XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 vs H50 vs Custom Loop

I have 350$ worth of watercoolng stuff on my old e6600 / 7950gt build (mcp355,swiftech res, black ice2 240mm radiator, aquaxtreme mp02, mcrw80, but the stuff s old and the lines are cloudly when its on (clear blue when its off white foamy on) i was wondering if i bought say

XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 = 125$ vs
new tubing, cpu and gpu blocks = ?? use my res,radator,fans,pump
upgrade the h50 to an h100

this is all in a Corsair 400R and a i7-2600k that is 5fghz+ stable but these high temps with my h50 wont let me leave it their...

Easiest option would be to get the H100, unless you want to get your GPU into the loop.

Since you already have all those parts, don't go with the RS240 kit.

New tubing costs about $10-20, a good budget CPU block costs about $50. A fullcover GPU block costs about $100, while a universal one costs about $50.

well the problem is im scared that my radiator might be contaminated? i built the system years ago heres a picture (when core2duos first released and a 7950gt was the best uc ould get)



it looks fine their but when i did this was fmy first loop and i didnt put a t line or drain line so it never had the water changed now when its powered on theirs a white foam throghout the lines till its powered off then its clear again not sure if its air (doubt it) or what will try to get a picture.. but i didnt want to spend the money on a cpu/gpu block and new tubing to use my radiator,pump,res if they are dirty inside forgot how i even risned out the radiator when i first bought it vinegar and somthing else!

Flush it out with hot distilled water and vinegar. Actually, everything in your old setup can be cleaned in this manner.

ok

If the temps are fine then i wouldn't be too worried
Have you checked your loop for any leaks?? Possibly sucking air from somewhere
What order is everything in and locations actually...

IMO just stick with all the same parts but get a T link, put some new distilled water in it and maybe upgrade the pump to the MCP655 for possible temp drop

If you want to go to a little more extreme. Mod the H50 with a 240 rad and add a res for shits and giggles....

^^ lol well heres the thing look at the case... with one fan its almost close to the ram slots with a radiator and one fan it might hit and either way id want push pull is their any reason behind nto mounting the rad or fan outside of the case aside from looks? heres my new rig!



pretty sure even if i bought the h100 and its SUPER SLIM radiator that it wouldnt fit...

Could fit the new Ex240 ontop...

If you did get the H100 you could run slim fans inside the case and run normal fans on top outside of the case. There is no problem in terms of that, if you are willing to get the dremel out in a worst case scenario...

ive still cant figure out what to do... I am realizingi it doesnt matter if my chip can run at 6ghz if its gonna need 1.6volts to get their or 5ghz @ 1.5volts that will surely lead to it failing before my 22nm ivy bridge upgrade and i cant have that so after testing im at 4.7ghz with 1.375volts if i put it to 4.8 or 4.9 it requires 1.43/1.48 anything about that is suicide (temps are in the 90s) so if I was to get a single stage crackhead cooler and freeze all my components it wouldnt matter because I am still throwing way to many volts into it right? or does degradation only occur because of temperatures not voltages????

I may consider just replacing all of my fans to really high cfm ones even if they are loud i dont care if the temps will go down im just afraidi that if i spend 50$ on 4 fans (2 for radiator 2 for top exhaust) that my temps will stay the same or will the fans affect my temps at all??

At 88 CFM, the Yate Loon D12SH-12 offers much more airflow then its fellow, low-speed counterpart (D12SL-12, 47CFM). I have the 70 CFM version D12SM-12 would having an extra 18 or XXX cfm PER fan give 5-10c differences?

and id like to add the case has 120/140mm mounts so if I could run two 140mm on the top of the case screwed into a dual res on the bottom and one of those super slim schye 120s on the bottom of the rad

Model: SY1225SL12SH (1900 rpm version)
Fan Size: 120mm x 120mm x 25mm
Speed: 1900 RPM
Airflow: 110.31 CFM

http://www.petrastechshop.com/12scsysstcaf4.html

is the fan i was looking at sinec thjey are 110cfm the most ive seen so far newegg highest was like 80 with a 140mm fan lol.. so pretending i had two of those 110cfm (opposed to my 70 each =140) having 220 cfm > 140cfm would that do anythign for my temps?

First: Can you actually post with proper grammar? I don't mean like with caps and everything, but the way everything just runs together makes it very hard and annoying to read.

Degradation rate increases because of both high temps and high voltages. If you're aiming for high overclocks, you can mitigate one but not the other.

Put up the cash and get Gentle Typhoons. AP-15 models, it'll perform a lot better than those Slipstreams on radiators.

If you switch out to AP-15's, you'll probably see 5 C improvement.

ok so changing fans i will see some Celcius degree differences but why that fan?

D1225C12B5AP-15 1,850 rpm 28 dBA 57.68062 CFM 0.083 are the specs and the SS has 110cfm isnt more better or not in this case?

Static pressure matters more than CFM

Slipstreams sacrifice static pressure for higher CFM. You need high static pressure to push air through radiators. Gentle Typhoons have high static pressure.

If it were me, I would buy new tubing, take everything apart and clean all the fittings. Put it back together outside of the build and thoroughly clean it out with vinegar/similar solution. Drain, distilled water, test for leaks, then you should be good.