42" OLED MASTER THREAD

Getting to know the C2. I'm using it right now for this. HDMI input 3 is set to PC and I have those settings on. I think that's done properly. VRR and all that is setup. Trying to figure out why/if I can get 120Hz because right now I can't. I'm using an EVGA RTX3080 SC3. I can't imagine it would matter which HDMI inputs and outputs I use respectively would it? I am using brand new HDMI 2.1 spec cables across the boards, too. Gorgeous TV.
right click your desktop and goto display settings and check the refresh rate there, as well as your nvidia control panel.
 
right click your desktop and goto display settings and check the refresh rate there, as well as your nvidia control panel.

Fixed. NV CP has TV resolutions first then PC resolutions. I'm good. Learning...tweaking...having fun... thanks for your all's patience. :)

EDIT: Setup and calibrating done for now. So far quite impressed. Now it just comes down to personal preference tweaks.
 
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Woot sells the C2 42" for $669. They are labeled refurbished but people have been receiving brand new TV's with the protective plastic still on the screen. Probably just damaged box returns or change of mind.
what is your source? have you buy from Woot before? what's their return policy
 
I bought from buydig on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/str/buydig

C2 42" was $679 refirb. they had free returns too, they have a 15% restocking fee but I wasn't charged. it was brand new as far as I could tell but I forgot to check the screen time.
 
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so what exactly is the deal w/ Woot? IF they are return items from amazon customers, then they won't be new. I'm missing something here
 
I've used HDTVTest (Vincent), Classy Calibrations, TFT Central, and RTings recommendations etc., and worked within the agreed consensus for respective settings and so far I must say I'm still pretty blown away by this. My room is probably ideal for OLED. I'm using Scenic Labs MediaLight Mk2 2 Meters and I'm not using the dimmer because it's perfect at full brightness.

I am not having a "not bright enough" issue at all in any situation. If anything I've had to tweak a few things down a little bit so far good start so far.

It's incredible to be able to buy something like this for under a grand.

EDIT: When I am using the TV and I turn something else on like the PS5 it automatically switched to that input and interrupted me. I'll be darned if I can find a way to disable auto HDMI switch. Anyone?
 
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so what exactly is the deal w/ Woot? IF they are return items from amazon customers, then they won't be new. I'm missing something here
What you're missing is that people return/reject delivery of unopened TV's due to changing their mind or they see a hole in the box when it arrives at their door. It doesn't guarantee you'll get a brand new TV at all. I know someone who ordered one that is suppose to receive it today so I'll update with what condition its in soon as he tells me.
 
I've had the TV since late Tuesday and have gone along quite nicely with it. PC use, gaming use, movies, and so on.

Today while playing Hogwarts I suddenly the screen interrupt with "invalid format" out of nowhere in mid game. Switching inputs didn't fix it so I had to take the HDMI cable out, wait a few moments, and then put it back in. When I did the HDMI that the PC is assigned to "reset" itself and I had to go into edit and name it "PC" again. Thankfully all my settings were there.

It's the first time it's happened in probably north of a dozen hours or so of use. HDMI 2.1 cables are brand new. I can update GPU drivers for grins if I can find any and my settings are based on TFT Central's video for this TV.

I did a search for "LG C2 invalid format" and some of the hits I got were troubling.

Any ideas? Am I on a countdown to trouble here? I sure hope not. I'm pretty blown away by this thing and would be sad to give it up at this point.
 
I've had the TV since late Tuesday and have gone along quite nicely with it. PC use, gaming use, movies, and so on.

Today while playing Hogwarts I suddenly the screen interrupt with "invalid format" out of nowhere in mid game. Switching inputs didn't fix it so I had to take the HDMI cable out, wait a few moments, and then put it back in. When I did the HDMI that the PC is assigned to "reset" itself and I had to go into edit and name it "PC" again. Thankfully all my settings were there.

It's the first time it's happened in probably north of a dozen hours or so of use. HDMI 2.1 cables are brand new. I can update GPU drivers for grins if I can find any and my settings are based on TFT Central's video for this TV.

I did a search for "LG C2 invalid format" and some of the hits I got were troubling.

Any ideas? Am I on a countdown to trouble here? I sure hope not. I'm pretty blown away by this thing and would be sad to give it up at this point.
Had mine since just before Christmas and no problems yet. Using a 4080.
 
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could it be interference from elsewhere? Does both end of the HDMI cable has the ferrite choke on it
 
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Had mine since just before Christmas and no problems yet. Using a 4080.
Same - have never had that issue on my 48CX or my 42C2 in the other room. I'm currently using a 3090. Have a 4090 coming on Monday but I don't expect any issues. I'm not even using an "official" HDMI 2.1 cable, either. These sets are the bomb.
 
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could it be interference from elsewhere? Does both end of the HDMI cable has the ferrite choke on it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X6VZSH3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I'm using these. Really solid. It only happened once so I'm not hitting the panic button yet. I'm just aware of it and I'm hoping nothing comes of it.

I asked TFT Central about this in their Youtube video comments area and they said:

It’s prob more likely to be a one off bug with graphics card / game than anything else. I wouldn’t be worried yet. Obv if it keeps happening it’s prob more of a concern but I’d say it’s prob still unlikely to be the tv.



Same - have never had that issue on my 48CX or my 42C2 in the other room. I'm currently using a 3090. Have a 4090 coming on Monday but I don't expect any issues. I'm not even using an "official" HDMI 2.1 cable, either. These sets are the bomb.

I'm pretty blown away in every respect.
 
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Woot sells the C2 42" for $669. They are labeled refurbished but people have been receiving brand new TV's with the protective plastic still on the screen. Probably just damaged box returns or change of mind.
for those like you who uses Woot, is there a way to key in a search word and let the sys. inform me if an item is available? So I don't have to go in daily and check?
 
I've been looking around, yet I've not been very successful in finding out some info that folks here might be able to point me to.

Random folks on reddit seem to think that taking 12 bit signal from a GPU and pumping it into (for example) an LG C2 looks better than a 10 bit signal. The panel is 10 bit, so the TV downsamples to 10 bit. Are they smoking something, or is there an actual, tangible benefit in having the TV downsample a 12 bit signal into 10 bit?
 
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Have we confirmed that the 42" C3 will be getting MLA?
Really hoping LG is not reserving MLA for only the 55", 65", and 77".
 
I've been looking around, yet I've not been very successful in finding out some info that folks here might be able to point me to.

Random folks on reddit seem to think that taking 12 bit signal from a GPU and pumping it into (for example) an LG C2 looks better than a 10 bit signal. The panel is 10 bit, so the TV downsamples to 10 bit. Are they smoking something, or is there an actual, tangible benefit in having the TV downsample a 12 bit signal into 10 bit?

I don't think it's known how it actulaly uses 12 bit data. If it converts it to 10 bit data before doing processing it would not make it better, it could actually make it worse depending on how it converts from 12 to 10 bit.

But assuming the prcoessing actually uses the 12 bit data and doesn't convert it to 10 bit before it does processing. It could potentially do some processing where using a 12 bit signal gives it a more accurate picture for the end 10 bit result. For example scaling 1080p to 4k or motion smoothing frames.

If you're using it as a monitor you probably have all that processing turned off though.

I haven't heard anyone actually doing tests proving it makes a difference. And even if it did make a difference, you probably wouldn't be able to tell.
 
I don't think it's known how it actulaly uses 12 bit data. If it converts it to 10 bit data before doing processing it would not make it better, it could actually make it worse depending on how it converts from 12 to 10 bit.

But assuming the prcoessing actually uses the 12 bit data and doesn't convert it to 10 bit before it does processing. It could potentially do some processing where using a 12 bit signal gives it a more accurate picture for the end 10 bit result. For example scaling 1080p to 4k or motion smoothing frames.

If you're using it as a monitor you probably have all that processing turned off though.

I haven't heard anyone actually doing tests proving it makes a difference. And even if it did make a difference, you probably wouldn't be able to tell.
I did find a spec sheet (dang if I can find it again) that showed that it would downsample 12 bit input to 10 bit for the 10 bit panel. But as to testing or some reputable review site stating or showing that a 12 bit signal gains nothing on a 10 bit panel? Nothing. And yes, these individuals were using a C2 as a PC monitor.

It's going to be some time (hopefully) before I need to replace my gorgeous LG CX (only allows for 10 bit max with my preferred 4K RGB full dynamic range settings), so I won't be able to test it for myself.
 
I did find a spec sheet (dang if I can find it again) that showed that it would downsample 12 bit input to 10 bit for the 10 bit panel. But as to testing or some reputable review site stating or showing that a 12 bit signal gains nothing on a 10 bit panel? Nothing. And yes, these individuals were using a C2 as a PC monitor.

It's going to be some time (hopefully) before I need to replace my gorgeous LG CX (only allows for 10 bit max with my preferred 4K RGB full dynamic range settings), so I won't be able to test it for myself.

Yes it for sure downsamples, otherwise it wouldn't even be able to use the signal. The part that matters is if it downsamples before or after it does the processing.
 
so it's been another few months for those who uses Asus and the LG. I really wonder why such a huge difference on price since it's the same panel. How many LG C2 owners are in this thread? Is there an update on anything that you people are not happy with?

And for those who owns Asus, what do you gain from the LG owners?
 
I've had my LG C2 4k 42inch since December. Very impressed and happy with it. I came from a 2560x1080p set up though so obviously its a huge difference for me. No complaints yet.
 
Especially so for 42" and 48" which seems to basically be the same as the C2.
C3 will probably cost more than the C2 as well with no benefit. I have had my C2 for a few months now and have put over a 1,000 hours on it for work and gaming, best monitor I have had yet.
 
All C2 owners will naturally have to buy C3s as their sets burn in, as some insist on parroting around this forum. So it's a forced upgrade whether you want it or not. :greedy: /s
 
So, is it confirmed that the 42" C2 will basically be the same as the 42" C3 besides some where minor changes, especially when used as a PC monitor?
 
For first time buyers I'd say when it comes to the choice of getting a C2 or the C3 in the 42" is get which one is most available and cheaper. There doesn't seem to be much of a difference in the two models. Unless LG sneaks something in on the C3 we dont know about?
 
Checking in again if anyone is keeping the auto dimming on. I did not disable ASBL on my C2 42 because I think it may help prevent image retention (IR) and burn in. If leaving it on has very little or no effect on IR or burn in then let me know and I'll disable it with a service remote. Or maybe even without a service remote. I play pc games and use the desktop for movie streaming and net browsing.

Leaving ASBL on does interrupt the immersion in pc games for me when I'm stationary & staring at a beautiful landscape. But at least I can just hit a certain key or maybe even just move the mouse to restore the brightness & clarity.

Oh and I'm assuming if you're moving around a lot with your character in a game with auto dimming on then the screen will never auto dim as long as you keep moving. Or maybe there's more to it like how much or how fast or slowing you move about in a game that could trigger the dimming to go on. Btw great image quality for games and videos on the C2 42.
 
Checking in again if anyone is keeping the auto dimming on. I did not disable ASBL on my C2 42 because I think it may help prevent image retention (IR) and burn in. If leaving it on has very little or no effect on IR or burn in then let me know and I'll disable it with a service remote. Or maybe even without a service remote. I play pc games and use the desktop for movie streaming and net browsing.

Leaving ASBL on does interrupt the immersion in pc games for me when I'm stationary & staring at a beautiful landscape. But at least I can just hit a certain key or maybe even just move the mouse to restore the brightness & clarity.

Oh and I'm assuming if you're moving around a lot with your character in a game with auto dimming on then the screen will never auto dim as long as you keep moving. Or maybe there's more to it like how much or how fast or slowing you move about in a game that could trigger the dimming to go on. Btw great image quality for games and videos on the C2 42.
Glad you're enjoying it!

I disabled mine months ago. No ill effects so far. YMMV depending on how you use it ( the usual caveats apply ) but I'm not worried about it.

Several of us have disabled it and at least speaking for myself, I haven't read or seen any regrets about it nor any reports of burn-in or noticeably increased wear.
 
Checking in again if anyone is keeping the auto dimming on. I did not disable ASBL on my C2 42 because I think it may help prevent image retention (IR) and burn in. If leaving it on has very little or no effect on IR or burn in then let me know and I'll disable it with a service remote. Or maybe even without a service remote. I play pc games and use the desktop for movie streaming and net browsing.

Leaving ASBL on does interrupt the immersion in pc games for me when I'm stationary & staring at a beautiful landscape. But at least I can just hit a certain key or maybe even just move the mouse to restore the brightness & clarity.

Oh and I'm assuming if you're moving around a lot with your character in a game with auto dimming on then the screen will never auto dim as long as you keep moving. Or maybe there's more to it like how much or how fast or slowing you move about in a game that could trigger the dimming to go on. Btw great image quality for games and videos on the C2 42.

I leave autodimming on my CX 48. I've never seen it kick in on a game or video. I'm not one to just sit there staring in a game though.
 
I leave autodimming on my CX 48. I've never seen it kick in on a game or video. I'm not one to just sit there staring in a game though.

ASBL typically doesn't kick in during games or videos, it mostly kicks in when you are doing desktop work and the overall picture on screen isn't changing much.
 
ASBL typically doesn't kick in during games or videos, it mostly kicks in when you are doing desktop work and the overall picture on screen isn't changing much.
Yeah, the other guy was asking about games.

It does kick in when I do desktop stuff and just stop doing anything for a while. As designed, and I do actually want it to do that to prevent burn in.
 
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