Recent content by titan97

If you haven’t already done so, swap the actual speakers (front to rear, rear to front) to confirm that the speakers themselves work. If all 4 speakers work, great. Move onto the next step. If a speaker doesn’t work then you’ll need to fix it. Then swap the 2 plugs going to your PC. Make sure...

When I go to register for an account, there is no option of USA in the location field. Oh well.

Looks like Amazon Gaming has a free gift bundle for this game, too.

This doesn't work for me. I get an error when I enter the discount code "This coupon is limited to selected referrers."

Yeah, me too. I was part of the [H]orde back in the late-2000s and early 2010's. I remember reading threads in the distributed computing subforum and thinking to myself, "Bitcoin? WTF is that? That will never work." Meanwhile, I will just donate my computing power to various projects because...

Are there any similar products to the ASUS Q538EI for the former price of $1200? My daughter has a 4-year-old Lenovo Flex 5 that is pretty beaten up and needs to be replaced. She's a mobile digital artist, so several things are important to her. Her current Lenovo has a 4K IPS touchscreen...

new2019 used to have a thread where he sold Office 2019 keys, but it was locked a few days ago and he hasn't responded to the admin. I bought a key from him in Dec but it stopped working last month when I went to reinstall my OS. In this case, I also need a new Office 2019 key.

I've found that taking the pots apart and cleaning them with electrical cleaner fixes all of my issues. No more crackling, no more weird volume jumps.

Did you get your meter and check C38? I would not replace it unless the capacitance results are bad. It sounds like Q1 is bad. With it being a direct short, it is allowing the full current coming from the I/O board to go to Q4 and into the transformer. Those components are most likely not rated...

You may want to test R5 and Q1. I believe that R5 controls the amount of power going to the gate of Q1. Q1 then sends power to the first set of windings in the transformer (coil 1-2), as well as turns on Q4. If R5 is blown (low ohms), then Q1 is pushing more power than it should down to Q4...

What are the ohms for each coil of the transformer? Test the primary and secondary windings. This part of the schematic begins to look Greek to me, since the various transistors and such are not something that I'm familiar with, so I'd rely on the internet on how to test the transformer and the...

It should be safe. You can check the voltage across the leads just to be sure.

I believe that the 156V is incorrect. If you rectify 120VAC, without any sort of step-up transformer, then 110VDC sounds about normal. That 110VDC then goes through two wires to the DC/DC converter board, where it is transformed into 30VDC and 60VDC. The 30V goes back to the I/O board. The 60V...

The R25 and C16 are marked on the schematic as DNI (do not insert or do not include), so they should be absent. To check capacitors, you have to desolder at least one lead and make sure that it does not contact the mounting hole. I normally just desolder both legs and remove the whole cap. Go...

I ended up using AnyTrans to download the last 12-months of texts, printed them to a PDF, and sent the lawyers 319 pages of dialog to sift through. Thanks [H]!