DEAD - Klipsch R-41M Bookshelf Speakers - $124 @ Amazon

[Eshelmen]

Could have sworn there was a thread on these recently.

But any who, deal is ongoing.

Picked up 2 pairs, one for me and one as a gift.

Thought these were a solid purchase.

Going to use these and a Sony core 10" base for my PC speakers. Anyone have recommendations for a amplifier?

 

[legcramp]

The Aiyima A07 is a pretty solid and well reviewed amp.

https://www.amazon.com/AIYIMA-A07-TPA3255-Amplifier-Digital/dp/B08CJZGT6H

 

[randomdean100]

The Aiyima A07 is a pretty solid and well reviewed amp.

https://www.amazon.com/AIYIMA-A07-TPA3255-Amplifier-Digital/dp/B08CJZGT6H

Most of the chi-fi stuff is solid, as long as you stick with a brand that you can research if they have a background longer than 5 years or so. The aiyima is also one of the better testing units as well, but I'd hardly say it'd be necessary to have 300w per channel even at whatever ohm these are because I doubt it's 4 ohm at 150w per channel at 8 ohm it'd still be way more than necessary for these smallish bookshelf speakers. You could save a couple bucks if you're on a budget and get any of a handful of other options that may have a better ability to connect to a system than just line in.

This https://www.amazon.com/Douk-Audio-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless/dp/B07X93W1PM at 50 w per channel at 8 ohm should be more than enough to push these, loudly. I use a g3 pro, on a set of Polk monitor 40s 125 watt per channel rated, which has the same output but comes with a headphone amp but it sadly cannot be switched independently of the speakers being powered. You'd save about 20 bucks but get more connectivity and it'll still be plenty loud.

 

[legcramp]

Most of the chi-fi stuff is solid, as long as you stick with a brand that you can research if they have a background longer than 5 years or so. The aiyima is also one of the better testing units as well, but I'd hardly say it'd be necessary to have 300w per channel even at whatever ohm these are because I doubt it's 4 ohm at 150w per channel at 8 ohm it'd still be way more than necessary for these smallish bookshelf speakers. You could save a couple bucks if you're on a budget and get any of a handful of other options that may have a better ability to connect to a system than just line in.

I wish it was 300w per channel but the spec sheet for the TPA3255 is 300w @ 4ohm or something with a THD of 10%

 

[randomdean100]

I wish it was 300w per channel but the spec sheet for the TPA3255 is 300w @ 4ohm or something with a THD of 10%

Lol def more of a tower speaker amp still.

 

[Eshelmen]

The Aiyima A07 is a pretty solid and well reviewed amp.

https://www.amazon.com/AIYIMA-A07-TPA3255-Amplifier-Digital/dp/B08CJZGT6H

Thanks! But those don't seem to allow sub passthrough.
Anyone have experience with Fosi? Was looking at this one to drive them.

 

[randomdean100]

Thanks! But those don't seem to allow sub passthrough.
Anyone have experience with Fosi? Was looking at this one to drive them.

A little late to the reply, fosi is alright the problem with trying to find a smaller, cheaper amp, with sub out you almost always lose half the total per channel output to the speakers themselves. This is a 50w per channel unit, not sure if that makes a big dealbreaker compared to a better outputting unit specifically for you. Apart from some of the higher end amps it's notoriously hard to find combined active sub out with a 100w per channel at 4 ohm power delivery., I was specifically advised to run high level outs to the sub to avoid this issue.

Spoiler: Connecting sub from googled article

https://www.aperionaudio.com/blogs/aperion-audio-blog/how-to-get-the-most-out-of-your-subwoofer

Hooking Up Your Subwoofer​

If your receiver has a subwoofer output:​

1. Run a cable with the appropriate plugs on each end (sometimes called RCA plugs) from the receiver’s subwoofer output to the subwoofer input labeled something like “sub input”, “line in” or “low-level in”. It is best to use a shielded cable for your subwoofer so other pesky signals don’t worm their way into your precious bass.
2. If this cable encounters household wiring, have it cross at a 90-degree angle.
3. Most subwoofers have both a left & right input. It usually doesn’t matter which one you use. Some people will buy a “Y adapter” or “splitter” so that a single cable can feed both subwoofer inputs. There’s no harm in doing this, the reason subwoofers have L & R inputs is so that if you have a stereo pre-amplifier, you can use both “pre-outs” to the subwoofer without losing anything.
4. If you are using more than one subwoofer, you can run the same kind of cable from the subwoofer’s “line out” or “low level out” to the next subwoofer.