Samsung SA850 on PLS - the first review has been published (preproduction unit)

Add me to the list of people returning this due to backlight bleed. Watched an episode of Boardwalk Empire and the bleed in the lower right and upperleft of the screen was noticeable throughout all the darker scenes.

A shame really, because otherwise it is a very nice monitor.

Beginning to feel like Goldilocks in The Three Bears- this porridge was too sweet, etc. Tried the HP ZR2740w and returned that because text looked grainy on it, now returning the Samsung. Trying the Dell U2711 next.
 
Dell u2711 ag coating is the same as the HP, which you were told about multiple times.
 
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What we need is a backlight bleed mod for the samsung. Eventually someone will take it apart and find a fix for it. Might be similar to the Dell 2005FPW mod using black tape.
 
I randomly set the Brightness to 31 and contrast 95 (Samsungs usually can get away with maxed CR in the OSD w/o bleaching). Haven't calibrated it or measured anything yet so who knows what the actual brightness is (will update later with measurements). Monitor on the right is an Asus VG236H set to 120cdm/2

plsbleeding016.jpg


PLS
plsbleeding014.jpg
 
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Mid seventies is about as high as contrast goes on mine without bleaching the colors. It looks best around 74.
 
WickedWeasel said:
What we need is a backlight bleed mod for the samsung. Eventually someone will take it apart and find a fix for it. Might be similar to the Dell 2005FPW mod using black tape.
Click to expand...

Here's one: Take the panel and put it into a different assembly that's not as thin and not as flimsy. ;)

Lith1um said:
Mid seventies is about as high as contrast goes on mine without bleaching the colors. It looks best around 74.
Click to expand...

Mine is fine at default of 75 and as soon as it starts to go up I notice not only bleaching, but color temperature change of whites.

@NCX: What exposure/settings were these photos at? Never mind I found it. .25 second shutter length, f2.8 and ISO 200.
 
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I used my i1 Display Pro with the BasICColor 5 Beta for profiling.

B5calibrated.png


Color temperature was 6100k out of the box in the standard mode. Before correcting the temperature the black level was 0.13cdm/2 @120cdm/2. Looks like I got a winning unit.
 
Wouldn't necessarily say it's winning or losing.

Not very different from mine, but this was taken at 1 second exposure, F2.8 I believe.

img0074tl.jpg


Versus the Dell U2711 I had, which was much better:

img0636qe.jpg


Samsung still has a way to go IMHO. It's not even really a panel lottery, because they're all not very good in that regard. This was my original (returned to NCeyeX). I'll update with the replacement.
 
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peppergomez said:
Add me to the list of people returning this due to backlight bleed. Watched an episode of Boardwalk Empire and the bleed in the lower right and upperleft of the screen was noticeable throughout all the darker scenes.

A shame really, because otherwise it is a very nice monitor.

Beginning to feel like Goldilocks in The Three Bears- this porridge was too sweet, etc. Tried the HP ZR2740w and returned that because text looked grainy on it, now returning the Samsung. Trying the Dell U2711 next.
Click to expand...

Three words:

Apple Cinema Display 27"
 
Topaz said:
If the ZR2740w was already too grainy, you won't have any joy there, believe me.
Click to expand...



I Had to see for myself. But boy are you guys right. Unpacked it tonight and couldnt stand to look at it for more than 10 minutes. Viewing black text on a white background really brings out that grainy film on the anti glare coating. What a shame.

So...samsung is a gamble...i annot accept that backlight bleed. Delll and HP are out.
What does that leave in terms of 27" at 2560x1440? I am in the USA so that British brand is not really an option.


Ahh, post right above mine suggesting the 27" apple display...i am going for a a three monitor setup for either eyefinity or nvidia surround. Add to that i am vesa mounting them on a triple monitor mount arm that is part of an obutto gaming cockpit. Add to that the price of these displays...dont think they are suited to what i am trying to do and they will be mighty expensive. But it does raise the question:

What other monitors are glossy?
 
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peppergomez said:
.
Click to expand...

You have been told what is available and what not to buy numerous times. Re-read responses from [H] users who tried helping in some of the threads you participate in or the threads you made which asked the same questions.
 
peppergomez,
Another option, get the Samsung again, and try fixing the backlight bleed using SILICONE tape. It is very soft and is used to create air tight and water tight seals.
 
Interesting. I haven't seen discussion of thus fix on the forum here, but if i could greatly diminish or remove said bleed, i would be very happy with this monitor. I will resaerch this.

If it is the bezel that is causing the backlight bleed, might removing the bezel entirely fix the problem? I wonder if it might be pinching the screen, because when i pulled at it gently, the backligt bleed in the lower right subsided somewhat. That is something i was considering doing anyway once i have 3 monitors, so there are thinner bezels when gaming.

Thanks for the tip...have you tried this on the samsung or on another monitor?
 
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@10e

It appears the 850 drops frames when hooked up to my 360 (using a DVI-HDMI adapter+HDMI cable), did you notice this as well?
 
Backlight bleed mod
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1032268

Backlight bleed mod is one of the few things that we can do, and since the Samsung has that problem, it is worth considering. Everyone who has flexed the bezel seems to be able to affect the BLB. Silicone Tape might work. I am waiting for consistent good reports on the backlight bleed before I get one.
 
NCX said:
@10e

It appears the 850 drops frames when hooked up to my 360 (using a DVI-HDMI adapter+HDMI cable), did you notice this as well?
Click to expand...

No, but I tried it on the PS3. I'll re-try the replacement when I get it.

I don't see why it would, I'd theorize it buffers frames based on the 1.5 frame (or so) lag on it. Weird.
 
Received the replacement for the S27A850DS from NC"I"X just now. It was a new shipment, and it seems there is definitely improvement in terms of back-light bleed on this one. I like being wrong when I'm being negative :)

The last shot is the closest as I was running the original unit I had at 29 brightness based on the ICM profile I created where I keep note of this info and RGB levels for custom color.

All shots following are F3.2 and 1 second exposure from about 3.5 feet away and on-angle. Remember 1 second exposure is used to show the worst case scenario. Still not perfect but much better than my original IMHO.

100 brightness:

img0089rf.jpg


50 brightness:

img0090bl.jpg


30 brightness:

img0091kh.jpg
 
10e said:
Received the replacement for the S27A850DS from NC"I"X just now. It was a new shipment, and it seems there is definitely improvement in terms of back-light bleed on this one. I like being wrong when I'm being negative :)
Click to expand...

Looks quite good. Is this a keeper with no other issues?
 
10e said:
Received the replacement for the S27A850DS from NC"I"X just now. It was a new shipment, and it seems there is definitely improvement in terms of back-light bleed on this one. I like being wrong when I'm being negative.
Click to expand...

TodayIsYourLuckyDayCard.jpg
 
My calibrated Settings for 120cdm/2, 6500k and 2.40 gamma

Brightness 18
Contrast 80
Red 37 (Mine was 2 Red by default [6100k] turning it down fixed to color temp)
Green 48
Blue 50
Gamma Mode 1 (2.40 default gamma)

When using the xbox 360 make sure to set your reference levels to Intermediate to avoid black crush and wierd colors, also use the AV mode and screen fit to avoid over scan.

AV Mode and Screen fit
http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/imagehosting/3544e0bbd243f2f8.png

There are from my S27A950D review, the OSD is the same on the 850D.

I will take pictures of the response time in PixerPixAn later.
 
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Normal=slightly more blurring than Faster
850fastest003.jpg


Faster
850faster012.jpg


Fastest produces lots of overshoot/corona effect
850fastest018.jpg


There is some very minor overshoot/corona effect (light shield forming around fast moving objects or on objects during fast camera pans) in games with the Faster setting.

Input lag was instantly noticeable with desktop use compared to by VG236H which doesn't have any, but it's not enough to be a problem and is easy to get used to/forget about for general desktop/internet use.

I'm played some MW3 and didn't have any problems aiming despite being used to getting 90fps on my 120hz delay free Asus. Input lag is a problem in games with extra lag like Bulletstorm, it affected my aiming but it's tolerable. Scanning planets for Minerals in Mass Effect 2 was noticeably/annoyingly harder but general ME2 game play was fine.
 
Snowdog said:
Looks quite good. Is this a keeper with no other issues?
Click to expand...

I'd say yes. The 1 second exposure shots amplify defects, which are basically invisible to my eye. No dead pixels or dust behind the panel etc....

Originally the external power brick didn't make sense, but for failed replacing it might.

The Dell U2711 is still an overall superior "package" but the panel is a let-down in terms of high PPI and anti-glare. For 24" 1920x1200 monitors the heavier anti-glare doesn't make a difference to me, but at this dot pitch and resolution it does.

Bladestorm said:
Nevermind.

Why won't it display N C I X ?
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They're probably not a registered vendor or don't advertise with the [H].

Thanks for the picture. I'm printing it for my work cubicle to remind people how lucky they are that I don't physically injure them when they interrupt my work or [H] posts :D

NCX said:
My calibrated Settings for 120cdm/2, 6500k and 2.40 gamma

Brightness 18
Contrast 95
Red 37 (Mine was 2 Red by default [6100k] turning it down fixed to color temp)
Green 48
Blue 50
Gamma Mode 1 (2.40 default gamma)

When using the xbox 360 make sure to set your reference levels to Standard to avoid black crush and wierd colors, also use the AV mode and screen fit to avoid over scan.

AV Mode and Screen fit
http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/imagehosting/3544e0bbd243f2f8.png

There are from my S27A950D review, the OSD is the same on the 850D.

I will take pictures of the response time in PixerPixAn later.
Click to expand...

Strangely enough different than the S24A850DW though.

You have to cool off the color temperature when you turn up the contrast and it's too warm by default prior to contrast raises. Mine warms up further when the contrast hits the 80s. I notice my white becomes pink-ish then. Also the RGB controls are strange. Below 50 each acts to change color temperature, and above 50 they seems like color channel gain controls. Strange.

Edit: The contrast at higher than 80 fixed gamma close to 2.2 at the expense of any possibility of getting semi-accurate colors without profiling. I went back to 76.

The response time is typical 27" IPS panel response time, which is is much better than the older S-PVA panels, with exception of the Dell 2709W (which had more lag though).

The anti-glare is almost the same as what the Dell 2709W had too, which is different than Samsung 245T/275T

The slightly extended gamut is not a bother to me now next to my other NEC screens. It is still close enough not to look garish IMHO.
 
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I actually turned the contrast down to 80, not sure why I put 95.

I played Bulletstorm, when panning the camera L/R usng the Faster response time setting there was some overshoot, but it is very minor. I haven't gamed very much but I have a feeling using the Normal setting will be the best.
 
When using an HDMI cable+hdmi-dvi adapter I just get RGB fuzz when hooked up to my PS3. Don't have a display port cable to try display port-hdmi
 
NCX said:
I actually turned the contrast down to 80, not sure why I put 95.

I played Bulletstorm, when panning the camera L/R usng the Faster response time setting there was some overshoot, but it is very minor. I haven't gamed very much but I have a feeling using the Normal setting will be the best.
Click to expand...

I experienced some very unpleasant artifacts with some video content when set to "Fastest." "Faster" was significantly better, and "Normal" solved the problem completely.
 
NM156 said:
I experienced some very unpleasant artifacts with some video content when set to "Fastest." "Faster" was significantly better, and "Normal" solved the problem completely.
Click to expand...

"Faster" is a good balance for my purposes. The trail-edge reverse ghosting is light enough to be difficult to notice during gaming, and it reduces blurring enough for me.

The fact that they allow three levels is an over-looked, but important feature in my opinion.
 
Hi guys, I'm also interested in the 24inch version, haven't seen much coverage on those... I wonder if they have better light bleed, response time..?

The 27inch version is awesome (aside from backlight bleed), but it's expensive, and I wouldn't be able to run my games on such high resolution...
 
Rasta_Cook said:
Hi guys, I'm also interested in the 24inch version, haven't seen much coverage on those... I wonder if they have better light bleed, response time..?

The 27inch version is awesome (aside from backlight bleed), but it's expensive, and I wouldn't be able to run my games on such high resolution...
Click to expand...

The 27" seems to have a better record with BLB than the 24".

My S27A850D does not suffer from backlight bleed, whereas my wife's S24A850DW does have a small amount.
 
Hi guys,

I was wondering if it's possible to use the monitor's USB 3.0 ports to carry video and sound, like in C23A750 where one can use a USB cable instead of HDMI or WUSB?

And all this without compromising picture quality, input lag, etc.
 
Rasta_Cook said:
Hi guys, I'm also interested in the 24inch version, haven't seen much coverage on those... I wonder if they have better light bleed, response time..?

The 27inch version is awesome (aside from backlight bleed), but it's expensive, and I wouldn't be able to run my games on such high resolution...
Click to expand...

Generally the 24" will have more bleed problems than the 27". In addition the 27" will vary more from sample-to-sample. My original 27" SA850 was worse than this one for back-light bleed, and this replacement has actually improved from the day I picked it up. I'll post a new shot later tonight, but at this point, while viewed straight-on I am having a lot of trouble seeing the slight bleed at the top I used to see.


Onodri-m said:
Hi guys,

I was wondering if it's possible to use the monitor's USB 3.0 ports to carry video and sound, like in C23A750 where one can use a USB cable instead of HDMI or WUSB?

And all this without compromising picture quality, input lag, etc.
Click to expand...

Not to the monitor. The C23A750 is a different beast in that regard.

When it works that is :)
 
Anyone knows why the 24in model is more prone to backlight bleed ?

I would have thought that the smaller a panel is, the easier it is to manage the backlightbleed... idk...

Anyone seen any deals for black friday on these monitors ?

I need to replace my 2 current monitors which are very old... I use a dual monitor setup with a monitor arm, my main monitor is in landscape mode in the middle and the other monitor is on the side in portrait mode to display things like emails ( outlook ) and i leave a spot for my music apps etc..

I was thinking of getting the 24in SA850 (~500$) as my primary monitor and get a secondary S22A650D ( ~240$ ) with MVA panel ( supposedly).

Alternatively, i could go with 2 x S24A650D ( ~275$ each ) or 1 x S24A650D + 1 x s22A650D ...

Have you guys heard anything about the 650 series ? i dont see any reviews at all...
 
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