Those of you who have built a desk...

Vicinity

2[H]4U
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Jan 30, 2009
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Would two pieces of 3/4 inch hardwood (oak/birch) liquid nail's'd together need any kind of bracing for a 7 foot span?

I think this is the right area to ask...
 
Bracing or center supports would help.
you could always make a frame for it but it makes it really heavy.
DSCF8393.jpg

This is the back side of my first desk but it was to big and heavy so I had to down scale after I moved, glad I did.
This is my current desk, 30"x80" with center supports in the back.
dscf0014.jpg

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I really depends on how big your going. I braced my first desk because I went the plywood route, the second time around i just used the legs as supports in the back and I havent had any problems, it supports everything I have on there and that includes me when I need to use it as a stool.
 
I built my desk out of a solid core door, 24" x 80", I simply reused the metal sawhorse style legs from my old desk, never felt the need to provide any extra support for the center.
 
You're missing way too much information to provide a qualified answer. Without knowing how much weight you're trying to support, the thickness of the table top, or how much deflection (sag) is acceptable, it's impossible to tell.

I'm guessing you're just looking for a rough answer though so... no. It won't. Go by you're local home store and grab a 6' or 8' 2x4. Set it on something so that it's supported on the ends but not in the middle. Put something that weighs ~20 pounds in the middle to simulate a monitor. See how much is flexes? Thats called deflection. If you can see it flex, it's a good indication that it's not supported enough. You can see if they have 2x2 hardwood pieces to do the same test with. A hardwood like maple or oak would provide a a lit more strength but I'd still guess it isn't enough.

You'll likely need to build some kind of structural framework like TeeJay88 did.
 
You're missing way too much information to provide a qualified answer. Without knowing how much weight you're trying to support, the thickness of the table top, or how much deflection (sag) is acceptable, it's impossible to tell.

I'm guessing you're just looking for a rough answer though so... no. It won't. Go by you're local home store and grab a 6' or 8' 2x4. Set it on something so that it's supported on the ends but not in the middle. Put something that weighs ~20 pounds in the middle to simulate a monitor. See how much is flexes? Thats called deflection. If you can see it flex, it's a good indication that it's not supported enough. You can see if they have 2x2 hardwood pieces to do the same test with. A hardwood like maple or oak would provide a a lit more strength but I'd still guess it isn't enough.

You'll likely need to build some kind of structural framework like TeeJay88 did.

Yeah this is true, Im not sure of the rigidity of the wood you will buy but a little support will never hurt anything just a 2x6 under the backside would work well.
 
You're missing way too much information to provide a qualified answer. Without knowing how much weight you're trying to support, the thickness of the table top, or how much deflection (sag) is acceptable, it's impossible to tell.

I'm guessing you're just looking for a rough answer though so... no. It won't. Go by you're local home store and grab a 6' or 8' 2x4. Set it on something so that it's supported on the ends but not in the middle. Put something that weighs ~20 pounds in the middle to simulate a monitor. See how much is flexes? Thats called deflection. If you can see it flex, it's a good indication that it's not supported enough. You can see if they have 2x2 hardwood pieces to do the same test with. A hardwood like maple or oak would provide a a lit more strength but I'd still guess it isn't enough.

You'll likely need to build some kind of structural framework like TeeJay88 did.

Lol, I understand what flex is. I'm going to put a normal amount of weight for a computer desk on it (max of 3 monitors with arms at maybe 10-15 lbs each) and a 360.

I'm just assuming that 1.5 inches of oak would be enough for it not to flex over that relatively short span.

But, I guess I could go with thinner hardwood (quarter inch) and build a 2x4 frame.

I'd go with a door core, but Lowes only has the hollow cores, and I feel like I could snap that bad boy in half with my mind.
 
Would the 2x6 need to be dead center length-wise? Or could it be toward the rear of the desk?

*Desk is length-wise against a wall, 2x6 is closer to the wall than user of the desk*
 
I've built a few desks in my day and I would say that over 4 feet you will want to brace it somehow. You do have several options of doing so, not just in adding legs to the back. Why don't you sketch up your final design so we can check it out? Also, will need to get exact dimensions of your wood (length x width x thick) to get a feel for it, ensure you get this by measuring the wood and not just by going with the mill's specs as sometimes it's different than what you actually get.

Once we get an idea of what you want your top & legs to look like, it will be easier to give you advice on how to best support it. I'll give you two examples of desks that I've built:

1) Plywood Desk - Top measured 2 feet wide by 4 feet long and was 2 x layers of 3/4 inch plywood. I used two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood for legs, and a piece of 3/4 inch plywood as a back panel attached to the legs and the top. It ended up pretty much like a box that was open on 2 sides (floor and front). Initially I only had 1 x layer of 3/4 inch plywood as a top but even with the back supported, the center of the front still sagged a little with my monitor on it (it was a 19" CRT montior).

*if I can dig up a pic after work I'll throw it up*


2) Solid pine desk - Top measured 2 feet wide by 4 feet long and was 1.5 inches thick (via tape measure, not manufacturer). I made legs for it out of 2 x 3 stud lumber, so it's a lot more open than the other desk. The top is supported at the 4 corners and that's it. I have my 27" LCD and a bunch of other crap on it, but it does not sag.

deskproj.jpg


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In the second pic of the second desk, you can see the one bar I have on the back side. If I were concerned about sag, I would have added another bar at the top of the legs which would support the bottom of the desktop and prevent the BACK of the desk from sagging, no guarantees that the front wouldn't sag a little.

I don't have that problem with mine but you're talking about a span that's almost twice as long. If I were you I would plan it out carefully and do it right the first time. It actually kinda sucks when you put a lot of effort into something and then it goes limp on you when you need it to perform.
 
This is literally (if I built it, it would look EXACTLY like it) this desk. I found the design online and fell in love with it. It'll have the same wood top and square tube steel legs (2x2 at 28 inches tall).

400.jpg


That desk is 80~x30. Mine will be 60-72x24.
 
^ The way that desk is set up makes it so that the weight is close to the legs and makes it easier to bear the weight.

And the 2x6 can be more to the back.
 
This is literally (if I built it, it would look EXACTLY like it) this desk. I found the design online and fell in love with it. It'll have the same wood top and square tube steel legs (2x2 at 28 inches tall).

400.jpg


That desk is 80~x30. Mine will be 60-72x24.

That's a nice looking table. Two pieces of high quality plywood laminated together will be plenty strong to use as a desk. The problem is that hardwood veneer plywood is usually not very strong as it often has a low ply count and voids, especially the stuff from the home centers.

Don't use a 2x6 or 2x4 as a stiffener. You may one day wish to use the table somewhere other than against a wall and it would look silly. It would also be a knee banger if it was anywhere but along the back edge. Not good.

There are a few different ways I would go about building a table such as pictured.

One way would be to use two pieces of flat 9 ply cabinet grade plywood laminated together. Then veneer it with my material of choice; hardwood, formica, metal, or whatever you like. Band it with hardwood to dress up the edges and bolt on some legs. Not the best method as almost no plywood is perfectly flat and even if it is flat when you buy it it may not stay that way.

The second and preferred way, since you are working with steel tube for the legs anyway, would be to assemble a steel frame from 1x1 tube that serves as the structure and attachment points for the legs. Then construct a single layer top with a thickened edge that drops over the steel frame. The frame will keep a single layer top nice and flat. I would guess that this is how the pictured table is constructed.

Another way, if the quality of materials available is limited, is to incorporate 1x1 steel tube into a two layer laminated plywood or MDF top. This is simple to do by routing out a 1/2" deep by 1" wide groove into the mating faces of each of the two pieces of plywood. Drop the steel into place as you are gluing up and apply a hardwood edge band to hide everything.

It is all quite a bit of work but nothing too difficult. The decision to make is if you want a strong, good looking table that will last several lifetimes or just something disposable to get you by for a while. There are definitely advantages to either choice.
 
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That's a nice looking table. Two pieces of high quality plywood laminated together will be plenty strong to use as a desk. The problem is that hardwood veneer plywood is usually not very strong as it often has a low ply count and voids, especially the stuff from the home centers.

Don't use a 2x6 or 2x4 as a stiffener. You may one day wish to use the table somewhere other than against a wall and it would look silly. It would also be a knee banger if it was anywhere but along the back edge. Not good.

There are a few different ways I would go about building a table such as pictured.

One way would be to use two pieces of flat 9 ply cabinet grade plywood laminated together. Then veneer it with my material of choice; hardwood, formica, metal, or whatever you like. Band it with hardwood to dress up the edges and bolt on some legs. Not the best method as almost no plywood is perfectly flat and even if it is flat when you buy it it may not stay that way.

The second and preferred way, since you are working with steel tube for the legs anyway, would be to assemble a steel frame from 1x1 tube that serves as the structure and attachment points for the legs. Then construct a single layer top with a thickened edge that drops over the steel frame. The frame will keep a single layer top nice and flat. I would guess that this is how the pictured table is constructed.

Another way, if the quality of materials available is limited, is to incorporate 1x1 steel tube into a two layer laminated plywood or MDF top. This is simple to do by routing out a 1/2" deep by 1" wide groove into the mating faces of each of the two pieces of plywood. Drop the steel into place as you are gluing up and apply a hardwood edge band to hide everything.

It is all quite a bit of work but nothing too difficult. The decision to make is if you want a strong, good looking table that will last several lifetimes or just something disposable to get you by for a while. There are definitely advantages to either choice.

I said to lay the 2x6 flat... Not silly at all.
 
My desk was custom made about 15 years ago and is 7' wide and is made from 3/4" wood.
It does have brace on the back but I think that is mainly to keep the legs straight so the desk won't wobble left and right.

This is an old pic from 2006,
workstation.jpg
 
I said to lay the 2x6 flat... Not silly at all.

I wasn't really addressing your post but have a look at any table or desk such as the one depicted in the post I quoted and tell me if there is a piece of framing lumber screwed to the bottom.
 
I wasn't really addressing your post but have a look at any table or desk such as the one depicted in the post I quoted and tell me if there is a piece of framing lumber screwed to the bottom.

There could be, You would never see it from that angle because it will extend 2 inches below the bottom, Look at teejays pictures.
 
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