Recent content by RebornPhoenix

You should be fine but if you intend to leave it on during long periods of absence you should think about hardware water level, pump operation, flow level and temperature monitoring. All of these things with the exception of flow level are seriously easy to monitor with home made equipment and...

Also, I'm currently trying to design my own external WC system. The electronics are not a problem but fitting in a dual 120mm rad is proving to be difficult. My designs are all a bit too deep and the dual 120mm is not something I really want to compromise upon. I'm looking for rads that are as...

Correct me if I'm wrong but I think a radiator is designed to cool liquid whereas a heatercore is designed to heat air. In terms of performance I have heard so many conflicting opinions that I couldn't possibly pass judgement. Heatercores are most easily/cheaply available from car breakers (part...

Christ, I have no idea what I was talking about. I thought it was the -ol functional group that gave a high electrical conductivity but I'm obviously way off bat. Check this out for some conductivity values: http://www.smartmeasurement.com/en/wizards/flowmeter/flmtr_mag_conductivity.asp

I don't think this will make any difference at all. The relatively low temperature gain caused by the pump would still be present in the heat of the water coming out of the radiator as this is a closed loop system. Every test I have seen involving the order of components has come to the...

Wasn't really worring about the dust factor, you can always blast that out with canned air. A few years ago I saw a study on different ways of arranging the cooling in a PC and the results showed that negative pressure resulted in greater cooling. Of course it was just someone in the modding...

I like that radiator - where you get it? This should have been in the watercooling section -could a mod move it?

A sketch or pic would be a good idea. Negative pressure is good, so blow out more CFM than you are blowing in.

Plus with your current design you are blowing hot air from the top rad into the case. It will be blown out by the other rad's fan but you will experience high case temps and the second rad will have hot air blown through it making it very ineffective.

Alcohols are inherantly electrically conductive. Not a good choice ;)

Just about any motorcycle radiator will work perfectly. I have a copper radiator with a built in reservoir that will easily fit two 120mm fans and it only cost me £10 from a bike breakers. The connections require replacing before I can use it but it's going to be very simple to solder in barbs...

The chance of actually getting fully deionised water is very low. Research laboratories can produce it but they require a system called a polishing mixed bed. There is a very good article on the subject here: http://www.purite.co.uk/technical/CHARACTERISTICS_OF_DEIONISED_WATER.pdf Note that...

I'm not sure thats fair - look at the number of PC users that type their entire config into their sigs. That's a form of boasting. Only reason mines not there is I don't have a PC good enough to boast about ;)

Ambient temperature would be a problem especially if its a black radiator and its sunny. Some kind of replective shroud would be required. With fans I don't think any animals would come too close ;) I would recommend sucking through radiator rather than blowing so minced flies etc dont get stuck...

Looks to me like thats an 80mm fan hole in the front. Have you got one in the hole at the back? PSU should be fine, but if youn have the cash get a bigger one, its a bit on the small side considering your GFX and CPU.