LG Ultragear 27" OLED 240hz 1440P 27GR95QE-B

I'm wondering if this monitor will be comfortable for gaming. Usually don't game on my work days due to eyestrain. Right now I'm at work and I don't feel like I got blasted by it like a regular IPS. Planning on keeping HDR off off though.

Most of my time is in SDR; that said, I haven't had much eyestrain in either SDR or HDR and it's among the easiest monitors on my eyes, even for work. I'll be curious your impressions as you work with it more.
 
It might not be the most visible thing at all times but as soon as it is its terrible. You can have game with nice black with giant bright bands around edges of barely brighter than black things eg. smoke completely ruining the scene.
The same band is also visible in any situation there is dark gradient which is changing. Also visible on edges of objects in dark scenes eg. faces.

I've been trying to find a test pattern to be able to see this, and I just haven't had any luck - the few I've found don't seem to exhibit anything weird to me. I'm surprised if it's an issue that it hasn't appeared in something like Dead Space since it's very dark in that game and you have a flashlight you can swing around. I'm not saying it's not an issue; I just haven't noticed it yet if it is. (Either way, I think I'd probably take something rarer over blooming for my uses, but I'm hoping it's not too much of an issue).
 
I have the Acer Predator XB271HU bmiprz 27" WQHD (2560x1440) NVIDIA G-SYNC IPS Monitor. However on amazon its a bit confusing because there are two models one is 280 another 480. I know of have the best possible version of it. However, Im wondering if OLED is a huge step up from this monitor or what is the next huge step from this monitor? I normally only upgrade when there is new tech that makes a huge difference and need the gysnc, with the ips color
 
Picked up a LG universal remote on ebay for 5.00 hope it works as a backup it has arrow keys and a back button think it's the only thing I need.
Really is a shame the buttons are limited on the display for calibration I sometimes need to adjust stuff in game.

Noticed my monitor make a very very faint buzzing sound at first I thought it was the speakers just think it's the power in the back of the panel.
 
I've been trying to find a test pattern to be able to see this, and I just haven't had any luck - the few I've found don't seem to exhibit anything weird to me. I'm surprised if it's an issue that it hasn't appeared in something like Dead Space since it's very dark in that game and you have a flashlight you can swing around. I'm not saying it's not an issue; I just haven't noticed it yet if it is. (Either way, I think I'd probably take something rarer over blooming for my uses, but I'm hoping it's not too much of an issue).
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gradient.php and move test image left and right. If its not super clear then lower brightness to lower values.

I am not 100% sure this model has this issue or not but there is very little technical reason to assume why it shouldn't.
Then its up to good people to test it and give honest results. Not like "its all good, amazing colors and you should buy one... or three" kind of user reviews which end up in people returning badly engineered products they should not buy in the first place :)
 
WOW didn't notice the extra presets below if you scroll down some of those are actually nice.
Color Weakness is really nice the stuff on the screen doesn't all stand out and it's like a pastel type of screen.
Changed scaling to 150% in Windows.
 
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Picked up a LG universal remote on ebay for 5.00 hope it works as a backup it has arrow keys and a back button think it's the only thing I need.
Really is a shame the buttons are limited on the display for calibration I sometimes need to adjust stuff in game.

Noticed my monitor make a very very faint buzzing sound at first I thought it was the speakers just think it's the power in the back of the panel.

Could it be the fan?
 
I didn't even know this monitor had a fan I guess that could be it I know the Asus version has a Heatsink.
 
I honestly never noticed the buzzing but if I put my ear right next to it I can maybe here the fan! That's news to me too. lol.
 
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gradient.php and move test image left and right. If its not super clear then lower brightness to lower values.
What model are you testing?

I don't see the issue on my 45 inch 240Hz OLED specimen at 0% brightness nor 100% brightness, and I've seen WAY more artifacts when dragging the window on this specific test on TN panels (FRC contouring). Every single panel technology have their pros/cons.

Can you define specific test parameters that maximizes this issue that you are describing? SDR or HDR? Presets? Etc? Perhaps the 45 incher behaves different from the 27 in incher. I ask because I think I should create a TestUFO for that -- A horizontally panning gradient pattern. This would help the OLED manufacturers. Anything that can help OLED improvement. I have a TestUFO HDR prototype in the works (works in certain beta browsers).

Also, about text clarity -- take a look at the fringing thread, and the solutions that are being worked on.

Disclosure: I'm currently hired on contract basis to work on OLEDs
 
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WOW didn't notice the extra presets below if you scroll down some of those are actually nice.
Color Weakness is really nice the stuff on the screen doesn't all stand out and it's like a pastel type of screen.
Changed scaling to 150% in Windows.

I think the Color Weakness is actually for certain color-blindness type issues, but it's definitely neat they included that mode. Yeah the presets are nice. I was also surprised (once I got my hands on a colorimeter) how easy it was to step through (and also how close the sRGB got out of the box).

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gradient.php and move test image left and right. If its not super clear then lower brightness to lower values.

I am not 100% sure this model has this issue or not but there is very little technical reason to assume why it shouldn't.
Then its up to good people to test it and give honest results. Not like "its all good, amazing colors and you should buy one... or three" kind of user reviews which end up in people returning badly engineered products they should not buy in the first place :)

I tried it and I see a little bit of the shifting for the black and white sections if I move it quickly, but I tried the same thing on my laptop (which uses a traditional LCD) and it did the same thing, so I don't think that's what you mean, and I'm honestly not sure what I'm looking for. Didn't try adjusting brightness because this is where I keep brightness (and HDR brightness is higher), so there'd be no point if I can't see it at this brightness as it shouldn't really ever be set any dimmer in real-world use.

I'm just reporting my real-world experience being overall very pleasant. There is no doubt this, and any monitor, has its flaws. But overall I'm really enjoying it and think it was a good choice for me.
 
What model are you testing?
Some displays - not only WOLED - have issues changing some colors in to other simlar brighter/darker colors because either its how tech works (eg. plasma) or how manufacturer screwed things up by trying to fix something which would be a lesser issue. In the last case I mean it happens that manufacturer implements pixel overdrive of sorts that overshoots target pixel color causing false contouring issue.

This is exactly what many WOLED displays suffer from and what moving gradient around the screen can reveal.
In this case issue happens when changing from near black to very dark colors. Because OLEDs are better/faster at dimming down overdrive impulse is used which overshoots target luminance and then come down to target color.

I don't see the issue on my 45 inch 240Hz OLED specimen at 0% brightness nor 100% brightness, and I've seen WAY more artifacts when dragging the window on this specific test on TN panels (FRC contouring). Every single panel technology have their pros/cons.
I complain about this overdrive thing, especially in LG 48GQ900 topic BUT truth be told its not the worst false contouring I experienced. More like the display otherwise (at least if it gets good panel without uniformity issues...) looks flawless... except they should add dithering to have better gradation at lower brightness levels but that is beside the point ;) Anyways, there it seems W subpixels when they start lighting up will have constant flash and dependng on what is displayed it can be much brighter than surrouding colors - if you display gradient which is moving in the direction of darker colors then you can clearly see that flash. If gradient is horizontal its vertical line.

Can you define specific test parameters that maximizes this issue that you are describing? SDR or HDR? Presets? Etc? Perhaps the 45 incher behaves different from the 27 in incher. I ask because I think I should create a TestUFO for that -- A horizontally panning gradient pattern. This would help the OLED manufacturers. Anything that can help OLED improvement. I have a TestUFO HDR prototype in the works (works in certain beta browsers).
No HDR is needed for that. In fact because this sudden color flash is pretty much constant brightness and happens in panel itself it is much more visible when your brightness it tuned way down.
On my affected screen I didn't realize its there when using it at high brightness until I stumbled in to the game which had perfect 'test pattern' for this issue to show up - it was of course gradient on black background where I could move it on the screen by moving camera.

I didn't say this 27 inch monitor has the issue - we just won't know if someone doesn't test it and says how it is for each model. It is also hard to pick up on camera (at last my phone camera...).
LG doesn't seem to implement their own panels the best way and is known to have this issue on at least one monitor released at similar time so I assume that to some point this 27" monitor might be affected too. Whether its an issue or not depends. I was yesterday trying really hard to spot the issue on my 48GQ900 when watching movie at 100% brightness and I was not able to. Even paused it and checked frames when I saw something which might be it but I didn't find any offending moment. Instances I found which showed the issue when I was using monitor at 20 to even 0 brightness didn't really show it the same offending way at 100 brightness... so the mileage of how it affects even given model vary with brightness used a lot.
And of course if this flash I mentioned was even tiny bit smaller it would make it exponentially less visible.

The issue as you might have already figured is lack of proper test. Should you add such test where its like moving photo test but with gradient moving in the direction which is known to cause issues and added some description what the test is about then it would be great tool for everyone to use. In the end the goal is to force visibility of this issue to manufacturers so they do something about it. And sure, some things cannot be fixed but here at least there is very little technical reasons to believe engineers wouldn't be able to tweak display driver to minimize if not eliminate it - though that said it is unclear if engineers would be able to fix affected displays with firmware fixes. Definitely they should not ignore it at the time of developing drivers of their panels and include mitigation from the beginning.

Also, about text clarity -- take a look at the fringing thread, and the solutions that are being worked on.
I use MacType with modified iOS preset with subpixel font rendering disabled so text looks as good as it gets. In fact personally I think it looks better on this monitor with this solution than default ClearType on RGB screen.
Unfortunately easy as it is to install MacType it is not the best solution for everyone. In fact since this program can only replace GDI rendering and some modern programs like web browsers use DirectWrite for text it doesn't work everywhere. I use web browsers with GDI rendering just to be able to use MacType with them. That said I do that not because of WOLED but because its just much nicer text rendering overall, without the so called 'hinting' and as name of program and preset I use suggests much more similar to how Apple products render text - though even better than these products.

All in all I do not suffer text rendering issues as much as other people who use WOLED/QD-OLED monitors without RGB subpixels.
BTW. There is option to tweak DirectWrite text too in MacType and it might be possible to disable subpixel rendering in non-GDI programs but I have not investigated this functionality yet... kinda because all programs I normally use do support GDI rendering.

Can you point me to where your solution is discussed?

Disclosure: I'm currently hired on contract basis to work on OLEDs
Sounds great.
What I would like from motion blur point of view is proper BFI working with VRR. Having BFI at constant refresh rate is better than not having option at all BUT actually can be more irritating because at times it gives user choice where no matter what they choose they must compromise. For example do I play PS5 game with BFI or VRR if game 'mostly' runs at 60fps bt has dips in to 50s?
Especially since OLEDs use 50 duty cycle and half their maximum brightness its really big compromise to loose advantages of VRR (read: smootchness at all times and in some cases input lag - when framerate dips below refresh rate) just to get still non-perfect motion clarity.
...but you know all of it much better than I do. I am sure if you had your way we would at the very least get VRR-like functionality with constant strobing and idealy proper VRR with ability to tweak brightness by using duty cycle ; )
 
I guess I'm using HDR afterall I can turn down my Nvidia control panel settings just a notch and HDR in Deadspace remake is pretty amazing then.
I didn't like it at first because the contrast was too great too bright in spots and too dark in other spots but it really makes stuff jump off the screen.
I'm still trying to get used to the monitor having some eye issues at work I think it's just like breaking in a new pair of glasses I'll get used to it eventually.
I got a screenshot of the Win Alt B shortcut that Blur Buster Chief pointed out so I don't forget it.

HDR in Hogwarts looks amazing and so does Darktide but couldn't find a game so I didn't start one. I never owned a monitor with HDR so this is a real treat in no way is the monitor too dark if anything it's too bright with HDR 100 percent and Nvidia setting at default so I have Nvidias gamma down to 80 and 50B 45C.
 
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Also, about text clarity -- take a look at the fringing thread, and the solutions that are being worked on.

What text clarity or fringing? 🙃
20230221_153756[1].jpg



With MacType everything looks as lovely as on old CRT powered eMac and readable from the other part of the room without need for any scaling 🤩
 
I tried it and I see a little bit of the shifting for the black and white sections if I move it quickly, but I tried the same thing on my laptop (which uses a traditional LCD) and it did the same thing, so I don't think that's what you mean, and I'm honestly not sure what I'm looking for. Didn't try adjusting brightness because this is where I keep brightness (and HDR brightness is higher), so there'd be no point if I can't see it at this brightness as it shouldn't really ever be set any dimmer in real-world use.

I'm just reporting my real-world experience being overall very pleasant. There is no doubt this, and any monitor, has its flaws. But overall I'm really enjoying it and think it was a good choice for me.
You might actually have a good point there - why worry about flaws at settings which are not those which you would want to use...

I myself noticed this near black overshoot issue at "manual burn-in prevention" settings like lowered brightness and at settings I actually like image the most (read 100% brightness and maybe even in "vivid" mode...) its really hard to spot even in perfect cases where such issue can be observed and in 99.99% other cases not visible at all..

BTW. Since you got the monitor you might check and maybe try something: on LG 48gq900 default contrast is 60 but actual contrast that is 100% and does not cause any clipping is 70 ! It might be the same for LG 27gr95qe and so you might get extra brightness if that is the case.

To check clipping you can use this image http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/white.php
On my monitor as soon as I hit contrast 71 it obviously starts clipping and white background stops becoming brighter so its 70 which is true limit.
Same image can be used on any monitor to find proper contrast setting as like in case of 48gq900 some other monitors also have default contrast incorrectly configured... though in this case LG might have just lowered contrast a little on purpose.

BTW2. On my monitor in HDR there is less auto-dimming than in SDR. For example no auto-dimming of full white screen. It might be some kind of solution to this issue if your monitor behaves similarly. That said I prefer SDR mode and it seems its best to enable HDR only for games and only for those which actually look better in HDR mode which is not given.
 
I guess I'm using HDR afterall I can turn down my Nvidia control panel settings just a notch and HDR in Deadspace remake is pretty amazing then.
I didn't like it at first because the contrast was too great too bright in spots and too dark in other spots but it really makes stuff jump off the screen.
I'm still trying to get used to the monitor having some eye issues at work I think it's just like breaking in a new pair of glasses I'll get used to it eventually.
I got a screenshot of the Win Alt B shortcut that Blur Buster Chief pointed out so I don't forget it.

HDR in Hogwarts looks amazing and so does Darktide but couldn't find a game so I didn't start one. I never owned a monitor with HDR so this is a real treat in no way is the monitor too dark if anything it's too bright with HDR 100 percent and Nvidia setting at default so I have Nvidias gamma down to 80 and 50B 45C.

HDR can be really amazing; it does take some getting used to though! The HDR in Dead Space looks great to me, but it does take a bit of getting used to because there's so much contrast! Neat that you dialed in some settings that made it more appealing to you.

I started Atomic Heart last night, which doesn't support HDR as of now (I guess you can sort of enabled it in the .ini settings but I'll wait to see if they're official support), but it still looked fantastic. It looked downright beautiful, actually. There are some really bright scenes, and I was surprised that I simply could not trigger any noticeable ABL at all. (This is in the Calibrated mode that was calibrated to sRGB and I use for prettymuch everything SDR-related).
 
You might actually have a good point there - why worry about flaws at settings which are not those which you would want to use...

I myself noticed this near black overshoot issue at "manual burn-in prevention" settings like lowered brightness and at settings I actually like image the most (read 100% brightness and maybe even in "vivid" mode...) its really hard to spot even in perfect cases where such issue can be observed and in 99.99% other cases not visible at all..

BTW. Since you got the monitor you might check and maybe try something: on LG 48gq900 default contrast is 60 but actual contrast that is 100% and does not cause any clipping is 70 ! It might be the same for LG 27gr95qe and so you might get extra brightness if that is the case.

To check clipping you can use this image http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/white.php
On my monitor as soon as I hit contrast 71 it obviously starts clipping and white background stops becoming brighter so its 70 which is true limit.
Same image can be used on any monitor to find proper contrast setting as like in case of 48gq900 some other monitors also have default contrast incorrectly configured... though in this case LG might have just lowered contrast a little on purpose.

BTW2. On my monitor in HDR there is less auto-dimming than in SDR. For example no auto-dimming of full white screen. It might be some kind of solution to this issue if your monitor behaves similarly. That said I prefer SDR mode and it seems its best to enable HDR only for games and only for those which actually look better in HDR mode which is not given.

Yeah - flaws definitely matter, but if it only occurs in conditions I'll never see, they're more academic than practical, so I try not to worry about them. It is an interesting phenomenon for sure, though.

I did check - sRGB mode defaults to 70 for contrast, and it doesn't show for Calibration 1 where I calibrated to sRGB, but the Onscreen Control does show a value, and that's 70 also.
Interestingly, in HDR, Gamer 1 is 60 and Gamer 2 is 55 and they are not modifiable (again, seen through Onscreen Control - you can try to change them but it won't stick)>

I looked at those patterns and it's very difficult to see squares on the brightest (and I tried the dark one too; likewise with the darkest) but I think I can JUST notice it, so I think it's where it should be.

It does seem like Gamer mode in HDR dims a *little* but it's not at all dramatic, much less so than most SDR modes. (I tested this by creating a full-white window, and expanding it to fill the screen, then reducing it to see if it brightened). Interestingly, Gamer mode in SDR doesn't dim at all, but it seems like it's the exception. All other SDR modes seem to dim (including the Calibration mode).

That said, I have yet to notice, in SDR or HDR games, any dimming behavior - either it's so subtle I haven't been able to see it or something about the game prevents it from having to happen. I was very surprised given some of the bright scenes in Atomic Heart I didn't notice at least a little.
 
What text clarity or fringing? 🙃
Text clarity (aka better ClearType) and yellow fringing. Both are actually related.
https://hardforum.com/threads/oled-yellow-vertical-edge-artifacts.2025040/

I can't disclose further yet due to my NDA, but you can deduce some of it by reading that fringing thread. You'll be surprised at what I discovered can be done with the existing pixel structure, with my Blur Busters brilliance -- I've worked on variants of subpixel rendering for 20 years.

And excellent photograph -- that's exactly what I wanted. I'm unable to reproduce on my OLED as the overdrive is tuned very differently on my DVT prototype.

I will begin trying to create a test pattern that amplifies this behavior (to try and make it visible on bigger numbers of OLEDs).

*** EDIT TO ADD MORE INFO ***

Note: All the below is based on public information. It's an oversimplification, but in a nutshell, if you at least graduated High School electricity class, you'll understand at least some of the below.

OLED panels also use some overdrive algorithms, but they can be tuned (although not visible to end user menus).

Let's remember.... digital screens are giant ICs nowadays (either lithographed or printed ICs) due to their active matrix transistor fabrication, often at two or more transistors per subpixel. Trying to drive massive amounts of electricity down tiny microwire grids sometimes a billion micrometers down the screen panels. OLED pixels require massive amounts more electricity than LCD pixels -- several orders of magnitude more, like powering a candle versus a searchlight. Realtime voltage/amperage modulation to compensate for everything (current power load on the row-addressor from adjacent pixels, combined with microwire distances) is the norm by emissive panel manufacturers nowadays, regardless of low-voltage emissive tech (OLED uLED, etc). Artifacts are unavoidable when Ohm's Law (E=IR) at low-voltage at high power over a long microwire, with totally different different numbers for the leftmost pixel versus rightmost pixel, and for topmost pixel versus bottommost pixel. Tricks like realtime current compensated / voltage gradients (on a per pixel basis) are utilized by all MicroLED / OLED manufacturers to compensate for this. Panels pull off so many engineering miracles to avoid crosstalk (streaking or darkfield noise/banding effects or weird row-specific dimmings, turning it all into global dimming instead of weird 1980s-TN-LCD-rainstorm-streaky look), but you can only polish the law of physics as much as you can.

Any OLED, both Samsung and LG, are fighting a gigantic engineering battle, in a matter of speaking.

Panel imperfections, alas, are going to continue for MicroLED, MiniLED, WOLED, QD-OLED, to varying extents, etc. How visible it becomes depends on a horrendous large number of things. Flaws are pick poison effects. You fix one flaw, it creates a side-effect flaw (sometimes not discovered for weeks). It's not very difficult for OLEDs to out-fix most LCD flaws, though well-tuned strobed LCD still has the upper hand in motion blur due to shorter pulse width capability.
 
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Hogwarts Legacy has one of the some of the most complex HDR sliders I ever seen in a game you can change the white point and black levels but didn't post a screenshot cause I'm in a gloomy part of the game indoors.
 
Nice! Yeah - Cyberpunk 2077 has similar settings; a bunch you can adjust. I ended up looking up a guide to help me figure it out. It's nice that you can kind of tailor it to your display type tho'!
 
Microsoft made ClearType for RGB and it shows when trying to use it with anything else. There should be more configuration options and ability to configure custom subpixel structures, also including automatically switching for vertical subpixels when display is rotated.There should also be non-subpixel grayscale fallback. Once you rotate your RGB display its nice text rendering becomes a mess comparable to how it looks on WOLED.

Apple' OSX has an edge here with their grayscale non-subpixel option which will look good on any non-standard display. Its similar actually to what I did with MacType and it looks very good. For reference with RGB panel Mactype looks perfect and ClearType looks meh..

I looked at those patterns and it's very difficult to see squares on the brightest (and I tried the dark one too; likewise with the darkest) but I think I can JUST notice it, so I think it's where it should be.
Exactly. 254 should be very hard to see on white (255) background.

On 48gq900 contrast defaults to 60 in all modes and in all SDR modes can be changed.
Also in SRGB it is possible to adjust whitepoint using RGB vaues which I find very nice. On 27gp900 I could not do that... at least using official methods.

BTW. Which calibration probe you used to color calibrate your OLED monitor?
Also would you say it did good job?
I tried obsolete i1 Display 2 I had on hand with LG 27gp950 but it produced unworkable results. Didn't try it on 48gq900 and I probably shouldn't... gotta get proper calibration probe for these monitors
 
Microsoft made ClearType for RGB and it shows when trying to use it with anything else. There should be more configuration options and ability to configure custom subpixel structures, also including automatically switching for vertical subpixels when display is rotated.There should also be non-subpixel grayscale fallback. Once you rotate your RGB display its nice text rendering becomes a mess comparable to how it looks on WOLED.

Apple' OSX has an edge here with their grayscale non-subpixel option which will look good on any non-standard display. Its similar actually to what I did with MacType and it looks very good. For reference with RGB panel Mactype looks perfect and ClearType looks meh..


Exactly. 254 should be very hard to see on white (255) background.

On 48gq900 contrast defaults to 60 in all modes and in all SDR modes can be changed.
Also in SRGB it is possible to adjust whitepoint using RGB vaues which I find very nice. On 27gp900 I could not do that... at least using official methods.

BTW. Which calibration probe you used to color calibrate your OLED monitor?
Also would you say it did good job?
I tried obsolete i1 Display 2 I had on hand with LG 27gp950 but it produced unworkable results. Didn't try it on 48gq900 and I probably shouldn't... gotta get proper calibration probe for these monitors

Yup - I think the blacks and whites are looking correct on those patterns.

I believe the probe I used was XRite i1 Display Pro Plus - I was able to borrow it since I don't have one here. I liked the results I got; I should say, though, I didn't use a more detailed calibration tool - I just ran it through the quick and dirty LG Calibration Studio, but I was happy with the results. Once nicety - once you calibrate one of the Calibration modes, it then lists the Brightness recommendation for the nits you set it to (you can deviate manually, but it'll always show "reference" value), the gamma setting, and the color temp (weirdly not color space).
 


Overall, a great review with some interesting information! (I still think text looks quite good but I've concluded I just must not be super sensitive to that.)
 
I couldn't find anything in the picture book instructions except the monitor weighs about 11lbs going to get a Vesa stand for this thing that will lower the monitor 3-4 inches for readablity.
I think it's a vesa monitor the back has screws in the back covers the holes so I hope the stand I bought off Amazon works with it. The stand it comes with is pretty good but it just doesn't go low evough for me I have about 5 1/2 inches of space on the bottom want it down to like 3" or just so the Audio aux cable fits in for the PS5 sound.

I was going to get a back up Displayport cable but reading the instructions says it might cause a malfunction I know that is hard to believe but it might.


Alot of the problems I see with Human Beings trying to adapt to oversize screens comes from how the eye looses it's ablity to track on the screen.
This might just be me but I see people buying these 87" inch TVs which is just a big hazing experiment if you ask me. I don't think the eye was meant to be pryed open for hours on end
and have some sort of comfort level afterwards or while binging on Netflix or whatever.
 
Microsoft made ClearType for RGB and it shows when trying to use it with anything else. There should be more configuration options and ability to configure custom subpixel structures, also including automatically switching for vertical subpixels when display is rotated.There should also be non-subpixel grayscale fallback. Once you rotate your RGB display its nice text rendering becomes a mess comparable to how it looks on WOLED.
Agreed.

Microsoft needs to make ClearType more compatible with nonstandard pixel structures. Nontheless, workarounds are in the works, though I can't say if it applies to current displays (firmware) or next display. In theory, a Windows indirect display driver (or a ReShade filter) could do a subpixel-aware downscaling of a higher resolution image to a subpixel-compensated lower resolution image. There are some tricky considerations like direct Windows control of the subpixels, but subpixel rendering can work on any pixel structure in theory -- as long as both ends are designed for it (display and OS).

Apple' OSX has an edge here with their grayscale non-subpixel option which will look good on any non-standard display. Its similar actually to what I did with MacType and it looks very good. For reference with RGB panel Mactype looks perfect and ClearType looks meh..
Apple's greyscale definitely looks better than Microsoft's greyscale, but if you display Apple vs Windows at the same low DPI (not the typical "Retina" mac screens) on the same display, for the same physical text sizes... then ClearType (on proper RGB or BGR displays) can look better.

For many (not all) people the Windows ClearType can look better on RGB LCDs than Mac grayscale on the same panels, if retuned by a ClearType Tuner. In apples-vs-apples (pun!) properly tuned ClearType outperforms both PC/Mac greyscale when PC/Mac is connected to the very exact same display in an A/B comparison.

Now that being said, greyscale mode is temporarily the best workaround for the moment, and for that, Mac on these OLEDs looks good.

It's a matter of personal preference whether you want subpixel rendering or not, but I really like subpixel rendering.
 
I believe the probe I used was XRite i1 Display Pro Plus - I was able to borrow it since I don't have one here. I liked the results I got; I should say, though, I didn't use a more detailed calibration tool - I just ran it through the quick and dirty LG Calibration Studio, but I was happy with the results. Once nicety - once you calibrate one of the Calibration modes, it then lists the Brightness recommendation for the nits you set it to (you can deviate manually, but it'll always show "reference" value), the gamma setting, and the color temp (weirdly not color space).
I bought this probe and just finished playing with it on LG 48GQ900 with very good results.

I have few reference monitors HP DreamColor LP2480zx and two different HP branded probes for them and today on OLED got pretty much identical whitepoint and RGB primaries. Full success. Now I only need to hardware calibrate LG 27GP950 and I am all set 😃

One thing I intend to do is to check measurements and recalibrate OLED form time to time eg. once in six months.
For IPS with W-LED backlight monitor its calibrate once and forget kind of thing but OLED might drift over time. At least whitepoint might drift.
 
Microsoft needs to make ClearType more compatible with nonstandard pixel structures. Nontheless, workarounds are in the works, though I can't say if it applies to current displays (firmware) or next display. In theory, a Windows indirect display driver (or a ReShade filter) could do a subpixel-aware downscaling of a higher resolution image to a subpixel-compensated lower resolution image. There are some tricky considerations like direct Windows control of the subpixels, but subpixel rendering can work on any pixel structure in theory -- as long as both ends are designed for it (display and OS).
Is it even possible to apply shaders for desktop in Windows?

Imho MacType solution is better...

Apple's greyscale definitely looks better than Microsoft's greyscale, but if you display Apple vs Windows at the same low DPI (not the typical "Retina" mac screens) on the same display, for the same physical text sizes... then ClearType (on proper RGB or BGR displays) can look better.

For many (not all) people the Windows ClearType can look better on RGB LCDs than Mac grayscale on the same panels, if retuned by a ClearType Tuner. In apples-vs-apples (pun!) properly tuned ClearType outperforms both PC/Mac greyscale when PC/Mac is connected to the very exact same display in an A/B comparison.
... unless someone wants hinting.
I saw OSX when playing with hackintoshes and its font rendering was the only thing I liked. On Vista on the other hand ClearType was atrocious and I hacked it out.
Then I found GDI++ and use it since then. Imean later there was ezgdi and now it is MacType - all use original GDI++ concept.

Now that being said, greyscale mode is temporarily the best workaround for the moment, and for that, Mac on these OLEDs looks good.
I use MacType and it covers most programs I use. Didn't really investigate issues in programs which use DirectWrite yet... and really text is visible so its not big issue. If I had color fringing in web browser or something then it would be an issue. MacType with disabled subpixel rendering looks like OSX rendering but even nicer.

It's a matter of personal preference whether you want subpixel rendering or not, but I really like subpixel rendering.
I would say its a matter of having it work properly. Obviously for most OLEDs it doesn't work correctly.
But even on RGB panels it is not guaranteed it works ideally because gamut correction like sRGB emulation will negatively affect subpixel rendering. In this case its usually such a minor issue it doesn't matter but still.
I too prefer subpixel rendering. I do not however like ClearType and its hinting ways...
 
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Confirmed any LG remote works with this monitor just picked up a LG remote from Walmart for 15.00 just press TV go Menu and you can select anything. Best part about it uses AAA batteries which I have rechargeable ones for. There were cheaper one they had ones that looked nicer like the Vizio ones. I suppose I could buy one of each take them back if they don't work.
 
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Above video takes it apart reason why I won't use the led lights just cheap strips like store bought colored led strips which are just nasty. Shows the fan inside too which is just noise but tolerable. Can't wait to get my Vesa stand.
 
Is it even possible to apply shaders for desktop in Windows?
Yes.

<Software Developer Technical>

AFAIK, SpecialK / ReShade / SweetFX / can hook into Windows and modify its screen, if you're running windowed or borderless windowed. Program your custom shader, even a ClearType-fixing shader if you want. Be noted, it can be tricky to reverse engineer whatever pixel processing the panel uses, and create custom distorted pixels to adapt rendering to a different pixel structure. Easiest may be a shader that accepts a bitmask of the pixel structure, and processes to its best ability while downscaling (e.g. 4K -> 1080p or 2880p->1440p). Use 200% DPI scaling. Then you ClearType everything to a custom pixel structure programmed in a shader.

DesktopBFI app uses a different technique that is not as reliable (unless Launch in Admin Mode -> Task Manager -> REALTIME PRIORITY) but a similar technique to that app can screencapture and realtime-reprocess for displaying on a 2nd screen, if you do the 2-screen technique (main display and pixel-reprocessed display).

A third technique is modifying Windows' DDK indirect display driver (normally for 60Hz USB displays) and creating a universal display filter. While the author of SpecialK and others are aiming to do something similar (within a few years probably), I am currently privately offering a 4-figure open source bounty for a display driver harness (MIT or Apache permissive license type) of a windows indirect display driver, because a Windows IDD can simulate VRR via my TestUFO interpolation algorithm on a non-VRR display in a similar manner to www.testufo.com/vrr -- as well as doing BFI much more reliably than the current open source DesktopBFI -- Or doing software-based LCD overdrive superior to the scaler/TCON LCD overdrive. And, if you would like to modify the Windows DDK and collect an open source bounty, send me an email to mark [at] blurbusters.com ...

Note: Software overdrive, aka ATI Radeon Overdrive from 20 years ago, is simple. But you can do better than the display hardware by having your own display-lottery-specific overdrive lookup table specific for your display. Attach an Arduino photodiode tester, measure all the GtG's for all 65536-256 transitions (65280), math the correct overdrive lookup table into a 64 kilobyte LUT, and use a shader to A(B)=C in realtime every refresh cycle, independent of framerate, where A=orig subpixel intensity, B=dest subpixel intensity, and C=overdrive subpixel intensity to intentionally speedup or slowdown A->B pixel transition. (That's all overdrive is, color intensity maps to voltages, so you can do it in 100% shader), though slownes occurs at near fullblacks and near fullwhites, due to lack of overdrive overshoot headroom -- which is why ghosting occurs more often in nearblacks and nearwhites).

The same shader-plugin-capable windows indirect display driver would be able to also do custom subpixel systems via downscaling technique. Ideally it should be done at display firmware level, but at least there's a software route possible and I've posted a lot about this in the "Laboratory" section of Blur Busters Forums. It's also linked from the purple Research tab of the main website (also links to my 25 peer reviewed paper citations).

There are many open source software packages that you may be able to modify with a custom shader. Be noted limited control is available through standard means to directly control the white pixel, but you can at least control a lot of subpixels in a way similar to the other forum thread, and solve a hell lot of color fringing problems in pure software means through any of these 3 techniques:

1. frame injection hook to Present()
2. screenshot every refresh cycle, reprocess and display on 2nd screen, OR
3. windows indirect display driver (harder to debug, needs EV code signing cert to redistribute)

And if any of you do that, then please post on Blur Busters Forums' "Area 51 Display Science, Research & Engineering" near the bottom of the main forums screen if you create such an open source package, as Blur Busters definitely welcome such stuff! As I've worked on subpixel rendering algorithms for 20 years off and on, I'm loving user contributions that may compensate for panel firmware limitations.

Getting familiar with Direct 3D Kernel Mode Thunk (D3DKMT APIs) is quite useful, if doing approach (1) (2), because of all the userspace-level hooks possible, including VSYNC hooks and raster interrupt style scanline hooks! (The Tearline Jedi Demo is how I taught Guru3D to add scanline sync, and how I taught WinUAE/CLK to sync emu raster to real raster in lagless vsync algorithms). They run in userspace, which is much easier than a display driver. The open source DesktopBFI project, also uses the "D3DKMT" prefixed Windows APIs too for refresh cycle synchronization. Phase-adjusting the frame presentation processing is important as the windows compositor begins to execute after the end of the VBI, but before the next refresh cycle (an annoying phasing that adds 1 refresh cycle lag, but de-jitters a lot of desktop-based VSYNC jitter).

So timing the pixel processing at a different phase (e.g. 10% before VSYNC or 10% after VSYNC), via either raster scanline syncing, or doing RTDSC/QueryPerformanceCounter() busywaits. While this can add a few milliseconds more lag, it adds a few milliseconds of jitter safety margin to prevent things like erratic BFI flicker effects. This is sometimes a good technique to prevent erratic vsync-vs-Hz jitter (caused by reprocessing too simultaneously with desktop compositing). Plus, if using approach 3 especially on multimonitor systems, it is longtime old public advice at many sources to always use fullscreen exclusive to prevent multi-Hz weird VSYNC-blocking Present() jitter from refresh rate interference effects.

For reducing lag of man-in-middle processors, in some cases you may need to roll-your-own software based VSYNC ON clone via scanline-synced VSYNC OFF as a complex lag-reducing workaround for "man in the middle shader reprocessors" to enable reprocessing with no lag penalty, otherwise, you usually get 1 refresh cycle lag for man-in-middle frame reprocessors. Oh, and disable power management when doing realtime refresh-cycle-granularity reprocessing. I've got over a thousands hours due diligence in raster knowledge, so feel free to pick my raster brains, when programming precise frame syncers. Blur Busters is the "Present()-to-photons" expert, we know the black box inside and out.

This might be TMI in a wall of text, but I love providing more detail than necessary, to minimize headaches that so many programmers waste time on before finally figuring it out.

</Software Developer Technical>

Imho MacType solution is better...
... unless someone wants hinting.
For OLEDs currently, with current version of OLED firmwares and current version of ClearTYpe, yes you are right.

But Right Tool For Right Job. For LCD, ClearType is still better. You do have to adjust the "Contrast Ratio" before it looks better than MacType, but there is an element of personal preference involved, and there are definitely cases where people absolutely hate subpixel rendering (when perfectly optimized on an LCD).

I saw OSX when playing with hackintoshes and its font rendering was the only thing I liked. On Vista on the other hand ClearType was atrocious and I hacked it out.
Then I found GDI++ and use it since then. Imean later there was ezgdi and now it is MacType - all use original GDI++ concept.
There are people who really dislike ClearType and prefer the MacType look, so I can't blame you. However, not everyone prefers MacType over ClearType when both PC/Mac is connected to the same screen at same DPI at same text sizes -- there is a definite element of personal preference involved here too. I have a Mac here, and on an LCD apples-vs-apples at same font sizes (with good fonts), I like the ClearType rendering.

Tip: Be noted that some CSS on some websites triggers a bypass Microsoft ClearType, so don't do ClearType benchmarking using Google Chrome, without verifying if that website somehow triggered an autoswitch to google's internal subpixel rendering instead of the Windows subpixel rendering engine. It's kinda weird how it switches around -- and mighty annoying on BGR displays because Chrome's subpixel renderer is always RGB even on BGR displays. That's why some websites suddenly toggle between RGB and BGR weirdnesses (e.g. when marking copy and pasting text, as it reprints and rerenders text and suddenly seeing more/less color fringing). Annoying as bleep when I use Google Chrome on BGR displays. So benchmark in other software than Google Chrome unless you can verify whether you're using Chrome's subpixel renderer versus Windows' subpixel renderer -- they're not the same!
 
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Confirmed any LG remote works with this monitor just picked up a LG remote from Walmart for 15.00 just press TV go Menu and you can select anything. Best part about it uses AAA batteries which I have rechargeable ones for. There were cheaper one they had ones that looked nicer like the Vizio ones. I suppose I could buy one of each take them back if they don't work.

Just wanted to say appreciate the confirmation of this; great to know in case the remote ever breaks, etc.
 
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This Vesa mount totally helped my woes eyestrain feels great at work today simply by lowering the monitor about 2 1/2 inches too low is no good though I tried that and text was hard to read.
 
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One of few stands that is table mount that goes all the way down I think the VIVO stand is basically the same thing I might be wrong but comes in two colors
just like the Wali stand.
 
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I had to turn up brightness and contrast a bunch and in game otherwise I couldn't see what I was doing lol also ingame brightness Darktide is dark game by default though.
I gotta check my ingame setting game looked a little dull not sure if I have on the Highest settings enabled.
 
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