24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

Last time I tried, YPbPr wasn't available for non-TV resolutions from my 5700xt. That's why I haven't been using the adapter haha.
Are you using CRU or AMD software to create the custom resolution? I think AMD software is broken for custom resolutions so you have to use CRU. Also, AMD doesn't accept EDID overrides for displays connected via MST Hub so make sure it's a direct connection. Last time I tried was a couple months ago.
 
Are you using CRU or AMD software to create the custom resolution? I think AMD software is broken for custom resolutions so you have to use CRU. Also, AMD doesn't accept EDID overrides for displays connected via MST Hub so make sure it's a direct connection. Last time I tried was a couple months ago.

If I remember correctly, CRU resolutions didn't show up. It's like AMD won't let EDID overrides work with most DACs, even if they're not hubs?

I guess I can try again sometime.
 
If I remember correctly, CRU resolutions didn't show up. It's like AMD won't let EDID overrides work with most DACs, even if they're not hubs?

I guess I can try again sometime.
EDID overrides (created by CRU or display installer) are stored in the registry per display vendor/product and GPU port. CRU will let you change the display name in the EDID override, so you should add a description of the GPU port number. Then if you see that new name then you can tell it's working (check Windows UI and Radeon Software UI).
With an MST Hub, the new display name will show in the Windows UI but not the Radeon UI. I suppose I should do some new testing in case AMD has fixed things since last I tried.
 
I am looking to replace my old DTP-94 colorimeter with something better. Preferably around $150-$400 price point. Something that works well with CRT phosphors and Argyll/DisplayCAL/HCFR, and measures more precise in deep black levels, etc, any recommendations, please?
 
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i1 display pro
Thanks, apparently there is a newer(?) version called plus at https://www.xrite.com/categories/calibration-profiling/chart-readers/i1display-pro-plus

It specifically mentions OLED and 2000 nits HDR. I am not sure how much of that is just marketing (when comparing to the non-plus version) but so far it looks like a reasonable buy. I could see some benefits about the OLED/HDR calibration translate to CRT. Seems like the good quality is in the thousands of $ and that there is not that many notable products at my price point.

Forgot to ask, can I really use it with Argyll, DisplayCAL and HCFR? I don't want to use some special proprietary software, nor register/install drm, just to use this product.
 
Thanks, apparently there is a newer(?) version called plus at https://www.xrite.com/categories/calibration-profiling/chart-readers/i1display-pro-plus

It specifically mentions OLED and 2000 nits HDR. I am not sure how much of that is just marketing (when comparing to the non-plus version) but so far it looks like a reasonable buy. I could see some benefits about the OLED/HDR calibration translate to CRT. Seems like the good quality is in the thousands of $ and that there is not that many notable products at my price point.

Forgot to ask, can I really use it with Argyll, DisplayCAL and HCFR? I don't want to use some special proprietary software, nor register/install drm, just to use this product.
You can use the i1 display pro with it. Not sure about the plus.
 
Great, I will look into that but I think it would (or rather should) be the same for both plus and non-plus, seeing how it's the same base product in the naming scheme.
Would think so. You should look into it first before purchase just in case. Perhaps I missed it but do you want the plus for the option of handling OLED/HDR? Me personally, I have no interest in it until Rec2020 is mainstream. :)
 
Ok so I have the thing now. Seems to measure faster and more precise at first sight, how big the real difference is I have yet to tell. But I still have the windas issues with F520 that I had reported here before :{ This time I am actually getting an error which (I think) I wasn't before.

On step 248, which is between the final step of 5000K and first (and last) step of SRGB adjustment, I got:
ECS2 ERROR CODE :3A
and immediately after that one another appeared:
REG WRITE IS NG - > CAN'T ACCESS .
CHECK CONDITION !

I am only getting these errors when I WPB off the original DAT file, consistently. So the errors only show up on the first run but not any others if I do more. I have double-checked this by reloading back the original DAT several times now.

The real problem is that the picture after WPB is super washed out and the guns seem a little in overdrive so everything is a bit blurry and ABL is definitely on, possibly even on darker non-white patterns. Black is far from black even though in G2 step I matched black perfectly. The image is much much better before WPB basically.

So I am stuck with one not-ideal workaround and that is adjusting G2 manually in the DAT file and not being able to calibrate the white points at all.

I have a weird feeling about the step right after G2, it says to get 6.5cmd2 on black but it just seems like 6.5 is too bright for some reason, I dunno... And I am sure I do not have any LUT loaded, I have reset it in any app I have and ran `dispwin -c` as well.

edit: running image restoration before first WPB (on original DAT) seems to make the errors not show up during WPB but the resulting image is still the same = very bad.
 
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did you reset your LUT before calibrating?
Yes, with dispwin -c, nvidia panel and displaycal. You can tell it is reset because it crashes blacks a lot and changes the whitepoint considerably. Post WPB LUT calibration shows no issues. It's just the WPB being a problem. Thankfully I can play around by editing the dat file and OSD to get the base setup looking at least okay-ish and then make it pretty nice with LUT calibration.

I am thinking of trying different UART adapter. The signal also goes through the Sunix adapter which could be at fault too. But I do not think these are at fault. I would think it's something with the monitor or windas. I have tried various fake values during WPB just to see if I can make it behave better and nothing really worked, so it is also possible my windas is buggy/old version, but I have only ever used this one.

The most odd to me are:

- Step right after G2, which you should do on black at 6.5 nits but I am not sure if that is normal to ask for such overbright result of a black color? But perhaps that is normal procedure to fine tune the whitepoint in deep blacks?
- Last step of each image color temp, white pattern, asks for (IIRC) 11 nits but in order to reach there the picture is so washed out you can barely see the UI. By default it is positioned at value 40 but I must set it to ~10 to hit the target. I think this step does not exist in FW900 WPB procedure btw.

edit: the monitor seems to be on the windows default monitor.sys driver too and it says "SONY GDM-F520" in the screen resolution panel.

edit 2: I don't understand why the original DATs show G2 around 180s for these monitors and all is fine when it is loaded with that, yet when I try to input 180 in windas procedure it shows horrible retrace lines and I (and most people I have seen here) need to go down to around 100-120 usually.

edit 3: another quirk I just found, let's say I am on 6500K in OSD and load the original DAT file, then "set final settings". During the "final settings" stage it should set the monitor back to 9300K (which is the system default), which it does if you look in the OSD but the colors are still 6500K. So there is no visual difference when I switch between 9300K and 6500K in OSD. On 5000K there is the expected difference. This issue can be fixed by loading the original dat file, do the "set final setttings" and then do it all one more time. Doing only "set final settings" step multiple times did not fix it.

edit 4: for the curious bunch I am uploading portions of dat values and marking any larger differences. Also, in both dat files, note the R gun _BKG values, they are lower than G and B guns. And higher in R_DRIVE value. The image does have a reddish tint during the G2 step in windas and sometimes the screen flashes red immediately upon powering on.
 

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I found dealing with Dat backups and loading to be buggy (on the FW900), so I never really bothered with them. The step where it asks you to achieve a higher luminance (in your case 6.5 nits) with black is normal - that isn't representative of the actual final black value.
 
I found dealing with Dat backups and loading to be buggy (on the FW900), so I never really bothered with them. The step where it asks you to achieve a higher luminance (in your case 6.5 nits) with black is normal - that isn't representative of the actual final black value.
It is as if the WPB formulations behind the scene are wrong, something like some important variable value being incorrect and I have no control over it with the exposed variables in the procedure. I have tried faking higher/lower G2, higher/lower luminance target in that 6.5 nits step, and more. I have also tried messing with the dat file (reversing the WPB values, one at a time) but there wasn't 1 particular value that was making the image wrong. It was more like all values making it slightly wrong and completely wrong as a sum of all parts.

Some findings I made in my search though, so some random ramblings follow below.

I saw a mention that the original Sony DAS for DOS had a scripting language that allowed you to change the EEPROM values on the fly. Just like Windas WPB does it or the Diamondtron FACT2 service menu. I have no idea if that option is available to the user or if it's something that needs to be uncovered somehow. If live editing would be possible then it might be feasible to do a manual WPB, same as you would do on Diamondtron. Right now it's not realistically possible to adjust the color values via dat editing because each change takes like a minute or two to load.. so that would take ages.

Going through the dat files I noticed several strange variables:

BCF_R_CRCT 107
BCF_G_CRCT 106
BCF_B_CRCT 136

and

BCF_G2_CRCT 54

The values are factory default.

I am guessing CRCT means CHARACTER and BCF could be, I dunno, BACKFIELD?

The first triad is bunched up with all the OSD variables, which is strange, because they are not something you can change via OSD. They are not exposed in the WPB procedure either.

And the BCF_G2_CRCT is all the way at the bottom of where regular G2 is located.

Here comes the strangest part. After a WPB, all 4 of these variables have an assigned value of 128. So I thought they are not doing anything, but then I tried lowering the BCF_G2_CRCT variable to the lower original of 54 and it really made the picture super dark, almost invisible (just like a really low regular G2 would did it). So what's up with there being two G2s? Is it THE_TRUE_G2 = G2 + BCF_G2_CRCT ? I think this could explain why the original G2 is around 180 but around 100 after WPB! WPB_G2 = ORIG_G2-128+BCF_G2_CRCT ...... it fits perfectly for my last run : 114=188-128+54 Coincidence or not?

I would also be interested to know what the COLOR section in the dat file is. There are 3 modes, I am assuming one for each temperature. And each has 12 variables, COL 00 - COL 012. Judging by their values, they seem to be divided in triads so it's probably 12/3=4 settings for each mode. Anyone knows what these do? They are not the classic bias/drive/osd colors because those have other variables elsewhere.

And by the way, the i1Display Pro Plus I just got produces some noticeable improvements over DTP94. The dark and mid details are more evenly spread out without visual disconnects (think bronzing or crushing) and there is less gray discoloration haze over the picture, especially at 2.2 gamma, which was never my favourite but now it may become one (trying to aim at ~ 80 nits 6500K 2.2 gamma, imo overall best with most content, old and new). It was still a lot of money though. But I feel no buyers remorse, the results are indeed a little bit nicer, mainly in the more detailed games from 2005+ and movies.
 
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yea the i1display pro is a great tool, glad you're seeing the benefits!

Not sure about what those variables mean, at this point you have travelled deeper down the DAT rabbit hole than I have :p

So, just to understand - you've been able to complete a WPB without errors, but the picture doesn't look right afterwards, right? And switching color temps doesn't make the picture change at al right?

Curious, did you use HCFR to measure your white point accuracy after calibration? If so, what were your delta e's like?
 
So, just to understand - you've been able to complete a WPB without errors, but the picture doesn't look right afterwards, right?
Correct, picture is washed out, black is gray and guns seem to be in overdrive so everything is a bit blurry. Whitepoint is far from correct (even though I hit the chromacity targets perfectly during WPB).

And switching color temps doesn't make the picture change at al right?
Just a small bug, worked around by loading the dat file in twice and finalizing it twice. Then it's fine.
Curious, did you use HCFR to measure your white point accuracy after calibration? If so, what were your delta e's like?
I don't really pay any attention to delta e. I just watch the x,y and Y values and I think I am on target after LUT calibration. I was on target during WPB steps but the end result is broken. I am now using original DAT (sometimes with small mods) because it is better than broken WPB result. If you tell me how to make some kind of proper report (I have HCFR and DisplayCAL) then I can post the results here.

I also have issue that some resolutions do not remember their size and position and I need to fix that every time the resolution changes and I admit it's driving me up the wall a little bit. But it's not a deal breaker, just inconvenient.
 
in the guide, I include instructions on how to measure grayscale after calibration (as well as gamma).

Look at the section that begins with:

Load up HCFR on your main PC, and switch the colorimeter cable from the laptop to PC. This time, in HCFR, choose "view images" from the "select a generator" pulldown menu. Make sure the reference is D65. Also, in advanced, make sure "recommended" is chosen for the Delta E color difference formula (see image below). Don't hit the green play button, but instead, click on the Measures menu, and choose Gray Scale.

HCFR may have changed since I wrote this guide, so not sure if all the instructions map.

But basically, you want to ensure your reference white points is D65. Also, if you have used Argyll to fine tune the LUT, then you'll need to make sure that HCFR loads the LUT when doing its measurements (I think by default it doesn't do this, but not sure).
 
Thanks, I will give it a go soon and post the results.

But now that I have a nice LUT I keep running into conflicts with games using their own LUTs, I am thinking of making a simple tool to combine in-game LUT with my LUT. Not sure if it will produce nice results at all, but I am somewhat interested either way.
 
But now that I have a nice LUT I keep running into conflicts with games using their own LUTs, I am thinking of making a simple tool to combine in-game LUT with my LUT. Not sure if it will produce nice results at all, but I am somewhat interested either way.

You think that's possible with the new close-to-the-metal API's like Vulkan and DX12?
 
You think that's possible with the new close-to-the-metal API's like Vulkan and DX12?
No idea about that, I just wanted to combine the game and calibration LUTs together (because you can only have 1 of them active), using some extrapolation/approximation. If you look at the below snippets from actual LUT data, it should be a simple task:

DEFAULT
...
250 64000 64000 64000
251 64256 64256 64256
252 64512 64512 64512
253 64768 64768 64768
254 65024 65024 65024
255 65280 65280 65280

UNREAL TOURNAMENT 1999
...
250 64505 64505 64505
251 64711 64711 64711
252 64917 64917 64917
253 65123 65123 65123
254 65329 65329 65329
255 65535 65535 65535

CALIBRATION LUT
...
250 61851 62278 64564
251 62061 62489 64781
252 62270 62699 65000
253 62480 62911 65219
254 62689 63122 65439
255 62899 63335 65535

I am just not sure why the default white is 65280 (255 x 256) and not 65535 (2^16, which I am assuming is the true max possible value).
 
without LUT:

without-lut.PNG


with LUT (2.2G):

with-lut.PNG


notes: this is on default DAT, with lowered OSD brightness (from 50 to 38) to reach true black. But it is not in prime mode, it is in 2336x1314@99Hz (don't ask lol).

I am sure it could be better if the WPB procedure would work on this one but so far I was unable to make progress there. The biggest loss here is the luminance, getting only around ~80 nits compared to the spec which is I think ~100. I can use the superbright feature and that fixes it but the picture is a little too contrast-y after that. But I kinda like 80 nits for night time, I think I have already mentioned it here in this thread before. I will also post the superbright results below soon.

edit: same thing, with LUT, but instead of PROFESSIONAL mode, it is on DYNAMIC (also called SUPERBRIGHT) mode (which needed even lower OSD brightness of 33 to get true black):

superbright-with-lut.PNG
 
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so the wpb has clearly not done the job for white point, but the LUT adjustment has done a good job.

Did the black levels get deeper after the wpb?

With the LUT adjustment, what does your gamma curve look like?
 
so the wpb has clearly not done the job for white point, but the LUT adjustment has done a good job.
The "without LUT" picture is also "before WPB", should have made it more clear. If I do WPB then black is like dark gray, everything is washed away and little blurry. Not sure about the whitepoint precision there, didn't even look.
Did the black levels get deeper after the wpb?
Black level seems the same, true black.
With the LUT adjustment, what does your gamma curve look like?
Gamma curve is flat on target with some small variances here and there, seems normal.

Is it possible to fix one of the guns flashing it's color during startup? It looks like a storm is going on inside the tube and can sometime make the picture pop and the monitor shuts itself off (all this only during startup). Maybe it could be related to the WPB issue somehow. I work around that by lowering contrast and brightness before powering off and turn it back up after a couple minutes after startup, then it's fine or I get only 1 or 3 flashes. Also opening OSD immediately after startup somehow makes these symptoms less severe.
 
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I've had a couple tubes do that flashing upon powering on. When it happens, I'd turn the monitor off immediately, then back on, which seemed to prevent it from going nuts. Dunno if it's related to WPB issue - my guess is probably not.

Not sure what's going on with your WPB - so the blacks get worse after WPB, even though you turned G2 down real low in both the G2 steps, right?
 
I've had a couple tubes do that flashing upon powering on. When it happens, I'd turn the monitor off immediately, then back on, which seemed to prevent it from going nuts. Dunno if it's related to WPB issue - my guess is probably not.
It could have something to do with aging capacitors or something like that. It looks as if some voltage needs to stabilize there first then it works just fine. It's only during cold startup after hours (=overnight) of being turned off.
Not sure what's going on with your WPB - so the blacks get worse after WPB, even though you turned G2 down real low in both the G2 steps, right?
Yeah, it's all bonkers. Not just the blacks. It's all a bit washed out and in overdrive. I have tried on-target G2 and also faking G2 higher and lower than on-target. I have performed WPB many times before with success (on FW900) but always had this problem on F520s - I have two of them and both have the same WPB issue (and also the flashing at startup, just a different gun each).

I was not paying attention throughout the whole thread but is there actually someone here who has F520 and did WPB with success?
 
It could have something to do with aging capacitors or something like that. It looks as if some voltage needs to stabilize there first then it works just fine. It's only during cold startup after hours (=overnight) of being turned off.

Yeah, it's all bonkers. Not just the blacks. It's all a bit washed out and in overdrive. I have tried on-target G2 and also faking G2 higher and lower than on-target. I have performed WPB many times before with success (on FW900) but always had this problem on F520s - I have two of them and both have the same WPB issue (and also the flashing at startup, just a different gun each).

I was not paying attention throughout the whole thread but is there actually someone here who has F520 and did WPB with success?
Yes, jbltecnicspro

 
So I'm thinking about upgrading the firmware on my Sunix DPU3000, but I also want to be 99.9% sure I'm not going to brick it.

You can find Synaptics VMM2322 firmware for lenovo docks, but it says I have the wrong chip when I go to install. One of the installers gave me the option to "install anyway".

Some of the installers come with patch history notes, attached below, and my Sunix's firmware version, 2.15.002, is included in the notes. No I'm wondering, would they use the same firmware numbers for different model chips?

And some of these are for VMM2320, which seems to have overlapping firmware since the patch numbers are the same?

I can't say for sure, because the installer, even though it correctly identifies my adapter, is telling me my chip is incompatible.

But it's the VMM2322?! Maybe the chips for the Lenovo, Dell, and HP docks are just slightly different, even though they share the same model number?

If I could dump my firmware and reinstall it later, I'd be less nervous. But this software doesn't provide a way to dump default firmware, that I can see, so I don't think I would be able to rollback if the new firmware breaks something. There is a Linux program, fwupd, that might let me dump my EEPROM but it looks a little over my head.

I also included the data dump from the Sunix the software gave me
 

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Digital Foundry has put out another FW900 commercial.



They also gave a shout out to LG OLED. BTW: Anyone know if the C1 can do 4:4:4 and strobe at the same time? (Thought I read something casting doubt on that, but I'm thinking I must have misread it.)
 
The issue with the C1 is it can only strobe at 60hz. The CX can only strobe at 60hz and 120hz. Pretty sure they can do it at 4:4:4, I haven't read anything on the contrary
 
So I'm thinking about upgrading the firmware on my Sunix DPU3000, but I also want to be 99.9% sure I'm not going to brick it.

You can find Synaptics VMM2322 firmware for lenovo docks, but it says I have the wrong chip when I go to install. One of the installers gave me the option to "install anyway".

Some of the installers come with patch history notes, attached below, and my Sunix's firmware version, 2.15.002, is included in the notes. No I'm wondering, would they use the same firmware numbers for different model chips?

And some of these are for VMM2320, which seems to have overlapping firmware since the patch numbers are the same?

I can't say for sure, because the installer, even though it correctly identifies my adapter, is telling me my chip is incompatible.

But it's the VMM2322?! Maybe the chips for the Lenovo, Dell, and HP docks are just slightly different, even though they share the same model number?

If I could dump my firmware and reinstall it later, I'd be less nervous. But this software doesn't provide a way to dump default firmware, that I can see, so I don't think I would be able to rollback if the new firmware breaks something. There is a Linux program, fwupd, that might let me dump my EEPROM but it looks a little over my head.

I also included the data dump from the Sunix the software gave me
My experience with fwupd and Synaptics MST hubs is at https://github.com/fwupd/fwupd/issues/1665 and https://github.com/fwupd/fwupd/pull/2923
There was no method for saving the current firmware. I didn't try using one vendor's firmware on another vendor's device.

In unrelated news, I see Synaptics now has devices that can output HDMI 2.1. https://www.synaptics.com/products/video-interface-ics
I wonder how they behave as a DisplayPort to HDMI 2.1 adapter compared to the Realtek RTD2173 (as used by the Club3d CAC-1085)
 
Hardbricked my Sunix! Whoopsie daisy!

So I found that Synaptics has a firmware analysis/updating tool in the Windows store, and it can create a backup of your firmware!

So cool, I thought, I'll just back it up, and if none of the firmware I downloaded works, I'll just go back to the factory firmware.

So I tried 2.33.000, from HP, if I recall correctly. That lead to no video output. No big deal, so I tried the 2.24.000 from lenovo next.

Then the Sunix kinda freezes up, the light doesn't blink, and it locks up my computer whenever it's plugged in. So I power cycle it a few times, try to get it to stop freezing my PC... and then the light goes out.

Never got it to turn back on. Synaptics software no longer detects a hub...

Oh well, this was a $10 ebay score from a few years ago. I guess now I have pony up the money for the Icybox version. It seems that another user on r/CRTgaming is using one and is able to run resolutions that my Sunix bugged out on, like 2048x1536. So maybe it's on some newer firmware (which is why I tried to update mine in the first place)
 
Never got it to turn back on. Synaptics software no longer detects a hub...
Did you try fwupd in Linux? When I had the wrong firmware in my Delock 87737 it would cause a hang if a display was connected to it. If a display was not connected to it, then the MST Hub would not appear as a device unless it was connected to the Intel GPU with a display connected to a different Intel GPU port (the GPU ports always appear in Linux). Just remember to disconnect any AMD GPUs since fwupdtool doesn’t work while an AMD GPU exists.
 
How hard is fwupd to set up? Do I need to compile a specific version just for Synaptics chipsets, or will the version I get with "apt-get" already have all the necessary libraries or whatever?

Because the thing is, the Sunix doesn't cause my system to hang any more because it no longer powers on. You think that indicates some physical damage, from the firmware burning up the chip with a wrong voltage?
 
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How hard is fwupd to set up? Do I need to compile a specific version just for Synaptics chipsets, or will the version I get with "apt-get" already have all the necessary libraries or whatever?

Because the thing is, the Sunix doesn't cause my system to hang any more because it no longer powers on. You think that indicates some physical damage, from the firmware burning up the chip with a wrong voltage?
Yes, it should be as simple as apt-get (if it's not already installed?)
Then you connect the MST Hub.
Then you install the firmware.

No power might be a problem. The fwupdtool just needs to be able to communicate via the dp aux channel to check for a firmware. I don't know if your Sunix will get that far until you try.

I looked at my terminal history, found the commands I used (not sure which ones all worked since history doesn't show which commands returned errors) and organized them below. You should check the man pages for the commands and read the docs on GitHub to be sure. The command to install firmware is install-blob (bypassed the install command). The 40 character hex number is the Device ID that you get when you list the devices with get-devices. Note that MST hubs are not listed if an AMD GPU is connected even if the MST Hub is connected to Intel GPU. That code should probably be changed (or a method to bypass the check should be added).

Code:
#===================================================
# DisplayPort ports

ls -l /dev/drm_dp_*

# There should be three ports for the Intel iGPU even when nothing is connected to them.
# Connect the MST hub with no displays connected to it.
# fwupd will access it through one of the Intel iGPU ports.
# If the MST hub is working then connecting a display to the hub will make all the ports of the hub get added to /dev/

#===================================================
# fwupd files

ls -lR /usr/share/fwupd
ls /usr/local/fwupd
ls /usr/local/etc/fwupd
ls -lR /usr/local/include/fwupd-1

#===================================================
# check it

sudo fwupdtool --version
sudo fwupdtool --version -v
sudo fwupdmgr --version

#===================================================
# get it

sudo apt install fwupd
sudo apt build-dep fwupd

# check it again

#===================================================
# build it (you probably don't need to build it yourself but if you do, use build instructions on github)

git clone https://github.com/fwupd/fwupd
cd fwupd
./contrib/ci/generate_dependencies.py -o ubuntu | sudo xargs apt install -y
meson build
ninja -C build
sudo ninja -C build install
sudo ldconfig

# check it again

#===================================================
# use it

sudo fwupdmgr get-updates
sudo fwupdmgr refresh
sudo fwupdmgr refresh --force
sudo fwupdmgr get-devices -v

sudo fwupdtool get-plugins --verbose
sudo fwupdtool get-plugins --verbose --plugins synaptics_mst
sudo fwupdtool get-plugins --verbose --plugins synaptics_mst --version

sudo fwupdtool get-devices
sudo fwupdtool get-devices --verbose
sudo fwupdtool get-devices --show-all-devices
sudo fwupdtool get-devices --show-all-devices --no-safety-check --verbose
sudo fwupdtool get-devices --show-all-devices --no-safety-check --verbose --plugin-verbose=synaptics_mst
sudo fwupdtool get-devices --plugins synaptics_mst
sudo fwupdtool get-devices --plugins synaptics_mst --verbose
sudo fwupdtool get-devices --show-all-devices --plugin-whitelist

sudo fwupdmgr get-details '/media/joevt/Windows10/SwSetup/SP111940/Firmware/DPHub/Panamera_firmware.fullrom'

sudo fwupdtool firmware-parse '/media/joevt/Windows10/SwSetup/SP111940/Firmware/DPHub/Panamera_firmware.fullrom' -v --plugins synaptics_mst 2>&1
sudo fwupdtool firmware-parse '/home/joevt/Documents/FL_4L_MST_56_T6_5.04.132.fullrom' -v --plugins synaptics_mst
sudo fwupdtool firmware-parse '/home/joevt/Documents/FL_4L_MST_56_T6_5.04.132.fullrom' --plugins synaptics_mst
sudo fwupdtool firmware-parse '/home/joevt/Documents/'*.fullrom --plugins synaptics_mst
sudo fwupdtool firmware-parse '/home/joevt/Documents/'*.fullrom

sudo fwupdtool firmware-dump '/media/joevt/Windows10/SwSetup/SP111940/Firmware/DPHub/Panamera_firmware2'

sudo fwupdtool install-blob '/media/joevt/Windows10/SwSetup/SP111940/Firmware/DPHub/FL_4L_MST_56_T6_5.04.132(1).fullrom' 585c346c009da3cc19a400fb59a4ed8d0cbd0151 -v
sudo fwupdtool install-blob '/home/joevt/Documents/FL_4L_MST_834_5.04.135.fullrom' 585c346c009da3cc19a400fb59a4ed8d0cbd0151

#===================================================
 
Alright cool, i have an old Intel-based Dell with integrated DP out I can try this with. Thanks for your help.


But assuming the chip is fried, another idea I had is that with a hot air soldering setup you could probably swap in the vmm2322 and eeprom chip from a lenovo or HP dock, since they're sitting on ebay for under $20.

So
1)flash the dock to Sunix's firmware
2)don't restart the dock, just disconnect, in case the firmware would cause problems for the dock
3) remove eeprom and VM2322 chips
4) solder into Sunix adapter.

I don't think I'll be motivated enough to go through all that trouble, but I'll give it to somebody who is. Not super necessary because for now, you can still get the IcyBox variant for around $80 from Europe, and the Delock for a little over $100
 
So for a few days I was on an obsessive quest to find that Vention CGMHA adapter with the Lontium LT8711X-B. There are still plenty for sell in the world, but only in countries like Vietnam, Kenya, Jordan, and Indonesia, at stores that don't sell internationally.

So I did another search for just the LT8711X-B, and I found another USB-C adapter that uses it!

https://www.**********.com.cn/product/detail/802.html

PTAV-01.jpg
PTAV-04.jpg


It's the PTAV from **********. Much easier to find, not sure if it's in production or not. And there is a little bit of weirdness on Aliexpress when searching that model number.

Like two different pages have that picture, and a third page also says it's the PTAV but with a slightly different looking adapter (VGA is recessed and housing is a bit different).

But searching PTAV on newegg also shows the adapter pictured from **********'s website.

So, I ordered the one from Newegg. No clue when it will get here, shipping form China. When it arrives I'll let you guys know if it actually has the Lontium chip. With super cheap products like this, they can swap the chipset at a moment's notice and never change the information website. So fingers are crossed.

And since I don't have usb-c on my Radeon 5700xt, I had to find a converter. I remembered that expensive add on card from Sunix that Derupter mentioned a while back, the UPD2018. Turns out that was also sold by Dell, and some guy on ebay apparently found a truckload of the things and is selling them for $19 a piece!

https://www.ebay.com/usr/gumbyd1

Dell has the model number as UPD2018d0.

EDIT: haha OK, looks like this company sold some bad shit in the past and the name is banned from Hardforum, but for $16 I'm very willing to roll the dice.
 
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And since I don't have usb-c on my Radeon 5700xt, I had to find a converter. I remembered that expensive add on card from Sunix that @Derupter mentioned a while back, the UPD2018. Turns out that was also sold by Dell, and some guy on ebay apparently found a truckload of the things and is selling them for $19 a piece!
If you have a PCIe slot then the Sunix will work and $19 is a great price. Here are some other options:
https://egpu.io/forums/gpu-monitor-...sb-c-to-displayport-cable/paged/4/#post-79127
Newer options not listed there are:
- Maple Ridge based Thunderbolt 4 add-in cards (like the ASUS ThunderboltEx 4). Even if your PC doesn't have a Thunderbolt header to support Thunderbolt, the Thunderbolt 3 and Thunderbolt 4 add-in cards should still be able to support USB and DisplayPort alt mode.
- HDMI 2.0 to USB-C adapters like the CAC-1332. I want to see one of those that uses the LT6711GX chip (HDMI 2.1 to DisplayPort 1.4) which should be able to support 5K even from HDMI 2.0 or to provide full DisplayPort 1.2 bandwidth.
 
Dang, I spent hours looking at adapters like the Huawei cable and the thunderbolt PCIe cards, but I never though to check and see what the HDMI>USB C options were. I bet with a GTX 1000 series you could even get interlaced support that way.
 
So for a few days I was on an obsessive quest to find that Vention CGMHA adapter with the Lontium LT8711X-B. There are still plenty for sell in the world, but only in countries like Vietnam, Kenya, Jordan, and Indonesia, at stores that don't sell internationally.

So I did another search for just the LT8711X-B, and I found another USB-C adapter that uses it!

https://www.**********.com.cn/product/detail/802.html

View attachment 373033View attachment 373034

It's the PTAV from **********. Much easier to find, not sure if it's in production or not. And there is a little bit of weirdness on Aliexpress when searching that model number.

Like two different pages have that picture, and a third page also says it's the PTAV but with a slightly different looking adapter (VGA is recessed and housing is a bit different).

But searching PTAV on newegg also shows the adapter pictured from **********'s website.

So, I ordered the one from Newegg. No clue when it will get here, shipping form China. When it arrives I'll let you guys know if it actually has the Lontium chip. With super cheap products like this, they can swap the chipset at a moment's notice and never change the information website. So fingers are crossed.

And since I don't have usb-c on my Radeon 5700xt, I had to find a converter. I remembered that expensive add on card from Sunix that Derupter mentioned a while back, the UPD2018. Turns out that was also sold by Dell, and some guy on ebay apparently found a truckload of the things and is selling them for $19 a piece!

https://www.ebay.com/usr/gumbyd1

Dell has the model number as UPD2018d0.

EDIT: haha OK, looks like this company sold some bad shit in the past and the name is banned from Hardforum, but for $16 I'm very willing to roll the dice.
Thanks for opening the Benfei HDMI>VGA, now we know for sure that the chipset is the Algoltek AG6200A, I suspected it.
About the adapters with Lontium,look at the end of this post.
Mmm... it seems that the CMFHB on Amazon.it is no more available.
 
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Didn't expect to come here so soon for a technical problem with my 454. Sadly here I am.

A couple months ago I tried turning it on for the first time in a while, and was immediately met with this. The monitor has low hours (likely sub 1000), but it was sitting unused for years prior to me using it.


I've never had any issues prior to this, does anyone know what the issue is, and if it's fixable? Any help would be greatly appreciated, miss using her.

Also, another CRT monitor of mine has a problem where there's an audible "click" and the image refocuses or looks like it degausses almost. Any ideas on that too? Might be able to get a video of it sometime but it's in storage right now.
 
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