LG L246W

Majed, I got a reply back from Entech. I tried what they said and the 63 luminance setting did save. However, as soon as I reboot, the setting goes back to 64. Can you try what they said (see below) and let me know if it works for you?

"After changing the settings to what you want, access the softOSD command processor (F10) and type in "SaveCurrentSettings", and then exit without restoring your original settings. If that doesn't work, the firmware is at fault - it either cannot save to or does not restore from NVRAM."
 
Majed, I got a reply back from Entech. I tried what they said and the 63 luminance setting did save. However, as soon as I reboot, the setting goes back to 64. Can you try what they said (see below) and let me know if it works for you?

"After changing the settings to what you want, access the softOSD command processor (F10) and type in "SaveCurrentSettings", and then exit without restoring your original settings. If that doesn't work, the firmware is at fault - it either cannot save to or does not restore from NVRAM."

Doesn't work.

after exit without restoring, just turning the LCD off,,then On..i can see the old setting.
just a question.Where will save the setting? to the Video Card?
 
I have an LG L245WP with a FX5200 video card and using 169.21 drivers. With VGA cable I can get 1920x1200 but not with DVI/HDMI cable.The graphic card responds as if a TV is connected and shows max.resolution 1920x1080 while the monitor does not recognize that it is connected to a PC.
I tried the solution suggested by bryanb and added OverrideEDIDFlags0 in nv4_disp.inf. I checked that the registry was updated with these values. However, although 1920x1200 is selectable by nvidia control panel, the screen appears truncated at the right part.Moving the mouse to the right, the screen scrolls to reveal the hidden part. When I press OK/AUTO it shows "HDMI 1600x1200/60Hz".

Any ideas/suggestions are welcome, thanks

Hey, this happened to me too.
I am using the analog (VGA). What I did was just unplug all the DVI/HDMI stuff. And then restarted my computer and the extra area on the right disappeared.

However I do still see in the monitor's Menu the 1600x1200/60Hz even though my computer's resolution is 1900x1200. See attached.

Humm I just opened Photoshop to crop the picture and it says that my" monitor profile appears to be defective" Is this part of my problem?

img0215my2.jpg
 
Be carefull trying to send your product in to LG, they are trying to replace mine with a w2452-tf. Its their new monitor BUT its an TN. They told me its better, blah blah blah, and that its gotten GREAT REVIEWS, saying its the best monitor from LG blah blah blah. They dont seem to have any more L246w. It sucks cause I have 2 dead pixels on mine. :mad::mad: Im going to return it, I dont know what other monitor like this to get now :(
 
Overriding EDID doesn't do any good.. we don't want to ignore EDID, we want to update internal settings in the EEPROM.

SoftMCCS can only update the main block, this doesn't help either.

The message that the EEPROM is write protected is very bad news. I think to remove the write protection the chip has to be soldered out and reprogrammed through an I2C adapter.
 
SoftMCCS can only update the main block, this doesn't help either.
yes.
that's what i discovered today.

The message that the EEPROM is write protected is very bad news. I think to remove the write protection the chip has to be soldered out and reprogrammed through an I2C adapter.

sadly,it seems to be the only way!
but How?
 
Doesn't work.

after exit without restoring, just turning the LCD off,,then On..i can see the old setting.
just a question.Where will save the setting? to the Video Card?

I'm not sure where it saves it. Interesting though, I changed the monitor's OSD to User instead of sRGB. Then I opened up softMCCS and changed luminance, then typed in SaveCurrentSettings, rebooted and it kept the settings.

So, it seems if the monitor is in sRGB mode, it won't save settings in softMCCS, but it will if you use User mode.
 
Ok, so I'm getting the L246WH-BN tomorrow, and it's my first LCD ever so i'm a bit lost here. Now what I've gathered from this thread, is that I should plug it using the DVI/HMDI cable, then set the monitor to sRGB mode somewhere from the menu and then 1:1 as well? Or was it that I should do something from the nvidia control panel with the scaling and the monitor set to some other than 1:1? I'm not too familiar with the terminology so bear with me. And do I have to mess in the nvidia registry or something?

The sRGB means that I can set the colors and such from the nvidia control panel, the 1:1 means that the monitor will use the native resolution and although the cable has HDMI, it doesn't carry audio because the other end would be in a DVI plug at the GPU. Is this all correct so far?

And when I finally somehow get the drivers installed and a picture to the monitor, I should head out to the http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test and do every test in there and adjust the colors and brightness. Any good way of testing the light bleeding or something? And what would be the first step to take as soon as I turn the monitor on? Will it ask me something or the drivers and such?

And is there a reason for me to go into the service menu and check the version? Or try to get the 64 number to 63 from the SoftMCCS? If the screen seems blue I should? I was kind of lost right there. Also the EEPROM and EDID and those are a mystery to me.

So yeah, basically a hand-in-hand tour or some sort of guide for dummies is what I'd need :D
 
Ok, so I'm getting the L246WH-BN tomorrow, and it's my first LCD ever so i'm a bit lost here.

WH model is completely different display from WP models. It uses cheap TN panel, which in many ways is inferior to P-MVA panel. Most reviews, tips and tweaks mentioned in this thread won't apply at all to it either. In that regards your message and parts of my reply are rather off topic content in this thread.

The sRGB means that I can set the colors and such from the nvidia control panel,

Not quite. SRGB is just one of the displays preset profiles, which is at least supposed to be close to sRGB color space standard in terms of color reproduction.

You can do graphics driver adjusting in any preset profiles, but usually it's better to try adjust OSD settings first and if needed only finetune with driver settings.

the 1:1 means that the monitor will use the native resolution

1:1 does not mean native resolution but instead it's one of the monitors display modes. In this mode it won't strech (lower than native resolution) image to full screen but instead ads black bars. For example for 1920 x 1080 resolution at 1:1 there will be added 60 pixels wide black bars to top and bottom. Not quite sure if WH model has 1:1 mode like WP model.

and although the cable has HDMI, it doesn't carry audio because the other end would be in a DVI plug at the GPU.

Correct.

And when I finally somehow get the drivers installed and a picture to the monitor, I should head out to the http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test and do every test in there and adjust the colors and brightness. Any good way of testing the light bleeding or something? And what would be the first step to take as soon as I turn the monitor on? Will it ask me something or the drivers and such?

Yep, some sort of calibration would certainly be a good idea and Lagom tests are pretty handy for that. You should note though that since WH model is a TN panel it will show quite horrible results in viewing angle tests - and generally changing settings won't improve that at all. Greyscale tests might also show some banding with TN panel.

And is there a reason for me to go into the service menu and check the version? Or try to get the 64 number to 63 from the SoftMCCS? If the screen seems blue I should? I was kind of lost right there. Also the EEPROM and EDID and those are a mystery to me.

That kind of tweakin would be only for faulty displays that show bluish blacks. And even then warranty would cover it, so there is no need to try fix it yourself unless you absolutely want to.
 
That kind of tweakin would be only for faulty displays that show bluish blacks. And even then warranty would cover it, so there is no need to try fix it yourself unless you absolutely want to.
Ít's a design problem of the 245WP and of course won't be covered by warranty. We're on our own on this one.

I'm using "User" mode (as I said, sRGB mode is unusable because it sets the white point to RGB to no more than 227), but the screen does not keep any settings. SoftMCCS does still display 63 after a reboot but the screen is actually still using 64.
Guess we'll have to live with the blueish black..
 
Ít's a design problem of the 245WP and of course won't be covered by warranty. We're on our own on this one.

I'm using "User" mode (as I said, sRGB mode is unusable because it sets the white point to RGB to no more than 227), but the screen does not keep any settings. SoftMCCS does still display 63 after a reboot but the screen is actually still using 64.
Guess we'll have to live with the blueish black..

Ah, interesting. Thanks for the correction then.

I assumed that this would have been rare defect because after reading this whole thread through this problem or method was mentioned only in last two pages as far as I can remember. Since there has been over a year worth of discussion about WP model pros and cons, it looks somewhat strange that no-one could catch it pefore. I guess that this isn't then something that casual or even aware user would notice easily.
 
just got mine back from RMA. its a refurb, but its in flawless condition. march 2007 manufacture date. NO DEAD PIXELS. w00t
 
it looks somewhat strange that no-one could catch it pefore. I guess that this isn't then something that casual or even aware user would notice easily.
I guess it's usually not noticed because most people run the screen at native res.
But if you use 1:1 on a lower res, it's noticeable that the "inactive" area of the screen (which is "real" black, digital 0) is clearly darker than the black of the active area.

This difference made me realize the panel cannot be driven correctly. The areas should look the same, and at luminance 63 they do.
 
This difference made me realize the panel cannot be driven correctly. The areas should look the same, and at luminance 63 they do.

You say you're using User mode. What are your settings in softMCCS? If I set Luminance to 63 in softMCCS, it's way too bright if I have the monitor itself set for User mode.

In the monitor's settings using OSD, what settings do you use? Do you keep the RGB at 100? What about contrast & brightness? thanks
 
All I'm doing is adjusting the "luminance" slider down by one notch in SoftMCCS.
RGB values are slightly tweaked because my screen is calibrated but it's nothing drastic and it doesn't matter in this case.
Brightness adjusts the backlight and also doesn't matter. I have it at 25 I think.
Contrast is at 80, higher values are digital boost and move the white point down. At Contrast 100%, white is already starting at RGB 227.
 
All I'm doing is adjusting the "luminance" slider down by one notch in SoftMCCS.
RGB values are slightly tweaked because my screen is calibrated but it's nothing drastic and it doesn't matter in this case.
Brightness adjusts the backlight and also doesn't matter. I have it at 25 I think.
Contrast is at 80, higher values are digital boost and move the white point down. At Contrast 100%, white is already starting at RGB 227.

Thanks, Enjay, appreciate it. I played around with User mode but couldn't get it right so went back to sRGB, and I also am using this handy program for gamma:

http://quickgamma.de/
 
It saddens me to say, that I'm actually starting to experience burn-in with this monitor.

I just noticed last month. When on a solid light background, I noticed smudge-looking marks, all randomly greased around the screen. After numerous attempts at cleaning the smudges, I realized as I brought the solid screen down, up, and down again, that the streaks very much resembled the exact design pattern that my desktop wallpaper had.

I changed my wallpaper to a solid white for 2 weeks, but it didn't help at all. The old pattern is burned into the screen, and it sucks alot.

I'm also noticing, not just that, but the monitor is also starting to ghost badly. I had WinAmp and a bright green menu open, and after only 5 minutes of having the green menu up, I noticed it ghosted into the monitor. Went away after another 5 minutes, but still not something you want to see at all.
 
I noticed a weird phenomen with this monitor, When looking at the screen straight on, the area in the middle seems to be darker, but when you look at the left and right edges, the image appears brighter, or lighter. I drew an example to show you what I mean.

exampleio3.jpg
 
Bad backlight bleed, VA panel effect or both. Its odd as I've never noticed it on mine nomatter what I put on my screen. completely black, red, green blue..
 
no its not backlight bleed, its different than that. its almost like the gamma is higher on the left and right sides. and if i move my head left or right it shifts.
 
I noticed a weird phenomen with this monitor, When looking at the screen straight on, the area in the middle seems to be darker, but when you look at the left and right edges, the image appears brighter, or lighter. I drew an example to show you what I mean.

no its not backlight bleed, its different than that. its almost like the gamma is higher on the left and right sides. and if i move my head left or right it shifts.

I notice the same gamma shift on mine. Ironically, I notice by far the most with the red and grey bars here on [H]ard|Forum. I'm guessing it's because of the dark colors. When playing games and such, I don't really notice it at all. I just kinda assumed it was a downside of VA panels. Still a lot better than the shift on a TN panel though IMHO, as well as having much better colors to begin with.
 
I notice the same gamma shift on mine. Ironically, I notice by far the most with the red and grey bars here on [H]ard|Forum. I'm guessing it's because of the dark colors. When playing games and such, I don't really notice it at all. I just kinda assumed it was a downside of VA panels. Still a lot better than the shift on a TN panel though IMHO, as well as having much better colors to begin with.

lol yeah the grey on hardforums is bad
 
I have looked through most of this thread and I just want to know if it ghosts at all. It seems that most say it doesn't ghost much. I have a Samsung 245BW and I like its fast response time but the color and viewing angles are not the best so that's why I'm looking at the LG... Is their any ghosting playing FPS games for the L246WP-BN? Thanks for your time.
 
I have looked through most of this thread and I just want to know if it ghosts at all. It seem that most say it doesn't ghost much. I have a Samsung 245BW and I like its fast response time but the color and viewing angles are not the best so that's why I'm looking at the LG... Is their any ghosting playing FPS games for the L246WP-BN? Thanks for your time.

Out of VA panels, this one definetly would be called 'The gamer'. Its only flaw is its input challanged, however it has digital (DVI>HDMI) and thats all that matters to most of us. Text is good on my example, perfectly readable and easy on the eyes like my 2407WFP.
 
Alright, awesome! Is the text super clear and sharp? It is on my 245BW.

Less sharp than on my 205BW. Probably from the particular anti-glare coating they used. That said, it's still very readable, and at least the pixel pitch is a bit more reasonable than my old 20-inch screen. ;)
 
I realized as I brought the solid screen down, up, and down again, that the streaks very much resembled the exact design pattern that my desktop wallpaper had.

I changed my wallpaper to a solid white for 2 weeks, but it didn't help at all. The old pattern is burned into the screen, and it sucks alot.

Interestlingly enough, I believe I've experienced a similar phenomenon, but no ghosting. I had a background on my system for a good two months and one section of the background (a light sky with clouds) that had the white clouds in it actually started to appear brighter-white than the rest of my screen. It was very, very slight, and only noticable if I drug a white browser window back and forth across my screen.

I set my background to all-black and it seems to have reset itself. My screen also doesn't stay on for long periods of time - I have a screensaver (heh, screen saver) set to turn off the monitor after a few minutes, so it's surprising that this happened at all.

I'm going to experiment more with this to be able to give an accurate report back to this thread.

I'm a HUGE FAN of these monitors, and it has been incredible thus far (I've had it since May '07, so... almost a year now of long hours of use every day).

I'm going to investigate some more like I said, and I'll report back here what I find. If I see permanent changes going on, I'll run some more tests to see if anything can help refresh the display.
 
Ok, I got my monitor back from RMA. One has the newest firmware 1.700 and the other one has a firmware of 1.440. There are HUGE differences in both firmwares. I connected my xbox thru HDMI, and the 1.440 firmware doesnt NOT show the full 1:1 resolution. In the 1.700 firmware it does show the full 1:1 resolution. You can see that the sides are getting cut off. In the 1.440 you select the ORIGINAL setting and still doesnt show full rez. In the 1.700 there IS a 1:1 option and it DOES show the full 1:1 image. ALSO the PIP in 1.700 works with HDMI connection, BUT it doesnt work on 1.440 firmware one. Also, the picture quality in the newer firmware seems to be MUCH better then the older firmware. The problem is that the one that has the newest firmare doesnt have a dead pixel and the older one has it. I think I rather have a full 1:1 resolution and working PIP then one dead pixel in the middle of the screen.
 
I received my L245WP-BN today. It's the same panel as the L246WP-BN, so my experience with it should also be relevant to the L246WP-BN. My unit was manufactured April 2008 in Poland, which pretty much amazed me considering how hard they're to get (even here in Belgium). I half expected this monitor to be nearing the no-longer-being-produced stage, but apparently some guys in Poland are still making it. I'm actually wondering what firmware version I have; maybe I too have the 1.700 version. Any idea how I can check this?

I'm happy to report that I haven't had any problems concerning the DVI-to-HDMI interface and my graphics card recognizing it as a TV (running Vista Home Premium on a GeForce 8600GT (unknown manufacturer, came with my Dell) using driver version 163.69). It was immediately recognized as a PC monitor and I was able to select 1920x1200 right away, with all text looking pixel-sharp and no misalignments whatsoever. Other than 1 subpixel near the top of the screen that will not light green, I have a perfect panel :D

I don't have time to write down all my thoughts about it right in detail right now, but there are a few points that I would like to address:

First of all, I've been seeing some pretty bad banding in gradients with this monitor. However, the funny thing is that this does not seem to be due to the monitor! I can actually take a screenshot of the picture I see the banding in, and zoom in on the banding in Photoshop. I'm not 100% sure, but I do believe that means that the banding I'm seeing is not due to the monitor. I've noticed this on several occasions, and tried replacing the gradients in the picture with Photoshop gradients and I'm glad to say that there is no apparent banding in Photoshop gradients. Apparently this monitor makes compressed pictures look inferior. Can anyone with this monitor confirm that they're also seeing gradient banding in these pictures?
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/7366/01356crepuscule1920x120yu3.jpg
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/264/01349division1920x1200ov6.jpg

As for *VA's trademark horizontal gamma shift; it's there, but you have to be looking for it to notice it. Lagom's Viewing Angle test surprised me in that the color of the word lagom was actually pretty consistent. It doesn't blend in with the background (it shows as a distinguishable red from the background), but it barely shifts color when viewed head-on. I think that's something to be happy about. It's unlike anything I've ever seen from a TN panel, that's for sure - all the TN's I've tried that test on showed huge color shifts when viewed head-on.

Also, in case anyone coming from a Dell 2407WFP-HC wants to make sure, I can confirm that there is no trace of the black ghosting that the 2407WFP-HC was suffering from (which was the reason I sent the Dell back and got this one).
 
yeah I dunno. Vista and/or Nvidia seem to make it worse for me. When I plugged my Soyo or LG into my XP machine(with an ATI card) banding is very minimal, if even there, but pretty noticeable on my Vista computer. The Soyo is slightly better with banding, but If I clone the displays the Soyo looks just bad as my L245WP.

Still it does not show up in Photoshop gradients or games like it does in Lagom's test, almost like its confined to my browsers. And no, none of this banding is anywhere near as bad as that found in rant threads.
 
Does anyone know where I can order an L245WP or L246WP? None of my local stores have them and the cheapest place I can find online is
Iunitek.com - $585 + $35 s&h

I tried the samsung 245BW and took it back immediately due to the veritcal shift. I'm used to spva panels at home and work and it looks like I'll have to stay with them.

I did see that 3btech.net has refurbs at $414 but their reputation is sketchy and reviews are awful... TIA for any help you can offer... BTW, I'm in the USA.
 
Your best bet to find one at a good price is probably going to every Circuit City and Best Buy within 60 miles. One of them is bound to have one. Be sure to ask them to check in the back. It also normally works better if you actually go to the stores instead of calling.
 
For those experiencing banding in gradients…. I noticed the same thing when I first tried this monitor. This LCD is very sensitive to gamma/brightness/contrast adjustments and I wasn’t able to fully get rid of the banding until I calibrated it with my Eye-One and even then it took a few go thru’s with different settings to finally get it right…..but I was able to get rid of all the banding…
 
I believe the program SoftMCCS has the ability to upgrade firmware. The problem is where can we get the firmware file from?
 
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