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All Shuttle users noticed high temps in Shuttle. Many times many posts here cleared out some aspects of improving cooling in G chassis XPCs.
G chasis comes with two sizes of ICE and 4 types of Fans (atleast I've seen 4 different types) Most of following modes are good for 80 and 92 mili size of ICE although 92 mili suffers less from stock grill.
Here are few things You can doo to improve cooling of XPC and drop ~10 C inside temps.
1. Cuting out a Honeycomb grill and using a standard fingerguard. It reduces noise made by fan and made by air that comes out of a XPC. It also improves airflow and cooling but slightly increaces noise made on intake holes. Finger guard protects fragile radiator fins. It done proper in combination with some other mods it lowers temps and loweres noise.
Preferable use it when You have took care of intake then it will work best and lower a noise level.
Grill on 80 mili models has smaller holes and there is more effect removing it then on 92 mili models.
Dismantle Shuttle and take out mobo. Cut it out with Dremel. Wash it, dry it and assamble it again.
Only negative afect of taking grill out (next to a warrenty) is that with grill radiator makes contact with case so if fan falls out it still conducts heat into a case and cover helping a bit cooling.Without of it it make just little or no conntact with fingerguard. Fact that I've still have had grill maybe saved My CPU when I've forgot CPU fan connector
2. PCI slot blower. One of those old school 80 mili cage blowers that where used to exhaust hot air from grafic card HSF out of case.
Well they can be used on two ways.
a. For case cooling with intake facing inside of case
b. For mainly grafic card cooling and partialy case cooling. Intake facing a back of a grafic card.
In first case be shure no cables end up in intake and in second case be sure it has some clearance from grafic card otherwise backpreasure is to high resulting in poor preformance.
In both cases be shure that it doesn't interfear with power connector (molex) of HDD.
Alos doo not use it with smart fan or ultralow and low settings of ICE fan. If ICE fan hardly turns underpreasure made by slot cooler might be canceling airflow of a ICE fan resulting in overheating a CPU. One can connect slot cooler parallel to a ICE fan and controll it's speed together with ICE fan thrue bios. Also one can use rheostat in place where Shuttle ment You to put Your wireless antenna module and regulate fanswith it.
If You ahve grafic card with extra molex power connector it will need some extra cooling in shuttle so b option is resonable solution. With My 6800GT and all rest stock settings PCI slot blower lowers GPU temps for 3 C. With Cover with mash You can expect even hgiher drops. Use real blower design wit hdual ball bearings. Avoid cheepo coolers with normal axial impellers in case of a blower specialy avoid sleeve bearings.
3. Cover with mash. Well actualy I would call it a intake problem. With standard cover with holes and with tiny holes on botom specialy with higher airflow G chassis makes noise.
50$ gett's You a cover with mash and that one makes less noise and allows more airflow thrue the case. If used without PCI slot cooler and with smart fan it will lower moslty grafic card temps but want doo as much in case temps. If used with higher air flow it will cool whole case better.
Only one thing should be taking care of. When used in higher airflow situation then one should drill out intake holes on bottom under a mainboard. Why? Cause with cover that allows more airflow airflow patern is changed and almost no air will go thru those holes and cooling of mobo (VRM mostly) will be worse then with standard cover. Solutions is simple. When You have had dismatled Your XPC to cut out grill use 1 or 2 mili thicker drill to enlarge those holes. If You have G1 chassis use 5 mili drill and add some holes under a VRM part of mobo. If You have newer G chassis with holes under a VRM then 5 mili is to big hence use smaller drill.
This mod will lower temps and icrease airflow and lower a noise level. If You aren't using fan on full blast it will mae best effeect in reducing noise.
Good Option is also to make intake blow hole for grafic card fan and some more holes in stock coolers. With some design it could look nice too.
Good option is to cut out those Shuttle punched logo.
Good option is to have some backlight shine thru it.
I'm in process of making My own cover. It should cost less then mesh cover and it will be unick. I'm trying to find out how much does it cost to make My own cover design. Like I'll start with Alu plate and water or laser cut it in My design (cooling and looks aspect). Then I'll gett brushed finish on it and then I've anodize it. Friend from drawing department of a Company where I work will help Me drawing it in Autocad and maikng a programing for a CNC router/cutter. Aluminum plate costs nothing. Anodizing and cuting I'll have to pay. Bending of plate I can doo mayself at workshop at my workplace.
4. HDD cooling. Well best way IMHO is to make blow hole on bottom of a HDD mounting bracket and installing a flatt 60 mili fan. Like 60x60x 10 mili fan from Delta with 22 CFM does a trick. If You wanna low noise and still good preformance run it from 7 V or even better over a fan mate or other kind of a active fan controller.
5. ICE fan change. Well fo lot of people it's nummber one mod. Not for Me. Yess, with old Sunon fans specialy You can lower a noise level cause their motors are pretty loud. On other side with smart setup or low setup in BIOS they also work good. Specialy if You have had done other mods. All models with thin fans have great fan just regulate it to lower a noise and doo other mods and it will work good.
For people that have 25 mili thick (stadart thicknes) fans good option is a Y.S. Tech 80 mili fan with regulator (max. 50 CFM) Also 92 mili version is cool.
Also Enermax fans with regualtors are good options. They have nice transparent impeller hence one can make nice light effects thru them.
Best thing about changing fan is posibility to use one with a regulation and dail in own wished noise and preformance. One can also use full speed in BIOS and just use Fanmate (zalman or something simular) to dail in standard fan noise and preformance.
6. PSU. Well All 200 watt and 220 watt owners will profit from 240 or 250 watt SilentX PSU. First it will make less noise and second it run cooler and delivers more power. Hot PSU warms up XPC and air inside of it.
For owners with SilentX 240 watt PSU with fan in midle of it good option is to mod it with 40x40x20 mili fan pumping air in it. Just use Papst fan and regulate it's speed to keep it silent.
7. If Your Shuttle mainbord has no heatsinks on Power mosfets You can use some of those grafic card memory heatsink kit's and fix them with thermal doulbe sided tape (fragtape) to mosfets.
For People that doo not want to drill holes and cut out their Shuttle I would say use :
1. Mash Cover. Or Custom made cover.
2. Fan mate for ICE Fan with BIOS set up to max.
3. PCI slot cooler also with fanmate.
That would not cost so much but will lower Your temps adding just bit nosie to it. Without of cuting out and drilling in XPC there can't be preformance without noise.
Although I find ICE setup very good serious option is watercooling. Black ICE micro (80 mili version). New DD DDC-12V pump (or Swiftech MCP 350 or direct from their supplyer). For waterblocks one can use Koolance blocks. PIV 200 watt block is enough for almost all types of CPUs. PIV version will fit on PIV Shuttle mainboards and on anewer AMD mainboards with PIV retension socket. GPU waterblock can be Koolance to. Also for People that doo not mind having two boxes Exos is an option.
Only I like ICE so much and I find it more practical too. Alos almost no meintenance exepct dusting it of. With WC rig You will need to check fluid every six months. Also You will need to provide airflow in case if You are using Exos.
I hope this should be helpfull. If There is nothing new maybe atleast there is almost everything on one place.
MD
G chasis comes with two sizes of ICE and 4 types of Fans (atleast I've seen 4 different types) Most of following modes are good for 80 and 92 mili size of ICE although 92 mili suffers less from stock grill.
Here are few things You can doo to improve cooling of XPC and drop ~10 C inside temps.
1. Cuting out a Honeycomb grill and using a standard fingerguard. It reduces noise made by fan and made by air that comes out of a XPC. It also improves airflow and cooling but slightly increaces noise made on intake holes. Finger guard protects fragile radiator fins. It done proper in combination with some other mods it lowers temps and loweres noise.
Preferable use it when You have took care of intake then it will work best and lower a noise level.
Grill on 80 mili models has smaller holes and there is more effect removing it then on 92 mili models.
Dismantle Shuttle and take out mobo. Cut it out with Dremel. Wash it, dry it and assamble it again.
Only negative afect of taking grill out (next to a warrenty) is that with grill radiator makes contact with case so if fan falls out it still conducts heat into a case and cover helping a bit cooling.Without of it it make just little or no conntact with fingerguard. Fact that I've still have had grill maybe saved My CPU when I've forgot CPU fan connector
2. PCI slot blower. One of those old school 80 mili cage blowers that where used to exhaust hot air from grafic card HSF out of case.
Well they can be used on two ways.
a. For case cooling with intake facing inside of case
b. For mainly grafic card cooling and partialy case cooling. Intake facing a back of a grafic card.
In first case be shure no cables end up in intake and in second case be sure it has some clearance from grafic card otherwise backpreasure is to high resulting in poor preformance.
In both cases be shure that it doesn't interfear with power connector (molex) of HDD.
Alos doo not use it with smart fan or ultralow and low settings of ICE fan. If ICE fan hardly turns underpreasure made by slot cooler might be canceling airflow of a ICE fan resulting in overheating a CPU. One can connect slot cooler parallel to a ICE fan and controll it's speed together with ICE fan thrue bios. Also one can use rheostat in place where Shuttle ment You to put Your wireless antenna module and regulate fanswith it.
If You ahve grafic card with extra molex power connector it will need some extra cooling in shuttle so b option is resonable solution. With My 6800GT and all rest stock settings PCI slot blower lowers GPU temps for 3 C. With Cover with mash You can expect even hgiher drops. Use real blower design wit hdual ball bearings. Avoid cheepo coolers with normal axial impellers in case of a blower specialy avoid sleeve bearings.
3. Cover with mash. Well actualy I would call it a intake problem. With standard cover with holes and with tiny holes on botom specialy with higher airflow G chassis makes noise.
50$ gett's You a cover with mash and that one makes less noise and allows more airflow thrue the case. If used without PCI slot cooler and with smart fan it will lower moslty grafic card temps but want doo as much in case temps. If used with higher air flow it will cool whole case better.
Only one thing should be taking care of. When used in higher airflow situation then one should drill out intake holes on bottom under a mainboard. Why? Cause with cover that allows more airflow airflow patern is changed and almost no air will go thru those holes and cooling of mobo (VRM mostly) will be worse then with standard cover. Solutions is simple. When You have had dismatled Your XPC to cut out grill use 1 or 2 mili thicker drill to enlarge those holes. If You have G1 chassis use 5 mili drill and add some holes under a VRM part of mobo. If You have newer G chassis with holes under a VRM then 5 mili is to big hence use smaller drill.
This mod will lower temps and icrease airflow and lower a noise level. If You aren't using fan on full blast it will mae best effeect in reducing noise.
Good Option is also to make intake blow hole for grafic card fan and some more holes in stock coolers. With some design it could look nice too.
Good option is to cut out those Shuttle punched logo.
Good option is to have some backlight shine thru it.
I'm in process of making My own cover. It should cost less then mesh cover and it will be unick. I'm trying to find out how much does it cost to make My own cover design. Like I'll start with Alu plate and water or laser cut it in My design (cooling and looks aspect). Then I'll gett brushed finish on it and then I've anodize it. Friend from drawing department of a Company where I work will help Me drawing it in Autocad and maikng a programing for a CNC router/cutter. Aluminum plate costs nothing. Anodizing and cuting I'll have to pay. Bending of plate I can doo mayself at workshop at my workplace.
4. HDD cooling. Well best way IMHO is to make blow hole on bottom of a HDD mounting bracket and installing a flatt 60 mili fan. Like 60x60x 10 mili fan from Delta with 22 CFM does a trick. If You wanna low noise and still good preformance run it from 7 V or even better over a fan mate or other kind of a active fan controller.
5. ICE fan change. Well fo lot of people it's nummber one mod. Not for Me. Yess, with old Sunon fans specialy You can lower a noise level cause their motors are pretty loud. On other side with smart setup or low setup in BIOS they also work good. Specialy if You have had done other mods. All models with thin fans have great fan just regulate it to lower a noise and doo other mods and it will work good.
For people that have 25 mili thick (stadart thicknes) fans good option is a Y.S. Tech 80 mili fan with regulator (max. 50 CFM) Also 92 mili version is cool.
Also Enermax fans with regualtors are good options. They have nice transparent impeller hence one can make nice light effects thru them.
Best thing about changing fan is posibility to use one with a regulation and dail in own wished noise and preformance. One can also use full speed in BIOS and just use Fanmate (zalman or something simular) to dail in standard fan noise and preformance.
6. PSU. Well All 200 watt and 220 watt owners will profit from 240 or 250 watt SilentX PSU. First it will make less noise and second it run cooler and delivers more power. Hot PSU warms up XPC and air inside of it.
For owners with SilentX 240 watt PSU with fan in midle of it good option is to mod it with 40x40x20 mili fan pumping air in it. Just use Papst fan and regulate it's speed to keep it silent.
7. If Your Shuttle mainbord has no heatsinks on Power mosfets You can use some of those grafic card memory heatsink kit's and fix them with thermal doulbe sided tape (fragtape) to mosfets.
For People that doo not want to drill holes and cut out their Shuttle I would say use :
1. Mash Cover. Or Custom made cover.
2. Fan mate for ICE Fan with BIOS set up to max.
3. PCI slot cooler also with fanmate.
That would not cost so much but will lower Your temps adding just bit nosie to it. Without of cuting out and drilling in XPC there can't be preformance without noise.
Although I find ICE setup very good serious option is watercooling. Black ICE micro (80 mili version). New DD DDC-12V pump (or Swiftech MCP 350 or direct from their supplyer). For waterblocks one can use Koolance blocks. PIV 200 watt block is enough for almost all types of CPUs. PIV version will fit on PIV Shuttle mainboards and on anewer AMD mainboards with PIV retension socket. GPU waterblock can be Koolance to. Also for People that doo not mind having two boxes Exos is an option.
Only I like ICE so much and I find it more practical too. Alos almost no meintenance exepct dusting it of. With WC rig You will need to check fluid every six months. Also You will need to provide airflow in case if You are using Exos.
I hope this should be helpfull. If There is nothing new maybe atleast there is almost everything on one place.
MD