Radeon VII Owner's Club!

I honestly would trade, but i need cash for my business more, im making thread put it up for sale $450-$500 shipped 2-day usps.


If I were not going to be buying a 3700/3800/3900 Zen 2 cpu in a week I would take that off your hands right now...that is an insane deal. You should be able to get at least $550 with the GPU block and the stock HSF included. There is a pretty decent demand for them in the content creation circles...


I am going to be both happy and sad if Navi 50th Edition comes out swinging and is as fast +/- 10% of the VII. I will be happy since that will give AMD some great sales and it will bode well for big Navi this winter/next spring but sad that we spent $699+$150 for GPU blocks in order to get the performance from the card it should have came with from the factory. AMD should have shipped the card with an AIO on it like Fury X, or even a fan/AIO hybrid since the GPU and HBM stacks are right next to each other.

I think my 1600 @ 4.1Ghz (sold my 2700 off while I could get a good return on it) is definitely holding me back @ 1440P 120hz. Zen 2 @ 4.4~4.8Ghz (fingers crossed) AC OC should offer a 20~35% improvement in minimum FPS....Dont get me wrong FreeSync is a gift from the Gods, but I want to crank my eye candy even higher and stay above ~90+FPS in modern titles.
 
So I decided to mount the updated AIO (M02). There are a different set of issues with this one.

There are two M3x5 screws that attach the PCB to the cooler. If I put one of them in, this happens on the opposite side of the card.

PCB bending with M3x5_2.jpg


Meaning that the standoffs aren't the right length and the car is no longer parallel to the cooler when either of them is mounted. If you mount both the card bends in the high spot between the two screws (the GPU itself).

If I don't use the M3x5 screws the PCB remains straight.

PCB straigh without M3x5.jpg


Problem is that the standoffs for mounting the back plate to the cooler also look to be slightly too short. For now I have not really tightened them down all that much.

Lolz
 
This card is really loud tbh. So I did a little mod and removed the 3 fans and top part they are connected to. I then used some zip ties and tied 2x120mm noctua fans. I'm getting 15-20C decreases in both GPU core and Tjunction temps with the noise being much reduced. And that's an apples to apples comparison, I used the same profile I had for stock vs my mod. I can post some pics if anyone is interested.
 
This card is really loud tbh. So I did a little mod and removed the 3 fans and top part they are connected to. I then used some zip ties and tied 2x120mm noctua fans. I'm getting 15-20C decreases in both GPU core and Tjunction temps with the noise being much reduced. And that's an apples to apples comparison, I used the same profile I had for stock vs my mod. I can post some pics if anyone is interested.
Yep, show us your handy work.
 
Yep, show us your handy work.


2nd ! I love simple mods that help. I love having custom water but I do miss the ability to tear things down in a hurry.

What was your card's boosy with the stock and then the semi ghetto mod?

Have you tried any undervoltibg?
 
So this will give you a better idea of the issue with the M02 version of the cooler.

annotated AIO picture.png
 
Okay here we go.

DSC02747.JPG DSC02748.JPG DSC02749.JPG

So a couple of things to note. Ideally I'd have the same fans on there (Noctua NF-F12) but I only had one spare F12 and didn't want to go raid my main PC for another. So I figured I'd give a spare S12A (case fan) a try and see. As you can see from the pics the downside to this is the fans are taller than the card. Also if you attempt this make sure to leave the zipties with a bit of wiggle room because it may need to move a bit depending on what mobo you have. This is an old Z87-plus that I have on my test bench atm.

I think I used roughly 10 zip ties, 8 on the corners and 2 for the fan connection in the center. This should fit in a case without issue. You will have to take off the case mounting bracket and the 4 screws that hold the fans on the stock cooler. It took roughly 30m-1hr.
 
2nd ! I love simple mods that help. I love having custom water but I do miss the ability to tear things down in a hurry.

What was your card's boosy with the stock and then the semi ghetto mod?

Have you tried any undervoltibg?

Yes, those numbers are based on a mining custom settings config. Basically capped at 1725mhz core, 1100mhz mem and 950mV. I'll try stock profile and letting it boost on Heaven and see what it does today.
 
So round 2 of the AIO also has issues.

-----
The responsible department has checked your photos. The mounting was good and your graphic card has no new parts on it.

It seems that the water block which you have receive has a small produktion mistake. Normally the water block should be straight to and shouldn´t have an angle.

If you want we can send you a tested water block again. Do you want an Eiswolf again or do you want our Eisblock?

Let me know and have a nice day.
-----

They should just pull the AIO out of production and give up on it.

/sigh
 
Geez, I'm kinda glad I bought an EK block. I haven't really seen people having issues with them so I hope I don't have issues when I put it on (I have not built my loop yet, waiting for Ryzen 3900X to do a system rebuild).
 
Geez, I'm kinda glad I bought an EK block. I haven't really seen people having issues with them so I hope I don't have issues when I put it on (I have not built my loop yet, waiting for Ryzen 3900X to do a system rebuild).

They are going to send me the stand alone block / radiator / res+pump / coolant for near close to free. They also refunded my card. It has been a bit of a hassle, but they have provided good customer service/support to me. If the card still boosts decently I will have a nearly "free" card that is a huge upgrade from the 1060 it replaced.
 
Recently bought an radeon vii, is it worth putting it under water?

I was thinking about the Eiswolf but..
 
They are going to send me the stand alone block / radiator / res+pump / coolant for near close to free. They also refunded my card. It has been a bit of a hassle, but they have provided good customer service/support to me. If the card still boosts decently I will have a nearly "free" card that is a huge upgrade from the 1060 it replaced.

Well it seems like you will eventually come out sitting pretty nicely then.

Recently bought an radeon vii, is it worth putting it under water?

I was thinking about the Eiswolf but..

Honestly the VII overclocks pretty well. It looks like 2050-2100Mhz should be pretty easy to sustain under water. I will post up results in a few weeks when I get my loop put together.
 
So with the stock profile it boosts to 1800 core or so and stays below 70C on the GPU and Tj roughly 90C. When I put the fans to 100% and do the auto GPU OC option it is 1950-2000 with gpu temp in the upper 70s and Tj at 110-115. I'm sure it would be better if I had another NF-F12 on there but as-is it's really quiet and cool for mining purposes.
 
Hi there,
I bought xfx radeon vii yesterday, and i'm not sure if I should return it - the idea is to put it under water - but i'm not sure this specific card is worth keeping. (EK or Bykski.)

It has Samsung HBM2 memory modules so its slower than the Hynix modules.

I ran couple games/benchmarks (without changing anything except fan curve to be more aggressive in hope for better thermals.), i'll only list doom here as its the easiest example.
Running @ stock core 1807MHz:1125 mV, and mem 1000MHz
doom 2016 nightmare @ 4k i was getting temps in Tj max 120'C with fans @100% and (I guess) thermal threshold shutdown.
(i figured the shutdowns were related with Tj max, not with actual hardware or psu)

after some tinkering around I had undervolted 1807Mhz@950mV with -15% power limit,
doom 2016 nightmare @4k i was getting temps in Tj max 104'C with fans @100% without thermal threshold shutdown.
(quite playable at ~80FPS avg)

(obviously game was running, and stressing GPU for at least 30min)
Note: I have quite decent airflow in the rack, and literally its the single device that generates those temps. VRM is also aircooled clocked at 650Hz it never reaches more than 40'C at full load.
(cpu sits with waterblock, rad outside the rack.)


Question
With those high junction temps, should I still keep the card or swap it for another one?
 
Last edited:
Hi there,
I bought xfx radeon vii yesterday, and i'm not sure if I should return it - the idea is to put it under water - but i'm not sure this specific card is worth keeping. (EK or Bykski.)

I ran couple games/benchmarks (without changing anything except fan curve to be more aggressive in hope for better thermals.), i'll only list doom here as its the easiest example.
Running @ stock core 1807MHz:1125 mV, and mem 1000MHz
doom 2016 nightmare @ 4k i was getting temps in Tj max 120'C with fans @100% and (I guess) thermal threshold shutdown.
(i figured the shutdowns were related with Tj max, not with actual hardware or psu)

after some tinkering around I had undervolted 1807Mhz@950mV with -15% power limit,
doom 2016 nightmare @4k i was getting temps in Tj max 104'C with fans @100% without thermal threshold shutdown.
(quite playable at ~80FPS avg)

(obviously game was running, and stressing GPU for at least 30min)

It has Samsung HBM2 memory modules so its slower than the Hynix modules.

Question
With those high junction temps, should I still keep the card or swap it for another one?

120C :eek: I thought the thing throttled at 115C.

Swap it, or if you’re more ballsy tighten the screws or repaste it. Those temps are unacceptable. I believe there were some people that took the washers off and tightened the screws that held the heatsink on. Not sure, been a while. I think there was a mfg issue where the air cooler isn’t nearly tight enough.

When I waterblocked mine I had to use a (relatively) ton of paste to get the temps decent on mine. I added some extra around the edges of the die as well. The “normal” amount of paste wasn’t sufficient.
 
120C :eek: I thought the thing throttled at 115C.

Swap it, or if you’re more ballsy tighten the screws or repaste it. Those temps are unacceptable. I believe there were some people that took the washers off and tightened the screws that held the heatsink on. Not sure, been a while. I think there was a mfg issue where the air cooler isn’t nearly tight enough.

When I waterblocked mine I had to use a (relatively) ton of paste to get the temps decent on mine. I added some extra around the edges of the die as well. The “normal” amount of paste wasn’t sufficient.

yeah oddly it never tries to throttle down.
In games it runs at constant max clock i set in wattman | I saw it jump to 1900MHz on occasions tho. *(Unless wattman is lying to me.)

I'll take a look at the screws, if tightening won't help i'll swap.
 
yeah oddly it never tries to throttle down.
In games it runs at constant max clock i set in wattman | I saw it jump to 1900MHz on occasions tho. *(Unless wattman is lying to me.)

I'll take a look at the screws, if tightening won't help i'll swap.

Something is certainly off. I should not be getting similar/better clocks as you with my modded card on air.
 
Something is certainly off. I should not be getting similar/better clocks as you with my modded card on air.
in a good way? or bad way.

maybe we can compare some graphics only test? (to see if wattman is lying to me.) // a same scene where its mostly on GPU.

To-do
- Tighten the screws, maybe add washers to add more pressure on die.
- Check, and update bios to v1.06
https://www.amd.com/en/support/radeonvii-vbios-eula
(and i have no idea which version i have at this moment.)
- Check if 1800MHz is stable below 950mV with +0 power limit (if so test run something see temps etc.)
- Check if 1900MHz is stable around 1000mV with +0 power limit
- Check if msi afterburner is forcing clocks to stay the same.
- Verify with GPU-z that clocks are stable

Decide | to keep and watercool it or
- Return the GPU to microcenter, and possibly try MSI radeon vii from local fry's (hoping for hynix memory since from what i've read it can be clocked further to 1200MHz than samsung)
(back from 290x times Samsung memory ran hotter, and thus had more problems to stay at 1600MHz while Hynix modules ran cooler and had less issues staying at 1600MHz)
 
in a good way? or bad way.

maybe we can compare some graphics only test? (to see if wattman is lying to me.) // a same scene where its mostly on GPU.

To-do
- Tighten the screws, maybe add washers to add more pressure on die.
- Check, and update bios to v1.06
https://www.amd.com/en/support/radeonvii-vbios-eula
(and i have no idea which version i have at this moment.)
- Check if 1800MHz is stable below 950mV with +0 power limit (if so test run something see temps etc.)
- Check if 1900MHz is stable around 1000mV with +0 power limit
- Check if msi afterburner is forcing clocks to stay the same.
- Verify with GPU-z that clocks are stable

Decide | to keep and watercool it or
- Return the GPU to microcenter, and possibly try MSI radeon vii from local fry's (hoping for hynix memory since from what i've read it can be clocked further to 1200MHz than samsung)
(back from 290x times Samsung memory ran hotter, and thus had more problems to stay at 1600MHz while Hynix modules ran cooler and had less issues staying at 1600MHz)

Bad way. I don't know what bios my card is running either. Run it at 100% stock profile on heaven for a couple loops and see what you get as far as clock and GPU/Tj temps.
 
Bad way. I don't know what bios my card is running either. Run it at 100% stock profile on heaven for a couple loops and see what you get as far as clock and GPU/Tj temps.
I'll let you know later in the evening today;
after i tighten the screws and update the bios.

Thanks
 
Bad way. I don't know what bios my card is running either. Run it at 100% stock profile on heaven for a couple loops and see what you get as far as clock and GPU/Tj temps.
- My bios is up-to-date
- haven't tried to tighten the screws yet


Here's the gpu-z logs (i have limit to 144FPS so some of the easy ran games will drop utilization)
Code:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1qw5fAwdyBGone-D3dX9RC9Htv-8gymA2pkN-g1RvT9c/edit?usp=sharing

i also tested some overclocking and i can go to 2070MHz @ 1150mV but tJ will go to 120'C during gameplay (about 10min) and shut itself off.

(Stable OC)
1935MHz @ 1100mV with tJ of 110'C ish

I've also noticed that my core temp is almost always 31'C less than tJ

so @ 64'C core i'm getting 95'C tJ
 
Last edited:
- My bios is up-to-date
- haven't tried to tighten the screws yet


Here's the gpu-z logs (i have limit to 144FPS so some of the easy ran games will drop utilization)
Code:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1qw5fAwdyBGone-D3dX9RC9Htv-8gymA2pkN-g1RvT9c/edit?usp=sharing

i also tested some overclocking and i can go to 2070MHz @ 1150mV but tJ will go to 120'C during gameplay (about 10min) and shut itself off.

(Stable OC)
1935MHz @ 1100mV with tJ of 110'C ish

I've also noticed that my core temp is almost always 31'C less than tJ

so @ 64'C core i'm getting 95'C tJ

The others with water cooling setups will have to chime in on that. For air that OC and temps looks pretty normal.
 
The others with water cooling setups will have to chime in on that. For air that OC and temps looks pretty normal.
ok, do you think this card is a keeper? As in its worth to put waterblock on it or return it and try another one?


also i has a sticker "void if removed" on retention kit screw... is that still legal? or they just put cause of other markets?
 
So I decided to mount the updated AIO (M02). There are a different set of issues with this one.

There are two M3x5 screws that attach the PCB to the cooler. If I put one of them in, this happens on the opposite side of the card.

View attachment 171168

Meaning that the standoffs aren't the right length and the car is no longer parallel to the cooler when either of them is mounted. If you mount both the card bends in the high spot between the two screws (the GPU itself).

If I don't use the M3x5 screws the PCB remains straight.

View attachment 171169

Problem is that the standoffs for mounting the back plate to the cooler also look to be slightly too short. For now I have not really tightened them down all that much.

Lolz


I'd like offer small custom Watercooling setup, I have Radeon VII Waterblock and its cpu/Pump all-in-1 and intel bracket and Amd am4 bracket

I have Small Custom Watercooling setup, I'd be willing let go for cheap, due to my Company taking all my time, I dont have time game anymore, My days are Getting new customers, calling new customers, setting up dates cut customers Homes or Houses, I just want pass on my savings on to someone else, my loss be your gain
 
I'd like offer small custom Watercooling setup, I have Radeon VII Waterblock and its cpu/Pump all-in-1 and intel bracket and Amd am4 bracket

I have Small Custom Watercooling setup, I'd be willing let go for cheap, due to my Company taking all my time, I dont have time game anymore, My days are Getting new customers, calling new customers, setting up dates cut customers Homes or Houses, I just want pass on my savings on to someone else, my loss be your gain

I appreciate the offer, Alphacool is sending me the parts for a custom loop setup for the cost of shipping. I am going to see how that works out.
 
The parts they sent instead of a 3rd AIO
20190705_145658.jpg

Bleeding the system
20190705_175117.jpg

Tubes trimmed and everything routed to the final locations
20190706_141144.jpg

Still some minor annoyances with the products, but nothing that I wasn't able to figure out pretty easily.
 
I'd like offer small custom Watercooling setup, I have Radeon VII Waterblock and its cpu/Pump all-in-1 and intel bracket and Amd am4 bracket

I have Small Custom Watercooling setup, I'd be willing let go for cheap, due to my Company taking all my time, I dont have time game anymore, My days are Getting new customers, calling new customers, setting up dates cut customers Homes or Houses, I just want pass on my savings on to someone else, my loss be your gain

What exactly do you have?
 
What exactly do you have?

We talking custom water loop? Everything also has all there retail boxs and accessories, i list im trying sell as Im about list all my parts i wanted get $430 for this whole package,asus rog hero vii (non wifi version),ryzen 5 2600, corsair veng rgb pro 2x8gb 16gb ddr4 3000 cl15, evo 970 500gb comes with win 10 pro, intel ssd 545s 512gb.

My custom loop is small, it kept up with ruzen 5 2600 and Radeon VII no sweat,

Small res, Ekwb PE 240mm rad, ek-duraclear full box 3meters or 9feet 10 inchs in tubing, Cpu/pump are all-in-one its named swiftech apogee drive ii has am4 brackets and intel brackets also have Radeon VII waterblock.

I own lawn care and landscaping business, all my time is invested in my business, I'd like find all these parts good home, im trying recover some cash back not tons, just enough buy 2nd backpack blower or other trimmer. Up at 6am go bed at 10-11, I like keep everything organized.

Ill sell custom loop include box of tubing, and if you want Radeon VII waterblock I'll take $65 upto amount for combo loop. It includes whole box of fittings as well.

Heres my pc before i got rid radeon VII

20190706_034635_zpsztms4hb7.jpg


Anyone want talk business, may we please do it in private messages, i dont want anyone get in trouble, i dont want get in trouble
 
Did the washer hack on my Radeon VII. Didn't seem to do much. The drivers will still crash when I try to use the AMD Graphical settings-> auto under volt button. Leaving things stock seems to be the only way I can get my card to run properly.
 
Did the washer hack on my Radeon VII. Didn't seem to do much. The drivers will still crash when I try to use the AMD Graphical settings-> auto under volt button. Leaving things stock seems to be the only way I can get my card to run properly.

2070 super looks pretty sweet vs the Radeon VII. Just saying.

I would question the long term stability of your card if it’s only stable at stock.
 
2070 super looks pretty sweet vs the Radeon VII. Just saying.

I would question the long term stability of your card if it’s only stable at stock.


If you are going to stay on air, I'd sell the VII for $550-600 and get a 5700XT AV Edition....I did just that (but haven't sold my GPU yet) since I am waiting on word of GPU blocks for the 5700xt..

EDIT: It appears that EK is selling the blocks with a ship date of July 26th. I am little PO'd they are not offering a plain copper vs the nickel plated option, as their plating really sucks donkey balls.
 
2070 super looks pretty sweet vs the Radeon VII. Just saying.

I would question the long term stability of your card if it’s only stable at stock.

He's crashing on auto-undervolt though. He could probably manually find a decent setting. I might try the washer mod and see if it does anything or if it's BS.
 
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