Polk PSW505 subwoofer $200 shipped newegg+amazon

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0055

Limp Gawd
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I love my 505, wouldn't trade it. Dang thing just loves to shake the house, even turned down to reasonable levels. At $200, it's a steal.
 
dang.... tempted. always on the hunt for a better sub. :p
 
So tempting. I have been contemplating a new home theater setup and this looks like a pretty solid mid-level sub.
 
I heard both OP, BIC F12 is a much better low end subwoofer. For the price nothing beats it
 
For sake of comparison:

Peak power: 475W (BIC) vs. 460W (Polk)... however peak means crap ;)
RMS power: 150W (BIC) vs. 300W (Polk)

Low Freq. cutoff: 25Hz (BIC) vs. 23Hz (Polk)...sure it's only 2Hz, but it's still lower.
Hi Freq. cutoff: 200Hz (BIC) vs. 160Hz (Polk)... your preference. I have full range surround speakers, so I prefer to let them handle everything above 150Hz anyway.

BIC F12 appears to be a tiny bit smaller. BIC is about $15 cheaper on Amazon.

I'm thinking of biting on the Polk, and return the Cambridge Soundworks 10" that I've been borrowing from my friend for the past year, lol.
 
Adam.C said:
False. Size of driver does not mean better. And from my hearing the BIC F12 is better than the Polk. But that Polk compares good to the BIC F12.
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Actually when we are talking about subwoofers is makes all the difference in the world if you really like good bass.
 
solaris54 said:
Actually when we are talking about subwoofers is makes all the difference in the world if you really like good bass.
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If that's the case, go get yourself an 18" Realistic driver from Radio Shack...

When talking about subs, cone area isn't the only factor... you must also think about sensitivity of the sub, the amount of area the enclosure is, how low the sub can play, what the enclosure is tuned at (if ported), how much power and what kind of power it's receiving, where it's placed in your room, etc...

I've heard a pair of 8" Pioneer subs in a 7th order bandpass box sound like a pair of 15's, but it's the size of the speaker, right?

Personally, I would rather have an 8" sub with clean power that plays accurate over a 15" sub with dirty power...

LOL...
 
solaris54 said:
Actually when we are talking about subwoofers is makes all the difference in the world if you really like good bass.
Click to expand...

Its true that driver size makes all the difference when it comes to subs, however, it would be incorrect to state that larger is better.

Larger drivers push more air, and can hit lower, however they generally have a hard time keeping up with fast bass lines. Smaller subs are quicker and typically not as 'boomy'

Usually 6"-10" subs are better for music because they are quicker, and 12"-18"+ subs are better for home theater as they reach a little deeper for the big explosions.

On topic though - I have heard nothing but amazing things about the PSW505. I had a very hard time not buying one quite a few different times from newegg at $250.
 
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Smoove910 said:
If that's the case, go get yourself an 18" Realistic driver from Radio Shack...

When talking about subs, cone area isn't the only factor... you must also think about sensitivity of the sub, the amount of area the enclosure is, how low the sub can play, what the enclosure is tuned at (if ported), how much power and what kind of power it's receiving, where it's placed in your room, etc...

I've heard a pair of 8" Pioneer subs in a 7th order bandpass box sound like a pair of 15's, but it's the size of the speaker, right?

Personally, I would rather have an 8" sub with clean power that plays accurate over a 15" sub with dirty power...

LOL...
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Good point, I didn't even take into account all the other factors in a sub like you mentioned. I was thinking more of an "All other things equal, with driver size being the variable" situation
 
Smoove910 said:
If that's the case, go get yourself an 18" Realistic driver from Radio Shack...

When talking about subs, cone area isn't the only factor... you must also think about sensitivity of the sub, the amount of area the enclosure is, how low the sub can play, what the enclosure is tuned at (if ported), how much power and what kind of power it's receiving, where it's placed in your room, etc...

I've heard a pair of 8" Pioneer subs in a 7th order bandpass box sound like a pair of 15's, but it's the size of the speaker, right?

Personally, I would rather have an 8" sub with clean power that plays accurate over a 15" sub with dirty power...

LOL...
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I'd rather have a 15" with dirty power:eek: Anyway with passive subwoofers you are supplying the amplifier anyway.
 
MrGlobe, you're completely false about smaller drivers being 'faster' than larger ones
i really wish you take the time to investigate the claims you make before pushing them as fact.
 
i have a polk psw550 mint for sale (never use it) if anyone may be interested
not sure what the going price is
 
Meh, polk's don't really impress me. However, not much compares to my SVS PB12-NSD :)
 
As for driver size... some of the new 8" 1000w subs seem to be the choice of enthusiasts these days... while I don't doubt that smaller very high powered subs can be great, there's something special about a good 15 or 18 with the right placement and power behind it... Anyways, I am curious though about these smaller footprint high power subs and I was eye balling the energy esw-m6 for a while... Ive been through a few 10s and am now using my old definitive pf1500tl but it still doesn't sound right to me... hrm.... might just bite on this polk and sell off a few other subs...
 
revenant said:
As for driver size... some of the new 8" 1000w subs seem to be the choice of enthusiasts these days... while I don't doubt that smaller very high powered subs can be great, there's something special about a good 15 or 18 with the right placement and power behind it... Anyways, I am curious though about these smaller footprint high power subs and I was eye balling the energy esw-m6 for a while... Ive been through a few 10s and am now using my old definitive pf1500tl but it still doesn't sound right to me... hrm.... might just bite on this polk and sell off a few other subs...
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You would be better off getting a proven sub from a proven brand. I would recommend HSU or SVS subwoofers. Cheers!
 
SYN ACK said:
MrGlobe, you're completely false about smaller drivers being 'faster' than larger ones
i really wish you take the time to investigate the claims you make before pushing them as fact.
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I could easily be wrong, would you mind providing a little more info though? Simply telling me I'm wrong doesn't help much. Also, you act like I just made up this line of thinking when for years there have been debates across tons of audio forums as to whether 2 channel setups should utilize smaller subs while HT setups should use larger ones or not.

Furthermore, I did state "All other things equal" - So lets assume there is a subwoofer with a 6" driver and one with an 18" driver but everything else is the same.
 
runnin17 said:
You would be better off getting a proven sub from a proven brand. I would recommend HSU or SVS subwoofers. Cheers!
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That's probably a good idea... go for a sub made by an mfg that specializes in subs... what about Epik??
 
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The bigger the sub the deeper and louder its gonna be but also the bigger the sub the less crisp and clean it sounds and less precise. It all depends on what you want.
 
Haha, I think I am one of the many here who is really contemplating buying a sub like this. But then the forumz go crazy with "this is better than that" back and forth and I can't click the buy button. I would assume a sub is a very integral part of a home theater system but really, truly, if I pair this up with middle of the road hardware to get good sound (I didn't say great), wouldn't this be a good buy?
 
the sub linked (PSW505) is a killer sub, and it's a great price... I've been eyeballing it for well over a year to compliment my Monitor 60's, but am trying to save my pennies for a Pentax K5...
 
MrGlobe said:
Furthermore, I did state "All other things equal" - So lets assume there is a subwoofer with a 6" driver and one with an 18" driver but everything else is the same.
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With all this talk about subs & HT, surprised no one has brought up the Infinite Baffle systems :)

The polk sub here looks fine, tho I should pass. Current HT subs are already over-matched for the rest of the 7.1 setup, & dialed way down... & a couple more drivers sitting dormant that still need a box built for them ;)
 
LOL, wow. As a retired custom auto-sound designer, here's my $.02 if anyone cares.

1) Smaller subs have less mass than larger subs... obviously. They can respond quicker with lower power. But large subs can respond just as fast, if given the PROPER amount of power. Bigger = More Mass = Higher power requirement. Simple.

2) In a simple "ported" enclosure, such as the Polk and BIC mentioned, size DOES matter. Period.
In a simple "sealed" enclosure, size STILL matters... AND the woofers (regardless of size) will have quicker response and crisper detail, but at the cost of sound volume (loudness).
Smaller enclosure volume will give higher detail and higher roll-off frequencies. Larger enclosure volume will lower the bass response, but will sound "muddier".
So all factors should be weighed, to attain the best choice for your listening preference.

3) You cant compare a 7th Order Bandpass to a ported enclosure and say size doesn't matter. That's comparing apples to oranges. Put that 12" sub into a 7th order bandpass, and watch that 8" cower in the corner. ;-)

BTW, ordered my Polk Monday evening and just got it in my hands a minute ago.
Cant wait to get home and play!! :D
THANKS OP!
 
DrStrangeBrew said:
...Current HT subs are already over-matched for the rest of the 7.1 setup, & dialed way down...
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I hear ya. I have two Bose AcoustiMass systems, PLUS a Cambridge Soundworks BassCube 10... so 3 subs total.
(yeah dealing with cancellation was a nightmare!)

I have to turn off the cube for movies. It's just too much. Drowns out the dialogue, and muddies the sound effects.

I use the cube strictly for music. The added low end punch rivals that of a well funded nightclub.
I love that "knock the breath out of you" kick in the chest feeling. It makes a party really hop.
Cannot wait to feel the difference from that 75W 10", to this 300W Polk 12" :D

YEE HAWWWW !!
 
This can easily be solved with testing say, a 10" driver and a 18" driver with the center of the VC's on the same plane.

I can assure you that the impulse arrival time will be the same. Thus negating one driver being slower than the other.
 
wjogert said:
Smaller subs have less mass than larger subs... obviously. They can respond quicker with lower power. But large subs can respond just as fast, if given the PROPER amount of power.
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That's a better way to say what I was trying to. Either way, blaze's article made me think I'm completely wrong and you're .02 makes me think I'm a little right.

Blaze- in your scenario with the 10" & 18" - if power, enclosure, etc are all equal isn't there going to be a difference between the two speakers?
 
MrGlobe said:
That's a better way to say what I was trying to. Either way, blaze's article made me think I'm completely wrong and you're .02 makes me think I'm a little right.

Blaze- in your scenario with the 10" & 18" - if power, enclosure, etc are all equal isn't there going to be a difference between the two speakers?
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Its unanimously agreed by everyone who's worth their salt in the subwoofer world that size has nothing to do with "quickness"

ask danley labs, ask mark seaton, ask kyle lee of TC sounds, ask kevin haskins of exodus audio (seriously feel free to shoot them an email, or just simply post the question on the subwoofer or DIY forums of AVS).

and if im getting this right youre saying if i had an 20" cubed enclosure with an 18" in it, and an identical enclosure with a 12" in it, and both had them being fed lets say 500 watts rms that the 12" would sound "quicker"? Nopers..
 
A friend of mine just ordered this. I'm exited to go and hear it. About 2 years ago, I was deciding between the dual 10" polk sub or this one. I ended up buying the 10" for about ~$230 on ebay slightly used, because this 12" model was significantly more expensive at the time. This is a great buy. My 10" fills a large open floorplan family room/kitchen area. From what I remember, the 12" was supposedly even better, with less distortion too. I'd suggest this to anyone. It's worth stretching the budget a bit too.

-darkmatter08
 
0055 said:
Its unanimously agreed by everyone who's worth their salt in the subwoofer world that size has nothing to do with "quickness"
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OK, so they unanimously agree that Newtons Second Law is incorrect??
(acceleration = force / mass)
Sorry guys, but simple physics dictate that if the power is the same and the mass is greater, then the acceleration is lower. ;-)

0055 said:
and if im getting this right youre saying if i had an 20" cubed enclosure with an 18" in it, and an identical enclosure with a 12" in it, and both had them being fed lets say 500 watts rms that the 12" would sound "quicker"? Nopers..
Click to expand...
Nope, exactly opposite. Re-read my $.02. Bigger enclosure volume is "muddier", aka "sloppier", aka "boomy". ;-) (in this case although the volume is not changed, it is technically "bigger", as it is relative to cone area... because you changed another variable in changing the speaker size)

This discussion really needs a new thread.
 
wjogert said:
OK, so they unanimously agree that Newtons Second Law is incorrect??
(acceleration = force / mass)
Sorry guys, but simple physics dictate that if the power is the same and the mass is greater, then the acceleration is lower. ;-)


Nope, exactly opposite. Re-read my $.02. Bigger enclosure volume is "muddier", aka "sloppier", aka "boomy". ;-) (in this case although the volume is not changed, it is technically "bigger", as it is relative to cone area... because you changed another variable in changing the speaker size)

This discussion really needs a new thread.
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well youre not talking about acceleration though... youre saying that a sub "sounds quicker." I guess first you have to define what you mean by quickness.

Kyle lee sums it up pretty well (this guy is the owner of TC sounds. he knows more about subs than any of us will in our lifetimes)

"The speed of the woofer is a function of power and frequency too, not just moving mass.

Speed does not effect distortion or accuracy, but rather SPL. All things being equal (including cone size), a faster driver is simply making more SPL. Non-linear movement affects distortion and accuracy but is independent of cone size. The reason 18's can make more SPL than 12's and not move as fast (far) is because they push a large wave. The advantage that 18's have is they don't have to move as far and therefor reduce the non-liner effects at the same SPL level. 18's, for example, almost always make much less distortion (and/or more bass) than 12's for that reason."

People get confused and think smaller driver = high freq (hertz) = more cycles = moving faster. Problem is youre talking about subwoofers and applying the same logic that you apply to tweeters to subwoofers doesnt work
 
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MrGlobe said:
Blaze- in your scenario with the 10" & 18" - if power, enclosure, etc are all equal isn't there going to be a difference between the two speakers?
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What happens if the cone of the 10 and 18 weigh the same? Does the 18 now produce this new found "faster bass"?
 
Sheesh alot of pointless arguing over low budget subwoofers. I think we can all agree that when you buy one of these you will very soon find yourself wanting moar powah.
 
Definitely needs a new thread... but this deal is pretty hot and its a great sub so im gonna consider this a bump.



But I'm not mature enough to drop it...

Blazemore said:
What happens if the cone of the 10 and 18 weigh the same? Does the 18 now produce this new found "faster bass"?
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It's not "faster bass" - A smaller woofer can more easily hit notes in quicker succession with less power. The bigger woofer requires comparitively more power to hit a note, return to 0, and then hit the next note as fast as the smaller woofer. 'Smaller' could mean the woofer is lighter or that it has a smaller surface area.

However I am not an expert, and as I said, the artice you linked to earlier did make a lot of sense

EDIT: I am sure that 90% of the terms I have used are technically "incorrect", so I hope everyone will be able to understand what I mean
 
no, it doesnt need a new thread
there's been countless commentary on avsforums about this because of people like you
and people who design these products always have to chime in and waste their time about this silly nonsense.

go start talking this nonsense to strangers until you finally run into someone who knows what they're talking about
 
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