Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor

bastage said:
I doubt prices are going to fall on one with that many ports. Its too much of a niche.

As far as DP only, virtually every AMD gaming card in the last 3 generations would be fine with that. I think most nV's made int he last few years as well (not sure on the nV side though). For an Eyefinity setup though with these you need at-least 2 monitors with DP (since only one of your DVI ports will be dual link) so it doesn't seem like a stretch to me at all. .
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I think my point is made with a quick search of monitors on Newegg. There is not a single DP-only monitor.

Enthusiasts are a drop in the bucket compared to the entire market for monitors and not even the majority of enthusiasts are rocking >2 displays.
 
R-Type said:
Unless the mythical dp only monitors appear, it would seem more desirable to just grab an achieva or catleap and an active dp/dvi adapter to connect it.
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By having to grab the active DP adapter your adding another 100 bucks to it.. Thats besides the point that active DP adapters seem to fail very often.


kristof said:
I think my point is made with a quick search of monitors on Newegg. There is not a single DP-only monitor.

Enthusiasts are a drop in the bucket compared to the entire market for monitors and not even the majority of enthusiasts are rocking >2 displays.
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I am well aware that there are not any on Newegg. I also remember getting a motherboard with onboard HDMI long before tehre was an HDMI only monitor on newegg, but I have now owned said monitor for 3 years. Before that I remember when there was no DVI only monitors & before that I remember not being above to find a damn D-Sub only monitor too..
Its called progression, there wont be any until there is & given that we have been force-fed DP on our video cards for a few years now the possibility of a DP only monitor shouldn't be unrealistic.. Especially not from something like this that is not being made for govt or large corporations. These things are an enthusiasts product as it is. And as they are now jockeying for position of which is best when there all almost the same something like a common connection that no one else has without adding an extra monitor's worth of cost would do just that.
 
Can anyone recommend a good, but not too expensive (under $200) color calibrator for my shimian?

Also, I understand hardware calibration is the way to go to get true calibration, but are there any good online calibrators to use temporarily? My screen looks a bit more on the green side, and the 20wmgx2's i have next to my shimian look more red in comparison. Just want to try and get all monitors more uniform.
 
FinalAura said:
Can anyone recommend a good, but not too expensive (under $200) color calibrator for my shimian?

Also, I understand hardware calibration is the way to go to get true calibration, but are there any good online calibrators to use temporarily? My screen looks a bit more on the green side, and the 20wmgx2's i have next to my shimian look more red in comparison. Just want to try and get all monitors more uniform.
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Where you live? You can rent my eyeone for $10 and shipping both ways.

This one
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/465156-REG/X_Rite_EODIS2_i1Display_2_Colorimeter_Monitor.html

BTW how you compare it to the GMX2? Motion blur wise?
 
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FinalAura said:
Can anyone recommend a good, but not too expensive (under $200) color calibrator for my shimian?

Also, I understand hardware calibration is the way to go to get true calibration, but are there any good online calibrators to use temporarily? My screen looks a bit more on the green side, and the 20wmgx2's i have next to my shimian look more red in comparison. Just want to try and get all monitors more uniform.
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Grab the color profile for windows from the main OCN thread. Someone posted them after they did a hardware calibration. He mentioned the same thing that by default they have a slight green tint.
 
FinalAura said:
Can anyone recommend a good, but not too expensive (under $200) color calibrator for my shimian?

Also, I understand hardware calibration is the way to go to get true calibration, but are there any good online calibrators to use temporarily? My screen looks a bit more on the green side, and the 20wmgx2's i have next to my shimian look more red in comparison. Just want to try and get all monitors more uniform.
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If you really want a hardware calibrator, I use the Datacolor Spyder 4 Express and it works just fine for all my monitors, cost $114.00.
http://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-S4X...2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1332112810&sr=1-2-catcorr
 
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Vengance_01 said:
Grab the color profile for windows from the main OCN thread. Someone posted them after they did a hardware calibration. He mentioned the same thing that by default they have a slight green tint.
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I'm not sure how effective it is to use someone else's calibration profile for these monitors. We know that there are different revisions of the panel and the controller out there, and the TFTCentral reviews of the Hazro models (which also use this panel) showed different default color.
 
tony-kun said:
I'm not sure how effective it is to use someone else's calibration profile for these monitors. We know that there are different revisions of the panel and the controller out there, and the TFTCentral reviews of the Hazro models (which also use this panel) showed different default color.
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I understand, but what do you have to loose. Its free right ;)
 
Just placed an order for the Catleap lite from dcsamsungmall. Already shipped via FedEx within hours!
 
kristof said:
I think my point is made with a quick search of monitors on Newegg. There is not a single DP-only monitor.

Enthusiasts are a drop in the bucket compared to the entire market for monitors and not even the majority of enthusiasts are rocking >2 displays.
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It's funny, Nvidia said DP would not catch on back when ATI/AMD introduced it first a few generations back, yet their upcoming GTX680 is rumored to have it now. Times change and so does hardware. I would rather have benn able to have gotten a DP only monitor rather than a DVI only monitor and used an adapter just to future proof myself.
 
Dumb question: Why is everyone so interested if getting 1 and only 1 connector of their choice?
 
knight427 said:
Dumb question: Why is everyone so interested if getting 1 and only 1 connector of their choice?
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With a single input the monitor doesn't require a scaler or really anything beyond a basic signal processor. This allows the display to have much lower input latency and will therefore be much more responsive in games and such.
 
R-Type said:
With a single input the monitor doesn't require a scaler or really anything beyond a basic signal processor. This allows the display to have much lower input latency and will therefore be much more responsive in games and such.
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Its also cheaper to make :D
 
i sent an email to green sum last night and got a reply tonight. i guess he wasn't able to keep up with emails but he sent me a tracking number and my monitor has been in san francisco customs since friday. i ordered on the 13th, and it arrived in the USA on the 16th, pretty good shipper!
 
R-Type said:
With a single input the monitor doesn't require a scaler or really anything beyond a basic signal processor. This allows the display to have much lower input latency and will therefore be much more responsive in games and such.
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There's no technical reason why the monitor couldn't have DVI, HDMI, and DisplayPort and still not have a scaler. They just choose not to make that configuration.
 
Ordered from greesum as well, he told me he was hit hard with too many orders like never before and lot of people have ordered from him in the last 2 weeks or so.

I should have gotten my monitor on saturday but the customs held it for a day and it is already out and in my town now. I should have it tomorrow.
 
R-Type said:
With a single input the monitor doesn't require a scaler or really anything beyond a basic signal processor. This allows the display to have much lower input latency and will therefore be much more responsive in games and such.
Click to expand...

Vengance_01 said:
Its also cheaper to make :D
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tony-kun said:
There's no technical reason why the monitor couldn't have DVI, HDMI, and DisplayPort and still not have a scaler. They just choose not to make that configuration.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the explanations.
 
andrewbub said:
i sent an email to green sum last night and got a reply tonight. i guess he wasn't able to keep up with emails but he sent me a tracking number and my monitor has been in san francisco customs since friday. i ordered on the 13th, and it arrived in the USA on the 16th, pretty good shipper!
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i just realized it stops tracking from the korean side once it gets here and found my tracking through usps, it actually arrived in town tonight, hopefully getting it tomorrow
 
So, ordered Crossover from dcsamsungmall yesterday.

It is already shipped today and I have a Fedex tracking number. Fedex says it'll be here on 22nd :)

Now that is some fast shipping!
 
I pulled the trigger and purchased a 3View PCBank PB2700 last night from Dream-seller! It's the cheapest with the best reviewed and has the potential to sit the lowest given its double jointed stand. My desk is kind of high so the height was a bit of a factor. If the stand doesn't live up to my expectations, I could probably get a replacement mount/stand for the ~$80 difference between the 3View PCBank and the Crossover LED-P so I thought why not.

I'll post as many pics and answer any questions once I receive this slightly less popular model. I don't have any equipment to do any special tests though.
 
This seems like an incredible deal. S-IPS, 27", high res, low input lag, glossy (if that's your thing), etc. But the fact that these monitors don't have an OSD menu bothers me. People have reported that the gamma is off and they have a bit of a green tint, and I'm pretty ocd about correcting that sort of thing. You should not have to use an ICC profile or your drivers to correct a screen.
 
Beast Mode said:
You should not have to use an ICC profile or your drivers to correct a screen.
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Then they shouldn't have to sell you this monitor for $370. This monitor is all about the panel. If the other crap doesn't work for you, either:
A) Live with it knowing you have a high-res 27" monitor for less than 50% of the American options
B) work around it by spending some of the massive savings to compensate (aka get a new stand or calibrator) or
C) STFU and don't buy it.
 
I will be receiving my Crossover monitor today. (WOOOT!)

Ordered on Thursday - so its a 2 day shipping time not counting the weekend. Freaking incredible considering its coming from S. Korea.

Anyways, if I am spending this much money on a screen, I want to make sure I get all the mileage I can out of it. Anyone know of any good calibrating software/hardware that I can use to make this thing look even better? I don't need anything crazy or professional quality - not even for photos or much of anything - just want to make sure it looks good and accurate. Thanks!
 
Minimum cost is going to be around $100 for a hardware calibrator that can handle the gamut of this screen.
 
Beast Mode said:
This seems like an incredible deal. S-IPS, 27", high res, low input lag, glossy (if that's your thing), etc.
Click to expand...

Don't buy into this monitors hype. Ever heard the term "too good to be true?" Well what do you expect when there's a Korean $250 knock-off of a $1000 version of the Apple Cinema Display or the $1000 Dell U2711? (It's only $370~$450 on Ebay to pay for shipping costs + markup)

The monitor is complete crap. It has "made in China" written all over it. I ended up getting the Catleap Q270 model which is pretty much identical to the Achieva Shimian. These are the issues I'm having:

-crappy cheap plastic to where pieces broke off during shipment
-wobbly stand and has an obvious lean to the right
-massive colorshift where the white turns to a white-ish yellow towards the bottom of the screen
-Unable to "overclock" past 65hz as all the new models no longer support this feature (probably for a good reason)

I didn't have these problems but these are also common problems you'll most likely have if you get one of these monitors

-dead pixels & dust behind the glass if you get the tempered glass model
-massive backlight bleeding all around the bezel of the screen
-faint horizontal scan lines

It's still a hell of a deal though being able to get these monitors for around $350-$450 on Ebay. You can literally have 3 of these in nvidia surround or amd eyefininty for the same price as one ACD or U2711. What you pay for is what you get though. Don’t keep your expectations too high. Not trying to be negative just trying to help a few people out from jumping on this over-hyped bandwagon like I did.
 
Seyumi said:
Don't buy into this monitors hype. Ever heard the term "too good to be true?" Well what do you expect when there's a Korean $250 knock-off of a $1000 version of the Apple Cinema Display or the $1000 Dell U2711? (It's only $370~$450 on Ebay to pay for shipping costs + markup)

The monitor is complete crap. It has "made in China" written all over it. I ended up getting the Catleap Q270 model which is pretty much identical to the Achieva Shimian. These are the issues I'm having:

-crappy cheap plastic to where pieces broke off during shipment
-wobbly stand and has an obvious lean to the right
-massive colorshift where the white turns to a white-ish yellow towards the bottom of the screen
-Unable to "overclock" past 65hz as all the new models no longer support this feature (probably for a good reason)

I didn't have these problems but these are also common problems you'll most likely have if you get one of these monitors

-dead pixels & dust behind the glass if you get the tempered glass model
-massive backlight bleeding all around the bezel of the screen
-faint horizontal scan lines

It's still a hell of a deal though being able to get these monitors for around $350-$450 on Ebay. You can literally have 3 of these in nvidia surround or amd eyefininty for the same price as one ACD or U2711. What you pay for is what you get though. Don’t keep your expectations too high. Not trying to be negative just trying to help a few people out from jumping on this over-hyped bandwagon like I did.
Click to expand...


Everything you described is known. Shouldn't have got the Catleap if you didn't want a shitty wobbly stand or the cheap plastic arch thing. Scanlines are probably due to a poor quality cable (no, the included cable isn't very good... but it was shit with my $900 Planar and $600 Samsung a few years ago too, no surprise there).

The only thing valid you brought up is the rather dubious quality control -- there have been dead pixels, and there have been issues with dust and backlight bleed, but those with these issues are in the minority. The chances of getting a "bad" panel appear to be around 1 in 5 at present (dead pixels or backlight bleed). Many are getting perfect panels, or panels with only 1 or 2 dead pixels, and this is very common even from "top tier" manufacturs selling in the US like ASUS, Samsung, etc.

Given what you're getting and the price, they aren't overhyped at all... you just went in expecting perfection and were somewhat unlucky. I'm sorry for that, but that's just part of the game with this sort of thing. If you want certainty you have to pay for it. It's far from "complete crap"... and I've got news: everything's made in China now. Everything.
 
I don't really get it, I mean, most of those complaints, aside from the stand, are issues present on nearly all IPS panels you can buy today. I don't think I've ever seen a Dell or HP (sans maybe the dreamcolor models) that didn't have panel uniformity issues.

My Shimian is just about perfect. Yes, the color was a bit off, but it was easily corrected. Aside from that, there are no dead pixels and no backlight bleed, so what else do I have to complain about? Lack of inputs? No OSD, which I don't miss one bit? For this price, not so much, and I doubt a 1080p signal would look all that great on it anyway.

Maybe I just got lucky, I don't know, but I'm definitely satisfied with it. I also have a Catleap that I've been (trying) to sell, but unfortunately, despite these display's popularity, no one seems to want to take it at $340 + ground shipping ;)

The Catleap isn't so perfect, though. It does have one green stuck pixel and a bit of backlight bleed along the top.
 
Seyumi said:
-crappy cheap plastic to where pieces broke off during shipment
-wobbly stand and has an obvious lean to the right
-massive colorshift where the white turns to a white-ish yellow towards the bottom of the screen
-Unable to "overclock" past 65hz as all the new models no longer support this feature (probably for a good reason)

I didn't have these problems but these are also common problems you'll most likely have if you get one of these monitors

-dead pixels & dust behind the glass if you get the tempered glass model
-massive backlight bleeding all around the bezel of the screen
-faint horizontal scan lines
Click to expand...

1) Congrats - Chance to happen on all monitors.
2) Should have done SOME research.
3) Congrats - Chance to happen on all monitors.
4) Big deal - can't overclock a monitor - its like complaining your CPU can't overclock to 5.5ghz when 1% of them show that they can.

6) Congrats - Chance to happen on all monitors.
7) Congrats - Chance to happen on all monitors.
8) Scan lines are either due to bad cable or bad attempt at overclocking.

yeah.. no.
 
sonic_blue said:
If you do the calibration a certain way you can avoid that kind of thing from happening. Like, if set your backlight first so that you only have to lower RGB in the LUT as little as possible. And checking your LUT that it's not converting RGB 000 to RGB 111 or anything above 000. Some calibration software tends to do that and it hurts the black level thus lowering contrast a few hundred points. What I tend to do is manually clip RGB 1&2 to RGB 0 to ensure that black stays as black as possible. Often video contains "noise" in those 2 shades near black when for all intents and purposes it might as well be black.

Anyway I'm sure you're probably aware of all this as you still have ~900:1 contrast which is very good post-calibration :)
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Basic color isn't changing black brightness it's changing white brightness. That's pretty typical regardless of whether the RGB is being changed in the screen's OSD (which does not exist here) or at the video card. If I raise the brightness to a higher amount the black level will also rise, which still reduces contrast.

The ~900:1 contrast ratio is pretty good after calibration though. Anyone who says that 1000:1 or 900:1 are noticeably different either has a very trained eye, or deluded :D

SJetski71 said:
csshih did a pretty credible input lag test on the model with the scaler (Shimian IPSMS) and posted his results in the hot deal thread.

Exactly 1 frame of lag, (1 frame = 16ms) and running a non-native resolution which will 'sometimes' add a few ms to the results. That's pretty darn good imho and nothing for 99% of us to cry about.


NCX you were right on the money.
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If you add the U2312HM's pixel response time (~ 5ms) it's closer to 23-24ms but still not bad for a screen with a dual-link scaler running at non-native resolution.

The 0.6ms was electronics lag only that's why I'm saying that.

tony-kun said:
That 30" display has a 102% color gamut. I think I'm pretty much done with anything that's not SRGB. Too much hassle doing color management in Windows.
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Agreed unless it can do gamut emulation which is a high-end feature of much more pricey screens.
 
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Beast Mode said:
This seems like an incredible deal. S-IPS, 27", high res, low input lag, glossy (if that's your thing), etc. But the fact that these monitors don't have an OSD menu bothers me. People have reported that the gamma is off and they have a bit of a green tint, and I'm pretty ocd about correcting that sort of thing. You should not have to use an ICC profile or your drivers to correct a screen.
Click to expand...

HP has a 27" monitor nearly identical to this that anandtech just reviewed and it costs $700. it also has no OSD.
 
MONITOR.jpg


WOOOT!! Just got my Crossover monitor. Gonna have to wait till this evening to unbox it and hook it up. I don't see any outer damage through or anything, seems very well packaged. I will have pics - Anyone have any questions they want answered that I can get to tonight?

Only thing I won't really know how to do with these is overclock them, though I guess I can look up on OCN and try to figure it out.
 
Nice deal. I got the Crossover and it is decent. I do agree the quality control is not so great either as there is a slight color shift for me.

Comparing it to the other two IPS panels I have had, it isn't as good as the NEC 2690 or the Viewsonic 2655 or not as nice.

The Crossover, Catleap, etc.. all use the same LG panels but I believe they are just leftovers which were not good enough to be used by the LCD companies. That seems to be ok though since a lot of them look like they work perfectly fine except for maybe a minor flaws here and there.

Regardless of that, I'd say it's a good deal and very hard to find a large IPS for that cheap.
 
Alot of complaining about getting something with 95% of the quality for less then 50% of the price.

With as small as the pixels here are a dead pixel isnt going to be noticable for most people unless looking for them. Hell these start about 10 bucks more then my 28" Hanns-G was when it was new. It also came with 1 stuck pixel. A few miniutes of a color blast app & the pixel was unstuck & has been working fine now for 3+ years with 1.3 million pixels less then these IPS displays. I See it as a bargain to get the other 1.3 million pixels for 20 bucks more then my existing monitor, not to mention much sharper everything with less backlight bleed & better black levels..
 
Beast Mode said:
This seems like an incredible deal. S-IPS, 27", high res, low input lag, glossy (if that's your thing), etc. But the fact that these monitors don't have an OSD menu bothers me. People have reported that the gamma is off and they have a bit of a green tint, and I'm pretty ocd about correcting that sort of thing. You should not have to use an ICC profile or your drivers to correct a screen.
Click to expand...
I don't understand this. What consumer monitor lets you correct the colors properly through the OSD? Most monitors I've used will screw up some part of the grayscale if I mess with the RGB values, and most monitors don't even have a gamma setting, and the ones that do are usually not accurate anyway. I always have to use an ICC profile to correct the colors. The only exceptions are those high-end professional color-critical monitors that can be calibrated in the monitor itself, but those are expensive, and you still have to use an ICC profile to tell color-managed programs about the gamut of your monitor.



Seyumi said:
Don't buy into this monitors hype. Ever heard the term "too good to be true?" Well what do you expect when there's a Korean $250 knock-off of a $1000 version of the Apple Cinema Display or the $1000 Dell U2711? (It's only $370~$450 on Ebay to pay for shipping costs + markup)

The monitor is complete crap. It has "made in China" written all over it. I ended up getting the Catleap Q270 model which is pretty much identical to the Achieva Shimian. These are the issues I'm having:

-crappy cheap plastic to where pieces broke off during shipment
-wobbly stand and has an obvious lean to the right
-massive colorshift where the white turns to a white-ish yellow towards the bottom of the screen
-Unable to "overclock" past 65hz as all the new models no longer support this feature (probably for a good reason)

I didn't have these problems but these are also common problems you'll most likely have if you get one of these monitors

-dead pixels & dust behind the glass if you get the tempered glass model
-massive backlight bleeding all around the bezel of the screen
-faint horizontal scan lines

It's still a hell of a deal though being able to get these monitors for around $350-$450 on Ebay. You can literally have 3 of these in nvidia surround or amd eyefininty for the same price as one ACD or U2711. What you pay for is what you get though.
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I don't understand this either. The first two problems are specific to the catleap and don't affect the picture quality, while all the other problems also affect the Apple and iMac displays, so why should anyone pay a premium for the same problems?

The cheap plastic arch breaking off is specific to the catleap, and it serves absolutely no purpose anyway, so who cares if it breaks off? The monitor itself is solid, and that's all that really matters.

The stand is crap, but you can replace it. The stand on the Apple sucks too. It can only tilt. There's no height adjustment, no swivel, no rotation. At the price they charge, they can't even include a premium stand.

The color shift is not massive, and it affects any monitor using this panel.

The Apple can't do higher refresh rates either.

People have reported dust behind the glass on the Apple and iMac displays along with backlight bleeding and uniformity issues.

Most of the pictures I've seen of backlight bleeding have been greatly exaggerated. Most of it is IPS glow overexposed by the camera. Some units do have minor backlight bleeding, but that has also been reported with the Apple and iMac displays.

Nearly every H-IPS panel I've seen has the faint horizontal lines. I don't know how so many people don't notice them. It's not the cable, and it's not specific to any GPU or OS.

The only advantage with the Apple is you can return it. If that's worth an extra $600 to you, go for it.
 
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I got mine today. The stand does lean right but I am thinking about mounting it on the wall anyways in the near future. The colors are perfect, I have minimum backlight bleed and no dead pixels at all. GreenSum also shipped a converter plug with my monitor to change the end to U.S end and the powersupply does 110-240 volts. I didn't even have to change the power cable. The only thing I hate on it so far is the stand and that is about it.
 
Is tempered glass something you would want on a monitor?
I been checking ebay for this monitor some say it has tempered glass.
Is that a good or bad thing?.
 
its just cosmetic. the plane of glass stretch from edge to edge like the macs.

Anyone knows if there is a difference between quality dual link dvi cables from monoprice vs a 10 dollar cable from Frys?
I picked a cheap dual link cable up from frys and the package says it only supports 2000x1440 as opposed to 2560x1600, however it still works. (dream seller forgot to include me some dvi cables =/)
 
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ufot said:
its just cosmetic. the plane of glass stretch from edge to edge like the macs.

Anyone knows if there is a difference between quality dual link dvi cables from monoprice vs a 10 dollar cable from Frys?
I picked a cheap dual link cable up from frys and the package says it only supports 2000x1440 as opposed to 2560x1600, however it still works. (dream seller forgot to include me some dvi cables =/)
Click to expand...

I can verify that this cable from Amazon works fine at 2560x1440 for mine.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HGLFDI

10' long and very well made, and only $8 total if you have Prime, around $18 if you don't.
 
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