LG 48CX

[MistaSparkul]

If you guys don't mind can you also test whether or not you can connect multiple inputs from the same GPU to the TV? One input being DP 1.4 -> Club3D Adapter -> HDMI on the TV, the other input being HDMI 2.0 from GPU -> Straight to the TV. See if you can readily and easily swap which input you are using on the TV to swap back and fourth between 4k120Hz 444 desktop and 4k120Hz 420 gsync for games.

 

[mirkendargen]

If you guys don't mind can you also test whether or not you can connect multiple inputs from the same GPU to the TV? One input being DP 1.4 -> Club3D Adapter -> HDMI on the TV, the other input being HDMI 2.0 from GPU -> Straight to the TV. See if you can readily and easily swap which input you are using on the TV to swap back and fourth between 4k120Hz 444 desktop and 4k120Hz 420 gsync for games.

I tried this with just 2x HDMI. The "problem" is Windows considers them both connected all the time, and if you're extending your desktop across monitors you'll have 4k of desktop hiding somewhere that you can't see waiting to swallow your cursor and windows.

 

[MistaSparkul]

I tried this with just 2x HDMI. The "problem" is Windows considers them both connected all the time, and if you're extending your desktop across monitors you'll have 4k of desktop hiding somewhere that you can't see waiting to swallow your cursor and windows.

Hmmm so I guess this means switching back and fourth between the Club3D adapter and then the normal HDMI port won't be a simple thing with a button press on the remote. Bummer

 

[elvn]

Mine seems to title forward a bit Any one else notice that?

looks good with the 27's . I looked them up from your sig:

...BenQ GW2765HT Eye Care 27 inch IPS 2560 x 1440p Monitor | Optimized for Home & Office Low Blue Light Technology

...NEC Display MultiSync EA274WMi-BK Black 27” WQHD Widescreen IPS Panel, LED Backlight LCD Monitor 6ms 350cd/m2

I'm just so used to having 43" 4k screen's real-estate that I'm not willing to swap out to my old 27" ones. On top of them being smaller actual dimensions, when I'd be sitting 40" or 48" (4') away from a 48" or 55" OLED I think I'd be too far for 27" 1440p at the default text sizes. That would mean I'd have to resort to windows scaling past 1:1 which would reduce the desktop real-estate of the 1440p screen to be even less. From your picture I can see it would be usable but it would have to be less than the regular 1:1 real-estate of a 27" 1440p for my view distance preferences..

I'm considering putting a few cheap 24" monitors above or below whatever OLED I get, with either a single of my 43" 4k tvs in portrait on one side or one on each side. Surprisingly when I measured what the layout would be with the 43" screens in portrait mode and with a large 48" in landscape instead of my 32" 1440p in the middle - I found that my array would be the same length still, 7' long.

I tried this with just 2x HDMI. The "problem" is Windows considers them both connected all the time, and if you're extending your desktop across monitors you'll have 4k of desktop hiding somewhere that you can't see waiting to swallow your cursor and windows.

This is what made the "ghost monitor" trick as a workaround for uncompressed hdmi audio to a receiver not work out for me. Every time I'd turn my hot running receiver off, that virtual display would go away. Even if I made it a smaller rez virtual display it would screw up all of my preset windows placements. Once I get a eARC capable receiver just to port audio to from whatever OLED I get this shouldn't be a problem anymore for the audio issue.

I'm probably going to hook up my playstation 4 to my future OLED and that can run PLEX, Netflix, Amazon, etc so should work out ok. Eventually a PS5 next yr most likely. Why were you trying to use multiple outputs from the main PC anyway? You can set up different sets of named settings in the TV OSD already. Is it because you want one to be the dp adapter and one HDMI? Just curious. Ah yeah I saw your reply just before I posted this.. Got it.

 

[SoCali]

Yeah my CAC-1085 was suppose to arrive today but it only just shipped and will come tomorrow.

 

[Lateralus]

I tried this with just 2x HDMI. The "problem" is Windows considers them both connected all the time, and if you're extending your desktop across monitors you'll have 4k of desktop hiding somewhere that you can't see waiting to swallow your cursor and windows.

Couldn't you just go to Display Settings and choose not to extend the desktop (display only on 1 or 2 etc.)? I thought that would turn monitors off even if they were physically connected to the system.

 

[mirkendargen]

Couldn't you just go to Display Settings and choose not to extend the desktop (display only on 1 or 2 etc.)? I thought that would turn monitors off even if they were physically connected to the system.

Yes you could set whichever you're not using as disconnected, but then you have to go switch that any time you want to switch inputs, which kinda defeats the purpose of making it simple.

I actually do the ghost monitor thing for my goofy audio setup and manage to deal with it. My "sound card" is a little thing meant for a Raspberry Pi that has HDMI in/out, 4x ESS Sabre DAC's, and 7.1 out via 4x stereo 3.5mm jacks. It doesn't like a resolution higher than 1080p so I can't just use it along with my 1440p secondary monitor.... So I have my secondary monitor hooked up once via displayport, and again via HDMI outputing 720p (minimum to carry 7.1 PCM) with the DAC in between. Then I do this with my monitor placement in Windows which appears to make it impossible to move the cursor to it:

I found a device that will take an eARC input and output a normal HDMI signal from it to connect to legacy things that don't support eARC and am tempted to just get that to simplify the whole thing...but I'm also not sure I want to pay $100 just to simplify something.

 

[Lateralus]

Yes you could set whichever you're not using as disconnected, but then you have to go switch that any time you want to switch inputs, which kinda defeats the purpose of making it simple.

Oh absolutely; not disagreeing that it adds an extra step, just making sure it's a viable way of doing it. It might be easier than plugging/unplugging HDMI/DP cables if your case is on the floor, for example. That would be a real pain to do each time, not to mention wearing out the connectors.

 

[tunatime]

Yeah my CAC-1085 was suppose to arrive today but it only just shipped and will come tomorrow.

where are yall getting them at?

 

[SoCali]

where are yall getting them at?

I ordered on Amazon this past Sunday.

 

[elvn]

yeah I'll be buying a ~ $350 - $400 eARC capable receiver for that eventually. They aren't that expensive if you aren't trying to push 4k 120hz video through them, just using one accepting an eARC signal. Those ones made for pushing 4k and 8k video through are much more expensive, and I wouldn't want to do that anyway since it adds lag and the eARC audio from the TV makes everything much simpler.

I tried the corner thing at one point too but some of my displayfusion window placements I have saved go by exact values related to the entire monitor array X and Y axis numbers wise so it still screws it up.

You could probably use displayfusion scripting to a hotkey (and a streamdeck key if you have one with that hotkey) or nvidia's own settings similarly to switch between two saved monitor array profiles but that won't work for my purposes.

 

[kasakka]

Hmmm so I guess this means switching back and fourth between the Club3D adapter and then the normal HDMI port won't be a simple thing with a button press on the remote. Bummer

You could easily setup for example Displayfusion monitor presets so you can swap between the two with a hotkey so you don't have to go to Display settings or NVCP every time to set them up. I swear, why hasn't Nvidia realized that presets for resolution etc switching would be a good idea? I guess for the same reasons their control panel looks like it's from Vista days...

I definitely plan to do something like this when I get my adapter.

 

[MistaSparkul]

You could easily setup for example Displayfusion monitor presets so you can swap between the two with a hotkey so you don't have to go to Display settings or NVCP every time to set them up. I swear, why hasn't Nvidia realized that presets for resolution etc switching would be a good idea? I guess for the same reasons their control panel looks like it's from Vista days...

I definitely plan to do something like this when I get my adapter.

Let me know how it goes.

 

[SoCali]

Is 10 or 0 sharpness considered off/default with input set to PC icon?

 

[kasakka]

Is 10 or 0 sharpness considered off/default with input set to PC icon?

Zero is off afaik. Though it's very difficult to tell.

 

[tacos4me]

Came home on lunch to mine sitting on the front deck, finally. And yeah, thing was worth every penny.

Just been farting around the desktop/web. Not minding 60Hz 4K/4:4:4 for the time being, have one of the Club3D rigs on order at Amazon as well.

 

[mirkendargen]

yeah I'll be buying a ~ $350 - $400 eARC capable receiver for that eventually. They aren't that expensive if you aren't trying to push 4k 120hz video through them, just using one accepting an eARC signal. Those ones made for pushing 4k and 8k video through are much more expensive, and I wouldn't want to do that anyway since it adds lag and the eARC audio from the TV makes everything much simpler.

I tried the corner thing at one point too but some of my displayfusion window placements I have saved go by exact values related to the entire monitor array X and Y axis numbers wise so it still screws it up.

You could probably use displayfusion scripting to a hotkey (and a streamdeck key if you have one with that hotkey) or nvidia's own settings similarly to switch between two saved monitor array profiles but that won't work for my purposes.

Yeah if I got a full blown receiver...

A. I'd have to put it somewhere.
B. I'd need to buy at a bare minimum a sub as well. I'm using the legendary Logitech Z-5500's from 10 years ago still, and while I could plug all the speakers into a receiver I couldn't plug the sub in.

That's coming out to be a pretty expensive proposition that would use a whole lot more desk space just to slightly simplify things. It would take up less desk space to just plug in one of my 24" 1080p monitors and actually run the HDMI signal through to it, heh.

 

[MistaSparkul]

You guys apparently ordered the entire stock of Club3D adapters. Amazon is now listed as sold out lol. I'm still interested in it as 444 would be very useful when running BFI since you are locked to 120fps anyways and given that I've been playing mostly older on games on it I'll be running BFI the majority of the time for now. Only need to switch to gsync for the newest games like Death Stranding and HZD.

 

[SoCali]

I'm getting really annoyed by my window locations/size being reset every time I turn the TV back on. Seems like Fancy Zones gets screwed up too.

 

[sirsad]

Just got mine the other day. Awesome monitor. I've only run into two particularly annoying problems: it doesn't turn back on after Windows puts it to sleep, and I can't seem to get anything other than stereo sound through it via ARC.

Make sure Digital Audio out is set to "pass through" on the CX. The AVR also has to allow control through TV audio and not just ARC.

 

[Enhanced Interrogator]

FYI I just tested BFI at 100Hz and although it works totally fine, the results aren't as clean looking as 120Hz as expected.

Have you tried a custom refresh rate yet, like 80hz? 100hz is standard because of PAL regions, I think. I'm wondering if I could literally run this OLED at any refresh rate with BFI enabled.

And can check for stuttering by going to testufo.com. You'll be able to tell pretty quick of the BFI and refresh rate are out of sync.

 

[Azuel]

Make sure Digital Audio out is set to "pass through" on the CX. The AVR also has to allow control through TV audio and not just ARC.

Hmm, gave that a shot, no luck. Interesting that that's working for you - makes me wonder if maybe my receiver is the problem. Just to confirm, when you say to allow control through TV audio, do you mean CEC or something else? CEC is definitely working between TV and receiver. I've heard rumors that eARC might somehow magically fix this, something about EDID being passed through properly that way. I guess either way I'm looking at potentially needing a new receiver.

 

[Fleat]

I'm getting really annoyed by my window locations/size being reset every time I turn the TV back on. Seems like Fancy Zones gets screwed up too.

It is a paid solution, but DisplayFusion does have "Window Position Profiles" which would allow you to hotkey a window arrangement.

Just got mine the other day. Awesome monitor. I've only run into two particularly annoying problems: it doesn't turn back on after Windows puts it to sleep, and I can't seem to get anything other than stereo sound through it via ARC. Still haven't figured out whether there's a good solution to the second one - dunno if that's an LG-side issue, GPU/Nvidia, or something else. For the sleep thing, I don't know what others are doing, but I'm currently using this hacky python script I cobbled together to wake it up via Wake-on-Lan when keyboard/mouse activity occurs. Figured I'd post it on the off chance someone else finds it useful, or has a better way to get the monitor to turn back on on its own.

from ctypes import Structure, windll, c_uint, sizeof, byref
from wakeonlan import send_magic_packet
import time

class LASTINPUTINFO(Structure):
    _fields_ = [
        ('cbSize', c_uint),
        ('dwTime', c_uint),
    ]

def get_idle_duration():
    lastInputInfo = LASTINPUTINFO()
    lastInputInfo.cbSize = sizeof(lastInputInfo)
    windll.user32.GetLastInputInfo(byref(lastInputInfo))
    millis = windll.kernel32.GetTickCount() - lastInputInfo.dwTime
    return millis / 1000.0

wasIdle = False
while 1:
    time.sleep(1)
    idleTime = get_idle_duration()
    if idleTime > 30:
        if not wasIdle:
            print("Wasn't idle, idle now for " + str(idleTime))
        wasIdle = True
    else:
        if wasIdle:
            print("Was idle, no longer")
            send_magic_packet('64.95.6c.de.c2.2d', ip_address='192.168.1.255')
        wasIdle = False

This is really cool, thanks for posting that. I think I will borrow it and modify it to accept a specific hotkey interaction.

 

[elvn]

I'm getting really annoyed by my window locations being reset every time I turn the TV back on. Seems like Fancy Zones gets screwed up too.

I started using displayfusion to map specific window locations to hotkeys, and those hotkeys to streamdeck buttons with icons showing where the window goes. It worked well once I put a window in focus but since I can be pretty obsessive about these kinds of things I recently cobbled together script snippets from different displayfusion scripts so that I could use the script's hotkey to a button with each specific app's icon, at least for the apps I most frequently use.

I put some info about it in quotes below:

Each app/button's script:
-checks to see if the app is open
-if it's not open, it launches the app and sets it to specific x, y location with a specific width and height I set for that particular app
-if it can find it open already, it will focus that app.
-it checks to see if the app is minimized. If it's minimized, it will restore it to the specified location I set
-if it's not minimized, it will minimize it. (Another press will restore it to it's specified location).

I omit the location setting for a few apps that I like moving around my monitors "untethered" more but the focus, minimize and restore still works on those.

Any of the open apps can be focused (whether they have app launch buttons or manually selecting them with mouse click or the tab menus) and then later moved around with my other generic window location buttons, but the ones with specific locations coded to them will pop back there to their "home position" if their app icon button is hit again in a focus/min/restore button pressing cycle. This allows me to set windows in perfect positions like tiles on different monitors.

It works really well. A few of the microsoft store/metro apps are a little finicky with their launcher and window/exe identification so I had to use some workarounds but overall it's working great.

I also have sub sets of buttons for specific apps so when you click their icon on the main button array, it drills down into their full button "folder" with more buttons. This is useful for things like foobar or tidal with play/pause fwd/back, random, and hotkey'd buttons specific to their volume up/down, etc.

I made a subset of buttons with shareX screenshot and video recording types each to their own button too. In that array of buttons is a screenshot folder icon that opens my file explorer to that location of my screenshots. I also have a pictures folder and a downloads folder launcher in there, and a gimp 2 image editing launcher/focus button.

Displayfusion does have some window remembering functionality to it by default like Fleat said in the previous reply but I find this more detailed way much more functional.

There is a bit more that I did than what is in the quotes and a lot more that is possible with displayfusion (and a streamdeck) but that gives some examples. If anyone is interested in the scripts let me know and I'll post them so you get an idea.

 

[sirsad]

Hmm, gave that a shot, no luck. Interesting that that's working for you - makes me wonder if maybe my receiver is the problem. Just to confirm, when you say to allow control through TV audio, do you mean CEC or something else? CEC is definitely working between TV and receiver. I've heard rumors that eARC might somehow magically fix this, something about EDID being passed through properly that way. I guess either way I'm looking at potentially needing a new receiver.

With my Denon AVR X3400H, it is under Setup assistant, "TV Audio Connection". It asks
"Do you want to enable the HDMI control functions of your AV receiver".

This must be yes or it will revert to ARC and 2.1 instead of eARC.

 

[sirsad]

Some info from my setup:

1) My CX48 is 40" away but I will probably move it a bit closer when I work from home.
2) I have been running 1440p 120Hz only due to my GTX 1080.
3) I bought this floor mount but just received it and haven't attached it yet.
4) I've been playing Wow and Wow classic only and its been great.
5) I've spent 2 days working from home (software) at 1440p and I don't see any issues.

 

[mirkendargen]

Have you tried a custom refresh rate yet, like 80hz? 100hz is standard because of PAL regions, I think. I'm wondering if I could literally run this OLED at any refresh rate with BFI enabled.

And can check for stuttering by going to testufo.com. You'll be able to tell pretty quick of the BFI and refresh rate are out of sync.

I just did some quick tests at 1440p:

125hz (!) - Accepts the signal, but frame skips with BFI on and off. I worked my way down from 130hz to find this is where it would start accepting a signal.
110hz - Accepts the signal, but frame skips with BFI on and off (it's odd that this is having frame skips even with BFI off and it's possible I'm doing something wrong)
100hz - Accepts the signal and everything looks good as previously reported.
93hz - Accepts the signal, BFI does not seem to be working right, but I can't put my finger on it exactly. There is no stuttering, but the star background on the UFO test is noticeably blurry compared to 60hz or 120hz.
90hz - Accepts the signal, BFI does not seem to be working right, but I can't put my finger on it exactly. There is no stuttering, but the star background on the UFO test is noticeably blurry compared to 60hz or 120hz.

 

[MelonSplitter]

I wonder how many people here are using DisplayPort vs Hdmi?

 

[Enhanced Interrogator]

I just did some quick tests at 1440p:

125hz (!) - Accepts the signal, but frame skips with BFI on and off. I worked my way down from 130hz to find this is where it would start accepting a signal.
110hz - Accepts the signal, but frame skips with BFI on and off (it's odd that this is having frame skips even with BFI off and it's possible I'm doing something wrong)
100hz - Accepts the signal and everything looks good as previously reported.
93hz - Accepts the signal, BFI does not seem to be working right, but I can't put my finger on it exactly. There is no stuttering, but the star background on the UFO test is noticeably blurry compared to 60hz or 120hz.
90hz - Accepts the signal, BFI does not seem to be working right, but I can't put my finger on it exactly. There is no stuttering, but the star background on the UFO test is noticeably blurry compared to 60hz or 120hz.

Awesome thanks for the info. Sounds like problem with the duration of the black frame at non-standard refresh rates.

Did you hit "info" or whatever on your remote to see if the TV was reporting the correct refresh rate?

 

[MistaSparkul]

Awesome thanks for the info. Sounds like problem with the duration of the black frame at non-standard refresh rates.

Did you hit "info" or whatever on your remote to see if the TV was reporting the correct refresh rate?

I couldn't even get 90Hz to work. Resulted in No Signal. Same with 80Hz.

EDIT: This was at 4k btw, not 1440p

 

[Enhanced Interrogator]

I couldn't even get 90Hz to work. Resulted in No Signal. Same with 80Hz.

EDIT: This was at 4k btw, not 1440p

Maybe your GPU was trying to output in 4:4:4 instead of 4:2:0. Maybe if you switched 4k60 to 4:2:0 before you switched over to higher refresh rates. Doubt it would make a difference though. Custom resolutions might default to 4:4:4. That would explain why mirkendargen could at least get signal at 1440p.

 

[mirkendargen]

Awesome thanks for the info. Sounds like problem with the duration of the black frame at non-standard refresh rates.

Did you hit "info" or whatever on your remote to see if the TV was reporting the correct refresh rate?

If there's a way to get the TV to show what signal it thinks it's getting, I haven't found it.

 

[MistaSparkul]

Maybe your GPU was trying to output in 4:4:4 instead of 4:2:0. Maybe if you switched 4k60 to 4:2:0 before you switched over to higher refresh rates. Doubt it would make a difference though. Custom resolutions might default to 4:4:4. That would explain why mirkendargen could at least get signal at 1440p.

Yeah start from 120Hz 420 or 60Hz 420 doesn't make any difference.

 

[mirkendargen]

Maybe your GPU was trying to output in 4:4:4 instead of 4:2:0. Maybe if you switched 4k60 to 4:2:0 before you switched over to higher refresh rates. Doubt it would make a difference though. Custom resolutions might default to 4:4:4. That would explain why mirkendargen could at least get signal at 1440p.

Yeah in NVCP at least there's no way to specify chroma subsampling in custom resolutions so you won't get anything above 60hz at 4k without HDMI 2.1. That's why I tested at 1440p.

 

[tybert7]

I've been progressively working myself down, and am now doing WFH desktop work at OLED light 0 on a sunny day with no trouble seeing anything. STAY AWAY BURN IN!

I've already dropped OLED light to 50 (down from 80 and further from 100) for desktop use. It's super bright already, too bright at night to be honest. I wondered if this tv would be less bright than my Sony x800D at full screen, but no.

rtings lists the sony at ~400 nits across the whole display, no local dimming, just a flooded backlight. The lg oleds for full screen are listed as being in the 100-200 nit range for full screen, but I can say that is not true based on my viewing. It's noticeably brighter whites on this oled at night, to the point where I have to turn the oled light down to keep from hurting my eyes with the brightness on desktop. If it stays on a white screen the screen does dim, but honestly from what I've seen it's not a bother at all.

It's strange, there was so much talk about text quality being iffy, and other issues, I'm just not seeing any of it. Maybe it's because I'm not bothering with higher than 4K@60Hz with any chroma tricks. I'm just waiting for better gpus.

 

[Enhanced Interrogator]

Well based on this info, I guess I'm sticking with my CRT's for another year. From the sounds of it, the combination of rich colors + scanning/strobing image + refresh rate flexibility is not available in OLED yet.

Like on my CRT, I rarely play at 60hz or 120hz, it's always somewhere in between, like 80hz or 90hz, maybe higher if it's a competitive game and I have some headroom.

It's certainly possible for LG to update the TV to have proper BFI at arbitrary refresh rates, but since hardly anybody's asking for it, I don't think it's going to happen

 

[MistaSparkul]

Well based on this info, I guess I'm sticking with my CRT's for another year. From the sounds of it, the combination of rich colors + scanning/strobing image + refresh rate flexibility is not available in OLED yet.

Like on my CRT, I rarely play at 60hz or 120hz, it's always somewhere in between, like 80hz or 90hz, maybe higher if it's a competitive game and I have some headroom.

It's certainly possible for LG to update the TV to have proper BFI at arbitrary refresh rates, but since hardly anybody's asking for it, I don't think it's going to happen

I would certainly keep my CRTs too if I still had any. Good lord I just switched back to gsync to play Prey since I can't do a locked 120/100fps and the motion clairty difference going from BFI back to sample and hold is really jarring.

 

[l88bastard]

Well based on this info, I guess I'm sticking with my CRT's for another year. From the sounds of it, the combination of rich colors + scanning/strobing image + refresh rate flexibility is not available in OLED yet.

Like on my CRT, I rarely play at 60hz or 120hz, it's always somewhere in between, like 80hz or 90hz, maybe higher if it's a competitive game and I have some headroom.

It's certainly possible for LG to update the TV to have proper BFI at arbitrary refresh rates, but since hardly anybody's asking for it, I don't think it's going to happen

BFI 120 High is excellent on the 48CX.....you can finally throw away those CRTs!
Well maybe not until we get the 3000 series gpus and that additional horsepower.

 

[Vega]

Yes you could set whichever you're not using as disconnected, but then you have to go switch that any time you want to switch inputs, which kinda defeats the purpose of making it simple.

Of course simply disabling and re-enabling displays in software is easier than constantly connecting and disconnecting HDMI cables and wearing physical connections out.

 

[SoCali]

I took some measurements and made a really dumb graph for those of you interested in dialing in brightness without a meter. Used an i1 with the TV in ISF Expert Dark (warm 2) gamma 2.2 with PC icon, no other changes. I tried a bunch of different window sizes and settled on measuring these on a 50% one that is similar to my use case (browser window). Anyway, a OLED light of 40 is 120nits. After roughly 50 OLED light you hit the ABL wall full field.

If anyone else has an i1 who could corroborate this it would be great. Or if there's a way I can take better measurements I'm all ears.

EDIT: I'm also really happy with my TV's 5% grey uniformity. This is at max brightness and overexposed to really show the vertical bands but in real life it's very hard to see.