF3 max settings. Also like it to handle future games beautifully as I plan on having it for years (must be upgrade-able).

I will also be using it for minor web browsing, and for storage of my collection of music/movies/photos which currently clutter my laptop. (large HDD) (maybe SSD for speed?)

I would like to make the most of the SP2500 speakers I recently picked up, so I think a decent sound card is in order.

2) What's your budget? Are tax and shipping included?

$1200 - 1500max tax and shipping included. More than willing to dish out the extra $2-300 for significant performance/quality increases.

Will be purchasing all parts online: newegg or elsewhere with better deals

3) Which country do you live in? If the U.S, please tell us the state and city if possible.


US, CA, San Francisco

4) What exact parts do you need for that budget? CPU, RAM, case, etc. The word "Everything" is not a valid answer. Please list out all the parts you'll need.

Motherboard, CPU, CPU Cooler, RAM, GPU, Sound Card, Large HDD (games/movies/music/photo storage), SSD? (worth the $?), Optical Drive, PSU & Case

....did I miss anything?.....

I really like the looks of the Corsair Graphite White http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139005&Tpk=corsair%20graphite%20white
but am open to other suggestions.

5) If reusing any parts, what parts will you be reusing? Please be especially specific about the power supply. List make and model.

Only reusing peripherals: mouse, keyboard, speakers, monitor.

6) Will you be overclocking?

As this will be my first desktop, I honestly have no clue. I plan on becoming very savvy though, so quite possibly yes!

7) 7) What is the max resolution of your monitor? What size is it?

I use a 26" e26mv Vizio LED/LCD/HDTV 1920x1080, 60hz

8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC?

I would like to order parts this Sat. or Sun., but can grit my teeth for a few weeks if anything new&improved is soon to come out.

9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? USB 3.0? SATA 6Gb/s? eSATA? Onboard video (as a backup or main GPU)? UEFI? etc.

Once again, new to the terminology but I'll explain my best: I'm looking for outstanding graphics, fast load/processing speeds, I am not going to be using multiple displays anytime soon (maybe someday), not going to be doing any 3-D, would like fast data transfer for movies/etc. I would like it to be up to date RE: new hardware & upgrade-able for the future, so maybe usb3.0 or sata? maybe sli/crossfire for graphics? IDK... I am open to suggestions. Pardon this here noob :eek:

10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license? If so, what OS? Is it 32bit or 64bit?

I will be purchasing Windows 7 64bit, (which version is best for my needs?) And this is included in the budget.



Thanks! Can't wait
 
$240 - Intel Core i5 3570K
$145 - Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H Intel Z77 ATX Motherboard
$40 - Corsair CMV8GX3M2A1333C9 2 x 4GB DDR3 1333 RAM
$450 - Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 3GB PCI-E Video Card
$125 - Crucial CT128M4SSD2 m4 128GB SSD
$120 - Seagate ST2000DM001 Barracuda 2TB 7200RPM Hard Drive
$17 - Samsung SH-222BB/BEBE SATA DVD Burner
$119 - Corsair HX650 650W Modular PSU
$166 - Corsair Special Edition White Graphite Series 600T ATX Case
$27 - Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus HSF for LGA 1366 and LGA 1156
$100 - Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64bit OEM
---
Total: $1549 shipped

I went with Amazon.com since they don't charge CA residents tax like Newegg does. That easily shaved off $100 to $200 in taxes right there. I didn't include a sound card as I'm not up-to-date on that and I'm not sure if the Corsair SP2500 really require a dedicated sound card. Windows 7 Home Premium is more than likely all that you'll need.

If you're not overclocking, you can save a bit of money:
$200 - Intel Core i5 3450
$120 - Gigabyte GA-Z77-D3H Intel Z77 ATX Motherboard
$40 - Corsair CMV8GX3M2A1333C9 2 x 4GB DDR3 1333 RAM
$450 - Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 3GB PCI-E Video Card
$125 - Crucial CT128M4SSD2 m4 128GB SSD
$120 - Seagate ST2000DM001 Barracuda ST2000DM001 2TB 7200RPM Hard Drive
$17 - Samsung SH-222BB/BEBE SATA DVD Burner
$119 - Corsair HX650 650W Modular PSU
$166 - Corsair Special Edition White Graphite Series 600T ATX Case
$100 - Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64bit OEM
---
Total: $1457 shipped
 
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So no need for an aftermarket CPU Cooler if not overclocking?

If I plan to overclock later on in the future will it not be possible with the less expensive CPU/MOBO that you listed?

Thanks for the quick response!
 
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caligrown said:
So no need for an aftermarket CPU Cooler if not overclocking?
Click to expand...
Generally yes. However, now that I think about it, you do live in SF where it gets really hot in the summer right? If so, get the 3rd party CPU cooler.
caligrown said:
If I plan to overclock later on in the future will it not be possible with the less expensive CPU/MOBO that you listed?
Click to expand...
It's possible but more limited: The Core i5 3450 can only be OC'd to around 3.6Ghz (or was it 3.8Ghz?) whereas the Core i5 3570K has a safe OC of around 4.2Ghz to 4.5Ghz. In addition, the cheaper Gigabyte mobo may limit you to that 3.6Ghz OC anyway.
 
Thanks for all your help! I'm leaning towards the more OC-able setup, ordering everything Saturday. If you have any last minute suggestions please let me know :D

Will post pictures as I start my build. Thanks again!
 
IIRC, the superclocked eVGA cards have some sort of issue. I'd recommend the cheaper regular eVGA card.
 
Alrighty, I'll pick up this guy:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2580889

So now my build looks something like this:

GPU: 399.99 EVGA GTX 670 2GB
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2580889

CPU: 239.99 i5 3570K
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Core-3570K-Processor-BX80637I53570K/dp/B007SZ0E1K/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1337247443&sr=1-11&tag=hardfocom-20

MOBO: 144.99 Gigabyte Z77 LGA 1155
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-CrossFireX-NVIDIA-Motherboard-GA-Z77X-D3H/dp/B007R21KBC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336801024&sr=8-1&tag=hardfocom-20

RAM: 39.99 Corsair 8GB
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-1333mhz-PC3-10666-240-pin-Channel/dp/B0055LGG3Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1328640899&sr=1-3&tag=hardfocom-20

SSD: 124.99 Crucial 128GB
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-2-5-Inch-Solid-State-CT128M4SSD2/dp/B004W2JKZI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1337247592&sr=1-1&tag=hardfocom-20

HDD: 119.99 Seagate Barracuda 2TB
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-ST2000DM001-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B005T3GRN2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1337247324&sr=1-3&tag=hardfocom-20

DVD Burner: 16.99 Samsung
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SH-222BB-BEBE-Internal-Software/dp/B006B7R9PU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1337247284&sr=8-1&tag=hardfocom-20

PSU: 118.49 Corsair Pro 650W
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Professional-Certified-compatible-Platforms/dp/B002LVUPZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1337247731&sr=1-1&tag=hardfocom-20

Case: 166.75 Corsair Graphite White
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CC600TWM-WHT-Special-Graphite-Computer/dp/B004O0PAKW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1322960406&sr=1-1&tag=hardfocom-20

CPU Cooler: 26.86 Cooler Master Hyper 212
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-B10-212P-G1-Universal-Heat-Pipe/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1274988668&sr=8-1-fkmr0&tag=hardfocom-20

OS: 99.99 Windows 7 Home Premium
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-64bit-System-Builder/dp/B004Q0PT3I/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1337247182&sr=1-1-catcorr&tag=hardfocom-20

Total: $1,499.02

Looking like a pretty solid setup, once again thanks for the advice!
------still open to any recommendations till Saturday
 
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Just found a dealer on amazon with one last gtx 670 for 390.00!

Snatched it up real quick...:cool:
 
Danny Bui said:
IIRC, the superclocked eVGA cards have some sort of issue. I'd recommend the cheaper regular eVGA card.
Click to expand...

The ones with problems were recalled and eVGA replaced/upgraded everyone who has/had a defective one with a better model.

Shouldn't be an issue any longer.
 
Skillz said:
The ones with problems were recalled and eVGA replaced/upgraded everyone who has/had a defective one with a better model.

Shouldn't be an issue any longer.
Click to expand...

I just ordered the regular EVGA 670.... would the superclocked one be much superior? (given they have no more issues)
 
I noticed that the RAM you mentioned isn't "meant" for overclocking.

Will this be a problem? If so any other recommendations?
 
Wait, what RAM? You can overclock the 670 on your own. Buying the OC edition is for people who don't like overclocking themselves.
 
Oh NVM, I was reading something regarding OC-ing the DDR3 RAM :p

Ordering everything today, let me know if there are any last minute recommendations!
 
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Yeah no need to overclock the system memory. You wont notice any differences even if you did.
 
Got everything put together and running great! Thanks for all the help! I'll post some pictures soon..

I have just a couple questions however, (not sure if this is the right section to post anymore)

1 - So I installed win7 on the SSD with the HDD unplugged to make it simple, got all the drivers installed and it was blisteringly fast. Literally wouldn't even make it to the windows splash screen graphic before it hit the desktop.

But then, once I finished updating everything, got some AV/Malware protection and made a system restore point, the boot-time takes almost a full 20 seconds now, sitting at the Windows logo splash screen.

While it still boots quick, it is noticeably longer (10-15 sec) than it was when I had only installed the drivers. Did I do something wrong? Is this normal?

2 - I should only put the OS, maybe a program or 2, maybe a game or 2 on the SSD correct?

And how/what exactly should I transfer over to the HDD, and how can I make things automatically save to that drive?

3 - Finally, everything in Device Manager is working properly, except for one controller: High Definition Audio Device has a little yellow triangle next to it, with a Code 10 error code (This device cannot start).

There are two other audio controllers, NVIDIA HD Audio, and VIA HD Audio. They are both working fine, and I am getting sound through the line-out just fine.

Did the GPU just take over the audio, and the HD Audio Device controller was cancelled out from the motherboard or something? I'm just curious as it is the only device with any error code.

Thanks! Awesome experience building this beast :D
 
1) Probably because you have the AV installed. Although you did make sure the SATA mode in the UEFI was set to AHCI correct?

2) Somewhat: You have a 128GB SSD so you have a bit of extra room to play with. So you can keep more programs on the SSD as long as they don't exceed 1GB in size. More than that, just put it on hard drive. Games are different: Definitely install 1-3 games on the SSD depending on the size of the game.

As for the last question, keep media files like music, pictures, and video on the hard drive. Just create seperate folders for those like you would normally. As for automatically save files to the hard drive, most browsers and download apps let you designate where the files should be downloaded. So just look in the options for those browser and download apps as to where to save files. As for large sized programs that are to be installed on the HDD, that one you basically have to do somewhat manually: Just create a separate Programs folder on the HDD and whenever you install an app/game, just manually select that separate Programs folder.

As for games you''ve bought on or registered with Steam, for simplicity sake, I'd just install Steam itself directly onto the HDD as you can't select where Steam games are installed to. They're automatically installed in the Steam programs folder. There are apps out there (Steam Mover and Game Save manager I think?) that lets you move some game installs to a different drive and still have it work but I haven't tried them myself. So I can't vouch for them.

3) Not sure.
 
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I have used Steam Mover and can vouch for it. It works great for moving game installs from an SSD to an HDD. Very easy to use as well.
 
-Yes the SATA mode is set to AHCI. Any suggestions regarding the AV slowing down the boot time? Or is it simply something I have to live with to be safe? :/ I am using AVAST Free and Malwarebytes.

-You think I should move Program Files and Users folders to SSD? How about browsers, put them on SSD? After installing windows, drivers and 1 game, I have already used 43G of SSD

-I'll definitely check out Steam Mover, thanks!
 
caligrown said:
-Yes the SATA mode is set to AHCI. Any suggestions regarding the AV slowing down the boot time? Or is it simply something I have to live with to be safe? :/ I am using AVAST Free and Malwarebytes.
Click to expand...
The latter. Though try a different AV like MSE and see if that makes a difference.
caligrown said:
-You think I should move Program Files and Users folders to SSD? How about browsers, put them on SSD? After installing windows, drivers and 1 game, I have already used 43G of SSD
Click to expand...
No to the first, yes to the latter. You can always create a seperate folder for programs on the HDD as I mentioned earlier. Browsers definitely go on the SSD.
caligrown said:
Ok, I'll try mse. Thats both a AV and malware yeah?
Click to expand...
No, just an AV.
 
Hmm, even after uninstalling Avast and Malwarebytes the boot still takes longer... Now running MSE however.

Sorry missed that, so transfer User folders, but not Program files yeah?

Should I also be running Malwarebytes? Or is MSE enough?
 
caligrown said:
Hmm, even after uninstalling Avast and Malwarebytes the boot still takes longer... Now running MSE however.
Click to expand...
I dunno, maybe you have some other background apps running
caligrown said:
Sorry missed that, so transfer User folders, but not Program files yeah?
Click to expand...
Yes.
caligrown said:
Should I also be running Malwarebytes? Or is MSE enough?
Click to expand...
No, do both. When it comes to malware, it's best to use multiple programs. In fact, just two isn't enough IMO. I generally install the following programs:
- AV of choice, usually MSE
- Malwarebytes
- Spybot Search & Destroy with Immunization enabled and updated
- Super AntiSpyware (don't let it startup with the PC)
 
Awesome, thanks Danny. I'll stock up on the anti-malware

-Any idea how to check for background apps? Kinda frustrating the boot up has already slowed down lol
 
Are you supposed to instal av on the ssd or your secondary hds? I just bought a 64 gig and I had many of the same questions..
 
Alrighty, figured out why boot up was taking so long! Very strange though...

I noticed that the first time the boot time was delayed an extra 15 seconds or so was when I first made a system restore point.

SO, I deleted the system restore point, and voila! Boots up in about 3 seconds... Found this little blog, but im not sure if it's the same reason...http://blog.tune-up.com/windows-insights/extremely-slow-bootup-restore-points-might-be-the-enemy/

So now my questions is...... What's the worst that could happen if I run my system w/o any system restore points? If I get some crazy virus or something, I could wipe the SSD and have to reinstall everything, but thats about it correct?
 
A lot of viruses actually hide in system restore. So in the case of a major virus infection, don't use the system restore IMO. The worst that can happen is an unstable or incorrectly working system due to a faulty driver or software install. System restore at least lets you roll back the OS to the point before that software or driver install. With that said, I can't recall the last time I've had to use system restore and even the last time it worked well for me. So IMO, not a big deal.
 
Good good stuff. Once again thanks for all the help! So glad everything's working great, I'll get some pics up here pretty soon

Ugghh, so I have one last little issue. I notice these faint scrolling diagonal lines on my monitor, especially when looking at something dark, or in a dark part in a game. They are very faint, half the time I can't even see them but they are definitely there.

Looks kinda like this:
| \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \|
|\ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ |
| \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \|

Did a bit of research, people said it could be an old cable hooked up to the monitor? I am using an old VGA cable to connect to my HDTV, with a dvi adaptor connecting to the GPU.

Think it would help to pick up an HDMI Cable? Or could it be some kind of interference?
 
Is the Immunize feature on Spyware Search&Destroy only for browsers? I only see coverage for Internet Explorer, does it cover Chrome as well?

Is windows firewall good enough?
 
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