Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor

NCX said:
I can't recommend any of these models for photo work if one wants accurate colours and does not own a colorimeter. I know a few other people received inaccurate Crossovers (blue dominance) like mine, but I have no idea how much the other units very.
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I think this is a Crossover issue specifically from what I'm seeing. 8000K is way off.

My Achieva is something like 6300K according to the older Eye One D2, and 6780K in the middle according to the newer Eye One Display Pro.

Also my uniformity was good on white in terms of color temp ranging from 6498K to 6780K. Brightness was also decent. My only issue is the one stuck pixel an inch from the top in the middle, and the other strange issue is that the top of the black shiny bezel sags... It hid a two pixel line near the top so I removed it exposing the white underneath.

It was held on by various pressure clips that can be pushed in by just pushing inward on the bezel and pulling away from the assembly.
 
This is probably a stupid question, but what's the general consensus on which of the three models (Catleap, Achieva, Crossover) is the "best"? From quality of the chassis, to probability (or lack thereof) of dead/stuck pixels. Any thoughts? I own a colorimeter, so a little color shift isn't a big problem for me.

Thanks in advance.
 
The Crossover appears to have the best chassis. As far as dead pixels go, I don't think it's possible to judge whether there is a statistically significant difference based off of the forum posts.
 
Tempest261 said:
This is probably a stupid question, but what's the general consensus on which of the three models (Catleap, Achieva, Crossover) is the "best"? From quality of the chassis, to probability (or lack thereof) of dead/stuck pixels. Any thoughts? I own a colorimeter, so a little color shift isn't a big problem for me.

Thanks in advance.
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From reading the thread (and owning the Achieva):
The Catleap has a crappy stand, the Acheiva tends to be the cheapest by a few bucks, and the Crossover is slightly better chassis build quality, but slightly higher price.
 
10e said:
and the other strange issue is that the top of the black shiny bezel sags... It hid a two pixel line near the top so I removed it exposing the white underneath
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I had the same issue. The Achieva's are pretty easy to disassemble as I'm sure you can tell since you already removed the black bezel. I just taped a few pennies together (stacked), placed it onto the top of the panel itself in the very center, and put the bezel back together. This forced the bezel to stop sagging at the very top by holding it up and now no more pixels are hidden.
 
Just got my Catleap in!

These monitors really are great. If you are willing to take a small risk the reward is definitely worth it!

33mx4es.jpg


Sorry for the crappy pic...
 
Hey guys. Really interested in this monitor. I have some questions though. It only has dual-link dvi? I saw a korean review(link from this thread) that also includes component,vga etc. Also am seeing a lot of brands like Yamakasi, Achievia, etc... Are all these the same monitor? Is there any sure why to get the latest revision? Is the OSD in English when it arrives? Sorry for all the questions but its really a long thread to through. Can anyone please point to an ebay seller that they got a good deal,packaging from? Thanks again guys in advance.
 
ggp759 said:
Hey guys. Really interested in this monitor. I have some questions though. It only has dual-link dvi? I saw a korean review(link from this thread) that also includes component,vga etc. Also am seeing a lot of brands like Yamakasi, Achievia, etc... Are all these the same monitor? Is there any sure why to get the latest revision? Is the OSD in English when it arrives? Sorry for all the questions but its really a long thread to through. Can anyone please point to an ebay seller that they got a good deal,packaging from? Thanks again guys in advance.
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Some "higher end" monitors come with more input such as HDMI, but I would probably spend a bit more money to get a domestic display in this case. I believe the dvi are all dual link though... (http://www.ebay.com/itm/220976889933#ht_8963wt_1163)

They are different brand but using the same LG ips panel. Most of them don't have OSD.
 
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loapp38 said:
Some "higher end" monitors come with more input such as HDMI, but I would probably spend a bit more money to get a domestic display in this case. I believe the dvi are all dual link though... (http://www.ebay.com/itm/220976889933#ht_8963wt_1163)

They are different brand but using the same LG ips panel. Most of them don't have OSD.
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thanks for the quick reply. i see what you mean. decided to get the dual dvi only model. can you point me to someone on ebay or just use dream seller? Also about the tempered glass. any model that doess not have it?
 
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ggp759 said:
thanks for the quick reply. i see what you mean. decided to get the dual dvi only model. can you point me to someone on ebay or just use dream seller? Also about the tempered glass. any model that doess not have it?
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Most ebay posts will let you know if it has it.

The Shimian IPSB has glass, the QH270 lite does not.

I personally got mine from ta_planet, super fast shipping (i got it with glass to protect the screen from overly pointing coworkers)

Most of the sellers are comparable in shipping speed, so it's up to you which you choose.
 
ggp759 said:
thanks for the quick reply. i see what you mean. decided to get the dual dvi only model. can you point me to someone on ebay or just use dream seller? Also about the tempered glass. any model that doess not have it?
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Personally i would stay away from tempered glass, unless it'll be in an office with rambunctious coworkers, or overly active kids in the house.

Tempered glass models tend to have dust specs stuck behind them and they are more reflective than the ones without tempered glass.
 
SJetski71 said:
Personally i would stay away from tempered glass, unless it'll be in an office with rambunctious coworkers, or overly active kids in the house.

Tempered glass models tend to have dust specs stuck behind them and they are more reflective than the ones without tempered glass.
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I agree, but I got lucky and theres just 1 spec of dust in the bottom left corner of mine, right next to the bezel. I never really notice it. The reflections don't bother me to much, but the amount of times this glass has saved my screen from the pens of coworkers has paid itself off.

Plus the fact that it kind of looks like an iPad always makes me laugh a little on the inside.
 
So need your opinions, I am stuck on two monitors and kinda worried about dead/stuck pixels .. which one of these two should I order? I love the crossover bezel and pivot much better but the pcBank seems to be the better monitor with pixel perfect but ugly bezel.. btw are the pcbanks the 2% that come in matte?

Perfect Pixel - 3View PCBank PB2700 Super 27" LED 2560x1440 WQHD S-IPS Monitor sold by bigclothcraft
or
CROSSOVER 27Q LED-P 27" DVI Computer Monitor (QHD) 2560X1440 16:9 Wide Monitor sold by samsung_korea

Thanks again
 
imsiin said:
So need your opinions, I am stuck on two monitors and kinda worried about dead/stuck pixels .. which one of these two should I order? I love the crossover bezel and pivot much better but the pcBank seems to be the better monitor with pixel perfect but ugly bezel.. btw are the pcbanks the 2% that come in matte?

Perfect Pixel - 3View PCBank PB2700 Super 27" LED 2560x1440 WQHD S-IPS Monitor sold by bigclothcraft
or
CROSSOVER 27Q LED-P 27" DVI Computer Monitor (QHD) 2560X1440 16:9 Wide Monitor sold by samsung_korea

Thanks again
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Read the thread more. The "pixel perfect" guarantees aren't worth a crap, and bigclothcraft isn't exactly a seller with the best rack record.
 
perfect pixel only promises no dead pixels.

The single input also decreases input lag. Not a huge difference, but some people think it makes a difference.
 
doug_7506 said:
perfect pixel only promises no dead pixels.

The single input also decreases input lag. Not a huge difference, but some people think it makes a difference.
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They are both single input and about the same price..

Thanks doug


I have read this thread "more" but I was reading the reviews on OCN and they seem good for the pcBank whereas here its mostly catleap/crossover talk..The only bad complaints I have read about bigcloth was not enough packaging.. If there was a huge difference in price for perfect pixel vs non i would go non but they are the same price hence why I asked the question..
 
doug_7506 said:
perfect pixel only promises no dead pixels.

The single input also decreases input lag. Not a huge difference, but some people think it makes a difference.
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Perfect pixel DOES NOT guaranty no dead pixel. Some of the member still find more than one dead pixels on their perfect pixel monitor as you can find from previous post. The seller will charge you more for a perfect pixel monitor, but refund you if it's not perfect. The funny thing is after the refund you are still pretty much paying the same amount as a regular monitor ($10-20 less maybe?). So why bother:confused:?
 
loapp38 said:
Perfect pixel DOES NOT guaranty no dead pixel. Some of the member still find more than one dead pixels on their perfect pixel monitor as you can find from previous post. The seller will charge you more for a perfect pixel monitor, but refund you if it's not perfect. The funny thing is after the refund you are still pretty much paying the same amount as a regular monitor. So why bother:confused:?
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The two monitors I am looking at are similarity priced it seems prices have gone up since this thread got started. 389-400
 
Currently, the Multi-input versions that I've seen have mostly (all?) been oc'able. But they're also been reported to have 3x the input lag of the standard single-input models. Will everyone notice that? Probably not. I'm an FPS'er though, and can't risk it.

Also, the new website is up. I just sent out messages to bQvle and Scribby to get them set up shop over there. Unless something has changed in the last 2 days, this should not be an issue. We shall find out soon, hopefully. And once there's actually some content on the new site, I'll post the link.
 
Lon3Wo1f said:
Most ebay posts will let you know if it has it.

The Shimian IPSB has glass, the QH270 lite does not.

I personally got mine from ta_planet, super fast shipping (i got it with glass to protect the screen from overly pointing coworkers)

Most of the sellers are comparable in shipping speed, so it's up to you which you choose.
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I want a glossy display though. So i guess i have to take my chances with a tempered glass one?
 
ggp759 said:
I want a glossy display though. So i guess i have to take my chances with a tempered glass one?
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They are all glossy displays you want the lite version which Is glossy without glass. There was one seller who had 2% of his stock being matte but rest all glossy.. Gl
 
Vega said:
Is 100 Hz still the limit for GTX 680 SLI?
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SLi will apparently be limited until Nvidia corrects the SLi part of their drivers. It has something to do with a pixel clock limitation of 400 when running SLi that isn't present when running a single card. I seem to ecall reading SLi was limited to around 90 Hz or less though. HyperMatrix is probably the "go to guy" for a more specific answer.
 
Hmm I'm really undecided on what to get. I'm a student in my second year of uni and I only rarely play console games (I'm a jRPG fan and that's it) and never play PC games (apart from League of Legends). Realistically, it's not going to be at least until 2-3 years that I will perhaps leave my house.

I was wondering if I should get the regular Achieva Shimian QH270 or the one with HDMI input (IPSMS). If they were the same price, of course I'd pick the IPSMS, but in reality, it's $150 (50%) more expensive. There is a TV in my house but with games like jRPGs, I'd rather hide in my room for a week grinding on monsters until I beat the final boss and the game rather than play an hour before being kicked off because someone wants to watch TV or play the Wii or something. But I probably don't play more than 3 games a year... Sigh.. Decisions decisions.

What would you guys do if you were in my place? Note: Student means I don't have such a big budget either.

EDIT:

- I currently use an Asus VS239H, pretty good - a bit more AG than I'd like but it's fine. I had a Dell U2211H and the AG was too strong for me. I've already got an excellent monitor VESA desk mount as the Asus VS239H stand was terribad so I don't need to worry about the stand.
- How are all of you guys living without HDMI? I understand most of you are PC gamers though and probably have a TV for console gaming...
 
A 1440p display is a waste for console gaming. Get a Samsung S27A650D, they cost around 380$ and use an A-MVA panel. The 24" version costs around 220$. The maximum console resolution is 1080p and most games are 720 or less.
 
Question:

I just bought one of the achieva shimians, and on the ebay page it lists the power specs as
Power Input: 24v/3A(Adapter)

Power Consumption: 55W (maximum 72W)
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and on the ebay site it also says that its rated for 220v only.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACHIEVA-Shi...440-16-9-D-Sub-Computer-Monitor-/190655556169

After reading through the thread, it looks like it actually comes with a 4pin 24v 5amp power brick.


So, living in the US I need to do something to be able to power this monitor.

So what my question is, can I buy a 24v 6amp power supply to use with this or does it have to be 5amps?

Has anyone gotten one recently that the power brick is only rated for 220v? Because earlier in the thread it looked like it was universal power bricks that worked in the US.

I ask because as far as I know watts = volts x amps, and I don't know but won't it only pull the wattage it needs? I am certainly a layman when it comes to these things.
 
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Racer_J said:
SLi will apparently be limited until Nvidia corrects the SLi part of their drivers. It has something to do with a pixel clock limitation of 400 when running SLi that isn't present when running a single card. I seem to ecall reading SLi was limited to around 90 Hz or less though. HyperMatrix is probably the "go to guy" for a more specific answer.
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Yup. You are absolutely correct. The limitation seems to be caused by a driver soft-limit which is set to calculate SLI with up to a pixel clock of 400. Not because each card can't do more (I've hit up to 537mhz pixel clock on a single card!). But the fact that it crashes out and kills your card when you go even 1mhz over 400 shows that's the reference number they used when creating the sli drivers/specifications. As previous cards didn't go over 400mhz anyway, it had never been an issue and has only become one now this last month.
 
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NCX said:
A 1440p display is a waste for console gaming. Get a Samsung S27A650D, they cost around 380$ and use an A-MVA panel. The 24" version costs around 220$. The maximum console resolution is 1080p and most games are 720 or less.
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Actually perhaps I didn't make it clear. My main use of the monitor is for the PC, but I would like the ability to connect up my PS3 sometime, and for $150 it sounds rather reasonable.

I mean, I wouldn't be able to buy a TV for $150 would I? But then, on the other hand, $150 is 50% more than the original price pretty much.

Although I'm no power user, I think 1080p res is pretty limiting. As I'm from the UK, Dell U2410 or whatever the 1920*1200 monitor costs more than the Shimian IPSMS anyway. I can live with a dead pixel or two, or dust behind some glass. I'm not going to be a perfectionist when there are 2560*1440 pixels.

Anyway, tl;dr: I will use the monitor 99% of the time for multitasking, but I am tempted to get the one with HDMI output for the rare occasions where I'll play console games 3 times a year as $150 can't buy me a TV. However, what's setting me back is that $150 also means it is 50% more expensive. Opinions?
 
SixFootDuo said:
I wouldn't return it until he has cross ships you the correct model or issues a refund first. I would explain to him that there is no recourse for you if you return the monitor to him in that he is not legally bound by eBay or Paypal to send you anything afterwards.

In fact, if you forward that email to eBay, they will take action against Dream Seller. That is against their rules for a seller to hound a customer for additional money once an item has been paid for and shipped. It's the sellers soul responsibility, for him and his staff to make sure you get the right product. If you recieved an upgrade, you are not bound to return it or pay the difference. eBay and Paypal will tell you this. Even more so, contact the Post Master Generals Office. It's actually against the law for anyone to contact you once an item has been paid for or been shipped for free or to your address accidentally and then attempt to collect money or additional funds out of you. The reason for this is to stop scammers from sending you something you didn't request and then taking you to court and sueing you. Follow your own moral compass but I would follow the rules. They are there for a reason. Mostly to protect you. Another thing, don't believe for one minute these guys are losing money. They are not. At most this mistake means he doesn't make a profit. It's hogwash to think for a second that his entire company is ruined over the loss of 100,000 Korean won. LOL. They think cause we are Americans and we don't speak Korean or understand the Korean currency that we are ignorant. Not the case. I already contacted dcsamsungmall and got him to agree to sell me a Achieva Shimian QH300-IPSM 30" that only costs about 700,000 Korean Won or $620 American Dollars. on Ebay, they are asking $1,000 dollars. Retarded. He said he would ship me one for $795. That's a $200 difference. Those Korean sellers are making money off you guys.
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is another story
for LCD 30 "maybe the seller will get a big profit,because the market 30"is too small but rarely buy
but for LCD 27 "I think sellers get a small profit for the large market demand but must compete on price with other sellers
in korea LCD 27" 2560x1440 IPS sold approximately between $225-275 for standard model
I think it's fair on ebay sell for between $ 375-400 with free shipping
 
I will update this thread with an epically frustrating story.

I purchased my Shimian-lite over 1 month ago. From the first day I got it, I was unable to get anything to display on it. I tried the following things:
  • Bought a US-specific power brick
  • Tried 3 different video cards: ASUS 6950 DCUII, XFX 5870HD, and Nvidia 8800GT.
  • Tried 2 different computers
  • Tried 4 different DVI cables (all tested on other setups)
  • Opened the monitor to check for loose whatever
  • Lots of different monitor config setups
Even after all this stuff, I figured the monitor was bad. Since shipping to Korea is ~$100, I wanted to be sure before I returned it. My expectation was that the seller would verify the bad monitor and ship me a replacement.

Lo and behold, the seller emails me and tells me the monitor works. I was pretty dumbfounded. He even has a full video capture of them unboxing my return, removing all packaging, and plugging it in for testing. I was amazed. Unfortunately his video looked legit, so I agreed to only a partial refund.

I am pretty sad and pissed. I would love one of these monitors, but I have no idea how to drive it correctly, even with my rather extensive array of hardware. Either I was the victim of a really well-designed con on his end, or literally no hardware I have drives the monitor correctly (WTF).

I am a really sad panda. :( I am now out > $250 trying to get that thing to work, and have nothing to show for it. I really hope nobody else has the same issues I had.
 
Ulti said:
Actually perhaps I didn't make it clear. My main use of the monitor is for the PC, but I would like the ability to connect up my PS3 sometime, and for $150 it sounds rather reasonable.

I mean, I wouldn't be able to buy a TV for $150 would I? But then, on the other hand, $150 is 50% more than the original price pretty much.

Although I'm no power user, I think 1080p res is pretty limiting. As I'm from the UK, Dell U2410 or whatever the 1920*1200 monitor costs more than the Shimian IPSMS anyway. I can live with a dead pixel or two, or dust behind some glass. I'm not going to be a perfectionist when there are 2560*1440 pixels.

Anyway, tl;dr: I will use the monitor 99% of the time for multitasking, but I am tempted to get the one with HDMI output for the rare occasions where I'll play console games 3 times a year as $150 can't buy me a TV. However, what's setting me back is that $150 also means it is 50% more expensive. Opinions?
Click to expand...

Doesn't seem to be worth the extra $150 IMO.
 
Ulti said:
?
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Since you will be using it for your PC as well I think the extra 150$ is well worth it if you want the bigger size for console gaming. 1440p is great for school work and multi-tasking.
 
Hey all, i'm new here! :)

Been redirected from OCN to keep track of my precious exclusive Catleap.

Hope everything goes well.
 
Ulti said:
Actually perhaps I didn't make it clear. My main use of the monitor is for the PC, but I would like the ability to connect up my PS3 sometime, and for $150 it sounds rather reasonable.

I mean, I wouldn't be able to buy a TV for $150 would I? But then, on the other hand, $150 is 50% more than the original price pretty much.

Although I'm no power user, I think 1080p res is pretty limiting. As I'm from the UK, Dell U2410 or whatever the 1920*1200 monitor costs more than the Shimian IPSMS anyway. I can live with a dead pixel or two, or dust behind some glass. I'm not going to be a perfectionist when there are 2560*1440 pixels.

Anyway, tl;dr: I will use the monitor 99% of the time for multitasking, but I am tempted to get the one with HDMI output for the rare occasions where I'll play console games 3 times a year as $150 can't buy me a TV. However, what's setting me back is that $150 also means it is 50% more expensive. Opinions?
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Hi, I have the Shimian IPSMS. It has no dead pixels and it is really thin, I did not expect this.
Besides the HDMI port the OSD is also an advantage of this screen.
Also the VGA-port is useful because my Notebook has one VGA port and one HDMI port. With a HDMI-to-DVI adapter the screen doesn't work. With and HDMI-to-HDMI cable I only get a resolution of 1920*1080 but with VGA I get the full resolution.

For you the Shimian IPSMS is be best option I think.
 
Silverpike said:
I will update this thread with an epically frustrating story.

I purchased my Shimian-lite over 1 month ago. From the first day I got it, I was unable to get anything to display on it. I tried the following things:
  • Bought a US-specific power brick
  • Tried 3 different video cards: ASUS 6950 DCUII, XFX 5870HD, and Nvidia 8800GT.
  • Tried 2 different computers
  • Tried 4 different DVI cables (all tested on other setups)
  • Opened the monitor to check for loose whatever
  • Lots of different monitor config setups
Even after all this stuff, I figured the monitor was bad. Since shipping to Korea is ~$100, I wanted to be sure before I returned it. My expectation was that the seller would verify the bad monitor and ship me a replacement.

Lo and behold, the seller emails me and tells me the monitor works. I was pretty dumbfounded. He even has a full video capture of them unboxing my return, removing all packaging, and plugging it in for testing. I was amazed. Unfortunately his video looked legit, so I agreed to only a partial refund.

I am pretty sad and pissed. I would love one of these monitors, but I have no idea how to drive it correctly, even with my rather extensive array of hardware. Either I was the victim of a really well-designed con on his end, or literally no hardware I have drives the monitor correctly (WTF).

I am a really sad panda. :( I am now out > $250 trying to get that thing to work, and have nothing to show for it. I really hope nobody else has the same issues I had.
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:( What seller dude? I mean you tested everything, sounds fishy it worked for them.
 
Anyone know of a DVI switch that supports 2560x1600(or 1440) resolution? I would like to connect my console to it using an HDMI->DVI adapter.
 
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