Pretty much the same reply I got as well. If it happens again, I am going to look at a different board vendor. I know every company has their own issues, but this is just plain ticktarded.
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Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master won't power on - (temporary) solution
- Thread starter cold_steel
- Start date
I'd recommend MSI, I've had good luck with them and their support over the past 20 years.
Kinda sucks there are so few motherboard manufacturers these days, there used to be dozens of them.
aamacgregor
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I got a replacement Auorus Master finally today. If I experience the issue with the new board then I'll be changing it for something else (unless anyone finds a solution). With that in mind, if anyone finds that a new CMOS battery helps, please report it here. Also, if anyone still gets it happen, I'm wondering if flashing both bioses with the latest firmware might help (line what GiGaBiTe mentioned)?
Weak or dead CMOS batteries can cause boards to act erratically or not even POST. I've come across quite a few laptops, desktops and even servers which would appear completely dead because of a flat CMOS battery, but came back to life when it was replaced. It's especially irritating on laptops which have soldered in batteries somewhere on the logic board and you have to rig up a solution.
As for the dual BIOS feature, it looks like the board has it, at least according to Reddit:
There's either a switch somewhere on the board, or an automatic switch in firmware if it detects a borked BIOS. I'm only familiar with the latter method, as that is what was used on Gigabyte boards in the past I've owned. I'm not entirely sure how to tell a board how to flash the borked BIOS/UEFI, as when I had it happen, it did it on its own. I'm guessing it works the same way on UEFI, but I can't be sure since I don't own one of those boards to test.
I just had this problem occur to me today. My system has a gigabyte X570 Aorus master And a Ryzen 9 3950X. I thought my PSU was done for but the lights were still on and it worked on a different system and it worked fine and then I found this post and it saved me. I took the CMOS battery out and it he system booted straightaway. Fortunately for I have a spare board that was sent by amazon when my first order was misplaced so I always have the option to just swap the boards but that is the last option I want to take. I’ll send a ticket to gigabyte about the issue so that they’re aware that it’s more widespread than originally think and I guess we’ll have to wait and see if a fix is issued with the next bios.
cold_steel
Gawd
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Thanks for spending the time to send them a ticket. Hopefully if enough of us do they can at least acknowledge the problem.
scoobert
Limp Gawd
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- Feb 26, 2005
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That will never happen. They are trained to never say its a common problem whether it is or not.
Its about lawyers and liability. The first time they say (if ever) its a known problem it will be in a press release from a high up.
The problem is that not all problems are fixable with a BIOS patch.
If it's a fundamental design problem with their CMOS circuitry, they can't write code to fix it.
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Harlequin
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- Mar 4, 2005
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- 47
Heh it's been 15 years since I last logged on here... THANK YOU cold_steel for so concisely describing both the problem and solution in one post such that a Google search just saved my ass. (I had replaced the PSU with no luck, reseated components and tried all the other low hanging fruit, so the next steps were about to get ugly...)
Motherboard was x570 Aorus Master, the computer had been working fine for months then without warning nothing happened on power-on, no lights, no fans, sometimes the MB onboard power button would light (and one at the back) but any attempt to start the system would kill those as well. Exactly as you described, and your battery solution (pull it, wait 15 seconds, put it back) worked perfectly. Thanks again!
Motherboard was x570 Aorus Master, the computer had been working fine for months then without warning nothing happened on power-on, no lights, no fans, sometimes the MB onboard power button would light (and one at the back) but any attempt to start the system would kill those as well. Exactly as you described, and your battery solution (pull it, wait 15 seconds, put it back) worked perfectly. Thanks again!
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Harlequin
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I tested mine before putting it back, it was a CR2032 and measured 3.22V. That's of limited use though because I wasn't checking it under load, but it weakly suggests the cell is good and has a fair bit of life left. (A quick look online suggests 3.1V to 3.34V as the unloaded voltage people see with new/unused cells, and that the mAh rating for Energizer CR2032 used 2V under load as the cutoff). If the problem comes back I'll replace it with a new cell, but for the time being the MB is still using the same cell.
For anyone else testing, one way to test CR2032 under load is to put a ~400 ohm resistor in parallel (eg connecting the multimeter probes) and then when measuring let the reading settle for 2 seconds.
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Monster Mod
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Hi everyone! I stumbled across this thread a few days ago and it's making me very nervous because I just built a new computer and spent $700 on a Gigabyte X570 Aorus Xtreme so I had to join. I waited until the growing pains and initial posting problem seemed to be solved before building my system so this new problem has me concerned. I don't know if this is affecting the Xtreme or just the Master but I'm definitely following this thread now.
I could be wrong but I always thought the CMOS battery was really only used if the motherboard was completely disconnected from the line voltage? I've had computers with the same battery for over 10 years with no problem. The only time I had a CMOS battery fail was because I left an old Win XP computer in storage for about 6 months and when I tried to use it the battery had failed.
I'm by no stretch of the imagination an expert but here's my thoughts on what it could be...
1. The batteries are being drained.
Was there a bad batch of batteries that Gigabyte used? Maybe people who have experienced this could post the manufacture date of their board.
Is it a design flaw of the board itself and it's drawing more current than it should from the battery? If that's the case there is probably not a lot that can be done, a BIOS update probably couldn't do much to fix it. The only thing I could think of to resolve a situation like that would be a higher capacity battery or a battery shaped adapter that could be connected to a bigger battery (rechargeable?) that could be stashed behind the MB tray or even outside the computer case.
2. The batteries and or contacts on the motherboard are oxidizing.
I have noticed this a lot lately so maybe battery manufactures are using a different metal? Several times our car has failed to start with a defective remote warning, every time the battery is fine and all I have to do is open the remote, remove the battery, wipe it and the contacts and reinstall it. I've also noticed with the remotes for our TVs and things the remotes act like the battery is going dead but just rolling the batteries to "clean" the contacts fixes the problem.
For anyone who has had this problem do you have to remove the battery and wait x amount of time or can you remove and immediately reinstall the battery? If the battery/contacts are oxidizing has anyone tried to apply some dielectric grease to the battery contacts? You can get small pouches cheap or free at any automotive store, people usually use it on the connectors when they install headlight bulbs. It's non-conductive and it seals the contact point to insulate and protect it from the elements that could cause it to oxidize, in this case just air.
To truly diagnose this problem we probably need more info, the most basic being the voltage the batteries when this happens. Are the batteries drained or does removing and reinstalling the same battery fix it? Are the batteries/contacts oxidizing?
I could be wrong but I always thought the CMOS battery was really only used if the motherboard was completely disconnected from the line voltage? I've had computers with the same battery for over 10 years with no problem. The only time I had a CMOS battery fail was because I left an old Win XP computer in storage for about 6 months and when I tried to use it the battery had failed.
I'm by no stretch of the imagination an expert but here's my thoughts on what it could be...
1. The batteries are being drained.
Was there a bad batch of batteries that Gigabyte used? Maybe people who have experienced this could post the manufacture date of their board.
Is it a design flaw of the board itself and it's drawing more current than it should from the battery? If that's the case there is probably not a lot that can be done, a BIOS update probably couldn't do much to fix it. The only thing I could think of to resolve a situation like that would be a higher capacity battery or a battery shaped adapter that could be connected to a bigger battery (rechargeable?) that could be stashed behind the MB tray or even outside the computer case.
2. The batteries and or contacts on the motherboard are oxidizing.
I have noticed this a lot lately so maybe battery manufactures are using a different metal? Several times our car has failed to start with a defective remote warning, every time the battery is fine and all I have to do is open the remote, remove the battery, wipe it and the contacts and reinstall it. I've also noticed with the remotes for our TVs and things the remotes act like the battery is going dead but just rolling the batteries to "clean" the contacts fixes the problem.
For anyone who has had this problem do you have to remove the battery and wait x amount of time or can you remove and immediately reinstall the battery? If the battery/contacts are oxidizing has anyone tried to apply some dielectric grease to the battery contacts? You can get small pouches cheap or free at any automotive store, people usually use it on the connectors when they install headlight bulbs. It's non-conductive and it seals the contact point to insulate and protect it from the elements that could cause it to oxidize, in this case just air.
To truly diagnose this problem we probably need more info, the most basic being the voltage the batteries when this happens. Are the batteries drained or does removing and reinstalling the same battery fix it? Are the batteries/contacts oxidizing?
All of the mobo makers use the same or similar batteries and battery holders.
If that was the issue, you'd see all of the mobo makers with the same problem but you don't.
The CMOS technology RAM chip is used because it requires super low current draw to maintain
it's volatile memory cells. It retains the setup data used/generated by the BIOS firmware and the
Real Time Clock data (RTC).
I'm guessing Gigabyte uses the same or similar CMOS parts as the other mobo makers too.
There are other factors involved like timing, noise, transient noise, etc.
Have been in electronics and IT for a long time..... this "feels" like a design problem.
Sometimes there are design decisions made to save a buck or sometimes just because
"They've always done it that way.".
Whatever the issue is, Gigabyte seems happy to live with it.
ETA: I know years ago the CMOS RAM was a discrete part, I think these days it may be part
of the Intel/AMD chipset. Not sure on that. If it is part of the chipset, then not sure what the
deal is with Gigabyte. All the mobo makers use the same exact chipsets.
ETA#2: Can any of you guys get the board to POST without clearing the CMOS once this happens?
What does the time & date reset to after clearing the CMOS?
ETA#3: Is this AMD platform boards only or also Intel platform boards? (not starting anything, honest! lol)
Are they all dual BIOS boards with the problem?
.
If that was the issue, you'd see all of the mobo makers with the same problem but you don't.
The CMOS technology RAM chip is used because it requires super low current draw to maintain
it's volatile memory cells. It retains the setup data used/generated by the BIOS firmware and the
Real Time Clock data (RTC).
I'm guessing Gigabyte uses the same or similar CMOS parts as the other mobo makers too.
There are other factors involved like timing, noise, transient noise, etc.
Have been in electronics and IT for a long time..... this "feels" like a design problem.
Sometimes there are design decisions made to save a buck or sometimes just because
"They've always done it that way.".
Whatever the issue is, Gigabyte seems happy to live with it.
ETA: I know years ago the CMOS RAM was a discrete part, I think these days it may be part
of the Intel/AMD chipset. Not sure on that. If it is part of the chipset, then not sure what the
deal is with Gigabyte. All the mobo makers use the same exact chipsets.
ETA#2: Can any of you guys get the board to POST without clearing the CMOS once this happens?
What does the time & date reset to after clearing the CMOS?
ETA#3: Is this AMD platform boards only or also Intel platform boards? (not starting anything, honest! lol)
Are they all dual BIOS boards with the problem?
.
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Monster Mod
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I was thinking the same thing but the oxidation issue just came to me last night since I have had that problem with other things that use similar batteries so I just thought I would post it. If there is a oxidation issue adding a little dielectric grease couldn't hurt but as you say it would be affecting all motherboards.
I also forgot to mention something in my original post... is it the act of removing the battery and resetting the BIOS that is fixing the problem or is the battery losing it's connection and removing and reinstalling it just reestablishing the connection?
When the Gigabyte X570 boards had the original posting issue you would get post codes and it would hang at a certain point, RAM I think. If people are getting no attempt to post at all and no post codes or ability to get into the BIOS that would suggest to me it's not the same posting problem that Gigabyte had in the early X570 days. That would leave failed/drained batteries or a lost connection as the only option. If reinstalling the same battery works (not just because you are resetting the BIOS) then that should eliminate a dead battery.
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I don't have a multimeter now to test since I'm under lockdown but since I'm interested in this topic (partly due to being interested in an X570 Elite)
A few months before the lockdown, I was able to test 2 CR2032 batteries on a Fluke multitester w/o load:
1. a CR2032 from a Core2Duo computer on light encoding duties. It read somewhere between 2.9-3.1V without load AFAIK. Computer not exhibiting any weird symptoms.
2. a CR2032 from our Toyota FOB, reading 2.7V without load. It worked fine then, but the car was complaining about the FOB having a weak battery. The car stopped responding to the key after about 6 weeks.
If your battery reads 3.22V, that SHOULD still be fine, yes? Are the current GB X570 boards less tolerant of lower voltages?
I've done field service for a long time, the rule of thumb is to replace the CR2032 if it reads under 3v.
It's better to see 3.1v and above.
Removing the battery forces the CMOS RAM to lose all of it's data and the mobo then has to start over
with default settings which should always allow the mobo to POST.
You guys who are having this issue, try relaxing the memory settings a bit and see if that resolves the problem.
Try turning off XMP and even run the memory at 2133 to see if that helps. That's not desirable as a permanent
situation, just for troubleshooting.
I've seen suggestions that this could still be a memory compatibility and memory training problem.
ETA: Monster Mod, do you live in a humid or coastal area? The rapid corrosion is very common in that case.
.
It's better to see 3.1v and above.
Removing the battery forces the CMOS RAM to lose all of it's data and the mobo then has to start over
with default settings which should always allow the mobo to POST.
You guys who are having this issue, try relaxing the memory settings a bit and see if that resolves the problem.
Try turning off XMP and even run the memory at 2133 to see if that helps. That's not desirable as a permanent
situation, just for troubleshooting.
I've seen suggestions that this could still be a memory compatibility and memory training problem.
ETA: Monster Mod, do you live in a humid or coastal area? The rapid corrosion is very common in that case.
.
I will look into doing that if it happens again, although I don't think it's related to memory. It worked flawlessly from August until March. Then it happened again a month later. On the Gigabyte forum, there was a user with almost the same timeline as myself. Almost too similar to be a coincidence.
Intermittent problems like that are the worst.
Especially when it "almost never" happens.
That can be very difficult to narrow down.
.
Agreed. I spent 20 years in the Air Force working with the weapons systems on F-15's and F-16's and the intermittent problems were the worst. At a minimum, if it happens again, I am replacing the battery. Thank you for your input, it was greatly appreciated!Intermittent problems like that are the worst.
Especially when it "almost never" happens.
That can be very difficult to narrow down.
.
Monster Mod
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It is very humid here in the summer 70%+ and very dry in the winter 20%-. I'm aware of the issues humidity can cause and I'm very sensitive to humidity, I'm like a human humidistat, so I have a whole house humidifier and dehumidifier and I maintain a relative humidity of 40%-45% year round.
I was also thinking has anyone tried to just reset the BIOS without removing the battery?
Also for the people having the problem what revision Master board do you have, 1.0 or 1.1? My Xtreme is a revision 1.1 and the only difference that is visible is the addition of a Thunderbolt port, it's also the only difference I can find in the specs or anywhere online but it's possible that Gigabyte quietly made other changes to correct a problem.
Harlequin
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Mine also has the port
No problem, hope we all get it figured out.
My little brother was a crew chief working on F-15's and F-16's.
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cold_steel
Gawd
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- Jun 27, 2004
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- 576
Yes, the thing that makes this issue so weird is that just resetting CMOS doesn’t revive the board. In the instances I’ve personally dealt with I had to reset CMOS and also remove the battery for a bit.
When it's happened to me, the "Clear CMOS" button isn't even illuminated. It only illuminates once I pull the battery and reinstall it.
§kynet
Limp Gawd
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- Jun 11, 2003
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For reference I tested 3 new Sony CMOS batteries the average was 3.254 volts. As for load from the motherboard it is nearly zero that's why a CMOS battery can last 15 years.
Monster Mod
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I wonder if the LED in the "Clear CMOS" button is powered by the battery? If it is could that be the problem? I'm sure I'm wrong but if the LED is powered by the battery and it won't illuminate until the battery is removed and reinstalled that would suggest to me that the battery has actually lost contact. That hypothesis is probably not correct since I'm pretty sure the LED goes out when I turn off my power supply which would suggest it's actually running off the power supply. If it happened to me I would still apply some dielectric grease to the contacts, it couldn't hurt anything and it could eliminate a variable no matter how unlikely it is.
If this is still related to the original post issue from the early days of X570 that's concerning since those issue have been resolved for a while now. For anyone who has had this issue what BIOS and Chipset driver are you running? Here's a good thread on the subject and specifically about the Master motherboard. I followed this thread for months before deciding everything had been fixed and it was safe to build my new system and I still get notified if there are new posts...
https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/aorus-x570-master.257392/page-9
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cold_steel
Gawd
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Part of the symptom (documented in the first post of this thread) is that the onboard power button that normally lights up will not be on when this issue is happening, but if you cut power to your PSU and wait 5 mins and then turn the PSU back in, the light will come back on. When you press power, the light will simply turn off.
I don’t think the voltage of the battery has anything to do with what is happening here.
Firstly, I just want to say a huge thank you for cold_steel starting this thread. Like many others this has saved me time and pain going through RMA.
I noticed something strange over the past few days leading up to this event. My Ducky LED keyboard was not lighting up sometimes on reboot - it's almost like the USB port did not have enough power for it and the keyboard itself did not work. I had to plug it in to different ports or reboot a few times until it worked.
Instead of resetting I powered down my system today - the first time in a few days. Suddenly I could not power it back on. No lights on the motherboard, no response to the case power switch, no response from the motherboard power switch, clearing CMOS did not work, removing the power cable and removing all cables/components did not help.
After removing all components and going through the usual isolation tests I was convinced the M/B was dead. I even tested the power supply using the jump start method (disconnected from the motherboard) and the PSU started straight away. I was just about to pack the motherboard in the box for RMA and thought about doing a quick search.
Luckily I found this thread. I tried removing the CMOS battery (power cord disconnected) as advised in this thread - 45mins later I came back cleared the CMOS using the button at the back then plugged the power cord back in and SUCCESS! The PC now boots again.
CMOS battery voltage: 3.13V (measured out of M/B socket)
After reading a few other posts I'm now running the system with the following new BIOS settings and will see how this works.
New BIOS settings
- Settings --> Platform Power --> Power Loading --> Enabled
- Settings --> AMD CBS --> DRAM Controller Config --> DRAM Power Options --> Disabled
System Specs
CPU: Ryzen 9 3900x
Cooler: Corsair H150i PRO
MB: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master v1.0
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 64 GB (4 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory
GPU: Sapphire Radeon RX 5600 XT 6 GB PULSE Video Card
PSU: SeaSonic PRIME Ultra Platinum 650 W 80+
Case: Lian Li O11D XL-X ATX Full Tower Case
SSD's: 2x Sabrent Rocket 4.0 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive
Keyboard: Ducky Shine 7
O/S: Arch Linux (Kernel 5.6.6) [Suspend to RAM ~20mins]
It is really disappointing Gigabyte is not acknowledging this issue. Like others I will lodge a support ticket. I hope they read this forum and understand how widespread this issue is.
I noticed something strange over the past few days leading up to this event. My Ducky LED keyboard was not lighting up sometimes on reboot - it's almost like the USB port did not have enough power for it and the keyboard itself did not work. I had to plug it in to different ports or reboot a few times until it worked.
Instead of resetting I powered down my system today - the first time in a few days. Suddenly I could not power it back on. No lights on the motherboard, no response to the case power switch, no response from the motherboard power switch, clearing CMOS did not work, removing the power cable and removing all cables/components did not help.
After removing all components and going through the usual isolation tests I was convinced the M/B was dead. I even tested the power supply using the jump start method (disconnected from the motherboard) and the PSU started straight away. I was just about to pack the motherboard in the box for RMA and thought about doing a quick search.
Luckily I found this thread. I tried removing the CMOS battery (power cord disconnected) as advised in this thread - 45mins later I came back cleared the CMOS using the button at the back then plugged the power cord back in and SUCCESS! The PC now boots again.
CMOS battery voltage: 3.13V (measured out of M/B socket)
After reading a few other posts I'm now running the system with the following new BIOS settings and will see how this works.
New BIOS settings
- Settings --> Platform Power --> Power Loading --> Enabled
- Settings --> AMD CBS --> DRAM Controller Config --> DRAM Power Options --> Disabled
System Specs
CPU: Ryzen 9 3900x
Cooler: Corsair H150i PRO
MB: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master v1.0
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 64 GB (4 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory
GPU: Sapphire Radeon RX 5600 XT 6 GB PULSE Video Card
PSU: SeaSonic PRIME Ultra Platinum 650 W 80+
Case: Lian Li O11D XL-X ATX Full Tower Case
SSD's: 2x Sabrent Rocket 4.0 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive
Keyboard: Ducky Shine 7
O/S: Arch Linux (Kernel 5.6.6) [Suspend to RAM ~20mins]
It is really disappointing Gigabyte is not acknowledging this issue. Like others I will lodge a support ticket. I hope they read this forum and understand how widespread this issue is.
cold_steel
Gawd
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- Jun 27, 2004
- Messages
- 576
I was seriously going to be happy if this post saved ONE other person from an RMA headache, so seeing this many folks avoid that - is awesome. And thanks for logging a ticket. I don’t care if they ever publicly acknowledge the problem, but I sure would like their dev teams to know about it, and if it can be fixed via bios changes to work on that. No idea at this point if it’s firmware fixable or not.
I was part of the crowd that had a faulty Intel 6 series chipset back in the Sandy Bridge days and Gigabyte replaced my motherboard for free with the new revision - so stranger things have happened.
https://www.anandtech.com/show/4142/intel-discovers-bug-in-6series-chipset-begins-recall
Please keep us posted. I am curious to see if these settings in fact do help. Thanks for posting!
New guy here.
Had the same problem with you guys 2 weeks after I received my newly built PC. After hours of diagnose, tried swapping out the cmos battery to a new(about 3 years old) energizer one and works like a charm.
So fast forward to 3 weeks later which is today, woke up in the morning and same problem once again. Did not bother with other diagnose and swapped out the battery(a few weeks old) for a new one and works as expected.
1 thing I noticed is that the RGB of my ram turned on right after I flipped the switch of my PSU(not the case's power on button) which I am not sure if this occurred to anyone here.
So anyways, I will be trying on my side if turning off xmp would help since I am currently using my PC for work(programming) and for hosting plex and the last thing I want would be to rma with my country on partial lockdown till June.
System Specs
CPU: Ryzen 9 3900x
Cooler: Corsair H150i PRO
MB: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master
RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
GPU: GeForce® GTX 1060 G1 Gaming 6G
PSU: Corsaie HX850 80Plus Platinum
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P600S
SSD: Gigabyte AORUS NVMe Gen4 M.2 1TB
Samsung 970 PRO SSD 512GB
HDD: 4TB WD Black
6TB WD Black
Had the same problem with you guys 2 weeks after I received my newly built PC. After hours of diagnose, tried swapping out the cmos battery to a new(about 3 years old) energizer one and works like a charm.
So fast forward to 3 weeks later which is today, woke up in the morning and same problem once again. Did not bother with other diagnose and swapped out the battery(a few weeks old) for a new one and works as expected.
1 thing I noticed is that the RGB of my ram turned on right after I flipped the switch of my PSU(not the case's power on button) which I am not sure if this occurred to anyone here.
So anyways, I will be trying on my side if turning off xmp would help since I am currently using my PC for work(programming) and for hosting plex and the last thing I want would be to rma with my country on partial lockdown till June.
System Specs
CPU: Ryzen 9 3900x
Cooler: Corsair H150i PRO
MB: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master
RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
GPU: GeForce® GTX 1060 G1 Gaming 6G
PSU: Corsaie HX850 80Plus Platinum
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P600S
SSD: Gigabyte AORUS NVMe Gen4 M.2 1TB
Samsung 970 PRO SSD 512GB
HDD: 4TB WD Black
6TB WD Black
Hello. I made a account just to post on this thread. I've bought the Aorus Master on Ryzen launch day and I've had 0 issues with it until around February this year. I shut down my pc one night and come back the next day and see my PC won't boot at all. It wont even power up. I immediately thought is was a bad PSU. I tested the PSU and seen that wasn't the issue. I would of never imagined that the CMOS battery would be linked to all these problems i'm having booting. So I took it out and put it back in. Then it was able to boot. Over the next few weeks. The problem would resurface every few days and I'll have to keep repeating the process of opening my case, taking my GPU out and take the CMOS out and put it back in. I've finally bought a new CMOS battery that was a Energizer brand. That seems to solve the problem for me I thought. I haven't had no issues for a month until today. I woke up this morning to start my computer and no boot. Did the same process again and got it back running.
Something is draining the battery. I don't know what it is. I'm not a computer expert. But seeing where the CMOS battery is positioned on the Motherboard. I don't know if the GPU heat is causing it to die fast? I have a 2080TI and when its under load it gets real hot in the case. and seeing that the GPU is right over the CMOS battery i don't know if that the cause of the draining of the battery life. Like i said its just a guess. I really don't want the RMA at this point of time, with us quaranteeing and everything. If i do have to RMA i'm just gonna buy a different brand Board
System Specs
CPU: Ryzen 7 3700x
Cooler: Corsair H100i Platinum
MB: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master v1.0
RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory
GPU: Gigabye AORUS GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Xtrme
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G5 80Plus 750W FM
Case: Corsair 570X Crystal
SSD's Inland Premium 2TB SSD 3D NAND M.2 2280 PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive
Crucial MX500SSD 500 GB,SSD Samsung 860 EVO 250GB SSD
HDD: 2TB Seagate Firecuda SSHD, 2TB WD Blue
Something is draining the battery. I don't know what it is. I'm not a computer expert. But seeing where the CMOS battery is positioned on the Motherboard. I don't know if the GPU heat is causing it to die fast? I have a 2080TI and when its under load it gets real hot in the case. and seeing that the GPU is right over the CMOS battery i don't know if that the cause of the draining of the battery life. Like i said its just a guess. I really don't want the RMA at this point of time, with us quaranteeing and everything. If i do have to RMA i'm just gonna buy a different brand Board
System Specs
CPU: Ryzen 7 3700x
Cooler: Corsair H100i Platinum
MB: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master v1.0
RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory
GPU: Gigabye AORUS GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Xtrme
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G5 80Plus 750W FM
Case: Corsair 570X Crystal
SSD's Inland Premium 2TB SSD 3D NAND M.2 2280 PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive
Crucial MX500SSD 500 GB,SSD Samsung 860 EVO 250GB SSD
HDD: 2TB Seagate Firecuda SSHD, 2TB WD Blue
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cold_steel
Gawd
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2004
- Messages
- 576
Welcome to [H] Lam! My issues haven’t been as frequent, but it’s been about month for me this cycle- I just can’t imagine this issue truly being linked to the battery voltage- but it’s interesting to hear that your much more frequent problem was at least helped by a fresh battery.
Also interesting to see you having this issue on a 3700X as something earlier in the thread pointed out that most of us having the issue are using 3900x or 3950x chips.
If you haven’t yet, please log a ticket with Gigabyte describing your issue as well - we are still trying to get their attention unfortunately.
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So glad I found this thread...I had the same symptoms this morning - no power apart from a red light on the MB power button (which disappears as soon as you try to turn PC on). Was getting ready to order a new PSU, but was perplexed when it passed the paper clip test. Did a Google search and found this forum. Following the instructions on this thread, I replaced the CMOS battery and was able to boot up ok. For information, this was an Aorus Master MB with 3700X CPU in a BeQuiet case (& 1000 watt PSU) and Aorus 5700XT GPU.
Have the same Problem as you guys. So far it happened three times. After writing back and forth with Customer Service and them being not very helpful one of them send me the F12e Bios to try out. Was just wondering if any of you got access to it as well and tried it already before update. I did attach the File they sent but I'm obviously not gonna take responsibility for it. Probably wouldn't recommend flashing to a Bios Version from a random Guy on the Internet anyway. But in case someone want's to try it here it is.
cold_steel
Gawd
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2004
- Messages
- 576
No they never let me know about a beta bios, but I also gave up with their support case about a month ago too- maybe a good sign? Did you happen to try it out?
KingGlade
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2016
- Messages
- 176
Does this only affect the Aorus Master or all Gigabyte motherboards including the Aorus Extreme? A friend of mine would like to buy that motherboard since the chipset is fan less. I would hate to recommend the board if it has this battery problem.