24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

[spacediver]

Hi I'm new here. Just joined because some months ago I bought a Dell P1130 that have the over-too-brightness issue. I bought this adapter (https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-To-RS2...-USB-to-COM-Cable-Adapter-Module/201539573206) first to fit it, but WinDAS throw the "can't connect the monitor, please check bus line and condition". So then later I bought this other one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-MAX32...Module-DB9-Connector-w-cable-N43/172668127854) but I happen the same. Now with the PL2030 I installed diferent driver versions, but always the same result. And for the MAX3232 one, I don't know if I did something wrong with the connection... So please, please help me with this situation. This is getting really frustrating, mostly with the fact that where I live is rally hard to get this adapters.

FYI, I requested some help on reddit and on The CRT Collective in facebook, but with no results.

In WinDAS there's an option to configure which COM port to use. You have to select whichever port the adaptor is connected to. WinDAS only supports COM ports 1 through 4, so you have to ensure that the cable is plugged into a USB port that corresponds to one of those four ports. You can check this by connecting the adaptor to a USB port, then going to device manager and looking to see which COM port shows up for that device. You might even be able to remap a USB port to a particular COM port, but not sure - can't remember right now.

Anyway, try what I suggested and let us know if that helps.

 

[Ashun]

crt_modern_user Check out this post I made on BlurBusters in 2014 about getting WinDAS to work for both an IBM P260 and a Dell P1130:

https://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=504

Try spacediver's suggestion about the COM port. If that works, great! But I'm worried that your adapter is a knock-off Prolific chip, which was causing all the trouble I had in that post. I switched over to an Adafruit adapter ( https://www.adafruit.com/product/954 ), and everything worked flawlessly. It looks like they've updated the adapter to a SiLabs CP2012 chip since 2016, so I don't know how well that'll behave with WinDAS.

 

[crt_modern_user]

In WinDAS there's an option to configure which COM port to use. You have to select whichever port the adaptor is connected to. WinDAS only supports COM ports 1 through 4, so you have to ensure that the cable is plugged into a USB port that corresponds to one of those four ports. You can check this by connecting the adaptor to a USB port, then going to device manager and looking to see which COM port shows up for that device. You might even be able to remap a USB port to a particular COM port, but not sure - can't remember right now.

Anyway, try what I suggested and let us know if that helps.

I already had changed the COM port on a old PC both with Windows 2000 SP4 and Windows XP SP3+ (I used to upgrade to that SP4 pack) and only that message appears, no matter wich port I try. I also tried out on a Windows 7 laptop and do the same procidure and the same thing happen, except that when going to conf and just clicking OK, then go to "Save data to file" it "appears to work", but WinDAS crashes. I start WinDAS again, go to save data to file and then nothing happened, just that message.

crt_modern_user Check out this post I made on BlurBusters in 2014 about getting WinDAS to work for both an IBM P260 and a Dell P1130:

https://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=504

Try spacediver's suggestion about the COM port. If that works, great! But I'm worried that your adapter is a knock-off Prolific chip, which was causing all the trouble I had in that post. I switched over to an Adafruit adapter ( https://www.adafruit.com/product/954 ), and everything worked flawlessly. It looks like they've updated the adapter to a SiLabs CP2012 chip since 2016, so I don't know how well that'll behave with WinDAS.

Hi Ashun, I had saw that post some time ago before join in to Hard Forum. Well I also suspect that the PL2030 is a knock off... Accordding to the adafruit site, they say that originally they were shipping adapters similar to the one I bought (https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-To-RS2...-USB-to-COM-Cable-Adapter-Module/201539573206), then they changed to this simillar one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-P...load-Cable-for-WIN10-AVR-MCU-ARM/202569618456), and finally to this other one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-C...Download-Cable-For-WIN10-AVR-MCU/312426059276). I guess you are suggesting me the blue one with the PL2030TA chip one, so I wil taking in count.

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So that's why I bought this other adapter (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-MAX32...Module-DB9-Connector-w-cable-N43/172668127854)(scroll down, the item is there) to see if I can do something, but the same thing happened. Again I don't know if is not being reconized on my PC so maybe I omited a step, or is not the propper adapter, I'm just sayng. Acorrding to The CRT Collective and Wikipedia, the best adapters are the ones that comes with a FTDI chip. The guy of the Trinitron Madness video (https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=xH4fKpKLkBM) used this adapter (https://www.ebay.com/itm/6Pin-USB-2...-CP2102-STC-Replace-Ft232-Module/401092508083), I guess. Which contains a CP chip and worked for him.

Before I bought the MAX3232 adapter I wanted to buy this 2 other ones: this adapter (https://www.ebay.com/itm/6PIN-FTDI-...Serial-Adapter-Cable-for-Arduino/401650523561) wich the seller claims that is original and have a FTDI chip and this other monster (https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-to-Ser...Converter-Module-FTDI-FT232BM-BL/401707225351), wich also have a FTDI chip and have some other plugs. But I don't have too money and because of my location, I have to pay extra taxes and shipping so I just want to buy the propper adapter.

Anayway, what do you think about those ones, and also what about the MAX3232 one that I bought? Is the propper one, or those dosen't work with WinDAS?

 

[spacediver]

I remember that blurbusters post Ashun - and wow it's been 5 years!

 

[aeliusg]

Hi I'm new here. Just joined because some months ago I bought a Dell P1130 that have the over-too-brightness issue. I bought this adapter (https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-To-RS2...-USB-to-COM-Cable-Adapter-Module/201539573206) first to fit it, but WinDAS throw the "can't connect the monitor, please check bus line and condition". So then later I bought this other one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-MAX32...Module-DB9-Connector-w-cable-N43/172668127854) but I happen the same. Now with the PL2030 I installed diferent driver versions, but always the same result. And for the MAX3232 one, I don't know if I did something wrong with the connection... So please, please help me with this situation. This is getting really frustrating, mostly with the fact that where I live is rally hard to get this adapters.

FYI, I requested some help on reddit and on The CRT Collective in facebook, but with no results.

The Ebay reviews say to use an older driver for the fake/outdated chip.

 

[crt_modern_user]

The Ebay reviews say to use an older driver for the fake/outdated chip.

I tried your suggestion, but nothing... I have tried diferent versions, one of 2007 (your suggestion, i guess: http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/...serial-fix-official-solution-to-code-10-error) other ones from 2009 (http://wp.brodzinski.net/wp-content...3_Drivers-Generic_Windows_PL2303_Prolific.zip) and of 2013(http://www.prolific.com.tw/UserFiles/files/PL2303_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v1_8_0.zip), finally one from 2018 directly from the Prolific webpage.

Againg the problem is the adapter, 'cause I also had tested several version of WinDAS and with the same result...

 

[Strat_84]

Did you connect the adapter properly in the first place ? The TXD pin on the monitor needs to be connected to the RXD one on the adapter and RXD on the monitor to TXD on the adapter.

Regarding the adapter I use this one:
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00AFRXKFU

Chip Silabs CP2102, that was the first one I tried and it worked with the drivers provided by the chip manufacturer. Mine are from 2015 for Windows 7.

 

[crt_modern_user]

Did you connect the adapter properly in the first place ? The TXD pin on the monitor needs to be connected to the RXD one on the adapter and RXD on the monitor to TXD on the adapter.

Regarding the adapter I use this one:
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00AFRXKFU

Chip Silabs CP2102, that was the first one I tried and it worked with the drivers provided by the chip manufacturer. Mine are from 2015 for Windows 7.

Sure, I also tried switching he cables several times and nothing... I bought that adapter after I saw this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v= 34AP-6I_ti8).

Also another thing that I want to report is the fact that recently, my P1130 is having some slow starts, so I just hope the problem is not that deep...

 

[aeliusg]

Probably should save your time and money and get one that is not from the original seller who sold you the junk adapter, unless they are willing to give you a replacement.

 

[crt_modern_user]

Probably should save your time and money and get one that is not from the original seller who sold you the junk adapter, unless they are willing to give you a replacement.

Well, I'm using his eBay store stock just for a reference only , but the seller said to me that if I buy an item from him again, give a reminder for a replacement. Also the MAX3232 that I bought were from another seller.

 

[cdoublejj]

with the sunix is posible to achieve things like 2560 x 1600@72hz (max 68hz non sunix, from internal DAC) or 2560 x 1440@80hz (max 75hz non sunix, internal DAC) for example.

those resolutions and refreshes were created via CRU or NVIDIA control panel, but going further than the FW900 hardware limit of 160hz was not posible from what i have tested with the sunix.

all those were tested via windows 10 pro version 1709 64bit, havent tested from the latest 1809.....i never thought about the chance of later big update screwing custom resolution ability... hope there will be not restrictions, will have to test later about that properly



as an additional note, browsing the CRT collective facebook group, seems someone already tested the Sunix with a RTX card (2070) and FW900 and works fine, not without some non critical issues others have experienced as well with other gen cards, View attachment 155090
i had that issue when tested from a GTX 760 Displayport Sunix, at 1920 x 1200@90hz as well, but was never a big deal issue, not even really distracting

It seems to reset shit after big updates. i'm also contemplating a move to a linux, i think it lets you just specify what the hell ever and tries to actually push the change with real check. i'll be happy to run over 80hz @ 2304 x 1440. has anyone tried higher than 80hz @ 2304 x 1440? Soundsl iek it could maybe manage a smidge more @ 2304 vs 2560. also why 2560? isn't the aspect ratio changed a bit @ 2560?

 

[CommandoSnake]

To anyone who cares. I ended up selling my Samsung. Ultimately, the inability to adjust brightness while in ULMB mode was the deal-breaker for me. So I'm back to using my Artisan. Not as sharp as my old F520 but whatever. It's still more than adequate for the task at hand.

What Samsung model was it? The PG279Q handles ULMB mode well, though it isn't as bright as it is with ULMB off.

 

[3dfan]

It seems to reset shit after big updates. i'm also contemplating a move to a linux, i think it lets you just specify what the hell ever and tries to actually push the change with real check. i'll be happy to run over 80hz @ 2304 x 1440. has anyone tried higher than 80hz @ 2304 x 1440? Soundsl iek it could maybe manage a smidge more @ 2304 vs 2560. also why 2560? isn't the aspect ratio changed a bit @ 2560?

dont think its posible to get higher than 80hz @ 2304 x 1440 (progresive of course), 120.6 KHZ is reported on my FW900 at that res and the the limit of the horizontal frequency is around 121 KHZ max from what i know, and going to 81HZ goes out of range with a horizontal frecuency of 122.2 KHZ, even when the pixel clock is 388 MHZ, below the max 400 MHZ limit of a integrated DAC, so not even a sunix adapter around 500 pixel clock would seem to help in that case.

as for why 2560, 2560x1440, in my case, since it is a 16:9 aspect ratio res, i would prefer to use it and other 16:9 resolutions for some modern games that no longer support 16:10 aspect ratio properly and would create a large letter box when using that, against a 16:9 res which for those games creates a less notable letterbox on the FW900.

also i like to play some of those 16:9 only games stretched and the stretching wont be as much notable to my likes that would be using a 16:10 aspect ratio resolutions on those.

 

[Flybye]

So what options do we have now that the DPU3000-D3 is no longer available?

I have enjoyed my FW900 at 2304x1440 @ 80hz for a very long time, but I will not be able to keep buying a 980Ti for ever!

Has anyone even considered going to an LCD that comes close to the FW900?

 

[crt_modern_user]

Little question: I should plug the +5V cable of the usb to ttl adapter on the back to the monitor? I mean, this guy (https://youtu.be/ xH4fKpKLkBM?t=582) didn't connected to his monitor and it seems to works fine.

 

[aeliusg]

Little question: I should plug the +5V cable of the usb to ttl adapter on the back to the monitor? I mean, this guy (https://youtu.be/ xH4fKpKLkBM?t=582) didn't connected to his monitor and it seems to works fine.

The 5V was meant to power the TTL, since your adapter chip should already get USB power you don't have to plug it in usually.

 

[crt_modern_user]

The 5V was meant to power the TTL, since your adapter chip should already get USB power you don't have to plug it in usually.

So maybe that is the reason that my adapter dosen't work? I will try it out.

Also another question: when I plug the +5V cable on the monitor it seems that gives some power to the monitor, 'cause the standby turns to green, what about that?

EDIT: nope, that +5V cable wasn't the problem, so definely that adapter will not work anyway. What about this other adapter that I found on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/MonkeyJack-MAX3232-Serial-Converter-Connector/dp/B06Y2CXMQT), one review says that it worked with WinDAS...

 

[aeliusg]

So maybe that is the reason that my adapter dosen't work? I will try it out.

Also another question: when I plug the +5V cable on the monitor it seems that gives some power to the monitor, 'cause the standby turns to green, what about that?

EDIT: nope, that +5V cable wasn't the problem, so definely that adapter will not work anyway. What about this other adapter that I found on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/MonkeyJack-MAX3232-Serial-Converter-Connector/dp/B06Y2CXMQT), one review says that it worked with WinDAS...

I've never used RS232 with WinDAS, but the product looks well enough put together that it should meet the bare minimum of functionality... Most of the info I know was from here: http://www.massmind.org/images/com/geocities/www/gregua/windas/cable.htm and whatever else was in the guides put together by users here.

 

[crt_modern_user]

I've never used RS232 with WinDAS, but the product looks well enough put together that it should meet the bare minimum of functionality... Most of the info I know was from here: http://www.massmind.org/images/com/geocities/www/gregua/windas/cable.htm and whatever else was in the guides put together by users here.

So the next adapter that I will buy will be a USB based one. Also it could be a good idea to buy it from the original seller? Because he said me to remind him for a resent.

 

[ellover009]

So what options do we have now that the DPU3000-D3 is no longer available?

I have enjoyed my FW900 at 2304x1440 @ 80hz for a very long time, but I will not be able to keep buying a 980Ti for ever!

Has anyone even considered going to an LCD that comes close to the FW900?

I sorta did. You wont quite find anything like it 100%. Oled are still a bit expensive, they still aren't burn proof.
Tried a few things and found something I like. First replacement was one of those Korean overclock monitors, mine would max 95Hz. I ran mine 80-85ish, had to run some program to compensate for the color shift/dimming from running o/c. It was fine until I saw tearing. drove me nuts at first, then I got used to it. It was around 24-25 inch. It lasted around 2yrs, I was ready to try something more name brand this time. Got a viewsonic XG2703-GS with viewsync. No more tearing with gsync, no more blanking out when you switch refresh rates, it felt more like my old crt, and this thing will hit 165Hz.
Observations so far are that, the FW900 days are limited due to the aging of the components and the weight, cost and complexity to keep them running in modern times. As much as I loved mine the benefits of LCD's is that it occupies less space behind the screen, I can go bigger and more of it is actually screen, less uniformity issues "a circle will be a perfect circle", less power consumption and radiation output, I can flip it vertically if I wanted and it's no longer messing up my desk with it's weight.

 

[cdoublejj]

CRTs aren't burn proof either, RTINGs did a burn in test with a ton of OLEDs and 1 IPS panel. the IPS burned in just as bad as the OLEDs I just bought a 55" LG B8 and it was a hair over 1K (USD) shipped. Several OLED factories are being spun up right now, they be using the new OLED printer-jet mfg process. so prices will be coming down hopefully. BTW funny thing with power saver off i can see the power drop on my watt meter with darker scenes.

I've noticed CRT collection on Reddit is slowly rising. Seems to be inline with retro gaming. I've noticed there a few on youtube restoring old old old CRTs, i imagine the true hard core will have the expertise on how to re cap boards or in worse case scenario refurbish the tubes like Hawk-Eye Picture Tube MFG did in recent past years.

 

[Strat_84]

Indeed, CRTs aren't burn proof. I retrieved an IBM P275 some time ago with a burnt tube, I couldn't believe my eyes. The screen didn't have a very high hour count but I would bet it came from an office and the idiots made it display some sort of DOS program during its entire life, with a fixed window and full contrast. Now the program interface is printed in the phosphors. It's a pity but nothing could be done except saving the boards for spare parts.

 

[XoR_]

CRTs aren't burn proof either, RTINGs did a burn in test with a ton of OLEDs and 1 IPS panel. the IPS burned in just as bad as the OLEDs

IPS panels do have image retention issues. Some less, some more but all seems to have it. This is however hardly an issue because it seems to always go away after displaying some content that forces pixels to change a lot like movies or something. Crystals need to be shaken a little to realign themselves properly - because LCD panel have actually moving parts are are thus not purely solid state like for example CRT... I always find this absolutely crazy XD

In case of OLED we are worried about permanent image burn-in.
In plasma panels there were both not-permanent image retention issues and permanent phosphor burn-in to deal with.
Not sure if OLED have only permanent burn-in or does it also have impermanent one also?

 

[cdoublejj]

i think OLED has both because my TV has a thing it can run when you turn it off to help mitigate burn in. i've also heard there some stuck pixel type videos one can run to help reduce retention that sometimes helps. i remember i had a iMac freeze once over night and didn't catch it till the next day, it took a looooong time of "Stuck pixel" videos on YouTube before it got better. (IPS)

 

[cdoublejj]

with the sunix is posible to achieve things like 2560 x 1600@72hz (max 68hz non sunix, from internal DAC) or 2560 x 1440@80hz (max 75hz non sunix, internal DAC) for example.

those resolutions and refreshes were created via CRU or NVIDIA control panel, but going further than the FW900 hardware limit of 160hz was not posible from what i have tested with the sunix.

all those were tested via windows 10 pro version 1709 64bit, havent tested from the latest 1809.....i never thought about the chance of later big update screwing custom resolution ability... hope there will be not restrictions, will have to test later about that properly



as an additional note, browsing the CRT collective facebook group, seems someone already tested the Sunix with a RTX card (2070) and FW900 and works fine, not without some non critical issues others have experienced as well with other gen cards, View attachment 155090
i had that issue when tested from a GTX 760 Displayport Sunix, at 1920 x 1200@90hz as well, but was never a big deal issue, not even really distracting

is it normal to get left / right jitter @ 2304 x 1440?

EDIT: it seems when i force it with 70, 75 and 80z the picture jiggles and shakes by a few "pixels" it's constant and noticeable

 

[3dfan]

it seems to be "normal" to get any type of issues with the sunix and the FW900. looks like every sunix - FW900 user have had some type of issues unfortunately.
since the sunix seems not being made with high refresh - resolutions analog monitor in mind its unknow if those issues would be ever fixed sadly.
from my limited testing with the sunix for a week, 2560x1600@72hz was the only res- refresh convination that never developed any sign of issues, but that was only a 2 hour test, not long enough for a true verdict.

 

[Enhanced Interrogator]

1920x1440@75hz, the resolution I play Apex Lends at, will get the "jitter" sometimes. But I just alt+tab then switch resolution real quick (I have a program that does this from the taskbar) and then switch back. Takes about 5 seconds. Sometimes the jitter comes back in 10 minutes, sometimes it doesn't come back. Seems to eventually happen if I play for long enough though, like more than a couple hours.

Other resolutions, though, it never happens. Like I play Battlefield 5 at 1792x1344@80hz, and I've never seen it there. Likewise for the 2880x1800@60hz I use for Mega Man 11.

 

[SwedishMeatball]

So I managed to get my hands on an FW900 the last month. It suffered from the brightness problem so I have done the "color restoration" which made it much better. However, it stills takes the monitor about half an hour before it settles regarding to brightness/contrast. So when I power it on I have to lower brightness to 0 in order for black levels to be where they should, otherwise the picture is washed out. Once it settles I crank brightness up to around 24 (or I do it gradually over time). I have gotten the necessary equipment for full calibration according the Windas guide here on the forum, but I am questioning if changing the G2 value will help with this? I read a few pages back and this seems to be a different issue? I am thinking that fixing G2 will just move the sliders up, so that I will have to start with a value of 10-15 and end up with something in the 30-40 range?

What's your advice?

I am thinking of doing the Windas anyway, as I have problems with too much red in the "near-black" range IRE. Also, when the screen starts from cold, the elevated blacks are reddish which confirms this I believe.

Is it safe to run Windas on WIndows 10? Should I run it in a compatiblity mode with Win 7?

 

[spacediver]

the 30 min warmup is normal. My best guess is that it is the tube's attempt to compensate for the time it takes for the cathode to heat up.

 

[cdoublejj]

it seems to be "normal" to get any type of issues with the sunix and the FW900. looks like every sunix - FW900 user have had some type of issues unfortunately.
since the sunix seems not being made with high refresh - resolutions analog monitor in mind its unknow if those issues would be ever fixed sadly.
from my limited testing with the sunix for a week, 2560x1600@72hz was the only res- refresh convination that never developed any sign of issues, but that was only a 2 hour test, not long enough for a true verdict.

I'm straight in to my laptop actually, the cord my dw came with seems thinner than most VGA cables so that made me wonder if that could have something to due with it, maybe it's not shielded or something.

 

[Ashun]

SwedishMeatball WinDAS works fine on Win 10. Just make sure to register msflxgrd.ocx. It's been a while, but I think I had to use the SysWOW64 directory instead of System32.

 

[Flybye]

I sorta did. You wont quite find anything like it 100%. Oled are still a bit expensive, they still aren't burn proof.
Tried a few things and found something I like. First replacement was one of those Korean overclock monitors, mine would max 95Hz. I ran mine 80-85ish, had to run some program to compensate for the color shift/dimming from running o/c. It was fine until I saw tearing. drove me nuts at first, then I got used to it. It was around 24-25 inch. It lasted around 2yrs, I was ready to try something more name brand this time. Got a viewsonic XG2703-GS with viewsync. No more tearing with gsync, no more blanking out when you switch refresh rates, it felt more like my old crt, and this thing will hit 165Hz.
Observations so far are that, the FW900 days are limited due to the aging of the components and the weight, cost and complexity to keep them running in modern times. As much as I loved mine the benefits of LCD's is that it occupies less space behind the screen, I can go bigger and more of it is actually screen, less uniformity issues "a circle will be a perfect circle", less power consumption and radiation output, I can flip it vertically if I wanted and it's no longer messing up my desk with it's weight.

It is not just the parts/repair cost of the FW900 or the physical advantages of a new panel. Some games are recommending 8+GB of vram. The 980ti only have 6GB and the only other option is a Titan X with 12GB. The point will come where games will be recommending over 12GB of vram and then what? I keep reading OLEDs will make us happy in the future, though.

 

[Enhanced Interrogator]

Some games are recommending 8+GB of vram. The 980ti only have 6GB and the only other option is a Titan X with 12GB. The point will come where games will be recommending over 12GB of vram and then what? .

My GTX 1080 + Sunix DPU3000 combo is working out great. Approximately 550mHz pixel clock, higher than Nvidia will let you go on the analog output on a 980Ti

 

[Strat_84]

Yes, graphic card speed limitation isn't a relevant point since there is a couple of quality adapters that allow to keep using the FW900 (or any VGA screen) with digital only outputs.

 

[spacediver]

Has anyone tested the ADV7123 chipset? (10 bit and looks like it does at least 330 MHz)

Or know of any 10+ bit adaptors capable of ~330 MHz?

 

[Flybye]

Yes, graphic card speed limitation isn't a relevant point since there is a couple of quality adapters that allow to keep using the FW900 (or any VGA screen) with digital only outputs.

But I still have not discovered one that outputs at 80hz. Do you know of one? The Sunix DPU3000 shows only 60hz, and I would like to be able to do 2304x1440 @ 80Hz.

 

[3dfan]

Flybye, thats very strange, i have a sunix dpu3000 and can do 2304x1440 @ 80Hz and even can get the maximum 160hz and all the refreshes FW900 support.
you seem the first one of all sunix dpu3000 users here reporting that 60hz max limit from what i remember...... sure something is not correctly setup on your graphics card - sunix - fw900 combo or your sunix maybe defective? or..maybe sunix downgraded the chip frequency in your model? (hopefully not)

i strongly suggest you and other users recently asking about digital to analog video converters to make a search on this thread about words like sunix, delock, dac, plugable, displayport to vga hdmi to vga... its not a long 400+ page search, just look for the more recent results, the digital to analog discution is relatively new since the last graphics card vga compatible was produced some few years ago.

also as a quick help, did you tried software like CRU (custom resolution utility) or via your graphics card control panel to create the custom resolution?

 

[cdoublejj]

whats weird is i used to be able to 2304x1440 @ 70Hz with out all the wiggling,jiggly shaking picture. i wonder if my it's monitor it's self. it was supposed to be low hours


EDIT: you know what all the specs in the CRU and Nvidia utlitiy might not be quite right unless the horizontal and vertical frequencies don't matter so much?

 

[Derupter]

Has anyone tested the ADV7123 chipset? (10 bit and looks like it does at least 330 MHz)

Or know of any 10+ bit adaptors capable of ~330 MHz?

That is only a DAC, it needs a digital receiver and everything else and i don't know custom adapters with that chip.

Adapters with 10 bit DAC:
Not 100% sure but these seem to be the correct specs:
HDFURY Nano GX 10 bit DAC but digital input is 8 bit
HDFURY2 11 bit DAC but digital input is 8 bit
HDFURY3 11 bit DAC and digital input up to 10 bit
HDFURY4 11 bit DAC and digital input up to 12 bit

Chipset with 10 bit DAC:
ITE IT6562 digital input is 360 MHz 24 bit (288 MHz with 30 bit), DAC is 10 bit tested up to 200 MHz (by the manufacturer)
Adapters with this chip are Delock 63924-63925

The new Lontium LT8612UX is out:
input is HDMI 2.0 (600 MHz 24 bit and 480 MHz 30 bit)
DAC seems to be 10 bit but sadly it has only been tested up to 200 MHz
The funny thing is that the chip from which it derives(LT8612SX) has been tested up to 300 MHz
No adapter with this chip for now because it has just come out

ITE has a new chip IT6564 with 720 MHz input,DAC seems to be 8 bit tested as always up to 200 MHz,this is a good competitor to the Synaptics chipset

Now the question is,with an adapter capable of 10 bit analog output do you need to set the digital output to 10 bit in order to use your custom LUT?

 

[spacediver]

Now the question is,with an adapter capable of 10 bit analog output do you need to set the digital output to 10 bit in order to use your custom LUT?

Really appreciate your great answer here Derupter.

And before we get to this question, are you saying there are three independent bit depths going on here?

1) bit depth of DAC
2) bit depth of digital input
3) bit depth of digital output

Either way, my hunch is that digital output being set to 8 bits would still allow 10 bit LUT. But this is based on my speculative understanding of how things work.

If anyone has any adapters they want tested for LUT bit depth, feel free to PM me. Alternatively, if anyone has a colorimeter and a DAC they want to test for bit depth, I can provide instructions on how to do so.