The WC Thread: You got questions, we got answers!

better yet, just have the water run from your sink to your CPU block (use cold water) and from CPU block to your bathtub...This will be great! You can cool your computer and take a bath about once a day.
 
Thats funny, I have thought about doing that. Sadly, my parents wouldn't apreciate 2 hoses going into my room from the bathroom.
 
Top Nurse said:
Parents just don't have a sense of humor these days. ;)
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And I'm one of the worst................. :eek: Do as I say or get out..............that's the rule at my house...................... :D
 
How do I go about figuring out how large a radiator / pump I need? Is there a guide anywhere? I'm looking for something along the lines of these particular parts (CPU, NB, GPU) are known to generate such-and-such watts of heat, and these parts (rad) can dissipate such-and-such watts of heat under such-and-such circumstances (overclock, flow, etc.), which making such-and-such noise. That's a lot of variables, sure...

I plan on building up an A64 system in the next (indeterminate time), with a budget of (dependant on said indeterminate time), and while I have two general system configurations in mind, I don't want to bug people every time I rethink a minor aspect.

Also, it was mentioned earlier in this thread that NB blocks aren't needed. Front what little I understand, the NB controls disk, expansion board, and built-in port traffic... I expect I'll be working the disks and PCI slots fairly hard (think 1 or 2 SATA audio drives, at least one firewire audio card with many channels, possibly an additional firewire drive). Would this cause the NB to heat up, or are they just generally cool components? For those MBs with "hot" NBs (i.e., reviewers say that a passively-cooled NB is too hot to touch), would a water block then become important? Or are they just a "feel-good" thing?
 
I don't think water cooling the NB is important IF you have good air flow in your case. I OC the crap out of my CPU up to 310x9 at time and run it at 275x9 24/7 and my NB rarely goes over 40c. The added restriction will off set any gains water cooling the NB brings.
 
It is massively unlikely that I will want SLI, as I have no intent on running games. The purpose of this machine is audio work-- so I want it as dead silent as possible first-and-foremost, which actually led me to the NB question... if a NB wants active cooling, should I water cool it, or stick a passive cooler on it and let it run a little warm? I think my answer is to let it run warm.

Bio-Hazard, what do you push through your NB? What's your disk / peripheral workload like?

Given that I don't need to game, and will from time to time do some video, can I get by with a passively cooled graphics card? I don't have a good idea of modern graphic card abilities-- how powerful they are vs. power + cooling requirements.

If that's the case, then I would guess that I can run a single CPU block, which will initially sit on something like a 3000+, but ultimately work on something more like a 4400+. Since it's only cooling one component, can I stick with a single 120mm rad / fan + 120mm case fan + PSU fan? That's already 3 fans; more than I was hoping for.

If I do overclock, it will be rather minor. Likely no volt-modding, just some light tweaking.

Thanks for the input!
 
My system are mainly test beds, I review for 2 different sites, so when they both are running, the system is running at 100% load a lot of the time. Disk space on my system is limited 80 gig per maching as I don't need a lot of disk space for running bench marks and I format and fresh install with every release for new drivers or different products, I have to have a clean OS all the time. I do run a DVD RW and CD RW for my different coping and backup needs, but that's about all really. Just make sure your case has good airflow and you should be fime.
Even my second system Abit AV8 (socket 939 A64 3200 Winchester) OC'd to 240x10 (the chip sucks for OC'ing) runs a passive NB cooler and it's been just fine, so I see no real need for water cooling the NB unless you have extra cash and aren't worried to much about the max overall performance and only want quiet cooling.
 
If you really want to WC your nb, do this:
1. Use a Y, if the nb block is very restrictive.
2. If you're up to waking a block easily adequate enough for cooling your nb, get a piece of 1/8" thick copper plate big enough to use your mobo's nb hsf mounting holes, soldier a piece of copper pipe over the center in whatever direction you want the tubing to face, then soldier in 2 barbs and you're done. That gives you a very low restriction (if it's hard to get tubing to bend, stick a couple of 45* sweeping copper elbows where needed) and fairly easy and quick to make nb block, that can even fit under sli'd GTXs if needed (squich the pipe a little bit if clearance is an issue). If cosmetics are a concern, then paint the block whatever you want, or give the nice shine that 2000+ grit can give to copper.

For what hardware to choose, this question might be better off in General Hardware.
 
Will my 380W Antec PSU be able to handle the pump or do pumps barely have any effect on the PSU?

6800gt, one 7200.7 Seagate HD, 1 DVDrom and 2 fans is what I currently have hooked up, excluding the mobo of course.
 
It should, unless you're already usuin all your Antec's 12v amps, or you're trying to power an Iwaki MD-30RZ with a 12vdc->120vac inverter.
 
is 12V the molexs with 4 ports? the common ones? cause I still have 2 left.
 
After reading so much my head is spinning, I still need some help selecting a pump. What is pump max head? Doesn't an inline pump make the most sense so wasted heat energy goes into the air instead of the water? I plan on looping to my cpu, gpu, and nb, so I need something with some power, and I would prefer 12v I think.
 
Max head is used to help determine how powerful a pump is, which helps when you have restrictive components in your loop. Pumps don't make much heat compared to modern cpus, gpus, and even chipsets, so the amount of heat a pump puts into a loop is nominal as long as you aren't using one of the pumps that is being used to drain New Orleans, or another equivalent. The best overall inline DC (runs off of 12v from a molex) pump is the Laing D5 (also rebranded my Swiftech as the MCP655), which can be adjusted for maximum flow or to be very quiet, but most people consider the pump to still be quiet its highest setting.

If you can't afford a D5, look at the C-Systems Mag for about $50 (another 12v, quiet pump, but only about 2"^3. If that's still too much, then look at Eheim or Hydor aquarium pumps, which can be run inline or submerged. If you need to fit your pump in a very small area, you could get a Laing DDC (Swiftech MCP350) which has plenty of head (good for restrictive loops), or if you find one for less than a D5, you can mod it to give it nearly as much flow as the D5, still with plenty of head.
 
I'm not sure if this has been answered but I did search for it! Does your pump have to be at the bottom of the case? like say I wanted to put it where the floppy drives go, would that be okay? I was thinking about getting the Swiftech H2O-APEX kit (i have Tt Bigwater right now). Tell me what would be the best setup for a Tt Shark case? :) Thanks for helping a no0b!
 
Stick it wherever you want, as long as you aren't kinking the tubing. Empy hard drive bays or 5 1/2" bays are good places to stick the pump if you don't want to use the included mounting bracket to stick the D5 on the bottom of your Shark.
 
Thanks for the reply, yeah, if I dont put in in the bottom i'll definatly put it on one of the drive bays and ill put the rad in the top pulling in cool air...
 
why is it soo hard to find aquacomputer parts in the US? and are they worth the price? - i hear they are pricey?
 
chronic9 said:
why is it soo hard to find aquacomputer parts in the US? and are they worth the price? - i hear they are pricey?
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1: Only one retailer in the US
2: Depends on who you talk to and if you're looking for pretty (average performance) or high performance.
3: One of, if not the most expensive in the US.
 
chronic9 said:
why is it soo hard to find aquacomputer parts in the US? and are they worth the price? - i hear they are pricey?
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They are not difficult to find depending on what you are looking for.

There is actually several places you can buy AC gear from. The main importer is Sharka. Another outfit up in Seattle sells selected Aqua Computer parts with their systems. A new distributor in Texas should have stock before years end. SNT Systems is the old distributor, but I would highly caution you about any business dealings with them (caveat emptor) and suggest you do a search on the [H]ardForum about them before you send any of your loot.

I think they are definitely worth the price and I have a lot of Aqua Computer gear to back up that thought. You can see my current project called Feeding Frenzy here on the [H]ardForum. You can also go to The new Aqua Computer discussion thread for some outstanding information on Aqua Computer products. This same thread also has links for some really great information and other projects so you can make up your own mind as to whether Aqua Computer gear is worth it or not. :)

Price is a relative concept depending on your financial resources and what you want. That is why people here in the USA can buy Hyundai's or BMW's depending on their needs, desires, and finances. Aqua Computer is expensive, but much of this is due to the Euro to Dollar exchange rates and the cost of air shipments from Germany to the USA. Best to take that problem up with President Bush. ;)
 
Top Nurse said:
They are not difficult to find depending on what you are looking for.

There is actually several places you can buy AC gear from. The main importer is Sharka. Another outfit up in Seattle sells selected Aqua Computer parts with their systems. A new distributor in Texas should have stock before years end. SNT Systems is the old distributor, but I would highly caution you about any business dealings with them (caveat emptor) and suggest you do a search on the [H]ardForum about them before you send any of your loot.

I think they are definitely worth the price and I have a lot of Aqua Computer gear to back up that thought. You can see my current project called Feeding Frenzy here on the [H]ardForum. You can also go to The new Aqua Computer discussion thread for some outstanding information on Aqua Computer products. This same thread also has links for some really great information and other projects so you can make up your own mind as to whether Aqua Computer gear is worth it or not. :)

Price is a relative concept depending on your financial resources and what you want. That is why people here in the USA can buy Hyundai's or BMW's depending on their needs, desires, and finances. Aqua Computer is expensive, but much of this is due to the Euro to Dollar exchange rates and the cost of air shipments from Germany to the USA. Best to take that problem up with President Bush. ;)
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I love the way you put the high price of Greman items off on our government.............. :eek: Just a bit of info for the people that have never lived or worked in a wonderful EU country. Their labor costs are one of the highest, if not the highest in the world. They have ungodly taxes on everything making the end price even higher, sales tax there is a minimum of 17% depending on what country you live in. If you were to buy any American made products, you pay extremely high taxes and duties, yes even higher than here. In Germany, it's cheaper to buy a BMW or MB than it is to but a Chevy or Ford due to the taxes.
When I lived and worked over there (20 years altogether), I was paying 45-50% of my income in just standard income withholding, standard sales taxes were extra. So if you think Pres. Bush is making it hard on us here, try living over there and paying what they pay.
That the main reason German items cost so much over here, they are just as high as over there, minus shipping of coarse.

On a side note TN, your several places dropped down to one reliable place to buy the product ............Sharka.........over priced.......... :eek:
You also forgot to mention that the performance is there for the price, although they do look OK. Most Americans that I know of want a little value for their money.
 
Bio-Hazard said:
You also forgot to mention that the performance is there for the price, although they do look OK.
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Quoted for truth: Thanks for making the point for me that they do have the performance for the price. :D
 
chronic9 said:
how about a "how to build ur 1st h2o rig" tutorial or thread?
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You have no idea how much I would enjoy that. Instead of having multiple threads about "OH EM GEE! IS THIS g00d ENUFF FOR MY EH EM DEE!?!" type topics. I am getting sick of reading them.

Thats one of the best idea's i've heard all day.
 
I'm trying to fit some hose that is 12mm diameter over the nipple on the DangerDen DD12V-D5 (Laing D5-38/810N) which is 1/2" I think.. But I can't get the hose over, do I need to boil it or something? :/ It's PVC hose

IMG_2485.jpg

pic looks weird, the hose is NOT going into the nipple, just holding it next to it

edit: Tried to boil the hose but it didn't help much... It went over with like 2 mm and then no more
 
That looks to be 1/2"od 3/8"id tubing. It will be really hard to squeeze your tubing over the D5's barbs, so just get some 1/2" or 7/16" id tubing. 10' of 7/16"id-5/8"od tubing was only $8 shipped from McMaster.com (check pag 82).
 
ikellensbro said:
That looks to be 1/2"od 3/8"id tubing. It will be really hard to squeeze your tubing over the D5's barbs, so just get some 1/2" or 7/16" id tubing. 10' of 7/16"id-5/8"od tubing was only $8 shipped from McMaster.com (check pag 82).
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I ordered like 1 meter of 1/2" tubing and a pair of 1/2" -> 3/8" converters... Hope it works better :p This is starting to get expensive, lol!
Hm McMaster, do they ship worldwide? I'm in Sweden.
 
Ok I have a question that is about waterblock fittings.
I am looking for the fittings that coolermaster use on their cpu waterblock. I mean the chrome fittings that connect hose to waterblock.

I have asked Coolermaster this question and they are clueless.
But Anyways, who makes these connectors or who sells them?
 
I've read some people saying that having a res is a bad idea, they said that a lot of people had them break and leak, they recommended using a t-line. Unfortunately I already have everything bought including a res mounted with a pump from swiftech. Should I be worried about the res leaking all over my very expensive hardware? Is there anything I can do to prevent it from happenining?
 
toxikneedle said:
I've read some people saying that having a res is a bad idea, they said that a lot of people had them break and leak, they recommended using a t-line. Unfortunately I already have everything bought including a res mounted with a pump from swiftech. Should I be worried about the res leaking all over my very expensive hardware? Is there anything I can do to prevent it from happenining?
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I've read that too and my guess is that the people that say that either have a) Very cheap reservoirs or b) old style reservoirs.
 
I know where and who has been telling you all these stories about the Swiftech rez. Like I said on the other forum, as long as you read and follow the printed instructions that are in plain english, you will be fine, just take your time and go step by step. And don't do what the one guy did when he said that it has to be cranked in as far as it'll go or it'll leak. That's exactly why it cracked the rez and leaked, they have tappered NPT and the farther to tighten them, the larger the diamiter and it over stresses the plastic causing it to break................... :eek:
 
Scorpionjwp said:
Ok I have a question that is about waterblock fittings.
I am looking for the fittings that coolermaster use on their cpu waterblock. I mean the chrome fittings that connect hose to waterblock.

I have asked Coolermaster this question and they are clueless.
But Anyways, who makes these connectors or who sells them?
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Those are called compression fittings. They have a small hose barb over a threaded section, then you screw a locking nut over the hose to secure it to the barb. They're usually found on German cooling units; like Innovatek and 1A Cooling. They're usually available from most places that sell fittings, as long as you know what you want - some look different from the nickel plated ones you're seeing.

They come in many sizes too.
 
Top Nurse said:
SNT Systems is the old distributor, but I would highly caution you about any business dealings with them (caveat emptor) and suggest you do a search on the [H]ardForum about them before you send any of your loot.
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I have done sucessful business with SNT-systems, as long as you are willing for items to be imported, at least when I got my components. Back in the day he was the only source in the USA, so it took some time to get the items over here. However he stays in close toutch with his customers and delivers in the end.

Aquacomputer is pricey, but in my opinion it is the BEST looking water cooling hardware on the market. The quality of the components are beyond compare. Some would argue that the cooling performance doesn't match a regular 1/2' system set up, but with my 360x120mm radiator running near-silent with a XP3200+ and R9800Pro on the water cooling system at 35c, it makes me happy.
 
As long as you're happy with your best looking components that's all that matters............... :D
 
I have another question reguarding watercooling, is there a way to waterproof your motherboard to prevent it from shorting out, in case or a rare event the system would leak?

I know there is a chemical you spray on the motherboard, but using the search function on the forum provided me with nothing.
 
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