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Geo Fry said:lol yea thats enough to side track most people...
you know Mysterae, your probably gunna get a whole page of replies cause of that last Lotus post lol
Geo Fry said:lol yea thats enough to side track most people...
you know Mysterae, your probably gunna get a whole page of replies cause of that last Lotus post lol
warmace said:I was pritty amazed at the creativity of the crossflow fans, thats going to look so much better than what the renders showed, subscribed.
Mysterae said:Darkside, you've got a funny side! Duly noted!
There is still a car section, it just got moved into General Mayhem some time ago. Well worth the admission price! If you want to subscribe, we'd love having you and hearing more about it.Mysterae said:Glad you like the modded crossflow fans guys, they are pretty easy to make with a dremel, good sand paper and patience. I'm looking at suitable filter material at the moment to stop them sucking in dust bunnies and insects. The noise they make when they suck one in is quite sick yet amusing . Wondering about lighting them too, but don't want too much illumination just for the sake of it.
Mike160, I'm impatient too, so many ideas that I have to write them down so I don't forget them.
SpangeMonkee, I thought there was a motoring section in the [H] but couldn't find it. I was going to post and link it to there rather than tangent this thread.
Darkside, do you mean as whole, the hardware or just the case? If I were to buy the parts now I would save a great deal as all the components (gfx, cpu, mobo, ram etc) are a lot cheaper now, but hey thats computers for you. I've probably spent over £250 ($400?) on custom made water cooling parts that I couldn't make myself. I'm waiting to submit the case again after tweeking it more to get a quote. It depends on if I go for clear plexi or glass look acrylic, which really looks like glass until you lift it. It's a lot lighter than glass and obviously much easier to work with. I think the glass look will add a certain something to the case, but it depends on how much it comes to! I have a sample of it at work that I can take a pic of or you can wait until the case parts arrive to see it.
QFT!el rolio said:lotus esprit.
hoooo--lllleeeee---shhiiiiiii-iiiittttt
Mysterae said:sucking in dust bunnies and insects. The noise they make when they suck one in is quite sick yet amusing
Mysterae said:Here's a sample of the glass effect acrylic:
It's the edges that make it look like glass. When viewed straight on it has a subtle green look. If only they made it in blue, that would be awesome.
SpangeMonkee said:Cyro makes a product called Acrylite that comes in a bunch different colors and styles. Their Exotic Edge stuff may be what you are lookin for.
Mysterae said:Which brings me to an other question of purely aesthetics, what type of screws should I use? I'm thinking cap heads (more hex shapes!), but countersunk to be flush, round caphead or bolts? I can't decide at the moment, consensus?
As I said before, the case parts should arrive in the near future. It will all be undrilled so I'll have fun putting it all together before I even get any components in it.
SpangeMonkee said:Cyro makes a product called Acrylite that comes in a bunch different colors and styles. Their Exotic Edge stuff may be what you are lookin for.
Ozone77 said:My opinion:
No bolts, no acorn nuts. Flat heads that use Hex Allen holes or, if you can't countersink the acrylic for the flatheads, then regular Hex/Allen screws.
Wait, if you are having someone cut the acrylic for you, why not have them drill/cut as many holes as possible? Otherwise, make sure you use a nice drill-press to make all your holes as straight as possible.
Mysterae said:That is a good find! Unfortunately I'm not in the US and after speaking to my supplier he can get it but only in 3mm and 5mm thick, and would cost a fortune. So it's glass look or clear. IMO the green looks like glass whereas the blue would look like coloured plexi (I'm making excuses now)...
SpangeMonkee said:yeah it is expensive even in if you're in the US. It cost something like $150 for a 48x96 sheet. The best thing to do (for small jobs) is to find a local plastic dealer that will let you look at their cutoff bin. They usually sell it for 50% to 75% off of the wholesale cost. I always grab scraps of stuff from my work (specialty printer) and bring it home for whenever the need arises.
Mysterae said:
Mysterae said:- The location of the pumps is aimed for the original design, purely so the can be anchored down with anti-vibration mounts and keep the heat generated by them cooled a little by the crossflow fans and also so they don't interrupt the air from them. The water does flow down to them, but you are right, they will have to push the water back up again. Hopefully they shouldn't have to work too hard.
Kaldskryke said:I might be a bit rusty on my fluid mechanics, but I'm not so sure having the pumps lower is going to make a difference. Any hydrostatic head generated by having pump the water up the tubes would be cancelled out by the pressure generated by having the water come down the tubes. Longer tubes might increase the pressure drop, but at steady-state the change in elevation won't matter if the net change is zero.
Mysterae said:SpangeMonkee, yeah I need to get in a scrap bin, I'm sure I could make something interesting! All the bits I need are a little big to find in a parts bin though!
2uantuM said:anyone else think this is never going to be finished?
2uantuM said:anyone else think this is never going to be finished?