What is the go-to coolant now?

Ihaveworms

Ihaveworms

Ukfay Ancerkay
Joined
Jul 25, 2006
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You may have seen my thread in genmay with my radiator leaking and it looked like corrosion. I have been using distilled water with PTNuke for the past 5 years, but I have been reading that the PTNuke might be causing some of the corrosion. So... what is the common liquid coolant to use nowadays? Reliability and no corrosion is all I really care about. Looks do not matter. Preferably not overly toxic and a pain to dispose of either.
 
I've never been let down by Koolance fluid. Had it run in loops for about 3-4 years between flushes (with disassembly for cleaning, and usually around major system upgrades) and the blocks were all still very clean with mostly only a little buildup on o-rings. Koolance fluid comes in a variety of colors, including clear, and is safe in either aluminum or copper systems. Costs about $15 per 750ml bottle and can be gotten from Koolance if you are closer to the West coast or from Performance PCs if closer to the East. 2 bottles should cover all but the largest loops with plenty left over.

It should be noted that the post above about Primochill Vue is likely a /s comment, as that stuff is notorious for turning into butter in your system under anything but pristine conditions. Not to mention you aren't supposed to use your machine for more than 8 hours a day with the stuff. It IS super pretty, though.
 
mvmiller12 said:
I've never been let down by Koolance fluid. Had it run in loops for about 3-4 years between flushes (with disassembly for cleaning, and usually around major system upgrades) and the blocks were all still very clean with mostly only a little buildup on o-rings. Koolance fluid comes in a variety of colors, including clear, and is safe in either aluminum or copper systems. Costs about $15 per 750ml bottle and can be gotten from Koolance if you are closer to the West coast or from Performance PCs if closer to the East. 2 bottles should cover all but the largest loops with plenty left over.

It should be noted that the post above about Primochill Vue is likely a /s comment, as that stuff is notorious for turning into butter in your system under anything but pristine conditions. Not to mention you aren't supposed to use your machine for more than 8 hours a day with the stuff. It IS super pretty, though.
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I mean I've never actually used the stuff myself, I just haven't heard much bad about it.

I've always used EK Pastel or just straight distilled water and never had any build up or corrosion issues. Have been meaning to try out the new Cryofuel stuff, just need to build up the motivation to drain out my loop.
 
Mayhems is good if you pick certain colors, I believe blue and green are rock solid as far as not leaving any residue inside the block channels, otoh red and orange have shown to clog up over time, not sure what causes one color to age worse than another

jayztwocents talks about this in one of his recent videos
 
Mayhems Pastel Red here, will give an update in a few months to see how well it does.
 
ive been running petras pt_nuke-phn biocide(straight off the label) & distilled for longer than i can remember with no ill effects to speak of. i flush n fill once a year and blocks and rads look pristine. anyhoo if your having corrosion issues you definitely want to go with something glycol based. like the aio manufacturers use. swiftech sells small bottles of zerex racing fluid they call hydrx.
http://www.coolerguys.com/products/...MIjJbF3LjB3wIVQkSGCh0hRgpxEAQYBCABEgLmK_D_BwE
i used it with a mixed metal loop a long time ago without issues. it may be a lot cheaper just to get some from an automotive store. my best advice is to use the zerex and dont add anything but distilled to it. i had some issues with water wetter and hydrx creating white floaties in my fluid.
i remember your thread (link is dead), the rad was rotted out at the bottom? i forget what you found to be the issue tho?
 
I've just been using pure distilled water, and a silver plug in my Monsoon res. So far no buildup or clouding. I have drained it once just to clean it after about 6 months, and to make a couple of small changes. But, so far, so good.
 
JeffBlair said:
I've just been using pure distilled water, and a silver plug in my Monsoon res. So far no buildup or clouding. I have drained it once just to clean it after about 6 months, and to make a couple of small changes. But, so far, so good.
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You need an anticorrosive.
 
VanGoghComplex said:
You need an anticorrosive.
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If you're using an aluminum radiator, sure.

I've been using distilled water with a tiny bit of copper sulfate in my loops for about 10 years now. Cheap and effective. I think the OP just got unlucky with that XSPC radiator that died.
 
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DeathFromBelow said:
If you're using an aluminum radiator, sure.

I've been using distilled water with a tiny bit of copper sulfate in my loops for about 10 years now. Cheap and effective.
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You need an anticorrosive. Mixing very dissimilar metals will make corrosion happen a lot faster, but even if you're using all copper, brass, and stainless, corrosion will still happen over time.
 
verylostindeed said:
The answer is always distilled + kill coil.
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I generally avoid silver if I have nickle in the loop, I know most don't have issues but that's not my experience.

I go straight distilled with PTN Nuke. Went three years without a fluid change, blocks still looked brand new, but I also go use nothing but copper/brass in my loops now.
 
Still a fan of distilled water and some automotive coolant. Only time I have swapped it out was for component/loop changes, which tend to be years apart.
 
Ive always used about 10-15% of the green stuff. that's basically whats in AIOs
 
AthlonXP said:
So right now I am just using some distilled water and mixed in 8 drops of this stuff:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/peptpcobi1.html

Just wondering how that will do against a bottle of EK-CryoFuel Clear that I have as well.
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That's what I use, one loop coming up on 4 years and still clear. I used a little more than 8 drops, more like a small squirt. Another loop coming up on 2 years, still clear.

Doesn't work with coolants or dyes or colored stuff, but I don't see my loops once the cover is on the case.
 
Dullard said:
That's what I use, one loop coming up on 4 years and still clear. I used a little more than 8 drops, more like a small squirt. Another loop coming up on 2 years, still clear.

Doesn't work with coolants or dyes or colored stuff, but I don't see my loops once the cover is on the case.
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Ok Great, so I can just drop in some more into the reservoir then?
 
8 drops might be enough, I just shot some in there and knew it was probably a bit more than 8 drops.
 
I'm making my own.
distilled water and propylene glycol 50-50.

Props to Zarathustra[H] for this ,
Propylene glycol is antimicrobial in its own right, Ya learn something new everyday.

(y)
 
you dont need quite 50/50 75/25 AF is prob fine. and yeah its an antimicrobial, anticorrosive and I believe a water "wetter" in one.
 
I've decided to go safe with the 50-50 mix, based on fast cooling. I'm not sure it's enough, we will see.I am running an active cooler.

I will know more right away.

:ROFLMAO:
 
So. What's the recommendation for replacement in an AIO that is subject to corrosion? Like an Enermax, for example?
 
Joust said:
So. What's the recommendation for replacement in an AIO that is subject to corrosion? Like an Enermax, for example?
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AIO's use a glycol mix. RV antifreeze is usually polypropylene glycol, but Ethylene glycol ( regular Automotive antifreeze/ coolant ) has anti corrosive properties
 
matt167 said:
AIO's use a glycol mix. RV antifreeze is usually polypropylene glycol, but Ethylene glycol ( regular Automotive antifreeze/ coolant ) has anti corrosive properties
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What are you saying? Use automotive coolant?
 
yes and distilled water. 10-50% af, your call. aios are about 20-25% from factory, I think.
 
matt167 said:
Yup. Less than $8 for a gallon of 50/50 available at your favorite Walmart
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pendragon1 said:
not if you use 50/50. I just use regular and distilled water and mix it myself.
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Does it have the same viscosity as the AIO fluid? My concern is that if it doesn't move enough it'll either cause the pump to fail or temps to increase.

I wouldn't be doing this except that I think I have had some evaporation. The pump/block is above the radiator and it makes a noise for a few seconds upon startup. So, that indicates to me that there is some air in the system.
 
Joust said:
Does it have the same viscosity as the AIO fluid? My concern is that if it doesn't move enough it'll either cause the pump to fail or temps to increase.

I wouldn't be doing this except that I think I have had some evaporation. The pump/block is above the radiator and it makes a noise for a few seconds upon startup. So, that indicates to me that there is some air in the system.
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no its fine. yeah most aios have a bit of air in them. that is why they should be mounted higher than the pump and with the hoses at the bottom or at the top of the case. that way that air stays in the rad not the pump and to stop the gurgles.
 
pendragon1 said:
no its fine. yeah most aios have a bit of air in them. that is why they should be mounted higher than the pump and with the hoses at the bottom or at the top of the case. that way that air stays in the rad not the pump and to stop the gurgles.
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It could not be done. Enermax 360 will only fit in the front of my 570x box, in the current orientation. I can probably make a small reservoir to put in-line to keep the issue at bay - if I am very careful.
 
Joust said:
It could not be done. Enermax 360 will only fit in the front of my 570x box, in the current orientation. I can probably make a small reservoir to put in-line to keep the issue at bay - if I am very careful.
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yeah i know,csorsair knows but case oems dont seem too...
no better time than if/when you refill it. even a fill tube/port to the top of the case.
 
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pendragon1 said:
yeahi know,sorsair knows but case oems dont seem too...
no better time than if/when you refill it. even a fill tube/port to the top of the case.
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matt167 said:
Just get one of those small acrylic reservoirs and plumb it above the pump inlet.
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Yep. I think I'll do this in the next few days. If you guys don't see me anymore - you'll know the SHTF.
 
i cant remeber what the mix was that we used to use but im thinking it was more along the 90/10 or 80/20 due to the auto coolant being to thick at 50/50. 50/50 was said to cause pumps to overheat but its been a long time since ive used auto coolants. just a word of caution if you go with 50/50 check that your pump isnt getting hot.
 
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