DFI Daishi
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2005
- Messages
- 2,839
sounds good to me.R1ckCa1n said:I think I will take some pictures of the countertop and maple cabinets.
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sounds good to me.R1ckCa1n said:I think I will take some pictures of the countertop and maple cabinets.
R1ckCa1n said:Maybe you should add J-Pepper to your sig too?
LOL.. you actually made me laugh.Erasmus354 said:Or maybe I should take you out and replace you with him, since I think you have gotten my point by now. (or add him to ignore with TN)
I think you should take some pictures of your kitchen At least until you finish testing the storm.
R1ckCa1n said:No shit! I can't beleive IT-Trade didn't ship any XT's.
Derrick70 said:whats up with sharka not having the tube meters thats a lil up setting to my self. i picked up a multiswitch from IT-Trade and now i have to place another order to get the stuff sharka didn get. but anyway any one have the book on the multiswitch?
R1ckCa1n said:I paid more than that from IT-Trade.
Erasmus354 said:For that amount of money you could buy a monkey to cook your meals, clean your house, and stare at your resevoir all day.
R1ckCa1n said:WE HAVE A WINNER!!!!!
TEMPS, OVERCLOCKS COMING THIS WEEKEND.
In all seriousness, I have achieve great overclocks and temps with a Storm running 3/8" tygon (Aquastream pump, Thermochill PA120.2 rad) but it still looks bulky. I will give this a try as Sharka did not receive any Cuplex XT's and I am feeling lucky.
Plus it gives me a reason to install my tubemeters, and multiswitch.
EnJoY120 said:You'd get better temps with that Storm block if you used an MCP655 pump instead. The Storm really loves high pressure as it's a very restrictive block and the area of 2.5-3.0gpm is optimal for it. With that pump you're using now you're only getting around 1.5gpm, with the mcp655 you could be over 2.0 with ease and drop your temps a degree or so.
Also, don't bother with the cuplex xt if you already have a storm, it performs worse.
EnJoY120 said:You'd get better temps with that Storm block if you used an MCP655 pump instead. The Storm really loves high pressure as it's a very restrictive block and the area of 2.5-3.0gpm is optimal for it. With that pump you're using now you're only getting around 1.5gpm, with the mcp655 you could be over 2.0 with ease and drop your temps a degree or so.
Also, don't bother with the cuplex xt if you already have a storm, it performs worse.
Actually I changed my Cuplex XT with a Storm and went to 3/8" tubing to see what it was all about. My findings, ON MY COMPUTER, was that I was not able to overclock any further than the Cuplex XT allowed. Based on this, I was going to switch back to the XT since it looks a hellofah sexier.EnJoY120 said:You'd get better temps with that Storm block if you used an MCP655 pump instead. The Storm really loves high pressure as it's a very restrictive block and the area of 2.5-3.0gpm is optimal for it. With that pump you're using now you're only getting around 1.5gpm, with the mcp655 you could be over 2.0 with ease and drop your temps a degree or so.
Also, don't bother with the cuplex xt if you already have a storm, it performs worse.
The D5 is not as quite as the Aquastream pump so why bother.EnJoY120 said:6mm ID...ouch. I do not envy you.
Oh and to whoever said the D5 was noisy, it's one of the quietest pumps in production. Quieter than the MCP600/50z and on par with the Eheim.
R1ckCa1n said:The D5 is not as quite as the Aquastream pump so why bother.
I'm surprised you have not noticed that my temps are better than most peoples Apex kits. Actually, show us YOUR temps.
R1ckCa1n said:The D5 is not as quite as the Aquastream pump so why bother.
I'm surprised you have not noticed that my temps are better than most peoples Apex kits. Actually, show us YOUR temps.
Erasmus354 said:What will his temps to prove to anyone? That it is within the margin of error? Have you not learned by now that the CPU temp probe is utterly useless for determining the performance of a cooling solution?
BioPort said:yeah yeah yeah, and a die simulator is the only true method of testing a waterblocks performance. give it a rest.
the cpu temp probe is all people have to go by to determine REAL WORLD performance. how am I to determine the effectiveness of my cooling solution without the CPU probe? should i stick a thermometer under the cpu?
BioPort said:sure, your socket A method works if you use socket A... but what about those of us who have moved beyond that generation of cpus? are we supposed to attach a thermistor to the IHS? somehow i doubt that it would be much more accurate than the on-die sensor.
yes, i read those docs about how the internal sensor is not located in an area that gives the most accurate temp readings, but how do you figure that a probe attached to the side of the IHS is more accurate?
R1ckCa1n said:The D5 is not as quite as the Aquastream pump so why bother.
EnJoY120 said:The Aquastream is an eheim...and yes, they are very very quiet pumps...with poor pressure for their flow.
But according to Cathar, when he first did his testing of the then 'brand new' Laing D5 over at OCAU and ProCooling, he tested heat dump, he tested performance and he also tested noise due to the fact that the D4 had been such a loud and annoying pump. Heatdump took a rise to around 20w, performance also took a rise, and noise plummeted to what he said were 'eheim levels'. I'm trying to located that exact topic right now infact, but it's been awhile.
I concur bro. If I wanted max max max overclock and noise was not an issue, I drop in a promy.J-Pepper said:--> edit: This is for all the temperature probe people.. few replies where submitted whilst I was writing this.
but does it really matter???
CPUs are designed with a threshold, and that threshold temperature range is conservative (it always is in any product, not just computer CPUs).
What matters is how stable the CPU is, whether your chip reads 23 degrees or 53 degrees, or if it is actually 33 degrees or 43 degrees, as long as the performance is stable it doesn't matter.
Even if the motherboard diodes are +/-10 degrees off, who cares unless you are the most die-hard over-clocker or an anal retentive wrt CPU temperatures.
The OP has stated that he wants a set over-clock (which is has already achieved) and a silent system and doesn't care if his temperatures are higher or lower as long as his requirements are met.
I get really annoyed when people jump in a say 'oh noes! you n00bzors.. mobo senzors are not teh win and suck'.. what nobody has perfected die test beds, the vast majority don't have laser thermometers, and temperature probes on the side of the IHS are just as inaccurate as anything else built into the CPU or the motherboard.
Just stop spouting random stuff because you read it on XS and that makes you a l33t über expert because nobody knows and the only thing everyone has in common (how ever inaccurate it may be) are the sensors provided by the CPU and motherboard manufacturers... the positions of these things are standard, the calibration (within particular makes, models and revisions) are standard and that means that a relative comparison can be easily made. Of course it's not 100% accurate, and afaik, no body has ever said it was... but just stop ripping people you use these sensors because it makes you look l33t... it really doesn't.
J-Pepper said:but does it really matter???
CPUs are designed with a threshold, and that threshold temperature range is conservative (it always is in any product, not just computer CPUs).
What matters is how stable the CPU is, whether your chip reads 23 degrees or 53 degrees, or if it is actually 33 degrees or 43 degrees, as long as the performance is stable it doesn't matter.
Even if the motherboard diodes are +/-10 degrees off, who cares unless you are the most die-hard over-clocker or an anal retentive wrt CPU temperatures.
The OP has stated that he wants a set over-clock (which is has already achieved) and a silent system and doesn't care if his temperatures are higher or lower as long as his requirements are met.
I get really annoyed when people jump in a say 'oh noes! you n00bzors.. mobo senzors are not teh win and suck'.. what nobody has perfected die test beds, the vast majority don't have laser thermometers, and temperature probes on the side of the IHS are just as inaccurate as anything else built into the CPU or the motherboard.
Just stop spouting random stuff because you read it on XS and that makes you a l33t über expert because nobody knows and the only thing everyone has in common (how ever inaccurate it may be) are the sensors provided by the CPU and motherboard manufacturers... the positions of these things are standard, the calibration (within particular makes, models and revisions) are standard and that means that a relative comparison can be easily made. Of course it's not 100% accurate, and afaik, no body has ever said it was... but just stop ripping people you use these sensors because it makes you look l33t... it really doesn't.
Top Nurse said:The Aquastream is akin to an Eheim 1046 on steroids. It typically runs a bit better than a Eheim 1048. The Innovatek HPPS Plus is essentially the same except Innovatek put the controller in the pump body.
IIRC someone once did an actual sound comparison of different pumps and the D5 was not quiet unless you consider a jet quiet when comparing it to a sailplane.
BTW, a pumps head is one of those data lists that might help you compare one pump to another, but who really cares if it can pump 12 feet in the air? An Eheim 1046 is capable of cooling a computer that is located 20 feet above it in a closed loop. Also how high does a typical water copoling application cause water to be lifted anyway? Say 2 1/2 feet max?
It is your tacked that is questioned. You come in this forum acting like you are some expert, dropping names of people, and talking smack. Since you have yet to really say something that impressing anyone on this forum, we grow tired fast. I'd be interested to see Cathar chirp in as I know he visits this forum and let us know what his experience is with you and your knowledge of block design, pump data, and testing methods.EnJoY120 said:I don't believe I ever ripped anyone for what you're referring too, unless you aren't referring to me at all? I was just answering questions and elaborating on what Erasmus said. You guys all tend to get pretty angry over very very little. I still don't understand that, as this is one of the only large forums in the world that is like that from my experience. Normally people can have a conversion without being called names or people using caps lock and exclamation points. :/
R1ckCa1n said:It is your tacked that is questioned. You come in this forum acting like you are some expert, dropping names of people, and talking smack. Since you have yet to really say something that impressing anyone on this forum, we grow tired fast. I'd be interested to see Cathar chirp in as I know he visits this forum and let us know what his experience is with you and your knowledge of block design, pump data, and testing methods.
You should read the posts instead of trying to force your expert opinions and see that my goal was to TRY it to see if my overclocks remain the same. The plus is I have less clutter in my case and just is all around fun to try. This to me is more valuable than any die simulator test as it directly impacts ME; the one spending the cash on blocks.
What you are missing completely is I am going to 1/2" to 3/8" with no loss of overclock and temps are still within a margin of mounting error. Now I am going all the way down to 6mm to see if the overclocks remain. What does this tell us? It tells me you might not need all the fans, marine quality pumps and 1/2" tubing to achieve a nice overclock. Isn't this more valuable data to a user than what temp a meter reads on a die simulator?
EnJoY120 said:Your tests are great information for you, however since you are not testing in what many would determine as a scientific testbed, I don't think the information you gather from such tests really deserve a place anywhere else but your head. If you've tested and for you your new procedures work better than your old, great, and feel free to share, but until proven by a veritable crowd, they don't deserve to be dictated to others.
Top Nurse said:So if 10 people have the same experience with their smaller tube sizes and pumps would that then be good data? How about 25 people, or 50 people? How about 100 people? Where does the data become good data?
The issue about ProCooling is dubious as well when discussing lower flowing systems as they have never tested such systems. Same potential problem with SystemCooling as well because they can't reduce flow and maintain accuracy under about a GPM. This happens to usually be the high end of these type systems. So from my perspective "your" data is very dubious indeed.
EnJoY120 said:Older topic: Did you read my reply to your head pressure question btw? I thought I explained that pretty well.
Well, the thing is, there is not a single block on the market, ever made in fact, that will perform better at low flow rate than it would at a higher flow rate. There have been blocks made to perform better at low flowrates than some other blocks (mcw6000 vs maze 4 for example), but even those blocks perform better when they are given more flow. This is of course assuming the radiator can absorb the extra heat (even if minimal in some cases) from the more powerful pump without issue, which is generally the in single or even dual block systems with 2x120mm radiators or larger.
Top Nurse said:Yes I read what you said, but it just doesn't account for what goes on in a closed loop. How does your theory slide with the fact that I can take a Eheim 1046 and put in a bucket of H2O and run the tubing up to the second floor and cool off a contemporary computer with all the normal blocks us lower flowers tend to use? With your head theory that would seem to be impossible correct? The problem is that the head pressure doesn't mean much in a closed loop as the water that is going up is balanced by the water pressure pressure that is coming down.
We don't care if a block performs better at a higher flow rate! What we care about is whether it works properly at the flow rate we choose to use. The problem, as I specified earlier, is that test sites on this side of teh pond are setup for testing in a manner that is not conducive to a lower flowing environment. Thus we see people more interested in real world results like R1ckCa1n is doing.
Top Nurse said:Yes I read what you said, but it just doesn't account for what goes on in a closed loop. How does your theory slide with the fact that I can take a Eheim 1046 and put in a bucket of H2O and run the tubing up to the second floor and cool off a contemporary computer with all the normal blocks us lower flowers tend to use? With your head theory that would seem to be impossible correct? The problem is that the head pressure doesn't mean much in a closed loop as the water that is going up is balanced by the water pressure pressure that is coming down.
We don't care if a block performs better at a higher flow rate! What we care about is whether it works properly at the flow rate we choose to use. The problem, as I specified earlier, is that test sites on this side of teh pond are setup for testing in a manner that is not conducive to a lower flowing environment. Thus we see people more interested in real world results like R1ckCa1n is doing.
Everytime I read a post like this I smile.BellaCroix said:I'm going to have to chime in here too... I could care less if I'm getting 1 lpm, 2 gpm, or 100 gpm @ 300 PSI running over a peltier block through a garden hose.
Very few of us are trying to match the 7ghz overclock I recently read about (that PC was cooled with liquid nitrogen and was only stable for 12 seconds or so).
I'm pulling a moderate overclock, my temps are well within the acceptable limits, and my PC is stable as a rock glued to a bigger rock.
I'm currently building my third watercooled PC, the first was 1/2" DD gear, the second was the bastard child of Innova/AC using 8x1 tube and a "crappy" Eheim pump. My overclock and stability remained the same. I decided I liked the look of the 8x1 tubes so I'm building the third using the same (this one will probably use more AC than Innova but I'm still pricing all the parts).
Will a larger bore hose flow better, in most instances, yes. Will a waterblock benefit from higher flow/pressure rates, testing indicates they will (although different blocks benefit differently). Will that translate into potentially higher overclocks, I suppose so. Will a loop built using garden hose and a Corvette radiator cool better? I'm sure it will. Does that really matter? I guess it does if you're in the overclock olympics, for many of us, not so much.