Moblie or Desktop CPU for socket A system?

I hear the Mobile procs are *crazy* overclockers, but I've never had one myself. I run a 3000+ and it works fine, although I relaly need to upgrade to Socket 939. If you have the cash I suggest you do the same thing.

I'd go for a socket 754 if I were you. Much more upgrade potential.

I'm currently bench testing a fun backup rig with similar components as you're planning to use:

Unlocked xp3200+, Locked xp3000+, xp2100, xp2400
DFI LP nf2 Ultra-B
OCZ EL Platinum Rev2
Asus 5950 Ultra
Vantec 520w

I have had Mobiles before, and I'm currently looking for another good 2600-M and I can tell you with certainty that those are the way to go. Look at the voltage they run at. The Mobiles run at 1.45, thus have more cooling headroom. They have unlocked multipliers by default, and just flat out seem to overclock better. That DFI board will give you all the settings you need to get the most out of the chip you choose. I can tell you that rev2 ram, which has either TCCD, or TCC5 Samsung chips doesn't like voltage put to it and I've found it touchy to get everything stable even at 2.4+. I'm waiting for some good 'ol BH-5 Mushkin 3500 Level II to arrive this week to make some direct comparisons, but I'd consider the VX series of OCZ or the Mushkin Redlines. I'm currently trying the 6-19 Bios from tictac (DFIstreet) which gives more votage tweaking options, but may be causing the finiky nature of things with my board. To repeat, go with the Mobile.

ok...the 2600+ XP-M...thank you very much Toonage...as that was the info I needed..I will try to keep an eye out for your testing of those CPUs and new RAM once you get it

but bad news...it seems that I missed yet another chance to get a DFI nFII Ultra B

I am really after this board to go into a very custom looking system I want to build (hence the bad acid green color)....that motherboard is turning into my 'Holy Grail'...

so it seems that people are pretty big on the socket 754 around here...

Mert said:

I'd go for a socket 754 if I were you. Much more upgrade potential.

Click to expand...

yes...the 754 mobiles are great..I love mine

Soltek SL-K8AN2E-GR nForce3 250Gb socket 754
AMD Athlon64 DTR 1mb L2(ClawHammer CG core) 3200+ @ 2.4GHz
PQI 1GB (2 X 512mb TCCD chips) DDR PC3200 @ 240MHz 2-3-3-10 1T timings
6600GT AGP @ 569 MHz / 1188 MHz

3DMark Score 4011(need to use better/newer drivers)
Compare URL: http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm05=814243
(killer CPU 'marks... CPU Test 1...3.4 fps, CPU Test 2...4.5 fps, CPU marks total....5925 I'm sure I can get it over 6000 points)


I also have another DTR CPU that is a 3400+ (with a 11X Multi) on the DFI nForce3 250Gb with some Crucial Ballistix (Micron chips) RAM in the works

Mert said:

I'd go for a socket 754 if I were you. Much more upgrade potential.

Click to expand...

Then a 939? Not quite. Socket 754 is the "budget" socket for future CPUs. I suggest going 939 with a 3000+ and upgrading when you can, or just OCing.

Here's the choice:

1) Get 2500+ XP-M and can oc it to 2.5 GHz easily. <-- Good performance
(Budget range from $500 - 800)

2) Get new s754 system with DFI mobo and newark cpu then oc it to 2.9 GHz with no problem. <-- Better performance
(Budget range from $700 - $ 1000 w/o monitor)

3) Get new s939 system with DFI mobo and 3200+ venice cpu then oc it to 2.8 Ghz really simple. <-- Extreme performance (Budget range from $900 - $1200 w/o monitor)

Correct me if I am wrong bout this.

T Rush said:

..........I am really after this board to go into a very custom looking system I want to build (hence the bad acid green color)....that motherboard is turning into my 'Holy Grail'...

Click to expand...

lol....seems you really go for color coordinated rigs. I like the yellow and good luck with UV Lime green heatspreaders with the LP..... Get with me in PM or AIM (Tootuna2) and I just might be able to help you with that board.

but the only motherboards that I can find in acid green color are socket A

DFI LANParty NFII ULTRA B


how is the Soltek socket A motherboard?...I thought I saw one of theirs that was a really bad green color..anyone know which one it is?

[edit]
yeah...the Soltek SL-75FRN2-L NVIDIA nForce2 Ultra 400

that sure looks like a bad acid green color

but here it looks yellow/goldish? http://www.hardocp.com/article.html?art=NDY4

Toonage said:

lol....seems you really go for color coordinated rigs.....

Click to expand...

I can't resist show'n this one I built for my kid...his favorite color is orange

I think I found another DFI nFII Ultra B....

what I am planning on doing is making a overclocked nuclear melt down themed computer

I would get a case like this....

and "melt" the top, front and side half way off buy cutting and burning it

kinda like what piloux did here

but only half the case would still look all new
..and it would look like the core melted down and blew a hole out of the top of the case and is still melting and burning the case up



then I would add water cooling ...but this is where it gets good...
as you know those water cooling towers?


I would like to build a mini working one of those

I would need to use a "heat exchanger" so that the cooling loop for the computer would transfer its heat into another "container" of water(maybe a bucket?) then that water could be used in the direct water to air cooling how they use in those towers
...but this is where I get alittle stumped...is with this water to water heat exchanger that transfers the heat from one loop to the other...
1st I was going to use just a water cooling kit...and just take the normal radiator and submerge it into the water(people thought the kit I picked was cheap and wouldn't work well)
then I started putting together my own parts use'n this site http://www.voyeurmods.com/


Danger Den Maze 4 AMD WaterBlock
http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php...revaction=category&previd=2&prevstart=20#tabs

Black 12" x 5.6 " x 2" Heater Core 1/2" ID Fitting Size
http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php?action=item&id=989&prevaction=category&previd=2&prevstart=60

Danger Den CSP-MAG 12V Water Pump
http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php...prevaction=category&previd=2&prevstart=0#tabs

Round Water Resevoir
http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php?action=item&id=1019&prevaction=category&previd=2&prevstart=0

Swiftech Coolsleeves™ 625 Saturn Green
http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php?action=item&id=502&prevaction=category&previd=2&prevstart=40

Swiftech MCB-120 PCI Pass thru kit
http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php?action=item&id=490&prevaction=category&previd=2&prevstart=40


and was told that I didn't need a reservoir is this true?...I do not need a Reservoir?

so I picked these parts..use'n this BYO - Configurator 1/2 Inch


Maze 4 Socket A/AMD XP/MP - 4 Screw Hold Down
Maze 4 GPU Brass Version - Nvidia 68xx Series
Dual 120mm Heater Core with Shroud - Black
PrimoFlex - Clear 10 Feet (Free)
DD CSP-MAG 12V
10 - Green
ThermalTake Big Water UV Coolant 500ml
Arctic Silver 5 3.5g Tube

$202.25


and I was told that the "Heater Core" was a rip off

so then I found this...

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/m...3&Category_Code=hayden-cooler&Product_Count=2

...and was told that wouldn't work very good....but I still think it might...as it is being used in a water to water heat exchanger...and the water is much denser than air...so it doesn't need to have as many fins and pipes...as even a coil of tubing in a bucket would work...yes?..no?

here is a drawing I did for this water cooling idea

(I'm thinking the "tower would be about 20" tall?)

what would be good to use as the "heater core"?

any input on this water to water then water to air cooling system would help..thanx

i dont think socket a's can hit 300 fsb without alot of mods
but dont quote me on that.
in fact im pretty sure youll have to do alot of moddin to get it to 250 fsb++

like what?

water cool the north bridge?

seems like this idea for "Nuclear Tower Water Cooling "


works!!!

read here
http://www.overclockers.com/articles389/

They didn't use a radiator in that article. That just directly cooled the water instead of cooling the water that cools the radiator that cools the water that touches the cpu. The radiatorless way you only need 1 pump and save money.

yeah...but can you imagine all the dust that would turn into 'gunk' inside your cooling system/water blocks if you didn't use a water to water heat exchanger