Everex XT5000T Support thread

TANWare said:
Yeah it is an old line, my first introduction and prominent memory of it is the Marx Bro's.

And I agreed they need to take their best tech and have him or her, have to be pc here, and have them address the forum first and take calls or whatever second. It would make life, especially for the casual user, much easier and could probably save the company money in the long run.

The advanatage is allot of posted questions are ones asked by many users. Posting the answer once rather than a hundered seperate times is a cost saver. It seems Everex has the exact opposite format for their User Forum.

In fact it seems like the tech's almost hide away from ever using the forum. To be honest the only reason I can see doing this is either you have no tech's or the tech's are so inept that your company fears posting their responces. It is possible they out source Tech support to a company that has no idea what they are supporting.

They may be reading from a script asking questions and using a wizard for standard answers. It is a shame but a company offering such deep pricing cuts can rarely afford say 10 higher end techs that can really address the issues. Larger companies such as Dell or HP don't have this issue.

This is where forums such as this one flourishn, and thank god for them. Look at the thread length of just this thread. It serves as proof where users can support other users. I throw the Kudos not only to the people who can answer the questions here but to the ones who ask them as well. Without eirther alot of people would probably have expensive door stops, especially the guest who cruise in the background just reading for an answer.
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I have sent at least a half dozen email support requests on various issues to Everex and have never gotten any type of response, which I find very odd.

I wonder if part of the issue is that this model isn't made by Everex, just resold by them. I don't know much about the company, other than it's a subsidiary of First International Computer (FIC), which doesn't seem to deal with anything particularly high-tech or current, at least in the PC area.

They probably pay Fujitsu-Siemens a fee to rebrand their Amilos under the Everex name, and probably have a VERY small tech staff to deal with these machines.

But here is an interesting side note -- none of the Amilo BIOSs report adding RAID functionality, and I'm pretty sure someone posted that they don't support RAID either. So can it be we actually have a feature the Amilos don't??
 
andy A said:
nietsni3

Couple of questions to clairfy what you have done.

1. Are you undervolting?
2. Did you use a piece of metal between the heatpipe and the gpu heatsink as you described in post #944. If yes did you use thermal grease on both sides of the piece of metal?
3. Are you still using the thin shim on the cpu heatsink or did you eliminate it and are just going cpu heatsink to core with thermal grease?
4. When soldering & looking at your diagram in post # 944 it appears you are just filling the voids between the piece of metal and the gpu heatsink and the voids between the heatpipe and piece of metal, is this correct?
5. What type of instrument are you using to solder, just a regular soldering gun??
6. I'm assuming you set everything in place first and tighten it down ie: the cpu heatsink, and the last step is the soldering?

Thanks
Andy
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this is not my laptop. i did it for my cousin so i just did a qucik and dirty one:
-no undervolt
-NO metal pad. i just removed the thermal pad and use solder to make a bridge between the two heatsinks. (yes, that means it's only air underneath that bridge, where the thermal pad used to be :D )
-not sure what thin shim you are talking about, but i didnt touch anything on the CPU side
-as it turned out, using solder to fill the void was trickier than i thought because the solder, unlike liquids, does not get stick to the heatsink very well (which is a good thing anyways, because you can remove it easily later on). so it took awhile before i decided to make a bridge over the heatsinks (it looks kinda ugly) instead of filling the void underneath. but i still don't think there would be much difference because it's still metal-to-metal anyways. i gotta find a better soldering material that can fill the void more effectively
-I just used a normal solder gun
-yes, the last step is soldering

perhaps i will try to take some pics later on
this mod that i did is nowhere near perfect, and I am sure there is sure a lot of room for improvement
 
183910gs8.jpg

183937ix7.jpg

184116mw5.jpg

184141rd4.jpg

184357mc3.jpg
 
the brownish substance is the flux from the solder. gotta clean it up to make it look nicer

my next step would be taking the GPU heatsink out and remove the thermal pad underneath it (on top of the GPU chip), then make a metal bridge connecting the chipset heatsink and the GPU heatsink to replace the thermal cloth that they are using.
but i cant proceed until i can open the laptop. from what i see, you cant take the laptop body apart without removing the LCD screen first. but i kinda got stuck there. anyone knows how to remove the screen?
I PMed the guy in this thread who took his xt5000t apart, but he did not answer :(
 
Gee...I wont try messed up solder with my laptop no way, I think I get a better thicker Thermal Pad slap on it.

Phatbx133
 
phatbx133 said:
Gee...I wont try messed up solder with my laptop no way, I think I get a better thicker Thermal Pad slap on it.

Phatbx133
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lol, i knew someone would say this lol. in real life it doesnt look that bad as the close-up pics make it out to be. like those anorexic hollywood actresses say, the camera adds 10lbs, you know lol

see, it looks fairly clean from 1 foot away:
192246oq5.jpg

192319ee0.jpg

like i said before, dont worry. the solder is very easy to remove.all you have to do is poking the solder gun at it till it melt, then use a de-solder pump like this to suck the melted solder out. you will be amazed how well it works:

desolder.jpg
sd024.jpg


or better yet, good soldering guns have a built-in pump that will suck the melted solder away the moment it's liquidized. very convenient

just try it once. it will take all your solderophobia away
 
give me a link to a cheap, effective solder gun. my dad has this one that has the equivalent of a metal wart on the end of it...that realllly makes me scared of soldering.
 
B34ST1Y said:
give me a link to a cheap, effective solder gun. my dad has this one that has the equivalent of a metal wart on the end of it...that realllly makes me scared of soldering.
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for this particular mod, you dont need a small soldering tip. in fact, in order to melt a large volume of solder like that (yes, that piece of solder i put on the heatsink was quite a lot compared to what is typically used), a bigger tip is more effective because it can pump more heat into the solder than the smaller one. the smaller tips are just for precision soldering on small electronic components. so you dad's warted solder gun should be doing just fine.
so, enough with the talking. just start soldering already :D


PS: one more tip: once a big chunk of solder solidifies, it will be hard to re-melt it. usually an inexperienced person will keep poking the gun at it til it melts, which will take very long. however, you can remelt it in 2 seconds by melting a small piece of solder to form a liquid drop on the gun's tip first and then poke the gun at the big chunk while still having that drop on the tip. the big chunk will melt very fast (yeah, it's like a chain reaction)
solderingjn8.jpg
 
i think i made a mistake: Temp1 in Speedfan was NOT GPU temp.
i tried running speedfan, rivatuner and NVmonitor. the temperatures reported by nvmonitor and rivatuner are way different from temp1 in Speedfan
 
MajorDomo said:
A much easier solution would be Silver Conductive Epoxy I've used it in many applications without a problem.
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I thought of that option too, but then i did not go for it because solder conducts heat better and, most importantly, is a lot easier to clean up than epoxy

also, that epoxy you suggested has these ratings:
Minimum operating temp. -30°C ( -22 °F )
Maximum operating temp. 90°C ( 194°F )
 
I don't but I saw them when they were out....if that helps rofl...

-----


hmm...lets open back up to the hacking of our video cards, eh? Anyone found a way to turn these conspiracy 7600 cards into what they were supposed to be ?
 
B34ST1Y said:
I don't but I saw them when they were out....if that helps rofl...

-----


hmm...lets open back up to the hacking of our video cards, eh? Anyone found a way to turn these conspiracy 7600 cards into what they were supposed to be ?
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apparently through rivatuner, you can make the cards into 16pipe 5 vertex shaders cards...but im too nervous to test it.
 
ive tryied to enable the extra pipes and vertex shader with no luck.... it says it does it , but when you check after changing it, its back to default :confused:
 
MajorDomo said:
I sent an email to their support and linked this thread for their information. There is a lot of info here that they probably have no clue about. I also asked if they would consider assigning some support staff to answer questions in the XT5000T forum specifically. We will see if it did any good. :cool:
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Doubt it will help much. Personally I went in well knowing what I was in for. I just feel bad for the majority who can't cope.

I myself cut my teeth on machine language back in 1979 on a 6502, well before the age of the IBM PC. I've been working on PC's since my first one, a 286-8 and 40 meg HD 3 megs of ram. Ran a BBS back then too........:D
 
B34ST1Y said:
I don't but I saw them when they were out....if that helps rofl...

-----


hmm...lets open back up to the hacking of our video cards, eh? Anyone found a way to turn these conspiracy 7600 cards into what they were supposed to be ?
Click to expand...
could you try to look in your internet browser's cache and see if the pics are still in there. i believe they are
 
nietsni3 said:
could you try to look in your internet browser's cache and see if the pics are still in there. i believe they are
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The extra pipes cannot be unlocked, they are physically disabled on the chip, not simply hardware masked like previous 5 and 6 series cards.
 
well now....define...physically disabled.


like....cut? might that be as easy as a tiny bit of solder to enable them ?



if they show up as "enabled" in rivatuner when you try to enable them...maybe that means there's no software countermeasures taken to prevent unlocking them.....the manufacturers only went as far as to cut the lines and leave it as that. So that would make sense then rivatuner says "ok....the lines should be good to go on the reboot" but when you boot up and it tests them out.... it says "uh oh...looks like theyre 'defective' I better disable them" defective...meaning the lines are cut.




idk.....
 
AthlonAlien said:
i am pretty sure they have been cut with a laser now
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Yes, the extra pipes are laser cut and unusable. In RivaTuner they show up as disabled and the hardware mask value is N/A (if it were unlockable the hardware mask would have a value). Even if you attempt to enable them, RivaTuner will show the "target" settings (what you were trying to achieve), but ultimately also show the actual settings (which are no different than before you started).
 
ok, let me put up a noob-disclaimer here....so flame on if you really wish to....



why does cutting it with a laser matter? isnt it just cut in half, and in need of a conducting bridge?
 
B34ST1Y said:
ok, let me put up a noob-disclaimer here....so flame on if you really wish to....



why does cutting it with a laser matter? isnt it just cut in half, and in need of a conducting bridge?
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i'm pretty sure it was cut inside the die, so unless you have some kind of high power microscope and know what your looking for... ;) :D.

oversimplified yes, but true :)
 
matrix563 said:
i'm pretty sure it was cut inside the die, so unless you have some kind of high power microscope and know what your looking for... ;) :D.

oversimplified yes, but true :)
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I admit this goes a bit beyond my normal scope of technology, but we're talking about chip dies of 90nm. For the metrically-challenged that's 3.54330709 × 10 ^ -6 inches. The average human hair has a diameter of 80,000 nm. We're talking really, really SMALL.

And that's why they have to use a laser, it's the only way to cut something that small as lasers theoretically have no width or height.

If there were a way to undo the laser cutting, trust me, it would be all over the net by now.
 
heh that was my point. impossible for almost anyone to undo it, let alone the manufacturers
 
What can we do thats safe to speed up this system, I bought it because I am a low budget 20yr old college student who loves games, etc, but i want to speed this baby up without fear of complete destruction of my system any advice would be completely appreciated.

THANKS.

I am into networking security I wish I knew more about laptop configs, I am more of a Desktop Guy this is my first real laptop!
 
Im loving the laptop. Its great for gaming and for watching media.


Well, great except for one thing. As good as the speakers are (and they are very good for a laptop), the damned speakers keep vibrating for some reason while playing music or a video or any multimedia. It is extremely annoying. I have to place myh ands on the speakers to absrob the vibrations to avoid irritating buzzing.

Anyone else have this problem? How do I deal with it? Reducing to volume to 60% doesn't help either, and I am NOT lowering it further, 60% is too low as it is.
 
vipersniper said:
What can we do thats safe to speed up this system, I bought it because I am a low budget 20yr old college student who loves games, etc, but i want to speed this baby up without fear of complete destruction of my system any advice would be completely appreciated.

THANKS.

I am into networking security I wish I knew more about laptop configs, I am more of a Desktop Guy this is my first real laptop!
Click to expand...

Not much on a low budget. You could replace the stock CPU with a faster one, but that leads to heat and throttling problems. You could redesign the bottom of the case and turn it into a huge heatsink, allowing you to overclock the GPU, but that requires not only copper, but machining skills and tools you're unlikely to have.

Or you can simply enjoy the great deal you got on a laptop that should be able to play virtually any game you throw at it :cool:
 
Nitaant said:
Im loving the laptop. Its great for gaming and for watching media.


Well, great except for one thing. As good as the speakers are (and they are very good for a laptop), the damned speakers keep vibrating for some reason while playing music or a video or any multimedia. It is extremely annoying. I have to place myh ands on the speakers to absrob the vibrations to avoid irritating buzzing.

Anyone else have this problem? How do I deal with it? Reducing to volume to 60% doesn't help either, and I am NOT lowering it further, 60% is too low as it is.
Click to expand...

Dunno if this will help, but try reducing the bass or adjusting the subwoofer crossover/LFE cutoff. It sounds like too much bass is being sent to the satellites, causing them to vibrate. Not many programs give you the option of a 2.1 speaker setup, so sometimes you need to improvise.

The only problem I have with the speakers is that they seem to shut off after a period of inactivity or on start up. I need to manual turn the volume dial all the way down and back up again for the speakers to kick in. Weird, huh?
 
So has any brave soul attempted to use this BIOS without having 2 hard drives?

And you wanna know something funny? I was looking at the 2 new BIOSs in a hex editor and comparing them to the Amilo BIOSs, and they really aren't all that different. In comparison, the stock BIOS in our lappys is SIGNIFICANTLY different than any of the Amilo's on the website.

Too bad I'm not rich and stupid, cause I'd buy another one of these just so I could hack the Amilo BIOS and see if they worked :eek:
 
K thanks, I was checking back on my performance scores and my laptop came up with these scores it struck me as weird because my Graphics for desktop performance came out to be way higher than what other people posted.

Processor -4.6
Memory -4.2
Graphics- 5.9
G. Graphics- 4.6
Primary Hard disk- 4.5

Also if i installed a kingston 1gb of ram to go with the previous stick, as well as a 80gb 7200rpm hd as my secondary if I were to transfer vista over to the 80gb im thinking performance would increase then use the other as data storage or replace it all together.
 
vipersniper said:
K thanks, I was checking back on my performance scores and my laptop came up with these scores it struck me as weird because my Graphics for desktop performance came out to be way higher than what other people posted.

Processor -4.6
Memory -4.2
Graphics- 5.9
G. Graphics- 4.6
Primary Hard disk- 4.5

Also if i installed a kingston 1gb of ram to go with the previous stick, as well as a 80gb 7200rpm hd as my secondary if I were to transfer vista over to the 80gb im thinking performance would increase then use the other as data storage or replace it all together.
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The memory stick will enable dual channel and will increase the score and you will definately notice the difference. the 7200 rpm drive will only help you out with performance and the score if you use it as the primary drive.
 
In my other laptop, I swapped out the 5400 for a 7200 and the difference in overall speed of the laptop was very, very noticeable. Make the switch over to the 7200, you'll like the speed increase :cool:
 
from a review on newegg:

Screen is very high definition like resolution can be unlocked using riva tuner “1600x1024” is the highest I got
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anyone else done this?
 
K thanks ill give that a try, i just hope i can get the transition to be smooth, i have xp on the 7200 i may try vista on it because xp is not liking my verizon card v640 it wnt allow me to access internet so it will only be a hassel to update drivers for xp
 
WillyWanker said:
Dunno if this will help, but try reducing the bass or adjusting the subwoofer crossover/LFE cutoff. It sounds like too much bass is being sent to the satellites, causing them to vibrate. Not many programs give you the option of a 2.1 speaker setup, so sometimes you need to improvise.

The only problem I have with the speakers is that they seem to shut off after a period of inactivity or on start up. I need to manual turn the volume dial all the way down and back up again for the speakers to kick in. Weird, huh?
Click to expand...

How do I go about doing this? thanks for your help
 
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